Supergluing your fingers together

[AZ Nomad]

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:46:37 -0400, Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

I suppose if you didn't want something permenant, it might work well.

 

[who where]

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:02:00 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Back to gluing cuts. I was sharpening a large hunting knife and managed
to cut the side of my right thumb to the bone. Cut was about 2.5cm and I
could see bone and other structures underneath. Didn't look like I cut
anything else and my thumb still worked ok so rather than getting it
stitched I used a grade of cyano we use for guitar work. Got the bleeding
stopped, wasn't much to begin with. Applied the glue and the cut was
closed immediately. I put cloth tape around the joint so the thumb
wouldn't flex as that was where the cut occurred. A week later the cut
had healed well enough to remove the tape. Now I have a scar but it is a
straight line. Be happy to upload a pic of it.

Is that a clue to your usenet nick?

 

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 14:17:55 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

In article <pan.2010.09.02.18.52.00@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>, Meat
Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

Medical skin glue is based on a slightly different cyanoacrylate
(butyl rather than methyl, IIRC) and is easier on the skin cells. It's
not widely available, though, except as a medical or vetrinary
adhesive in expensive single-use ampoules).

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after.

I've used it in that way, as well, with no apparent adverse reactions. I
suppose different people may have different levels of sensitivity to the
stuff.

Absolutely. My mom is very allergic to aspirin. I'm not. I think as you
said the same holds true for these type of chemicals. However in larger
amounts other than a tiny droplet or two I spread along the 2.5cm cut all
bets may be off. If you are a surgeon and are using it internally you
would want the least possibilities of toxicity. If I were out in the
field and gashed my hand wide open many miles from help I'd opt-in the
CA



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:52:31 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Hmm I'll have to remember that. Didn't seem to prove very toxic to my
cut. Skin had mended around 10 days after. I probably wouldn't use it
if I cut my finger off though

When dried, it's non-toxic. In liquid form, the volatiles are a
problem if they get to the mucus membranes. Repeated use can also
cause one to develop an allergy, with flu-like symptoms:
<http://wapedia.mobi/en/Cyanoacrylates>
<http://wapedia.mobi/en/Cyanoacrylate#3.>
I've glued a few cuts together without much difficulty. It stung a
bit when applied, but that went away rapidly.

Hmmm.... looks like the common adhesive (methyl 2-cyanoacrylate or
ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate), is different from the veterinary glue (n-Butyl
cyanoacrylate), which is different from the surgical glue (2-octyl
cyanoacrylate).

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad
<aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I have to agree on the brittleness problem. It's so handy, that I
tend use it on items where urethane, RTV, or epoxy would be more
appropriate.

Where I've used SuperGlue successfully are:
1. Custom rubber o-rings
2. Glass and ceramic repairs. I think my coffee cup has had the
handle superglued in 3 different places.
3. Hard plastic parts where the break is clean and has not been
stretched or bent. If the plastic is soft and/or bends, CA will not
work.
4. Tacking large parallel surfaces together.
5. Tacking SMD components to a PCB before soldering. A toothpick
works well as an applicator.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Sjouke Burry]

Meat Plow wrote:

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool
balls of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with
a rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time?
Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment. If
you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate glues
(usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought to find
a supply of debonder in the same rack.

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well except
on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to see
anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Any application that does not apply a sheer force. I use it to glue new
guitar frets into a slotted fretboard. It's a CA designed for that
application though. Also good for guitar nuts. Can't imagine something so
popular that didn't work.



I collect stones. When something breaks, superglue works very well.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:37:13 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first
but no effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I
was concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool
balls of acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with
a rotating wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector
worked, but anyone elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment. If
you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate glues
(usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought to find
a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well except
on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to see
anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Any application that does not apply a sheer force. I use it to glue new
guitar frets into a slotted fretboard. It's a CA designed for that
application though. Also good for guitar nuts. Can't imagine something so
popular that didn't work.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <sih086pn68ccahqo9iddtrn5l7ee7d62gj@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

I have to agree on the brittleness problem. It's so handy, that I
tend use it on items where urethane, RTV, or epoxy would be more
appropriate.

Thee are some newer formulations on the market which are intended
to be less brittle, and thus able to handle more impact that the
standard formulas. The one I bought (Gorilla brand) says that it's
reinforced with rubber particles. I infer that the rubber both
reduces stress within the adhesive during compression or tension (thus
reducing the tendency for cracks to start) and also helps prevent
cracks from propagating through the material once they do start.

http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/technical/technicalnews/pdf/tech46.pdf
has some details.

I've made my first experimental use of the Gorilla rubber-
reinforced variety, gluing a set of hardwood scales to a pocketknife
handle. I'll be quite interested to see how the knife holds up with
time. I know I'm taking a risk, not fastening the scales to the
handle with small screws... but the scales are hand-finished olive
burl and I just couldn't bear to drill holes in it.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Any application that does not apply a sheer force.

When I worked at a hi-fi store, we used to super-glue tone-arm bases onto
the metal surface of the Lux turntable arm mount (rather than cutting screw
holes into the surface). This allowed the mount to be reused for a different
arm, simply by holding a block of wood against the tone-arm base and
striking it with a hammer.

 

[John Keiser]

I use it to splice "O" rings into custom sizes. If done properly [clean
single edge razor blade, square cut] holds up well as a VCR drive belt,
even in a swimming pool vacuum line leaf trap. Using a telfon "v" block
would help alignment but I've managed without.
..


"AZ Nomad" <aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote in message
news:slrni80d99.pl9.aznomad.3@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net...

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:43:03 -1000, "John Keiser"
<john.keiser2@hawaiiantel.net> wrote:

I use it to splice "O" rings into custom sizes. If done properly [clean
single edge razor blade, square cut] holds up well as a VCR drive belt,
even in a swimming pool vacuum line leaf trap. Using a telfon "v" block
would help alignment but I've managed without.

The square cut (butt splice) doesn't work well. The problem is that
the hardened super glue goes across the diameter of the rubber o-ring.
If this diameter is compressed in any way, the superglue cracks, and
the o-ring falls apart. This is especially important for internal
o-ring seals, which use o-ring compression to maintain pressure. I've
done bench tests on various methods and found butt splices lacking. It
will work with a flexible adhesive, such as RTV, but not rock hard CA
glues.

Instead, try a 45 degree bevel cut. If you have an old 1/4" magnetic
tape splicer, there's usually a form and guillotine blade suitable for
the purpose. I do it without any alignment aids, which is good
enough. My favorite cutting device is a safety razor or surgeons
scalpel.

When glued at a 45 degree angle, you get a larger surface contact area
for the glue. The joint is also less in tension and more in shear,
which does make it slightly weaker. I haven't noticed any measureable
difference when I did some stretch tests. The 45 degree splice also
allows the o-ring to be compressed in almost all orientations, without
cracking the CA glue joint.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[isw]

In article <slrni80d99.pl9.aznomad.3@ip70-176-155-130.ph.ph.cox.net>,
AZ Nomad <aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I dropped my "Arkansas white" stone while putting the finishing touches
on a kitchen knife. The break was right across the middle of the 7" long
stone. I put a bit of superglue on the broken surface and pressed the
parts back together. The pieces went together so well that you can't
see, much less feel, the break. And the stone is still going strong
after more than fifteen years.

Isaac

 

[whit3rd]

On Sep 2, 4:37 pm, AZ Nomad <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin?  I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

Sure. It worked fine for me gluing carbide to tool steel. Far from
brittle, it was the most compliant of the three materials.
It held a ton or so of force in another application, gluing
stainless tapers together (for an ultrasonic drill tip).

 

[N_Cook]

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in message
news:4C80375D.4020906@electrooptical.net...

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but
no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

How do you use "just a little" with the viscosity almost of liquid helium
and coming in aluminium tubes of a gauge almost the same as tin cans it
seems impossible to squeeze out a small drop, only. I must adopt the storage
in small airtight bottle with (non cotton) sachet of activated silica gel
inside. Hopefully then it will be more amenable to squeezing out just enough
to wet a needle point to transfer to the intended.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:28:29 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

I must adopt the storage
in small airtight bottle with (non cotton) sachet of activated silica gel
inside. Hopefully then it will be more amenable to squeezing out just enough
to wet a needle point to transfer to the intended.

There's a trick. I use bottles with a stainless tube for dispensing
cyanoacrylate adhesive. Something like this.
<http://www.technologylk.com/weld-on-applicator-bottle-with-needle-lk-AAB4.htm>
<http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mmr/mmrmkdbp.htm>

As soon as you use it, the stainless tip will clog. No problem. Find
a cancer stick igniter, and heat the stainless barrel. There will be
a small puff of noxious smog as the CA burns off, and the tip is
clear.

It's quite easy to dispense just one drop with a stainless tip and
quite difficult with a CA encrusted plastic tip commonly found in the
hardware store CA products. If you want a smaller drop, try a smaller
dispenser barrel.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[John Keiser]

Noted.
I will try to upgrade my technique.



"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:teo086duej6vl3ajnohgr2b6tebaudav6k@4ax.com...

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:43:03 -1000, "John Keiser"
john.keiser2@hawaiiantel.net> wrote:

I use it to splice "O" rings into custom sizes. If done properly [clean
single edge razor blade, square cut] holds up well as a VCR drive belt,
even in a swimming pool vacuum line leaf trap. Using a telfon "v" block
would help alignment but I've managed without.

The square cut (butt splice) doesn't work well. The problem is that
the hardened super glue goes across the diameter of the rubber o-ring.
If this diameter is compressed in any way, the superglue cracks, and
the o-ring falls apart. This is especially important for internal
o-ring seals, which use o-ring compression to maintain pressure. I've
done bench tests on various methods and found butt splices lacking. It
will work with a flexible adhesive, such as RTV, but not rock hard CA
glues.

Instead, try a 45 degree bevel cut. If you have an old 1/4" magnetic
tape splicer, there's usually a form and guillotine blade suitable for
the purpose. I do it without any alignment aids, which is good
enough. My favorite cutting device is a safety razor or surgeons
scalpel.

When glued at a 45 degree angle, you get a larger surface contact area
for the glue. The joint is also less in tension and more in shear,
which does make it slightly weaker. I haven't noticed any measureable
difference when I did some stretch tests. The 45 degree splice also
allows the o-ring to be compressed in almost all orientations, without
cracking the CA glue joint.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[isw]

In article <i5q87b$5is$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in message
news:4C80375D.4020906@electrooptical.net...
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but
no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?

Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.


Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.

I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net



How do you use "just a little" with the viscosity almost of liquid helium
and coming in aluminium tubes of a gauge almost the same as tin cans it
seems impossible to squeeze out a small drop, only.

Easy; you just smear it on with your finger 8^}

Isaac

 

[isw]

In article <e9a18692kkr82i2c0vu3dd6oij5835kg0t@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

On Fri, 3 Sep 2010 08:28:29 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

I must adopt the storage
in small airtight bottle with (non cotton) sachet of activated silica gel
inside. Hopefully then it will be more amenable to squeezing out just enough
to wet a needle point to transfer to the intended.

There's a trick. I use bottles with a stainless tube for dispensing
cyanoacrylate adhesive. Something like this.
http://www.technologylk.com/weld-on-applicator-bottle-with-needle-lk-AAB4.htm

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mmr/mmrmkdbp.htm

As soon as you use it, the stainless tip will clog. No problem. Find
a cancer stick igniter, and heat the stainless barrel. There will be
a small puff of noxious smog as the CA burns off, and the tip is
clear.

It's quite easy to dispense just one drop with a stainless tip and
quite difficult with a CA encrusted plastic tip commonly found in the
hardware store CA products. If you want a smaller drop, try a smaller
dispenser barrel.

Some newer formulations can be brushed on; they don't go off as fast,
and it's a lot easier to get the joint properly aligned than it used to
be.

Also, some formulations will work fine with things like paper or
cardboard, too.

Isaac

 

[Phil Hobbs]

isw wrote:

In article <i5q87b$5is$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in message
news:4C80375D.4020906@electrooptical.net...
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:20:39 -0700, Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org
wrote:
Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly
glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but
no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls
of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a
rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but
anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time?
Keeping a bottle of superglue debonder around is a cheap investment.
If you go to a hobby store which carries a selection of cyanoacrylate
glues (usually of different viscosities and bonding speeds) you ought
to find a supply of debonder in the same rack.

Has anybody ever found an application where superglue works well
except on human skin? I find the crap brittle as hell and have yet to
see anything glued with it last more than a few weeks before breaking.
I use it on optical things often, because it's easily removed, like Duco
cement except stronger and faster-setting. As long as you use just a
little, it doesn't cause too much nasty frosting nearby.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net


How do you use "just a little" with the viscosity almost of liquid helium
and coming in aluminium tubes of a gauge almost the same as tin cans it
seems impossible to squeeze out a small drop, only.

Easy; you just smear it on with your finger 8^}

Isaac

You put a drop of it on a bit of scrap plastic, and apply with a
toothpick--just like epoxy. If you use too much, the free surface
outgasses like mad and you wind up with white plastic snow all over
everything. There are 'low outgassing' PMMA formulations, but they're
only low by comparison.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[David]

In article <i5o8e6$9qk$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Surprising I've never done it before . Thumb and second finger firmly glued
to either side of a connecctor. I tried methylated spirits first but no
effect seemingly. Then dilute acetone as nail varnish remover. I was
concerned about being too long on the skin so some cotton wool balls of
acetone around both areas and a Q-tip soaked in acetone, with a rotating
wedge-like motion, cautiously wedging skin from connector worked, but anyone
elses experiences/advice for the next time? Anyone ever glued one hand to
the other ?

If you had posted to one of the model plane club groups you would have
felt very much at home - in that hobby it is endemic

David - with glue free fingers at the moment