Spade connectors current ratings...

[Ed Lee]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

 

[Ricky]

On Sunday, June 26, 2022 at 12:19:29 AM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:

On Saturday, June 25, 2022 at 1:08:59 AM UTC-7, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:
Lasse Langwadt Christensen <lang...@fonz.dk> wrote in
news:52dcf7f0-766b-43b6...@googlegroups.com:
lørdag den 25. juni 2022 kl. 00.45.38 UTC+2 skrev Joe Gwinn:

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable
than solder.

exactly

Nice try. If he does not want to pay for a premium brand of lugs,
he is not going to have a premium grade crimper, so attaining \"a
proper crimp\" is not as easy as it is in an industrial setting with
proper tools being used.
Yeah, the \'yellow lugs\' mentioned are insulated, consumer items.
Better crimping uses barrel crimps, electrode paste (for aluminum),
well-stripped wire of the right gage, and a ratchet crimper that gets
recertified occasionally, and... pulling random stuff out of the drawer
and getting it all right is hard. Sometimes, I solder over a crimp, because...
well, I goofed. But, I have used the right hydraulic crimp tools on heavy cable, too; it\'s
reliable all right.

What surprises me, is this is the primary way of connecting lead-acid batteries that are bigger than a D cell, and smaller than a motorcycle battery. The potential for reversing the leads is not tiny and the consequences enormous! I believe the lithium batteries typically used in model airplanes, etc. have a polarized connector that even offers protection from the surge current when plugged in.

--

Rick C.

- Get 1,000 miles of free Supercharging
- Tesla referral code - https://ts.la/richard11209

 

[Ed Lee]

On Sunday, June 26, 2022 at 8:45:40 AM UTC-7, Ricky wrote:

On Sunday, June 26, 2022 at 12:19:29 AM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:
On Saturday, June 25, 2022 at 1:08:59 AM UTC-7, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:
Lasse Langwadt Christensen <lang...@fonz.dk> wrote in
news:52dcf7f0-766b-43b6...@googlegroups.com:
lørdag den 25. juni 2022 kl. 00.45.38 UTC+2 skrev Joe Gwinn:

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable
than solder.

exactly

Nice try. If he does not want to pay for a premium brand of lugs,
he is not going to have a premium grade crimper, so attaining \"a
proper crimp\" is not as easy as it is in an industrial setting with
proper tools being used.
Yeah, the \'yellow lugs\' mentioned are insulated, consumer items.
Better crimping uses barrel crimps, electrode paste (for aluminum),
well-stripped wire of the right gage, and a ratchet crimper that gets
recertified occasionally, and... pulling random stuff out of the drawer
and getting it all right is hard. Sometimes, I solder over a crimp, because...
well, I goofed. But, I have used the right hydraulic crimp tools on heavy cable, too; it\'s
reliable all right.
What surprises me, is this is the primary way of connecting lead-acid batteries that are bigger than a D cell, and smaller than a motorcycle battery.. The potential for reversing the leads is not tiny and the consequences enormous! I believe the lithium batteries typically used in model airplanes, etc. have a polarized connector that even offers protection from the surge current when plugged in.

I use male plugs for positive and female socket for negative. No chance of reversing. For uni-sexual male circuit breaker, i use a short female to female adapter glued to it.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

Ed Lee <edward.ming.lee@gmail.com> wrote:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can
hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Because it\'s a garbage connector kit that you linked to.

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink,
using the yellow connectors?

30 amps is no problem with a 0.250 faston stuff. Buy US made terminals
that have fully welded sleeves for the wire or a second metal shroud
over the folded part.

You can see the second sleeve on this splash page for 3M if you look
carefully at the dark blue terminal on the left.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/c/electrical/crimp-terminals/

Panduit makes good crimp terminals too. Whatever Amp is named this week
makes quality terminals too, but good luck sifting through all the
variations of stuff.

There are also non-copper terminals for high temperature use for things
like heating elements.

A good quality crimper and dies are required for a solid, high current
ready connection.

Panduit has a decent line of controlled cycle crimpers. Even the \"pliers\"
CT-260 is a good tool for the style that\'s generally considered terrible.
The bolter-cutter, wire stripper and crimp tools made of stamped sheet
metal are no good.

I use an AMP ratcheting style tool that takes the standard 3 size/gang
dies. Good dies are polished so they release from the connector.

If you want to cadillac of crimpers and dies, DMC is the place to talk to.

 

[server]

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in
news:t9bko7$214$1@reader2.panix.com:

snip

DMC makes the mil pin crimpers. They have a quad style impingement
die.

The best electrical large lug commercial crimpers are AMP and Panduit
and others like TE connectivity. No sense spending 500 dollars on a
DMC when you can get an AMP for a few hundred less.

Panduit, AMP, Leviton, TTI.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@decadence.org wrote:

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in
news:t9bko7$214$1@reader2.panix.com:

snip

DMC makes the mil pin crimpers. They have a quad style impingement
die.

The best electrical large lug commercial crimpers are AMP and Panduit
and others like TE connectivity. No sense spending 500 dollars on a
DMC when you can get an AMP for a few hundred less.

Panduit, AMP, Leviton, TTI.

DMC makes the plain 1\" dies too. I\'ve not looked for any on ebay, but good
tools turn up there all the time.

 

[Don Y]

On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?

 

[Phil Allison]

Don WHY wrote:
=================

On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?


Why not use Anderson connectors?

** Cost ??


...... Phil

 

[Ed Lee]

On Thursday, June 23, 2022 at 8:16:13 PM UTC-7, palli...@gmail.com wrote:

Don WHY wrote:
=================
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?


Why not use Anderson connectors?
** Cost ??
and availability.

We use these everywhere in hooking up batteries. It\'s OK to burn them out elsewhere, but not with the main feeds. These on the main feed would be difficult to replace; so, we want them to burn last.

 

[server]

Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1@dont-email.me:

On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A
as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat
sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?

The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your current
at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for that gauge of
wire, then it can also handle the current that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home Depot
chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the plating on it.

 

[John Walliker]

On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:

Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A
as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat
sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your current
at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for that gauge of
wire, then it can also handle the current that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home Depot
chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the plating on it.

From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceGuide.PDF

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A then use the
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of Powerpole
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so that each
uses the most suitable material for its function.

John

 

[Phil Allison]

John Walliker wrote:
=================

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of Powerpole
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so that each
uses the most suitable material for its function.

** Yes, the design is excellent and suited to many cycles of use.
Plus you can parallel them in multiples to eliminate connection errors.

OTOH QCs play right into Murphy\'s hands.


....... Phil

 

[Ed Lee]

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker wrote:

On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A
as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat
sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your current
at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for that gauge of
wire, then it can also handle the current that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home Depot
chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceGuide.PDF

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A then use the
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for 400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of Powerpole
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so that each
uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6 connectors cost money.

 

[server]

Ed Lee <edward.ming.lee@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e-b932-85f5ae286385n@googlegroups.com:

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle
30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as
heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for
that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that
wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home
Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the
plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceG
uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for
400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of
Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6
connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment
and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of
crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two
connections need only one lug.

Unless you are talking about large gauge wires and want something
like the robot wars guys use.

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christensen]

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev DecadentLinux...@decadence.org:

Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle
30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as
heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for
that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that
wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home
Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the
plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceG
uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for
400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of
Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6
connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment
and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of
crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two
connections need only one lug.

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of failure?

 

[Ed Lee]

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 10:34:02 AM UTC-7, DecadentLinux...@decadence.org wrote:

Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle
30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as
heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for
that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that
wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home
Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the
plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceG
uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for
400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of
Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6
connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment
and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of
crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two
connections need only one lug.

Unless you are talking about large gauge wires and want something
like the robot wars guys use.

I just need something better than the other connections, so they blow up before the main feed, which is more difficult to replace.

 

[Ed Lee]

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:10:57 PM UTC-7, Ed Lee wrote:

On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 10:34:02 AM UTC-7, DecadentLinux...@decadence..org wrote:
Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle
30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as
heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for
that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that
wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home
Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the
plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceG
uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for
400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of
Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6
connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment
and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of
crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two
connections need only one lug.

Unless you are talking about large gauge wires and want something
like the robot wars guys use.
I just need something better than the other connections, so they blow up before the main feed, which is more difficult to replace.

Actually, it\'s more of safety problem. I have a case mounted connector on the battery housing, but it would be inaccessible with the battery mounted on the vehicle. So, the main feeds are half-lived (one side of 200V) even with the shut off switched removed.

While testing, i had a nasty plastic burn with the meter test leads gapped. The leads vaporized and covered my fingers with black plastic powders. It hurts but no serious damages. So, respect your 400V battery.

 

[Joe Gwinn]

On Fri, 24 Jun 2022 10:46:57 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
<langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev DecadentLinux...@decadence.org:
Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle
30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as
heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for
that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that
wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home
Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the
plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceG
uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for
400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of
Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6
connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment
and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of
crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two
connections need only one lug.

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of failure?

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable than
solder.

Joe Gwinn

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christensen]

lørdag den 25. juni 2022 kl. 00.45.38 UTC+2 skrev Joe Gwinn:

On Fri, 24 Jun 2022 10:46:57 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
lang...@fonz.dk> wrote:

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev DecadentLinux...@decadence.org:
Ed Lee <edward....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:a887f1de-ed5c-439e...@googlegroups.com:
On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 12:35:27 AM UTC-7, John Walliker
wrote:
On Friday, 24 June 2022 at 05:04:53 UTC+1,
DecadentLinux...@decadence.org
wrote:
Don Y <blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote in
news:t939gu$n72$1...@dont-email.me:
On 6/23/2022 7:38 PM, Ed Lee wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle
30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the
blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as
heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

Why not use Anderson connectors?
The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your
current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for
that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that
wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home
Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the
plating on it.
From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity
size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size
size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size
size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size
size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/TEConnectivityFASTONQuickReferenceG
uide.PD
F

If you want reliable operation at a continuous current of 30A
then use th
e
wider 375 series (9.5mm).

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for
400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge
should be within spec.

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of
Powerpol
e
connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so
that each

uses the most suitable material for its function.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main
feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V
batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6
connectors cost money.

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that
still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment
and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of
crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two
connections need only one lug.

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of failure?
Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable than
solder.

exactly

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2022-06-24, Ed Lee <edward.ming.lee@gmail.com> wrote:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144578327967

Blue is 15A. Yellow is 24A. But i need 30A.

The contact areas are the same and looks like it can handle 30A as well.

The only difference is the cylinder holding the wire. If the blue can hold 3xAWG18 (30A), why can\'t it handle 30A?

Can i add more wires, for example, 3 more 1\" stub wires as heat sink, using the yellow connectors?

The yellow ones take 10AWG wire.

how many amps that allows depends on how hot it gets. So it depends
on how good your crimp tool is, and other factors. I cant find any
data sheets that list ampacity for the connectors.

personally I like the uninsualted fast-disconnects better, (the ones
that make a \"B\" shaped crimp cross-section) but that may just be
because I\'ve never onwed a good crimp tool for the pre-insulated
ones.

--
Jasen.