Soldering 550m of copper wire

[Goran]

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?


Regards !

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2013-06-19, Goran <goran.balajic@gmail.com> wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!

eg:
http://www.wesbellwireandcable.com/BareCopper/18awgTin.html
buy two 1000' (305m) rolls unless you need it to be continuous

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

"some time" is an understatement. This is wrong newsgroup for what is
essentially a industrial process.

--
⚂⚃ 100% natural

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[Michael Black]

On Wed, 19 Jun 2013, Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

The most obvious question is "why"?

You've asked in .basics so it may be that your logic about this is faulty.
You've not explained what this is about, simply want a solution, and from
experience here since before sci.electronics was split up into the current
subgroups, people often ask questions that are the wrong questions, since
they haven't started with the actual question.

I can't see why you need solder coated copper wire. I can see why you
might want it protected against tarnish, I can see why you might want to
make it easier to solder to, I can see why you might want it to keep hi Q
if this wire is used for winding coils, but all of that comes other ways,
not coating it in solder.

Michael

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron ) so
i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing and melt
the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to automatize the
whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?


Regards !

 

[Tom Biasi]

On 6/19/2013 1:09 PM, Michael Black wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jun 2013, Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

The most obvious question is "why"?

You've asked in .basics so it may be that your logic about this is
faulty. You've not explained what this is about, simply want a solution,
and from experience here since before sci.electronics was split up into
the current subgroups, people often ask questions that are the wrong
questions, since they haven't started with the actual question.

I can't see why you need solder coated copper wire. I can see why you
might want it protected against tarnish, I can see why you might want to
make it easier to solder to, I can see why you might want it to keep hi
Q if this wire is used for winding coils, but all of that comes other
ways, not coating it in solder.

Michael

Maybe a troll? He can buy tinned wire and he is talking about doing two
football fields of wire.

 

[Jamie]

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?


Regards !

I think it would be cheaper to get tinned copper wire ready made..

However, if you insist, a solder pot with a deep roller in it so you
can wrap the wire around it and pull.


Jamie

 

[Phil Allison]

"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!

** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.



.... Phil

 

[John Larkin]

On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 17:29:32 -0400, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?


Regards !

I think it would be cheaper to get tinned copper wire ready made..

However, if you insist, a solder pot with a deep roller in it so you
can wrap the wire around it and pull.


Jamie

Probably an acid bath first, to get the oxides off, then a flux dip. After the
solder bath, some stripper to remove the excess. A big deal.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation
Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators
Custom timing and laser controllers
Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links
VME analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer
Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators

 

[Goran]

On 06/20/2013 02:39 AM, Phil Allison wrote:

"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.

----------
Yes, as you mention it this are different things.
In this alloy i have to use 70 or more % of lead.

Solder pot and solder bath suggested by Jamie and John is the only
solution. The problem is that i dont know if this will work.
I can melt lead and put some tin in it to get the alloy but will this
alloy stick to wire ?

In general it should be no problem if the wire is oxides free...

 

[default]

On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:35:09 +0200, Goran <goran.balajic@gmail.com>
wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

Yes - did something similar with hot melt glue and ordinary magnet
wire.

But you'd have to watch out for corrosion or possibly run the wire
through a bath of flux before hitting the solder.

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?

Iron doesn't "take" solder well - or not with any flux I know of...

Zinc coated (galvanized) will work with flux. Not easily or well, but
it can be done.

Regards !
you too

 

[Goran]

On 06/20/2013 01:23 PM, default wrote:

On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:35:09 +0200, Goran <goran.balajic@gmail.com
wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

Yes - did something similar with hot melt glue and ordinary magnet
wire.

But you'd have to watch out for corrosion or possibly run the wire
through a bath of flux before hitting the solder.

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?

Iron doesn't "take" solder well - or not with any flux I know of...

Zinc coated (galvanized) will work with flux. Not easily or well, but
it can be done.

Regards !
you too

----------------

OK. Thank you !

 

[John Fields]

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:39:32 +1000, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.

---
True, but "tinned" copper wire isn't tin plated, it's coated with
solder.

--
JF

 

[Ian Field]

"Goran" <goran.balajic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:kpud3e$am1$1@l01news1.ot.hr...

On 06/20/2013 02:39 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.

----------
Yes, as you mention it this are different things.
In this alloy i have to use 70 or more % of lead.

Solder pot and solder bath suggested by Jamie and John is the only
solution. The problem is that i dont know if this will work.
I can melt lead and put some tin in it to get the alloy but will this
alloy stick to wire ?

About any wire you'd want to tin, will have an oxide layer and you need to
pre-treat with some kind of flux.

In the tinning process, your alloy doesn't "stick" to the wire - it alloys
to the wire surface.

As for iron wire - in my first year at college, the lecturer demonstrated a
little trick, first he snapped a thin iron rod and dipped the broken ends in
a bath of mercury - nothing happened. Next he snapped an iron rod while it
was submerged in the mercury bath - this time the mercury alloyed into the
broken ends.

The demonstration shows that exposed iron immediately forms an oxide layer -
I use *active* plumbers flux for stainless steel bicycle bowden cable, iron
may need even more aggressive flux than that!

 

[Ian Field]

"default" <none@noname.net> wrote in message
news:g9p5s8dt3698f3qg9cgv07jqa5i4f7ps6e@4ax.com...

On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:35:09 +0200, Goran <goran.balajic@gmail.com
wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

Yes - did something similar with hot melt glue and ordinary magnet
wire.

But you'd have to watch out for corrosion or possibly run the wire
through a bath of flux before hitting the solder.

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?

Iron doesn't "take" solder well - or not with any flux I know of...

There are some strong acids used in the building trade that seem to take
over where the strongest soldering fluxes leave off.

I had a gallon can of acid for darkening brickwork, unfortunately the can
got damaged laying around in the shed and I rescued the surviving contents
into a dishwash detergent bottle - so I don't have the product name or make.

The acid can also strip the iron plating off the soldering bit, so I use it
only when I have to and only with a heavily tinned bit.

 

[John Fields]

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 21:57:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"default" <none@noname.net> wrote in message
news:g9p5s8dt3698f3qg9cgv07jqa5i4f7ps6e@4ax.com...
On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:35:09 +0200, Goran <goran.balajic@gmail.com
wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

Yes - did something similar with hot melt glue and ordinary magnet
wire.

But you'd have to watch out for corrosion or possibly run the wire
through a bath of flux before hitting the solder.

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?

Iron doesn't "take" solder well - or not with any flux I know of...

There are some strong acids used in the building trade that seem to take
over where the strongest soldering fluxes leave off.

---
Which acid, then, would render a heated iron surface attractive to
lead
---

I had a gallon can of acid for darkening brickwork, unfortunately the can
got damaged laying around in the shed and I rescued the surviving contents
into a dishwash detergent bottle - so I don't have the product name or make.

---
Nor, then, since the can got damaged, can you name the constitution of
its surviving contents.

And you use that melange for electronic work?

Tsk, tsk, tsk.
---

The acid can also strip the iron plating off the soldering bit, so I use it
only when I have to and only with a heavily tinned bit.

---
If you have a heavily tinned bit and the acid reacts only against
iron, then how's the acid going to get to the iron?

--
JF

 

[Jamie]

John Fields wrote:

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 10:39:32 +1000, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au
wrote:


"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:


I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.



---
True, but "tinned" copper wire isn't tin plated, it's coated with
solder.

And then you have electroplate.

Jamie

 

[Michael Black]

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013, Ian Field wrote:

"Goran" <goran.balajic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:kpud3e$am1$1@l01news1.ot.hr...
On 06/20/2013 02:39 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.

----------
Yes, as you mention it this are different things.
In this alloy i have to use 70 or more % of lead.

Solder pot and solder bath suggested by Jamie and John is the only
solution. The problem is that i dont know if this will work.
I can melt lead and put some tin in it to get the alloy but will this alloy
stick to wire ?

About any wire you'd want to tin, will have an oxide layer and you need to
pre-treat with some kind of flux.

In the tinning process, your alloy doesn't "stick" to the wire - it alloys to
the wire surface.

As for iron wire - in my first year at college, the lecturer demonstrated a
little trick, first he snapped a thin iron rod and dipped the broken ends in
a bath of mercury - nothing happened. Next he snapped an iron rod while it
was submerged in the mercury bath - this time the mercury alloyed into the
broken ends.

The demonstration shows that exposed iron immediately forms an oxide layer -
I use *active* plumbers flux for stainless steel bicycle bowden cable, iron
may need even more aggressive flux than that!

That reminds me of all the debate in the amateur radio magazines about

soldering to aluminum. No it can't, yes it can. ANd then when it was
esplained, one I scheme I remember was "liberally apply oil to the
surface, scrape the surface under the oil, then start soldering" or
something like that. The oil keeping it from oxidizing, the scraping to
thet the existing oxidation off.

Michael

 

[Phil Allison]

"John Fields"
"Phil Allison"

"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.

---
True, but "tinned" copper wire isn't tin plated, it's coated with
solder.

** "Tinned copper wire" sold as solid wire on a reel is ** tin plated **.

Do try to follow the context - fuckhead.



.... Phil

 

[Ian Field]

"Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message
news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1306202302440.23715@darkstar.example.org...

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013, Ian Field wrote:



"Goran" <goran.balajic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:kpud3e$am1$1@l01news1.ot.hr...
On 06/20/2013 02:39 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
"Jasen Bleats"

Goran wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

step one: order 600m of tinned copper wire.

done!


** Err - tin plating and solder coating are different things.

----------
Yes, as you mention it this are different things.
In this alloy i have to use 70 or more % of lead.

Solder pot and solder bath suggested by Jamie and John is the only
solution. The problem is that i dont know if this will work.
I can melt lead and put some tin in it to get the alloy but will this
alloy stick to wire ?

About any wire you'd want to tin, will have an oxide layer and you need
to pre-treat with some kind of flux.

In the tinning process, your alloy doesn't "stick" to the wire - it
alloys to the wire surface.

As for iron wire - in my first year at college, the lecturer demonstrated
a little trick, first he snapped a thin iron rod and dipped the broken
ends in a bath of mercury - nothing happened. Next he snapped an iron rod
while it was submerged in the mercury bath - this time the mercury
alloyed into the broken ends.

The demonstration shows that exposed iron immediately forms an oxide
layer - I use *active* plumbers flux for stainless steel bicycle bowden
cable, iron may need even more aggressive flux than that!
That reminds me of all the debate in the amateur radio magazines about
soldering to aluminum. No it can't, yes it can. ANd then when it was
esplained, one I scheme I remember was "liberally apply oil to the
surface, scrape the surface under the oil, then start soldering" or
something like that. The oil keeping it from oxidizing, the scraping to
thet the existing oxidation off.

I've heard much the same thing - but if you can afford it, a roll of Alusol
is much easier.

A company I worked for made an ultrasonic solder dip for soldering
aluminium - allegedly didn't require any flux.

 

[Ian Field]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:mrs6s8hrc2kmfps4cc8t8bqv5hkqrqbahv@4ax.com...

On Thu, 20 Jun 2013 21:57:48 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:



"default" <none@noname.net> wrote in message
news:g9p5s8dt3698f3qg9cgv07jqa5i4f7ps6e@4ax.com...
On Wed, 19 Jun 2013 09:35:09 +0200, Goran <goran.balajic@gmail.com
wrote:

I have to solder 550 - 600m of 1mm copper wire.
Wire must be completely covered with solder.

It will take some time to do this on regular basis ( with soldering iron
) so i was thinking to make some kind of slot in some aluminium housing
and melt the lead alloy in it.

Then i can put the wire in it and draw it slowly throe this slot.
Additionally i can set some stepper motor on the other side to
automatize the whole process.

1.) Could this be done on this way ?

Yes - did something similar with hot melt glue and ordinary magnet
wire.

But you'd have to watch out for corrosion or possibly run the wire
through a bath of flux before hitting the solder.

2.) Would this work with iron wire ?

Iron doesn't "take" solder well - or not with any flux I know of...

There are some strong acids used in the building trade that seem to take
over where the strongest soldering fluxes leave off.

---
Which acid, then, would render a heated iron surface attractive to
lead
---

I had a gallon can of acid for darkening brickwork, unfortunately the can
got damaged laying around in the shed and I rescued the surviving contents
into a dishwash detergent bottle - so I don't have the product name or
make.

---
Nor, then, since the can got damaged, can you name the constitution of
its surviving contents.

And you use that melange for electronic work?

Tsk, tsk, tsk.
---

The acid can also strip the iron plating off the soldering bit, so I use
it
only when I have to and only with a heavily tinned bit.

---
If you have a heavily tinned bit and the acid reacts only against
iron, then how's the acid going to get to the iron?

As usual your question is based on flawed premise and ignorant of context.

 

[George Herold]

On Thursday, June 20, 2013 4:05:02 AM UTC-4, Goran wrote:

On 06/20/2013 02:39 AM, Phil Allison wrote:

"Jasen Bleats"
snip 'cos of f'ing google chrome.

Yes, as you mention it this are different things.

In this alloy i have to use 70 or more % of lead.


Solder pot and solder bath suggested by Jamie and John is the only

solution. The problem is that i dont know if this will work.

I can melt lead and put some tin in it to get the alloy but will this

alloy stick to wire ?

In general it should be no problem if the wire is oxides free...

This sounds like a real PITA. What is the purpose? (Maybe there is some other solution?) Once you get away from the eutectic mix of tin and lead the solder has this temperature range where it's not really solid or liquid.. but this weird mixture, I have no idea what happens when you try and coat a wire with it.

You might try a post on the rec.crafts.metalworking. Lots of political 'junk', but just ignore that.

George H.