spontaneous PC power losses - HELP!

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,
I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Interestingly, trying to turn the machine back on does nothing.
HOWEVER...if I physically unplug the PC, and leave it off for a few
seconds, I then *can* reboot it. Looking inside the case, I notice a
green LED. When this goes out (after unplugging) it signals that I can
now successfully reboot. If I try to reboot before the light goes out
(about a 2 second wait) the reboot fails. I'm assuming the LED is
showing power remaining on the motherboard due to capacitors. I don't
know if that's a hint towards a solution?

Also, when I reboot, most (but not all) of the time the bios has been
reset as well.

Now the questions I've got are:
1) Why? I've installed drives dozens of times, and never had anything
like this.
2) How do I fix it? Presumably a new motherboard will do the trick,
though I'd like to a) confirm that's the cause and b) fix the existing
MB, if at all possible. (Historically, every time I've tried to
replace a MB I've ended up having to replace the entire PC. Apparently
my skills don't lie in that direction!)

Is there any chance I can salvage this board? I have no idea if
replacing the onboard battery, flashing the bios, or any of these
arcane things will do anything to help, or if it's physically broken
and needs a part replaced? A electrician friend tells me he thinks a
capacitor may have gone, but looking at the MB, none of them appear to
be swollen or leaking.

thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!

 

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,
I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Interestingly, trying to turn the machine back on does nothing.
HOWEVER...if I physically unplug the PC, and leave it off for a few
seconds, I then *can* reboot it. Looking inside the case, I notice a
green LED. When this goes out (after unplugging) it signals that I can
now successfully reboot. If I try to reboot before the light goes out
(about a 2 second wait) the reboot fails. I'm assuming the LED is
showing power remaining on the motherboard due to capacitors. I don't
know if that's a hint towards a solution?

Also, when I reboot, most (but not all) of the time the bios has been
reset as well.

Now the questions I've got are:
1) Why? I've installed drives dozens of times, and never had anything
like this.
2) How do I fix it? Presumably a new motherboard will do the trick,
though I'd like to a) confirm that's the cause and b) fix the existing
MB, if at all possible. (Historically, every time I've tried to
replace a MB I've ended up having to replace the entire PC. Apparently
my skills don't lie in that direction!)

Is there any chance I can salvage this board? I have no idea if
replacing the onboard battery, flashing the bios, or any of these
arcane things will do anything to help, or if it's physically broken
and needs a part replaced? A electrician friend tells me he thinks a
capacitor may have gone, but looking at the MB, none of them appear to
be swollen or leaking.

thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!

 

[John \"C\"]

"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote in
message news:87-dner0Rf5BdprVnZ2dnUVZ8gidnZ2d@bt.com...

John "C" wrote:
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.

applause

Thank you!

HJ

 

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[plexter]

Hey I have a svat giga extreme 5000 wireless camera. states that it is
indoor however while not raining/cold outside I should be able to use
to monitor the kids/dogs outdoors as I am working in my office. only
prob is that it is a b/w camera which is fine but outdoors it is way
too bright. should there be any adj on the inside to adj the
brightness ? Can hardly make anything out besides objects that are
really dark. I can only see my lab not my samoide that is pure white.

 

[mm]

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 01:22:11 -0300, Tim <tim@tim.tim> wrote:

In article <mk5g04dmhjvaql8itnnmlhvit79sapi6na@4ax.com>, NOPSAMmm2005
@bigfoot.com says...
What voltage is supplied by the satellite receiver to a Direct TV
antenna? I need to provide the same voltage to something else.

Or should I just start somewhere and work my way up until there is
antenna output? 6 volts?, 9 volts? X volts? DC, I suppose, not AC.


A few weeks ago I asked here what was the strange thing on the Direct
TV dish I found in the trash, and you graciously explained that it was
probably a VHF/UHF tv antenna.

Indeed it was, one not provided by Direct TV, and I just came across
it on the RadioShack amplified antenna search. It's a Terk TV-44.
RS sells it for 70 dollars (though I think it's available a little
cheaper elswhere) RS also sells the thing with the white translucent
plastic cap at the focal point of the dish, for 50 dollars.

So this trashy thing was worth about 120 dollars. I gave away the
white translucent thing, but I'd like to use the tv antenna.

The notes I've found for this say that the antenna is meant to be
powered from the satellite receiver, which I don't have, of course,
and I don't know how much voltage that would be.

The white translucent thing is called an LNBF. It is the antenna part of
a satellite dish. The dish reflects the signal from the satellite into
the LNBF, and that moves it along to the receiver. The LNBF is powered
by the receiver, and uses 2 dc voltages to control the polarity of the
LNBF. 12-15 Volts is one way and 16-18 volts is the other. The actual
signal is ac and rides along the same RG6 coax cable as the DC voltage
does.

Those voltages may be of some help to you.

Definitely. Thank you. I can start with 12 volts and see how it does.
If that doesn't work, I don't think I have anything simple that makes
16 volts, but I can string three alarm batteries together and get 18,
just to test it.

If they had only used one voltage, I'd be done now, but I'm sure the
reason you gave was a good one.

You might want to check the
FCC site about that antenna, maybe it has the input voltage listed for
it.

I'll do that too.

FYI I eventually found the owners manual on the audiovox site. I had
looked under tv-44, which is what Radio Shack called it and maye other
vendors, but they had it as TV44, and the webpage couldn't figure it
out. And even though lots of places are still selling it, they don't
have it as one of their current products, which I think is strange. (I
had also tried to find the model number among the current products.)

I'm on my second Radio Shack amplified antenna, and about a week ago,
I stopped getting DC stations in Baltimore. The antenna might not be
plugged in anymore, or the wall wart might have burned out, or the
antenna. If it's not the antenna now, it will be eventually, and I
try to keep ahead of the game.

- Tim -

If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM

 

[§ńühw¤Łf]

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 09:41:16 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,
I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Interestingly, trying to turn the machine back on does nothing.
HOWEVER...if I physically unplug the PC, and leave it off for a few
seconds, I then *can* reboot it. Looking inside the case, I notice a
green LED. When this goes out (after unplugging) it signals that I can
now successfully reboot. If I try to reboot before the light goes out
(about a 2 second wait) the reboot fails. I'm assuming the LED is
showing power remaining on the motherboard due to capacitors. I don't
know if that's a hint towards a solution?

Also, when I reboot, most (but not all) of the time the bios has been
reset as well.

Now the questions I've got are:
1) Why? I've installed drives dozens of times, and never had anything
like this.
2) How do I fix it? Presumably a new motherboard will do the trick,
though I'd like to a) confirm that's the cause and b) fix the existing
MB, if at all possible. (Historically, every time I've tried to
replace a MB I've ended up having to replace the entire PC. Apparently
my skills don't lie in that direction!)

Is there any chance I can salvage this board? I have no idea if
replacing the onboard battery, flashing the bios, or any of these
arcane things will do anything to help, or if it's physically broken
and needs a part replaced?

A electrician friend tells me he thinks a
capacitor may have gone

LMAO

MAybe in the new drive?

but looking at the MB, none of them appear to
be swollen or leaking.

thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!

After all that waffle and piffle, you never even once conidered removing the
fucking DVD drive. Right?

Sure. test it in a new unit.

Then mess around in the BIOS...then notice that OMG! My show is coming on!
Leave for few days and come back and everything works magically.
Blame evil haunted equipment.

--
http://www.encyclopediadramatica.com/images/0/06/Centipedes.jpg

 

[captainvideo462002@yahoo.]

I have a need for a power meter for general low band and VHF work. I
would like it to have at least two scales. One, a 0 - 10 W or so
scale and if possible another which would enable it to measure up to
around 125 W as well. The immediate need to satisfy the requirements
of a job we're doing is for an instrument that can measure 1.0 W at
72.0 MHZ. The signal is AM with a duration of .50 sec. and there is
some type of digital alarm transmission which modulates the carrier.
The only way I think that I can do this now is to measure the RMS
voltage accross a 52 ohm dummy load with my Boonton, and then
calculate the power. I feel though that this is clumsy and may be
potentially inaccurate. I'd love to have a Bird with all the bells and
whistles but I really can't afford one. Does anyone know of a home
brew project for doing this or even an inexpensive accurate kit?
Thanks, Lenny.

 

[John \"C\"]

"§ńühw¤Łf" <snuhwolf@netscape.net> wrote in message
newsK2dnQV4ZYY3kZTVnZ2dnUVZ_uCinZ2d@centurytel.net...

"John \"C\"" <honestjohn@centurytel.net> clouded the waters of pure
thought with:

"§ńühw¤Łf" <snuhwolf@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:20080418092201.4d7d833c@vector...
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:23:44 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote
in
message
news:87-dner0Rf5BdprVnZ2dnUVZ8gidnZ2d@bt.com...
John "C" wrote:
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in
message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.


Correction.

Welcome to the John 'C' Show

- Featuring Kadaitcha Man stalker, John 'C'.

I have the cunt plonked. As you no doubt see, there is no benefit
to
reading
any of his tripe.


Actually there *is*
I got him to fess up to being a WIFE BEATER.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
As per Arkansas Law.

So your defence of your action is that if its legal its also moral?
I beg to differ.

That's what my 10th. cousin George Bush says!

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I'd go with that. Although very unusual for a motor like this. The
rotor is just a pile of steel plates with the bars of the squirrel cage
embedded in them and welded at the ends.

Is it always the same orientation of the rotor?

Another possibility is that the centrifugal or other starting switch
is somehow not closing so the starting winding is not being energized.
I don't know how rotating the shaft a few degrees could cure this though.

Some endplay in the armarture? I've seen it a couple times where the
switch is worn, and the axial movment was enough to trip the switch.

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

 

[msg]

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:

I have a need for a power meter for general low band and VHF work. I
would like it to have at least two scales. One, a 0 - 10 W or so
scale and if possible another which would enable it to measure up to
around 125 W as well. The immediate need to satisfy the requirements
of a job we're doing is for an instrument that can measure 1.0 W at
72.0 MHZ. The signal is AM with a duration of .50 sec. and there is
some type of digital alarm transmission which modulates the carrier.
The only way I think that I can do this now is to measure the RMS
voltage accross a 52 ohm dummy load with my Boonton, and then
calculate the power. I feel though that this is clumsy and may be
potentially inaccurate. I'd love to have a Bird with all the bells and
whistles but I really can't afford one. Does anyone know of a home
brew project for doing this or even an inexpensive accurate kit?
Thanks, Lenny.

Some thoughts:

1. find a bolometer head that covers your frequency of interest on
eBay and build the rest of the meter (or perhaps buy the whole
thing if cheap enough).

2. look for old military RF power test sets that included a mess of
attenuators, directional couplers and a bolometer head together
with the meter in a steel case (used to be very cheap and readily
available but perhaps times have changed).

3. build something out of the ARRL handbook.

Michael

 

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[Jerry G.]

I would not advise USB to USB to transfer files. USB was not designed
for this.

It is best done through the Ethernet port. There is a lot of
information available about how to make a simple network between two
computers for transfering files.


Jerry G.
-----------



On Apr 18, 2:41 pm, "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a need for a site that describes this procedure, thanks in
advance.

                                                ctops.legal

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Apr 18, 9:29 pm, msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote:

captainvideo462...@yahoo.com wrote:
I have a need for a power meter for general low band and VHF work. I
would like it to have at least two scales. One,  a 0 - 10 W or so
scale and if possible another which would enable it to measure up to
around 125 W as well. The immediate need to satisfy the requirements
of a job we're doing is for an instrument that can measure 1.0 W at
72.0 MHZ. The signal is AM with a duration of .50 sec. and there is
some type of digital alarm transmission which modulates the carrier.
The only way I think that I can do this now is to measure the RMS
voltage accross a 52 ohm dummy load with my Boonton, and then
calculate the power. I feel though that this is clumsy and may be
potentially inaccurate. I'd love to have a Bird with all the bells and
whistles but I really can't afford one. Does anyone know of a home
brew project for doing this or even an inexpensive accurate kit?
Thanks, Lenny.

Some thoughts:

1. find a bolometer head that covers your frequency of interest on
    eBay and build the rest of the meter (or perhaps buy the whole
    thing if cheap enough).

2. look for old military RF power test sets that included a mess of
    attenuators, directional couplers and a bolometer head together
    with the meter in a steel case (used to be very cheap and readily
    available but perhaps times have changed).

3. build something out of the ARRL handbook.

Michael

Do you have access to a scope that has a decent response at 72 MHz?
That and an accurate dummy load should be enough.

 

thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!

After all that waffle and piffle, you never even once conidered removing the
fucking DVD drive. Right?

Wow, you're quick to jump to conclusions. If you read the post, you'll
notice that:

"...I've tried replacing the power supply, and I've tried removing all
my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related."

So yes, of course I removed the DVD drive. Logically, the first thing
to try...

 

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distributed. Only use a carrier to move the baby about when you are
walking. Never use it to transport the baby on a bike, in a car, or any other
means of transportation. Check the carrier from time to time for any damage:
things like a
r
ipped seam, a missing or loose snap or strap, or a place where
the fabric has worn through and a sharp edge is protruding.
From: service0044@watchec.com
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For soft carriers, make sure that it's washable and has adjustable
straps. This allows you to keep the same great fit as your baby grows.
Your baby should fit snugly, and have good head support, and their
weight should be evenly distributed. Only use a carrier to move the
baby about when you are walking. Never use it to transport the baby on
a bike, in a car, or any other means of transportation. Check the
carrier from time to time for any damage: things like a ripped seam, a
missing or loose snap or strap, or a place where the fabric has worn
through and a sharp edge is protruding.


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Some car seats convert to lift-out-and-carry baby carriers. While
these can be heavy and bulky, some mothers prefer them to traditional
carriers. Many are designed to snap into a car seat base, or into a
stroller. Only use those types of models together. Never take a base
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something to hold your carrier in it. In an accident, the carrier will
break free, and your baby will become a projectile! If you own a new
car, never put your baby's carrier / car seat in the front. In the
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