Soda Maker: How long does it take carbon dioxide to diffuse

On Tuesday, September 12, 2017 at 10:49:16 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 12 Sep 2017 10:57:11 -0700 (PDT), ggherold@gmail.com wrote:

Hmm and yet I feel we are fighting in a 'security screw'
arms race.

What? You don't feel more secure with security screws in place? Just
think of all the bad things that can happen to the company if one of
their screws is not properly secured. Obviously, something must be
done to prevent screws from "accidentally" falling out.

I've got my ~100 piece set from harbor freight,
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-pc-security-bit-set-with-case-68457.html

I have two of the same kits. Far too many duplicate bits.

When I went to take apart my latest coffee maker,

Latest? I deduce that your coffee makers are exhibiting a rather
short half life. Have you considered buying something more durable?
Oh wait... I forgot that you can no longer buy quality appliances at
any price. Never mind.

I found that the
tripoint screw was down a long narrow tunnel, such that the screw driver
bit holder was to wide to fit. Curses!

Yeah, that's a common problem. I have a few assorted long round shank
screwdrivers that have been modified on my bench grinder and Dremel
tool to fit various security screws. If I'm desperate, I'll cut off
the top, and braze it to a steel rod. If you're lazy, take a Dremel
cutoff disk and cut a notch in the base of the bit to fit an
screwdriver blade.

Oh, that's a good idea! I was thinking we/they need to market
a bit set that also has a hex shaped indentation on the back side
so that you could drive it with an Allen wrench.

Perhaps this set of extra long security bits?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/263093504682
Right, the arms race continues.

George H.

Fortunately I fixed the no hot water problem, by running vinegar through
the machine several times. But still it does not bode well for future
failures.

As long as there is lime (calcium carbonate and oxide) dissolved in
your coffee water, you're going to have the problem. The trick is to
clean the coffee maker BEFORE it totally clogs and won't pass any
vinegar. Unless you like drinking distilled water (it tastes "flat")
or you buy a water softener, you're stuck with an occasional vinegar
flush.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 05:18:44 -0700 (PDT), ggherold@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, September 12, 2017 at 10:49:16 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 12 Sep 2017 10:57:11 -0700 (PDT), ggherold@gmail.com wrote:
Yeah, that's a common problem. I have a few assorted long round shank
screwdrivers that have been modified on my bench grinder and Dremel
tool to fit various security screws. If I'm desperate, I'll cut off
the top, and braze it to a steel rod. If you're lazy, take a Dremel
cutoff disk and cut a notch in the base of the bit to fit an
screwdriver blade.

Oh, that's a good idea! I was thinking we/they need to market
a bit set that also has a hex shaped indentation on the back side
so that you could drive it with an Allen wrench.

Perhaps this set of extra long security bits?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/263093504682

Right, the arms race continues.

In a previous life, I had to deal with security screws, which were
required by a few customers and creative spec writers. There is an
amazing amount of creativity possible.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=security+screw+heads&source=lnms&tbm=isch>
<https://xkcd.com/1474/>

I thought I was being clever when I specified these fasteners:
<https://www.dhresource.com/600x600/f2/albu/g4/M01/1F/C0/rBVaEVekSsSADmOTAADlLkJHrKg618.jpg>
but ran into problems when someone shipped the radio to an Arab
country.

Google gets my pure evil award for specifying fasteners that use a
friction driver on their Google-Mini server:
<http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/it/googlemini_final/ethernet.jpg>
<http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/it/googlemini_final/screw.jpg>
A screw extractor in the hole didn't work because the stainless steel
fasteners are hardened and it would slip. I would normally slot the
head with a Dremel cutoff tool, but the customer wanted everything
back to stock just in case Google would honor the warranty.
Eventually, they did after all the electrolytics started to bulge and
leak. I had to make a special tool, using a rubber bicycle inner tube
for friction, in order to remove the screws, after about 2 hrs of
trial, error, and swearing.

I won't mention Apple and their Pentalobe screw heads. I think that
the drivers were available on eBay before the iPhone 4 was released,
which probably inspired Apple to now glue its products together.

I also run into security screws on bicycles. I would hate to find
some of these odd pattern fasteners and not have a matching driver:
<http://atomic22.com>
<http://www.torontocycles.com/Titanium_Security_Bolts.html>


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <rllircpppd7dpgs7prftp00nqhlo6nleig@4ax.com>,
jeffl@cruzio.com says...

In a previous life, I had to deal with security screws, which were
required by a few customers and creative spec writers. There is an
amazing amount of creativity possible.
https://www.google.com/search?q=security+screw+heads&source=lnms&tbm=isch
https://xkcd.com/1474/

I thought I was being clever when I specified these fasteners:
https://www.dhresource.com/600x600/f2/albu/g4/M01/1F/C0/rBVaEVekSsSADmOTAADlLkJHrKg618.jpg
but ran into problems when someone shipped the radio to an Arab
country.

Google gets my pure evil award for specifying fasteners that use a
friction driver on their Google-Mini server:
http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/it/googlemini_final/ethernet.jpg
http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/it/googlemini_final/screw.jpg
A screw extractor in the hole didn't work because the stainless steel
fasteners are hardened and it would slip. I would normally slot the
head with a Dremel cutoff tool, but the customer wanted everything
back to stock just in case Google would honor the warranty.
Eventually, they did after all the electrolytics started to bulge and
leak. I had to make a special tool, using a rubber bicycle inner tube
for friction, in order to remove the screws, after about 2 hrs of
trial, error, and swearing.

I won't mention Apple and their Pentalobe screw heads. I think that
the drivers were available on eBay before the iPhone 4 was released,
which probably inspired Apple to now glue its products together.

I also run into security screws on bicycles. I would hate to find
some of these odd pattern fasteners and not have a matching driver:
http://atomic22.com
http://www.torontocycles.com/Titanium_Security_Bolts.html

I hate all the 'special' screw heads just to try and keep
people from turning them. I have several chain saws ,leaf
blowers, and other small engines that each one takes a
special tool just to adjust the carborator. Seems like
there are 5 or more special tools just to adjust the
carborators. One company does not offer their tool to
anyone but their service companies. I had to take my
Dremal tool and cut a slot in the head so a regular screw
driver would fit.

Those spcial tools only slow down people and do nt seem to
stop anyone.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 13:02:20 -0400, Ralph Mowery
<rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

I hate all the 'special' screw heads just to try and keep
people from turning them. I have several chain saws ,leaf
blowers, and other small engines that each one takes a
special tool just to adjust the carborator. Seems like
there are 5 or more special tools just to adjust the
carborators. One company does not offer their tool to
anyone but their service companies. I had to take my
Dremal tool and cut a slot in the head so a regular screw
driver would fit.

Those spcial tools only slow down people and do nt seem to
stop anyone.

Yep, that's pretty much the way things work. To protect the
environment from smog produced by chain saws, carburetors are to be
adjusted only by factory authorized experts, or by anyone with an eBay
account:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pk-Screwdriver-Splined-Carb-Carburetor-Adjustment-Chainsaw-Tools-Kit-Repair-Set-/142506605139>
I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Incidentally, I was just taking a break from chewing up some lumber
scrap with my nice new Stihl MS180 chain saw. The only user
accessible carburetor adjustment is the idle speed. No problem with a
new saw, but if I ever rebuild the carburetor, I'll surely need to
adjust the low and high speed screws.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 13:02:20 -0400, Ralph Mowery
rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

I hate all the 'special' screw heads just to try and keep
people from turning them. I have several chain saws ,leaf
blowers, and other small engines that each one takes a
special tool just to adjust the carborator. Seems like
there are 5 or more special tools just to adjust the
carborators. One company does not offer their tool to
anyone but their service companies. I had to take my
Dremal tool and cut a slot in the head so a regular screw
driver would fit.

Those spcial tools only slow down people and do nt seem to
stop anyone.

Yep, that's pretty much the way things work. To protect the
environment from smog produced by chain saws, carburetors are to be
adjusted only by factory authorized experts, or by anyone with an eBay
account:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pk-Screwdriver-Splined-Carb-Carburetor-Adjustment-Chainsaw-Tools-Kit-Repair-Set-/142506605139
I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Incidentally, I was just taking a break from chewing up some lumber
scrap with my nice new Stihl MS180 chain saw. The only user
accessible carburetor adjustment is the idle speed. No problem with a
new saw, but if I ever rebuild the carburetor, I'll surely need to
adjust the low and high speed screws.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

I've got an old Stihl chainsaw. It's got two adjustment screws, I've
only tweaked the one. Dang nice tool!

George H.

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.

https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 17:20:02 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Wed, 13 Sep 2017 13:02:20 -0400, Ralph Mowery
rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

I hate all the 'special' screw heads just to try and keep
people from turning them. I have several chain saws ,leaf
blowers, and other small engines that each one takes a
special tool just to adjust the carborator. Seems like
there are 5 or more special tools just to adjust the
carborators. One company does not offer their tool to
anyone but their service companies. I had to take my
Dremal tool and cut a slot in the head so a regular screw
driver would fit.

Those spcial tools only slow down people and do nt seem to
stop anyone.

Yep, that's pretty much the way things work. To protect the
environment from smog produced by chain saws, carburetors are to be
adjusted only by factory authorized experts, or by anyone with an eBay
account:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pk-Screwdriver-Splined-Carb-Carburetor-Adjustment-Chainsaw-Tools-Kit-Repair-Set-/142506605139
I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Incidentally, I was just taking a break from chewing up some lumber
scrap with my nice new Stihl MS180 chain saw. The only user
accessible carburetor adjustment is the idle speed. No problem with a
new saw, but if I ever rebuild the carburetor, I'll surely need to
adjust the low and high speed screws.

Greetings Jeff,
Does your new saw have the wind up starting feature? Several years
ago I bought a new Stihl MS180 C that has this feature and the no
tools required chain tensioning and bar removal system. I bought the
saw manily for the wind up starting because of bad arthritis in both
wrists.
I love the saw. It still starts easy and changing chains and
cleaning the sawdust out is super easy. I think Stihl is now making a
larger saw with the same features and I need to go shopping to see.
The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.
Eric

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
<pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.

https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I'm still having a hard time believing it.
The web site mentioned in the press release:
<http://www.insideline.com>
has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able
to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under
"research". However, the video is still on YouTube:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs>
Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and
details.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 12:42:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.

https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I'm still having a hard time believing it.
The web site mentioned in the press release:
http://www.insideline.com
has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able
to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under
"research". However, the video is still on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs
Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and
details.

Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons
of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car.

George H.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 08:48:43 -0700, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

>Does your new saw have the wind up starting feature?

No. Mine is just the MS180 with no extras:
<https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180/>
There's also the MS180C-BE which has the Easy2Start and the "Quick
Chain Adjust" features:
<https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180cbe/>
I don't see the MS180C on the product list any more.

Several years
ago I bought a new Stihl MS180 C that has this feature and the no
tools required chain tensioning and bar removal system. I bought the
saw manily for the wind up starting because of bad arthritis in both
wrists.

Good reason. I kinda wish I had that for a rather dumb reason. The
rear handle (the one with the trigger) is too small to fit my steel
toe shoes. There's no place to stand on the handle while starting.
The right side of the handle has a knuckle guard that will fit my
shoe, but that means I have to start it left handed. For now, I put a
length of 2x4 through the handle and stand on it when starting, but
that's going to get old rather quickly.

So far, I really like the MS180. It's very light and cuts fast. Power
is acceptable, but I'm having difficulties learning how to start it
properly. Maybe I should read the manual. I wonder if the Ez2Start
device can be added to the MS180.

This is my first Stihl saw. My others are a motley assortment of
Husquvarna, Homelite, McCullogh, junk, etc.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/index.html>
I have about twice as many saws now.

I love the saw. It still starts easy and changing chains and
cleaning the sawdust out is super easy. I think Stihl is now making a
larger saw with the same features and I need to go shopping to see.

In the "Homeowner" series:
<https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms181cbe/>
<https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms211cbe/>
<https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251cbe/>
Plenty of others in other series. Just look for the C-E suffix.

The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

Yech. I do that a little differently. I have a spare bar oil cap
with a hose barb screwed and glued into the middle. I attach a vinyl
hose to the barb, with the other end to my air compressor. 30 psi
will usually be sufficient to blow out any sawdust and oil mix. That
happens if I store the saw for a few month, and the bar oil turns to
tar. You might look into trying a different brand of bar oil.

I still have about 1/4 cord of firewood from last year. The problem
is that it's all 18" long and my wood burner will only take 16".
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/wood-burner.html>
It's going to be a very noisy and tiring weekend.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 1:15:41 AM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 08:48:43 -0700, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

Does your new saw have the wind up starting feature?

No. Mine is just the MS180 with no extras:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180/
There's also the MS180C-BE which has the Easy2Start and the "Quick
Chain Adjust" features:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180cbe/
I don't see the MS180C on the product list any more.

Several years
ago I bought a new Stihl MS180 C that has this feature and the no
tools required chain tensioning and bar removal system. I bought the
saw manily for the wind up starting because of bad arthritis in both
wrists.

Good reason. I kinda wish I had that for a rather dumb reason. The
rear handle (the one with the trigger) is too small to fit my steel
toe shoes. There's no place to stand on the handle while starting.
The right side of the handle has a knuckle guard that will fit my
shoe, but that means I have to start it left handed. For now, I put a
length of 2x4 through the handle and stand on it when starting, but
that's going to get old rather quickly.

So far, I really like the MS180. It's very light and cuts fast. Power
is acceptable, but I'm having difficulties learning how to start it
properly. Maybe I should read the manual. I wonder if the Ez2Start
device can be added to the MS180.

My (older) Stihl takes six pulls to start. Every time.
(Well not once it's been running.)

George h.

This is my first Stihl saw. My others are a motley assortment of
Husquvarna, Homelite, McCullogh, junk, etc.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/index.html
I have about twice as many saws now.

I love the saw. It still starts easy and changing chains and
cleaning the sawdust out is super easy. I think Stihl is now making a
larger saw with the same features and I need to go shopping to see.

In the "Homeowner" series:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms181cbe/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms211cbe/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251cbe/
Plenty of others in other series. Just look for the C-E suffix.

The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

Yech. I do that a little differently. I have a spare bar oil cap
with a hose barb screwed and glued into the middle. I attach a vinyl
hose to the barb, with the other end to my air compressor. 30 psi
will usually be sufficient to blow out any sawdust and oil mix. That
happens if I store the saw for a few month, and the bar oil turns to
tar. You might look into trying a different brand of bar oil.

I still have about 1/4 cord of firewood from last year. The problem
is that it's all 18" long and my wood burner will only take 16".
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/wood-burner.html
It's going to be a very noisy and tiring weekend.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 22:15:40 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 08:48:43 -0700, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

Does your new saw have the wind up starting feature?

No. Mine is just the MS180 with no extras:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180/
There's also the MS180C-BE which has the Easy2Start and the "Quick
Chain Adjust" features:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms180cbe/
I don't see the MS180C on the product list any more.

Several years
ago I bought a new Stihl MS180 C that has this feature and the no
tools required chain tensioning and bar removal system. I bought the
saw manily for the wind up starting because of bad arthritis in both
wrists.

Good reason. I kinda wish I had that for a rather dumb reason. The
rear handle (the one with the trigger) is too small to fit my steel
toe shoes. There's no place to stand on the handle while starting.
The right side of the handle has a knuckle guard that will fit my
shoe, but that means I have to start it left handed. For now, I put a
length of 2x4 through the handle and stand on it when starting, but
that's going to get old rather quickly.

So far, I really like the MS180. It's very light and cuts fast. Power
is acceptable, but I'm having difficulties learning how to start it
properly. Maybe I should read the manual. I wonder if the Ez2Start
device can be added to the MS180.

This is my first Stihl saw. My others are a motley assortment of
Husquvarna, Homelite, McCullogh, junk, etc.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/index.html
I have about twice as many saws now.

I love the saw. It still starts easy and changing chains and
cleaning the sawdust out is super easy. I think Stihl is now making a
larger saw with the same features and I need to go shopping to see.

In the "Homeowner" series:
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms181cbe/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms211cbe/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251cbe/
Plenty of others in other series. Just look for the C-E suffix.

The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

Yech. I do that a little differently. I have a spare bar oil cap
with a hose barb screwed and glued into the middle. I attach a vinyl
hose to the barb, with the other end to my air compressor. 30 psi
will usually be sufficient to blow out any sawdust and oil mix. That
happens if I store the saw for a few month, and the bar oil turns to
tar. You might look into trying a different brand of bar oil.

I still have about 1/4 cord of firewood from last year. The problem
is that it's all 18" long and my wood burner will only take 16".
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/wood-burner.html
It's going to be a very noisy and tiring weekend.

My saw must be the -BE model. It just has 180C printed on the starter
cover. I am pretty sure the Ez2Start assembly can be added to your
saw. It looks like you just swap the starter cover without the EZ
start with the EZ start caover assembly. Starting the saw is kinda
strange. You just pull the starter handle slowly and when it has wound
up enough it turns the engine over. So it takes a little getting used
to. But I love it. Both of my wrists are bone on bone joints now so
stuff like starting high compression engines is hard on them. But I
also live on 10 wooded acres and need to saw stuff up, like when a
tree blows down and blocks the driveway.
Eric

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 12:11:02 -0700 (PDT), ggherold@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 12:42:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.

https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I'm still having a hard time believing it.
The web site mentioned in the press release:
http://www.insideline.com
has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able
to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under
"research". However, the video is still on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs
Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and
details.

Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons
of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car.
George H.

The video claims that a Ryobi leaf blower belches pollutants at about
8 times the rate of the automobile. That's serious. I can't verify
the method used, but I do know something about garden equipment. Ryobi
is near last in terms of quality. I would be a bit less skeptical if
they had used name brand equipment for the comparison.

"Regulations for Emissions from Small Equipment & Tools" (EPA)
<https://www.epa.gov/regulations-emissions-vehicles-and-engines/regulations-emissions-small-equipment-tools>

"National Emissions from Lawn and Garden Equipment"
<https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2015-09/documents/banks.pdf>

"California Weighs Tougher Emissions Rules For Gas-Powered Garden
Equipment" (Feb 2017)
<http://www.npr.org/2017/02/28/517576431/california-weighs-tougher-emissions-rules-for-gas-powered-garden-equipment>

I've discussed the situation with the local saw shop mechanic. He
attends the various factory training seminars where emissions issues
are discussed. He claims that if the feds or California enact any of
the proposed emission standards, most everything sold (except very
small engines) will need to switch to 4 cycle engines to comply. Part
of the logic is to make the standards 10x more stringent that required
on the assumption that in the field, emissions will increase with the
age of the machine. Husqvarna has delayed switching to 4 stroke with
their X-Torq engine, which offers a substantial reduction in
emissions, but not enough to meet the proposed standards.
<http://www.husqvarna.com/int/international-microsite/about-husqvarna/environmental-responsibility/>
He also notes that battery powered tools are a slick way around the
emissions problems. I've been thinking of converting an AC powered
electric chain saw to running on battery power. Yet another projet.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[rickman]

ggherold@gmail.com wrote on 9/14/2017 3:11 PM:

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 12:42:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.

https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I'm still having a hard time believing it.
The web site mentioned in the press release:
http://www.insideline.com
has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able
to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under
"research". However, the video is still on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs
Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and
details.

Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons
of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car.

Sounds about right. That shows you how much they've cleaned up auto
exhaust. It also shows how dirty 2-cycle engines are to start with.

--

Rick C

Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998

 

[rickman]

etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/14/2017 11:48 AM:

The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked? I had a saw and was never
sure, so I'd stop it periodically and lube the bar. I only used it once in
a blue moon so rather than deal with the hassles I gave it to a friend. Now
he doesn't want me to borrow it, lol.

--

Rick C

Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998

 

[malua mada!]

Starting my Stihl(s)...
Deep breath,
lift the saw to about chest height, then yank up with the left while *dropping* the saw with the right, for added speed. Starting with the saw stationary is harder for me.

About a year ago I bought me a MSA 160c which is a battery powered saw (now superseded I think) and OH! While pricey as hell & small it is competent and pleasant to work with. Doesn't stink. Starts as long as there is charge in the pack. No noise unless it is doing work. My most used saw now.
It starts with the pull of its trigger

 

On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 12:01:17 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 12:11:02 -0700 (PDT), ggherold@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 12:42:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 06:46:01 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 8:20:07 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I find it hard that the accumulated smog output from small engines
would be significant, especially when compared to automobiles,
industrial output, and bovine flatulence, but so it is written into
the law.

Not so much chain-saws as two-stroke engines in general.

https://www.edmunds.com/about/press/leaf-blowers-emissions-dirtier-than-high-performance-pick-up-trucks-says-edmunds-insidelinecom.html

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I'm still having a hard time believing it.
The web site mentioned in the press release:
http://www.insideline.com
has disappeared and is being redirected to edmunds.com. I wasn't able
to find the actual report. Nothing on the Edmunds site under
"research". However, the video is still on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDxQIHoTmxs
Seems to be for real, but I still would like to see the numbers and
details.

Interesting, I will observe that I put two or three gallons
of gas through my chain saw in a year. And about 500 through my car.
George H.

The video claims that a Ryobi leaf blower belches pollutants at about
8 times the rate of the automobile. That's serious. I can't verify
the method used, but I do know something about garden equipment. Ryobi
is near last in terms of quality. I would be a bit less skeptical if
they had used name brand equipment for the comparison.

"Regulations for Emissions from Small Equipment & Tools" (EPA)
https://www.epa.gov/regulations-emissions-vehicles-and-engines/regulations-emissions-small-equipment-tools

"National Emissions from Lawn and Garden Equipment"
https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2015-09/documents/banks.pdf

"California Weighs Tougher Emissions Rules For Gas-Powered Garden
Equipment" (Feb 2017)
http://www.npr.org/2017/02/28/517576431/california-weighs-tougher-emissions-rules-for-gas-powered-garden-equipment

I've discussed the situation with the local saw shop mechanic. He
attends the various factory training seminars where emissions issues
are discussed. He claims that if the feds or California enact any of
the proposed emission standards, most everything sold (except very
small engines) will need to switch to 4 cycle engines to comply. Part
of the logic is to make the standards 10x more stringent that required
on the assumption that in the field, emissions will increase with the
age of the machine. Husqvarna has delayed switching to 4 stroke with
their X-Torq engine, which offers a substantial reduction in
emissions, but not enough to meet the proposed standards.
http://www.husqvarna.com/int/international-microsite/about-husqvarna/environmental-responsibility/
He also notes that battery powered tools are a slick way around the
emissions problems. I've been thinking of converting an AC powered
electric chain saw to running on battery power. Yet another projet.

Battery powered is certainly an option. I've got a few mikita
battery powered tools. The wife couldn't use the chain saw but wanted
to trim up small stuff.. (say a max of ~4" diameter.) I bought her a
makita battery powered chain saw*. Now even I use. It's lighter and
only runs when your are cutting something. I

George H.
*as a birthday present.. I know I'm a bit of a stinker buying tools
for the wife for her birthday, but in my defense she really likes it!
And the trails through our woods are well manicured.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 2:41:36 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/14/2017 11:48 AM:
The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked?
You blow through a tank of gas and the oil reservoir is still full.

GH
I had a saw and was never

sure, so I'd stop it periodically and lube the bar. I only used it once in
a blue moon so rather than deal with the hassles I gave it to a friend. Now
he doesn't want me to borrow it, lol.

--

Rick C

Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998

 

[rickman]

ggherold@gmail.com wrote on 9/15/2017 3:25 PM:

On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 2:41:36 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/14/2017 11:48 AM:
The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked?
You blow through a tank of gas and the oil reservoir is still full.

There's a problem. I would never fill the oil reservoir because I would
never use it enough to empty it and it would leak everywhere the saw sat.

When you cleaned the oiler by filling with gas and dumping it, where did you
dump it? That was my other problem, emptying the tank when I was done with
it for the year or two...

--

Rick C

Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998

 

On Fri, 15 Sep 2017 14:41:31 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/14/2017 11:48 AM:
The only problem with the saw was when the oiler stopped working. I
called the local Stihl dealer for advice and he said to pour out the
bar oil, replace with fuel mix, run the saw without the bar attached
until the fuel mix starts coming out, and the dump the fuel and
replace with bar oil. His advice was good.

How do you tell when the bar lube is blocked? I had a saw and was never
sure, so I'd stop it periodically and lube the bar. I only used it once in
a blue moon so rather than deal with the hassles I gave it to a friend. Now
he doesn't want me to borrow it, lol.

One pretty good indication is when the saw runs out of fuel and the
bar oil tank is still almost full. The saw is designed to use fuel a
little faster than bar oil. I imagine all modern chain saws are
designed this way. So when the saw runs out of gas both the fuel tank
and the bar oil get filled. Another indication of lack of bar oil is
that the bar will get hot and you will see sap on the bar starting to
brown or even smoke.
Eric