Solid State Relays and EMI

[Winfield Hill]

Edward wrote...

I´m tryig to repair an equipment that has this transistor and i need
to know it´s specification and parameters. Can anyone send this datasheet?

It's a 450V (750V) 8A 150W npn TO-3 power transistor. I placed a
copy of the datasheet on a.b.s.e., and can mail you one if you need.


--
Thanks,
- Win

(email: use hill_at_rowland-dotties-org for now)

 

[Fred Bloggs]

Edward wrote:

Hi!

I´m tryig to repair an equipment that has this transistor and i need to know
it´s specification and parameters. Can anyone send this datasheet?


Thanks in advance.

It crosses to the NTE2319 which is all you need to know for repair
purposes: http://www.nteinc.com/specs/2300to2399/pdf/nte2319.pdf

 

[legg]

On 17 Aug 2004 03:38:12 -0700, eduardm76@pop.com.br (Edward) wrote:

Hi!

IŤm tryig to repair an equipment that has this transistor and i need to know
itŤs specification and parameters. Can anyone send this datasheet?


MJ13081 is a slightly higher voltage version of MJ13080.

081 080

Vceo 450 400
Vcev 750 650
Ic 8A
Icpk 12A
Pd 150W
Tj -65 to 200C
Rthj 1,17 C/W
hfe min 8 @ 5A/3Vce

It is a switching transistor characterized for driven forced beta of
5,

It's basically a faster version of 2N6545.
Replacements with ~same speed might be RJH6545, MJ16008, MJ16012.

RL

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 07:16:45 +0000 (UTC), Peter A Forbes
<diesel@easynet.co.uk> put finger to keyboard and composed:

On Sun, 15 Aug 2004 16:35:39 +1000, Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au
wrote:

The short version: How does one suppress back emf switching
transients from a bidirectional DC motor?

snipped

- Franc Zabkar

Have you tried a decent sized Varistor? They are not polarity conscious and are
rated for AC or DC. Philips/BC Components do a good range and GE used to do
them, might be under a different name now.

Peter

I had thought about MOVs, but for some reason I didn't feel
comfortable with this approach. However, I think this EPCOS varistor,
B72220S250K101, *may* be suitable. It is rated at 31Vdc, 39Vv(1mA),
26J, 2000A(peak).

I'll offer all three solutions (MOV, transzorb, RC suppression) to the
customer. Thanks to all for your input.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Michael A. Covington]

"John Miller" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:cfu2r4$7rh$1@n4vu.com...

Michael A. Covington wrote:
So it's a sealed-bid auction disguised as an open-bid auction. eBay
should make up their mind.

But how could sniping be eliminated?

As I said a while back, do what www.astromart.com does and do what real
auctioneers do: Extend the bidding as long as the bids are still going up by
more than a specified small percentage. Instead of stopping at a
prearranged time, you stop as soon after that time as the bidding actually
stops.

 

[John Miller]

Michael A. Covington wrote:

As I said a while back, do what www.astromart.com does and do what real
auctioneers do: Extend the bidding as long as the bids are still going up
by
more than a specified small percentage. Instead of stopping at a
prearranged time, you stop as soon after that time as the bidding actually
stops.

Yeah! I get it. Not completely unlike knowing when to stop popping the
corn.

--
John Miller
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm

Predestination was doomed from the start.

 

[Ampdoc]

A while back motorola spun off or sold it's semiconductor shop, and device
data for Motorola products are now owned by ON semi.

http://www.onsemi.com

Datasheets can be found there for any ON/Motorola product.

--
Jammy Harbin
J & J Electronics, Inc.
227 S. 4th St.
Selmer, TN 38375
731-645-3311
"Edward" <eduardm76@pop.com.br> wrote in message
news:bc447aeb.0408170157.19491658@posting.google.com...

Hi!

I´m tryig to repair an equipment that has this transistor and i need to
know
it´s specification and parameters. Can anyone send this datasheet?


Thanks in advance.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"John Miller" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:cfu2r4$7rh$1@n4vu.com...

Michael A. Covington wrote:
So it's a sealed-bid auction disguised as an open-bid auction. eBay
should make up their mind.

But how could sniping be eliminated?

Why should it be? You place your maximum (sensible, informed) bid, come
back after the auction has ended, and find out if you won. What diff
does it make if bidders wait to the last millisecond to bid?

--
John Miller

 

[Commander Dave]

The advantage of sniping is that you disguise your interest in an item and
avoiding "bidding fever" by the other guys.

If you bid your max, and someone comes along and bids their max (which is
below yours), they instantly know they lost the auction unless they bid
more. So frequently they decide to bid more after all... which up's the
price (a bidding war). If you snipe, they other guy bids his max and he is
the high bidder until you snipe it and win (or lose as the case may be). The
other guy has no chance to rethink his max bid.

Of course, you don't win everything by sniping. You still have to determine
your max bid ahead of time, but sniping can make a difference. I've gotten
hate mail before when I've won an auction by sniping.

Other problems with sniping is that if the bids are low on an item, the
seller will sometimes pull the auction thinking he won't get what he wants
for the item. Live by the sword and die by the sword... but of course,
another similar item will eventually come along.

My 2 cents...
-Commander Dave

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com>
wrote:

Why should it be? You place your maximum (sensible, informed) bid, come
back after the auction has ended, and find out if you won. What diff
does it make if bidders wait to the last millisecond to bid?


--
John Miller

 

[Per-Ĺke Andersson]

Ampdoc wrote:

A while back motorola spun off or sold it's semiconductor shop, and device
data for Motorola products are now owned by ON semi.

http://www.onsemi.com

Datasheets can be found there for any ON/Motorola product.

Not MJ13081

What I can see.

/Per-Ake
--
Remove "extra" in my e-mail

 

[Winfield Hill]

Ampdoc wrote...

A while back motorola spun off or sold it's semiconductor shop,
and device data for Motorola products are now owned by ON semi.
http://www.onsemi.com

They spun off linear ICs, power transistors, discretes, etc.,
logic, power management, etc., but not Microprocessors, DSPs,
memory, some RF parts, sensors, etc.

Datasheets can be found there for any ON/Motorola product.

Except for some older discontinued products, many of which have
been expunged from ON Semi's new site, but which could often
still be found in the backreaches of Motorola's old site. Now
that the rest of Motorola's semiconductors have been spun off
to Freescale, these old archive datasheets may finally become
completely unobtainable from any of the factory sites.
http://www.freescale.com/


--
Thanks,
- Win

(email: use hill_at_rowland-dotties-org for now)

 

[legg]

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 22:09:08 -0500, "Ampdoc"
<ampdoc@NOSPAMhotmail.com> wrote:

A while back motorola spun off or sold it's semiconductor shop, and device
data for Motorola products are now owned by ON semi.

http://www.onsemi.com

Datasheets can be found there for any ON/Motorola product.

MJ13081 was removed from the Motorola product line, prior to the
publication of the 1989 paper catalog.

The only parts marketed by successor ON, currently, of similar
characteristics, are plastic 125W devices.

RL

 

[Ryan Wheeler]

Herbert West wrote:

I need to fabricate adaptors for PLC packages and discrete parts to
fit standard DIP sockets. Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to
find suitable headers to use as pins for these adaptors.

The headers I've thus been able to find are based on strips of molex
type pins, and the pins are much "fatter" than true DIP device pins.
This usually bends the connectors in the socket so far out of shape
that they can never again make solid contact with the pins of a real
IC.

Does anybody know if there are avaiable DIP headers whose pins are
closer in dimension to that of real IC pins? If not, can you suggest
a workaround using more common parts? (I've already tried using IC
sockets, but the pins are much thinner and weaker and don't securely
plug into place, not to mention that there's no place on top to solder
wires and components).

I recall seeing DIP plugs for ribbon cable with teeth and a pressure
fitting cap. These should be suitable, as they were made to plug into
a standard DIP socket. I could simply discard the cap and solder
directly to the teeth. Alas, I cannot seem to find them in any
catalogue. I don't even know what to properly call them.

Thanks for any advice!

look at a MOLEX or AMP catalog

 

[Michael A. Covington]

"Commander Dave" <cmdr-dave@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:10i64n88hom2646@corp.supernews.com...

The advantage of sniping is that you disguise your interest in an item and
avoiding "bidding fever" by the other guys.

Precisely. Thank you.

In a sealed-bid auction, nobody would know about anybody else's bids. In an
open-bid auction, everybody would have an opportunity to outbid everybody
else if they want to. On eBay, with "autosniping," we seem to have the
worst of both worlds.

If you bid your max, and someone comes along and bids their max (which is
below yours), they instantly know they lost the auction unless they bid
more. So frequently they decide to bid more after all... which up's the
price (a bidding war).

Right! Advantage of open-bid auctions, now absent on eBay due to sniping.

Of course, you don't win everything by sniping. You still have to
determine
your max bid ahead of time, but sniping can make a difference. I've gotten
hate mail before when I've won an auction by sniping.

Sadly, there are those who view sniping as a sport (a kind of racing) and
who have lost sight of the real purpose of the auction. Sorry, I don't go
to eBay to play sniping games... I go there to buy and sell things.

 

[Don Bruder]

In article <41237ab7@mustang.speedfactory.net>,
"Michael A. Covington" <look@ai.uga.edu.for.address> wrote:

Sadly, there are those who view sniping as a sport (a kind of racing) and
who have lost sight of the real purpose of the auction. Sorry, I don't go
to eBay to play sniping games... I go there to buy and sell things.

Which is precisely the reason I am, and will continue to be, a sniper.

I'm not interested in bidding games. I want the item. I know what it's
worth to me. I could care less what it's worth to you. And I damn well
don't care at all if some poor seller doesn't get top-dollar for a
"commodity" item.

Therefore, I figure out what I'm willing to pay when I find a listing
that interests me, then I sit back until a second or two before the end
of the auction, and drop that amount in as a bid. So far, I've never
paid more than I valued the item at, and have never been "out-sniped".

Those of you crying foul overhaving an item sniped out from under you...
"Too bad, so sad". You should have bid what you were willing to pay, and
made sure that amount was more than what I was willing to pay.

And that's the long and short of it: You anti-sniping folks are crying
because you got something taken away from you by someone who knew what
they wanted, knew what it was worth to them, and wanted it worse than
you did. Get over it.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.

 

[John Miller]

Michael A. Covington wrote:

Sadly, there are those who view sniping as a sport (a kind of racing) and
who have lost sight of the real purpose of the auction.

Let's be fair, Michael. We know you don't like sniping, but I can't imagine
anyone sniping just for the sport of it, whose real purpose isn't to buy
something. (Oh, I can imagine it, but we also have to know that kind of
behavior is pretty self-limiting.)

Sorry, I don't go
to eBay to play sniping games... I go there to buy and sell things.

There's no sincerer eBay purchaser than me, and I've discovered through
hard-won experience that the practical way to be successful in eBay
auctions is to snipe.

Don't think for a minute that I prefer it that way, but the world is what it
is, and not always what we would wish for it to be.
--
John Miller
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm

"It doesn't much signify whom one marries for one is sure to find out next
morning it was someone else."
-Rogers

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <LbNUc.8416$54.122899@typhoon.sonic.net>,
Don Bruder <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote:

Sadly, there are those who view sniping as a sport (a kind of racing) and
who have lost sight of the real purpose of the auction. Sorry, I don't go
to eBay to play sniping games... I go there to buy and sell things.

Which is precisely the reason I am, and will continue to be, a sniper.

I'm not interested in bidding games. I want the item. I know what it's
worth to me. I could care less what it's worth to you. And I damn well
don't care at all if some poor seller doesn't get top-dollar for a
"commodity" item.

Therefore, I figure out what I'm willing to pay when I find a listing
that interests me, then I sit back until a second or two before the end
of the auction, and drop that amount in as a bid. So far, I've never
paid more than I valued the item at, and have never been "out-sniped".

My own feelings, and my own experience are similar to yours. I do use
sniping software, to avoid triggering peoples' "bidding war" instincts.

I've lost an occasional sniped auction because I *was* outbid...
sometimes by another sniper, more often by someone who put in a bid
higher than mine several hours or days earlier, and once because my
high bid didn't meet the seller's reserve price. All of these are
"fair" losses, to my mind... I simply wasn't willing to pay as much
for the item, as someone else felt that it was worth to him/her.

Those of you crying foul overhaving an item sniped out from under you...
"Too bad, so sad". You should have bid what you were willing to pay, and
made sure that amount was more than what I was willing to pay.

Right. And, eBay makes this point very explicitly in their FAQ.

eBay's auction style works to the advantage of the knowledgeable
buyer. It's similar to the old "auction by candle" style.

An auction system which keeps the auction open until bids stop
arriving tends to favor the seller, as it promotes real-time bidding
wars.

eBay may have made a very explicit decision *not* to use this auction
style, for any of several reasons. One might be that an auction
system which favors the seller, can end up with higher overall
winning-bid prices, which would then tend to eliminate any reputation
that the site has for being "a bargain place to buy." A lot of people
feel that eBay is a buyer's-bargain marketplace, even though (as
several people have noted) this often isn't the case.

And that's the long and short of it: You anti-sniping folks are crying
because you got something taken away from you by someone who knew what
they wanted, knew what it was worth to them, and wanted it worse than
you did. Get over it.

And, let's also note that using sniping works to the *dis*advantage
of a sniper who doesn't think his/her "maximum bid" value out very
carefully in advance. If you set your snipe time very close to the
limit (so that it's a true snipe and not just a last-minute bid), and
you don't exceed an earlier bidder's high limit, you have *no* time to
react and re-bid.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Wouter van Ooijen (www.vo]

Does anybody know if there are avaiable DIP headers whose pins are
closer in dimension to that of real IC pins?

I sell http://www.voti.nl/shop/p/DB-QPIN20.html, AFAIK these are quite
normal pin strips

If not, can you suggest
a workaround using more common parts? (I've already tried using IC
sockets, but the pins are much thinner and weaker and don't securely
plug into place, not to mention that there's no place on top to solder
wires and components).

Use round-pin (machined) IC sokets instead of the cheap (single/dual
wipe) version.


Wouter van Ooijen

-- ------------------------------------
http://www.voti.nl
PICmicro chips, programmers, consulting

 

[Mark (UK)]

Hi!

I make replacement PCBs for custom ICs on arcade game boards, like this one:

http://www.leopardcats.com/gatearray/gatearray.htm

and I use turned pin headers on that board:

http://www.leopardcats.com/gatearray/gaunder.jpg

They make an excellent contact to weak sockets, and don't ruin them, you
can easily put a DIP back in after that board has been in and out dozens
of times. The set of pins that plug into the socket are smaller than the
pins on the top side that solder to the other board.

The only down side to those is that they can be expensive, about 80p
(US$1.50) for a strip of 20 pins in the norm, unless you buy them in
large quantities.

Yours, Mark.

Herbert West wrote:

I need to fabricate adaptors for PLC packages and discrete parts to
fit standard DIP sockets. Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to
find suitable headers to use as pins for these adaptors.

The headers I've thus been able to find are based on strips of molex
type pins, and the pins are much "fatter" than true DIP device pins.
This usually bends the connectors in the socket so far out of shape
that they can never again make solid contact with the pins of a real
IC.

Does anybody know if there are avaiable DIP headers whose pins are
closer in dimension to that of real IC pins? If not, can you suggest
a workaround using more common parts? (I've already tried using IC
sockets, but the pins are much thinner and weaker and don't securely
plug into place, not to mention that there's no place on top to solder
wires and components).

I recall seeing DIP plugs for ribbon cable with teeth and a pressure
fitting cap. These should be suitable, as they were made to plug into
a standard DIP socket. I could simply discard the cap and solder
directly to the teeth. Alas, I cannot seem to find them in any
catalogue. I don't even know what to properly call them.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[Michael A. Covington]

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:LbNUc.8416$54.122899@typhoon.sonic.net...

Therefore, I figure out what I'm willing to pay when I find a listing
that interests me, then I sit back until a second or two before the end
of the auction, and drop that amount in as a bid. So far, I've never
paid more than I valued the item at, and have never been "out-sniped".

Those of you crying foul overhaving an item sniped out from under you...
"Too bad, so sad". You should have bid what you were willing to pay, and
made sure that amount was more than what I was willing to pay.

And that's the long and short of it: You anti-sniping folks are crying
because you got something taken away from you by someone who knew what
they wanted, knew what it was worth to them, and wanted it worse than
you did. Get over it.

Er... Can't we say the same to YOU? If you know what you're willing to pay,
why do you snipe? Why don't you do what you're telling us to do?