Scratchy volume control.

tabb.. the Troll puked:

Peter Jason wrote:


Thanks, I'll find some & report back.


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

** How fascinating.

FYI, Mr NT, Peter Jason has been a notorious troll and resident quarter wit on aus.legal for more than 10 years.



Ignore Phil,

** At your peril.


he's strange.

** NT is completely demented, he thinks he thinks.

Like most of the autistic fools infesting usenet.



.... Phil
 
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much. After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?

I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.
 
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 04:33:56 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"
<peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much. After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
ruined the lubrication. The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
smoothly before assembly continued. A component replacement cost time
and time cost money!

Steve

--
http://www.npsnn.com
 
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
<ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?
 
On 2019/02/28 12:53 p.m., Peter Jason wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?

Cassette players use 'rubber' belts and 'tires' for various mechanical
drive sections. Most of these parts can probably be found, but it will
take some hunting...
In many cases the old rubber-like compound has turned to goo and first
needs to be cleaned out. Then take out your calipers/micrometer and
start measuring! To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out. Measurement is usually IC
(Inside Circumference) of the circle size of the measured string. Allow
a fudge factor and get at least one size smaller and one size larger
than you think you need to save time.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
On Thursday, 28 February 2019 12:33:59 UTC, pf...@aol.com wrote:
On Thursday, February 28, 2019 at 3:21:18 AM UTC-5, tabby wrote:


Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.

While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much.

I've never had that problem.

> After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.

it doesn't flow like oil, but it's easily moved by squeezing, so will get in there albeit slower. It may suffice.

However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

not only is it long term stable, but unlike most lubes it doesn't break down into corrosive substances when electrified.


NT
 
On Thursday, 28 February 2019 20:53:32 UTC, Peter Jason wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del
ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:
On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:

I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.

Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them.. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

I have a built-in cassette player in my 1998 car.
The player froze up long ago and given all the
advice here it may be possible to resurrect it. Do
these devices have rubber pulleys?

Rubber belts tends to have disintegrated, less often rubber pulleys too. Cheap stationery rubber bands are often good enough, but not always.


NT
 
Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:

I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components
arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It
took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by
the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but
it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track
ruined the lubrication.

** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.

For the simple reason it stops the pot working.


The test was just to make sure the wiper moved
smoothly before assembly continued.

** Pots with a nice. smooth feel have grease packed into the BEARING where the shaft rotates - usually clear silicone.




..... Phil
 
>"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *

You claimed it was the same as LPS2, IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.

When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust that it collects maybe not. Even if there are not say carbon particles in the environment, even dander and other types of dust, even though they MIGHT be electrically inert, they won't be when the humidity is high. If it is dander you can be sure there is is/are salt(s) in it. Much dust is dander.
 
>"Dubious that it would still be alive, much less at liberty. "

I say give him a gun and watch the fun...
 
"But it makes a great flame thrower. I think the propellant has
something to do with that. "

Hair spray is much better, but don't use it on electronics.
 
"To figure out the size of the belt (square, flat, or
round) use a piece of string to work that out."

I tried to do that mathematically. Like OÂşo. The diameters and distance between.

It didn't work out. (pun optional)
 
jurb is a cunt ...@gmail.com wrote:


"** The name is WD40 - not WMD40. *

You claimed it was the same as LPS2,

** I did no such thing - you lying fuckwit.



IT IS NOT. First of all if it smells different it is different. Also, LPS2 is electrically inert and stays that way. Not with WD40. I been to many shops, WD40 would throw the alignment off on TV tuners, you know the old type.. I told them not to use it, use LPS2. Now the alignment would not drift.

** Utter BULLSHIT !!!!!!!!!!

ANYTHING that contains oil will make RF tuned circuits drift.



When more than a very sparing amount of LPS2 is used I rinse it off
with a mild solvent. It may remain electrically inert but the dust
that it collects maybe not.


** He says, while clutching at imaginary straws

- what a FUCKING NUT CASE !!
 
>"** That is very strange, in 50+ years I have not come across or heard of a potentiometer with any form of grease deliberately applied to the track.

For the simple reason it stops the pot working. "

They put that sh it in the shaft/bushing to get the "feel". Not in the whole thing obviously. It has a pretty high viscosity to say the least. Disassemble one like that and you see the shit is like wax.
 
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:06:04 +1100, Peter Jason
<pj@jostle.com> wrote:

On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 19:13:47 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:

On 2/27/19 7:09 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's
Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:

On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote:
I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume
wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly
harder to turn though this might improve as
remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of
it.

....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?


What we told you to use to begin with.
https://caig.com/fader-f-series/

Thanks, I'll find some & report back.

The little radio is working so well that I'll
leave off the lube for a while. The wheel is a
bit easier to twirl now.
 
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
<https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases>
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] <https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 05:05:05 -0800 (PST), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com
wrote:

The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony
filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of
high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer
returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like
how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as
it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make
the guy happy.

Maybe next time, try damping grease:
https://www.nyelubricants.com/damping-greases
I use a similar Nye grease for lubricating microscope gears[1], which
I've also used successfully for potentiometers and controls when
necessary. The stuff is outrageously expensive, but a small tube will
last a long time. You can get a 5 tube sample of different
viscosities fairly cheap from the company. However, I suspect
ordering a new control from Sony might be easier and cheaper.


[1] <https://www.ebay.com/itm/292959265795

Been looking for something like damping grease.

Greg
 

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