Spade connectors current ratings...

[Phil Allison]

Joe Gwinn wrote:
Lasse Langwadt Christensen
=========================

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of failure?

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable than
solder.

** So all the ones that fail were therefore improperly made - right ?
Nice example of a circular definition.

There are way too many things to get right before crimping is reliable at all.


...... Phil

 

[Ed Lee]

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 5:30:59 PM UTC-7, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2022-06-24, Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well..

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?
The yellow ones take 10AWG wire.

how many amps that allows depends on how hot it gets. So it depends
on how good your crimp tool is, and other factors. I cant find any
data sheets that list ampacity for the connectors.

someone posted:
\"size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size \"
which is more reasonable as the contact mating current capacity.

personally I like the uninsualted fast-disconnects better, (the ones
that make a \"B\" shaped crimp cross-section) but that may just be
because I\'ve never onwed a good crimp tool for the pre-insulated
ones.

It\'s not a good idea to use uninsulated connector for 400V, if you accidentally touch more than one of them.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2022-06-25, Ed Lee <edward.ming.lee@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 5:30:59 PM UTC-7, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2022-06-24, Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?
The yellow ones take 10AWG wire.

how many amps that allows depends on how hot it gets. So it depends
on how good your crimp tool is, and other factors. I cant find any
data sheets that list ampacity for the connectors.

someone posted:
\"size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size \"
which is more reasonable as the contact mating current capacity.

personally I like the uninsualted fast-disconnects better, (the ones
that make a \"B\" shaped crimp cross-section) but that may just be
because I\'ve never onwed a good crimp tool for the pre-insulated
ones.

It\'s not a good idea to use uninsulated connector for 400V, if you accidentally touch more than one of them.

shrouds and sleeves are available to insulate after crimping.


--
Jasen.

 

[server]

Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote in
news:88a83f98-b9ff-4b05-ad85-12f5069b7576n@googlegroups.com:

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org:
Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can
handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If
the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires
as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant
for that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current
that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap
Home Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal
to the plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferen
ceG uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good
for 400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features
of Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each).
32x6 connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated
segment and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it
in instead of crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no
breaks in it and two connections need only one lug.

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of
failure?

Maximize? Maybe in a high stress constant flexing scenario. These
are not going to be moving around.

With crimp in a weathered setting as this, there may be oxidation
issues with a mere crimp. A crimp AND soldering makes for a slightly
better longevity, especially if one is using a cheap consumer single
impingement crimp element instead of a good hex crimper or Amp
crimper (w crimp).

Soldering after crimping gives perhaps a bit more tensile capacity,
and makes it weather tight.

Soldering without crimping is less tensile strength than both
together, but no less than crimp alone. Crimp alone is open to the
environment though. Not many field crimps are gas tight and can
oxidize or even exhibit galvanic responses.

So it is more about weathering longevity. The 180 bend segments at
all the key points in the wire makes for a better connection from
cell to cell and less lugs are needed. I suppose one could place two
wire ends in one lug, but I feel that the 180 degree bend in the
continuous wire makes for a better way to make each node.

 

[server]

Ed Lee <edward.ming.lee@gmail.com> wrote in
news:d43cd76f-1516-447c-98b5-8c063fc345d5n@googlegroups.com:

I just need something better than the other connections, so they
blow up before the main feed, which is more difficult to replace.

You want connections that act as fuses?

Bad, extremely flawed logic.

 

[server]

Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> wrote in
news:uifcbhhdi5t5mm9facm0ahr067dicvt35l@4ax.com:

On Fri, 24 Jun 2022 10:46:57 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt
Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org:
Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can
handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If
the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle
30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires
as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant
for that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current
that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap
Home Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal
to the plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickRefere
nceG uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good
for 400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C
charge/discharge should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features
of Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring
so that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each).
32x6 connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but
that still does not discount the fact that it is what you should
use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated
segment and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it
in instead of crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no
breaks in it and two connections need only one lug.

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of
failure?

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable
than solder.

Joe Gwinn

Tensile wise, sure. No other reason.

Both are actually best in a non flexure environment. Crimp, then
solder. Rules out PVC completely because it creeps away from heat.
That PVC crap should have been drummed out of the industry decades
ago, IMNSHO.

 

[server]

Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote in
news:52dcf7f0-766b-43b6-b412-3552acc3c6b7n@googlegroups.com:

lørdag den 25. juni 2022 kl. 00.45.38 UTC+2 skrev Joe Gwinn:
On Fri, 24 Jun 2022 10:46:57 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt
Christensen <lang...@fonz.dk> wrote:

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev
DecadentLinux...@decad
ence.org:
Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can
handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire.
If the

blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub
wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec
your current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is
meant for that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the
current that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant
JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap
Home Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base
metal to the plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickRefe
renceG

uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of
30A then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good
for 400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C
charge/discharge should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key
features of Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring
so that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the
main feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets
of 12V batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4
each). 32x6 connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but
that still does not discount the fact that it is what you
should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated
segment and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder
it in instead of

crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it
and two connections need only one lug.

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of
failure
?
Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable
than solder.

exactly

Nice try. If he does not want to pay for a premium brand of lugs,
he is not going to have a premium grade crimper, so attaining \"a
proper crimp\" is not as easy as it is in an industrial setting with
proper tools being used.

 

[Ed Lee]

On Saturday, June 25, 2022 at 1:03:05 AM UTC-7, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:

Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:d43cd76f-1516-447c...@googlegroups.com:
I just need something better than the other connections, so they
blow up before the main feed, which is more difficult to replace.

You want connections that act as fuses?

Bad, extremely flawed logic.

There is a 30A fuse. Unfortunately, they don\'t have 28A fuse. If any connector burn out, i just want the main feed to be the last.

 

[whit3rd]

On Saturday, June 25, 2022 at 1:08:59 AM UTC-7, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:

Lasse Langwadt Christensen <lang...@fonz.dk> wrote in
news:52dcf7f0-766b-43b6...@googlegroups.com:
lørdag den 25. juni 2022 kl. 00.45.38 UTC+2 skrev Joe Gwinn:

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable
than solder.

exactly

Nice try. If he does not want to pay for a premium brand of lugs,
he is not going to have a premium grade crimper, so attaining \"a
proper crimp\" is not as easy as it is in an industrial setting with
proper tools being used.

Yeah, the \'yellow lugs\' mentioned are insulated, consumer items.
Better crimping uses barrel crimps, electrode paste (for aluminum),
well-stripped wire of the right gage, and a ratchet crimper that gets
recertified occasionally, and... pulling random stuff out of the drawer
and getting it all right is hard. Sometimes, I solder over a crimp, because...
well, I goofed. But, I have used the right hydraulic crimp tools on heavy cable, too; it\'s
reliable all right.