SMD desoldering tutorial?

[DaveC]

I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,
--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

 

[Tim H.]

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net...

I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips.
Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

The absolute best and cheapest way (in my opinion) to desolder SMD chips is
to use Chip-Quik. The "solder" they use has a VERY low melting point. Even
after 30 seconds or so, it's still in a molten state which allows you to
just pick up the chip with your hands.

More info here:

http://www.chipquikinc.com/

-Tim

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of
it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,
--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

 

[cpemma]

DaveC wrote:

I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM
chips. Is there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go
about this?

Some fairly in-depth stuff at http://www.circuittechctr.com/guides/8-0.shtml
--
Correct address is cpemma at mexbro dot co dot uk

 

[maxfoo]

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 2:30:51 -0800, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,

The following instructions will work for removing smd chips.

1.) Take an oven tray and cover with aluminum foil, place board on foil.
2.) Set oven to 300-350 degrees F. depends on solder type used.
3.) Place tray in oven for approx. 10-15 minutes
4.) Open oven door, grab a pair of tweezers and try lifting component. If
component does not lift close oven door and try again every 2-3 minutes until
successful.


That's it ...cheap too!



Remove "HeadFromButt", before replying by email.

 

In article <0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...

I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,

The author of that page - Eduardo Barcellos - should consider giving
proper credit to the original source of his idea
(www.usbmicro.com/odn/index.html). He presents the hot-air idea as if it
were his own.

It is an unfortunate trend that students steal ideas from the internet
and boldly present the information without due credit. A whole
generation of people without morals would be the downfall of society.

 

In article <MPG.1a6205647fbe38e1989692@news.starband.net>,
nobody@nowhere.com says...

In article <0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...
I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,


The author of that page - Eduardo Barcellos - should consider giving
proper credit to the original source of his idea
(www.usbmicro.com/odn/index.html). He presents the hot-air idea as if it
were his own.

I forgot to mention to scroll down to the "Hot Ait Pencil" note.

It is an unfortunate trend that students steal ideas from the internet
and boldly present the information without due credit. A whole
generation of people without morals would be the downfall of society.

 

[Sunny]

DaveC wrote:

I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

Given your requirement is to avoid damage to the SMD components, I
assume you need to re-use them?

As Tim H. posted, Chipquik is ideal for SMD removal by hand as it allows
you to reflow solder at temperatures low enough to avoid heat damage to
the board or component - the tricky part is removing and cleaning the
component without bending any pins. Most of the SMD rework information
available assumes devices will be discarded after removal.

I use the stainless steel strips orthodontists wrap around teeth. Coat
the pins with copious amounts of paste flux and reflow the solder with
Chipquik. The lowest temperature setting on my soldering station is
~325F, hotter than required but not hot enough to cause damage. Be
generous with the Chipquik as this will make it easier to maintain
molten material on all pins simultaneously. When the device is ready to
lift, it will be floating in a puddle of flux and solder, now you can
slide the stainless strip between the board and device to pick it up.
Warming the board from the underside with a hair dryer while working
facilitates the process. Where possible, slide the stainless strip under
the device body first, then keep it parrallel to the row of pins as you
move it under them to avoid bending. QFP devices are more difficult as
there's no 'pinless' side from which to access the underside of the
body, but trimming the stainless strip to a tapered point and starting
at one corner works reasonably well - the key is to make sure the device
is floating and avoid any sideways pressure on the pins. The stainless
strip method has the advantage of leaving the site much cleaner than
simply lifting the device with tweezers, so I use it when removing dead
devices too.

The freshly removed device will be somewhat protected by a coating of
Chipquik bridging all the pins, but still must be handled carefully.
Next you need a clamp capable of holding the device body while leaving
the pins accessible - mine came from the orthodontist. Hold the clamp at
an angle to the edge of the workbench, reflow the Chipquik with the iron
and tap the clamp against the edge of the bench to flick the pins clean.
Results are best if you can flick all the material off a row of pins in
one shot, so allow time for complete reflow before tapping the clamp.
The Chipquik can be collected and re-used several times.

HTH

Sunny

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,

 

[Si Ballenger]

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 17:04:36 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

In article <0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...
I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,


The author of that page - Eduardo Barcellos - should consider giving
proper credit to the original source of his idea
(www.usbmicro.com/odn/index.html). He presents the hot-air idea as if it
were his own.

It is an unfortunate trend that students steal ideas from the internet
and boldly present the information without due credit. A whole
generation of people without morals would be the downfall of society.

So where did usbmicro get the idea? I'm supprised they don't
include a small aquarium air flow valve so the air flow through
the tubing can be adjusted for optimum air heating.

 

In article <3ff857d2.95407288@news.comporium.net>,
shb*NO*SPAM*@comporium.net says...

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 17:04:36 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

In article <0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...
I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,


The author of that page - Eduardo Barcellos - should consider giving
proper credit to the original source of his idea
(www.usbmicro.com/odn/index.html). He presents the hot-air idea as if it
were his own.

It is an unfortunate trend that students steal ideas from the internet
and boldly present the information without due credit. A whole
generation of people without morals would be the downfall of society.

So where did usbmicro get the idea? I'm supprised they don't
include a small aquarium air flow valve so the air flow through
the tubing can be adjusted for optimum air heating.

USBmicro originated the idea - at least this specific combination of
iron, fish pump, and stuffed steel wool. The PIClist mailing list
archives have messages about this from early 2001. If this student were
to indicate that he found the idea from somewhere on the internet, that
would be a step toward honesty. But he just copied from a source without
crediting that source.

The students text reads like the idea process was his. The entire text
is sprinkled with "I"'s. Part of the student text is:

[Student]
Go to the nearest Radio Shack store and get the Desoldering Iron for
$9.99 (Part #64-2060B). Then remove the red pump from it, and add an
aquarium tube in place. Use a match to help enlarging the diameter of
the tip of the aquarium tube so it can fit the iron.

The original text is:
[USBmicro]
I purchased a RadioShackŽ 45-watt desoldering iron (64-2060) for $9.99
(USD) and removed the vacuum bulb. I then attached the air pump (about
$8.00) tube to the location that the bulb had occupied. I needed to melt
the end of the tube slightly to get it to fit over the end of the metal
tube.

The plagiarism is obvious.

I sure would not want to be an employer with an employee like this.
Ethics (or lack of) may not be taught at his university. Or perhaps it
is just a personal thing for him. It'll catch up with him.

The valve idea was also explored by the people involved in the
discussion, although this may not have been in public emails.

 

[DaveC]

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:14:44 -0800, Sunny wrote
(in message <nJYJb.736$D21.231493@news20.bellglobal.com&gt:

As Tim H. posted, Chipquik is ideal for SMD removal by hand as it allows
you to reflow solder at temperatures low enough to avoid heat damage to
the board or component - the tricky part is removing and cleaning the
component without bending any pins. Most of the SMD rework information
available assumes devices will be discarded after removal.

Is your brother-in-law a dentist? Where do you get the stainless steel
strips? Is there a supplier you use? Or do you just ask your personal
dentist?

Great ideas. Never having done this before, you have alerted me to some
issues I need to be cautious about.

Thanks,
--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

 

[maxfoo]

So let the guy know he's a plagiarist, his email is contact@nanosistemas.com



On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:56:09 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

In article <3ff857d2.95407288@news.comporium.net>,
shb*NO*SPAM*@comporium.net says...
On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 17:04:36 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

In article <0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...
I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,


The author of that page - Eduardo Barcellos - should consider giving
proper credit to the original source of his idea
(www.usbmicro.com/odn/index.html). He presents the hot-air idea as if it
were his own.

It is an unfortunate trend that students steal ideas from the internet
and boldly present the information without due credit. A whole
generation of people without morals would be the downfall of society.

So where did usbmicro get the idea? I'm supprised they don't
include a small aquarium air flow valve so the air flow through
the tubing can be adjusted for optimum air heating.

USBmicro originated the idea - at least this specific combination of
iron, fish pump, and stuffed steel wool. The PIClist mailing list
archives have messages about this from early 2001. If this student were
to indicate that he found the idea from somewhere on the internet, that
would be a step toward honesty. But he just copied from a source without
crediting that source.

The students text reads like the idea process was his. The entire text
is sprinkled with "I"'s. Part of the student text is:

[Student]
Go to the nearest Radio Shack store and get the Desoldering Iron for
$9.99 (Part #64-2060B). Then remove the red pump from it, and add an
aquarium tube in place. Use a match to help enlarging the diameter of
the tip of the aquarium tube so it can fit the iron.

The original text is:
[USBmicro]
I purchased a RadioShackŽ 45-watt desoldering iron (64-2060) for $9.99
(USD) and removed the vacuum bulb. I then attached the air pump (about
$8.00) tube to the location that the bulb had occupied. I needed to melt
the end of the tube slightly to get it to fit over the end of the metal
tube.

The plagiarism is obvious.

I sure would not want to be an employer with an employee like this.
Ethics (or lack of) may not be taught at his university. Or perhaps it
is just a personal thing for him. It'll catch up with him.

The valve idea was also explored by the people involved in the
discussion, although this may not have been in public emails.

Remove "HeadFromButt", before replying by email.

 

[DarkMatter]

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 15:31:10 GMT, maxfoo
<maxfooHeadFromButt@punkass.com> Gave us:

The following instructions will work for removing smd chips.

1.) Take an oven tray and cover with aluminum foil, place board on foil.
2.) Set oven to 300-350 degrees F. depends on solder type used.
3.) Place tray in oven for approx. 10-15 minutes
4.) Open oven door, grab a pair of tweezers and try lifting component. If
component does not lift close oven door and try again every 2-3 minutes until
successful.


That's it ...cheap too!


Considering that 63/37 solder does not melt until it reaches nearly

500 degrees F, I'd say that you just described how to fuck up a PCB.

Remove "HeadFromButt", before replying by email.

No. Leave your head right where it is. Firmly planted up your ass
for maximum punk ass foo.

 

[DarkMatter]

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 17:04:36 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> Gave us:

In article <0001HW.BC1D2B5B0013B776F0080600@news.individual.net>,
me@privacy.net says...
I need to desolder (with no damage to the components) some SMD ROM chips. Is
there a good tutorial somewhere on the 'net about how to go about this?

BTW, I found a great tutorial on technique and equipment (lo-cost, some of it
make-yourself) on the 'net about soldering SMDs:

http://www.wku.edu/~barceed/SolderPage/index.htm

Thanks,


The author of that page - Eduardo Barcellos - should consider giving
proper credit to the original source of his idea
(www.usbmicro.com/odn/index.html). He presents the hot-air idea as if it
were his own.

It is an unfortunate trend that students steal ideas from the internet
and boldly present the information without due credit. A whole
generation of people without morals would be the downfall of society.

Sorry, dipshit, but the idea doesn't belong to the page you cited
either.

What does that make them?

 

[DarkMatter]

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 18:56:09 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> Gave us:

USBmicro originated the idea - at least this specific combination of
iron, fish pump, and stuffed steel wool.

Bullshit.

 

[Sunny]

DaveC wrote:

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 10:14:44 -0800, Sunny wrote
(in message <nJYJb.736$D21.231493@news20.bellglobal.com&gt:


As Tim H. posted, Chipquik is ideal for SMD removal by hand as it allows
you to reflow solder at temperatures low enough to avoid heat damage to
the board or component - the tricky part is removing and cleaning the
component without bending any pins. Most of the SMD rework information
available assumes devices will be discarded after removal.


Is your brother-in-law a dentist? Where do you get the stainless steel
strips? Is there a supplier you use? Or do you just ask your personal
dentist?

How do you know my brother-in-law's profession?

I did get some used picks from him, but there's a surplus electronics
store near me that stocks a variety of small surgical and dental tools,
including the stainless strips. I have also used automotive feeler
gauges, but it gets expensive buying full sets of those just to use the
thinnest ones.

Great ideas. Never having done this before, you have alerted me to some
issues I need to be cautious about.

If at all possible, practice on junk hardware first. Each package type
and location presents it's own challenges, and the first attempts often
result in bent pins until you get a feel for the technique. Even
slightly bent pins are almost impossible to straighten and greatly
reduce the chances of a successful re-installation. If you must
re-install a device with a small number of bent pins, IMHO it's best to
leave them alone and resolder all the good pins, then push the point of
a needle between soldered and bent pins to re-align them with their pads.

 

In article <7irgvv0mecuc1vkjjk9k978b06oh9no2sp@4ax.com>,
maxfooHeadFromButt@punkass.com says...

So let the guy know he's a plagiarist, his email is contact@nanosistemas.com

You don't think he knows? He copied. It should be the school that should
be emailed.

There are no published references to this idea any earlier than the
first publication of the app note on the usbmicro site (and in the
archives of PIClist) [as far as I am able to discover]. The idea is
there on the net for anyone to use as they wish. But any student that
can't cite sources and only slightly alters the text of the plagiarized
information is the type of person that ends up causing a lawsuit for a
company. Again, I wouldn't want such a person working for me. He would
probably never learn to do his own work if he can just steal.

There are a lot of people that can steal an idea, slightly alter it, and
claim that they did all of the original work. These people are not worth
half of a good engineer that can create new ideas. Even an engineer that
uses example material - but makes it clear that the material came from
another source - is of more value than someone that just steals.

Frankly I can imagine that this student has a hard drive full of stolen
music and doesn't think anything of it. Not a big leap to stealing
property. Sad.

 

[DaveC]

On Sun, 4 Jan 2004 12:22:52 -0800, Sunny wrote
(in message <uB_Jb.1834$D21.279420@news20.bellglobal.com&gt:

If at all possible, practice on junk hardware first. Each package type
and location presents it's own challenges, and the first attempts often
result in bent pins until you get a feel for the technique.

I need to preserve one set of ROMs from a PCB. This PCB can be trashed; I
have no need for it afterward. The ROMs on another board can be trashed
(they're defective), but the PCB needs to be preserved.

One job I need to be careful with the chips; the other, with the PCB.

Feeler gauges... hmm, I have several old sets of those lying around.

Thanks,
--
DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

 

[John Popelish]

DarkMatter wrote:

Considering that 63/37 solder does not melt until it reaches nearly
500 degrees F, I'd say that you just described how to fuck up a PCB.

It is not as bad as all that.
http://www.rfcafe.com/references/electrical/solder.htm

But I am still reluctant to cook boards or components that long.

--
John Popelish

 

[Robert Grizzard]

In sci.electronics.repair DarkMatter <DarkMatter@thebarattheendoftheuniverse.org> wrote:

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 15:31:10 GMT, maxfoo
maxfooHeadFromButt@punkass.com> Gave us:

The following instructions will work for removing smd chips.

1.) Take an oven tray and cover with aluminum foil, place board on foil.
2.) Set oven to 300-350 degrees F. depends on solder type used.
3.) Place tray in oven for approx. 10-15 minutes
4.) Open oven door, grab a pair of tweezers and try lifting component. If
component does not lift close oven door and try again every 2-3 minutes until
successful.


That's it ...cheap too!


Considering that 63/37 solder does not melt until it reaches nearly
500 degrees F, I'd say that you just described how to fuck up a PCB.

http://www.kester.com/alloy_temp_chart.html

HTH

 

[DarkMatter]

On Sun, 04 Jan 2004 22:05:43 GMT, <nobody@nowhere.com> Gave us:

In article <7irgvv0mecuc1vkjjk9k978b06oh9no2sp@4ax.com>,
maxfooHeadFromButt@punkass.com says...
So let the guy know he's a plagiarist, his email is contact@nanosistemas.com

You don't think he knows? He copied. It should be the school that should
be emailed.

There are no published references to this idea any earlier than the
first publication of the app note on the usbmicro site (and in the
archives of PIClist) [as far as I am able to discover].

Look, dingledorf... we HAVE a product that uses a hot air pencil, a
hot air bath, and uses a diaphragm type pump (read aquarium pump).

It was around LONG before that site ever posted a damned thing.

CEEERIMANY!

The idea is
there on the net for anyone to use as they wish. But any student that
can't cite sources and only slightly alters the text of the plagiarized
information is the type of person that ends up causing a lawsuit for a
company.

Sorry, but the idea is not copyrighted by them, and posting a how to
for a hot air pencil is not either.

A word for word copy could cause stir, but I doubt that that lame
assed site will be affording law suits any time soon.

Again, I wouldn't want such a person working for me. He would
probably never learn to do his own work if he can just steal.

Perhaps the site should be examined closer then. How do you know
they didn't copy it from somewhere, with a few words changed?

There are a lot of people that can steal an idea, slightly alter it, and
claim that they did all of the original work.

Yes. Many a company has gone under because a bigger company could
produce a better product, cheaper, and faster, and get it out on the
market faster, nd with greater commercial exposure. It's called
competition.

These people are not worth
half of a good engineer that can create new ideas.

Sorry, but the info on that site is not original.

Even an engineer that
uses example material - but makes it clear that the material came from
another source - is of more value than someone that just steals.

As if we all need your moral primers.

Frankly I can imagine that this student has a hard drive full of stolen
music and doesn't think anything of it. Not a big leap to stealing
property. Sad.

Yes, it is, but your presumptions of theft are more so.