Removing rubbery potting compound

[Samuel M. Goldwasser]

root <NoEMail@home.org> writes:

Sam Goldwasser <sam@ampersand.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

Whether a coping saw blade is optimal I don't know, but something that
can be forced through and then fastened at both ends with enough "teeth"
to be able to eat away at the rubber.

Thanks!


I've lost track of how long the laser tube is. If you can thread
dental floss along the length of the tube you can saw the tube
out with the floss.

Interesting thought. At least that's something I have.

I have a feeling it is going to be something along those lines.

Thanks!

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[James Sweet]

N_Cook wrote:

JW <none@dev.null> wrote in message
news:4e7145psh26ir5dcrgqem5i1m5612m639d@4ax.com...
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:33:23 -0400 Sam Goldwasser
sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in Message id:
6wk5348n3g.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu>:

The PCB was just an example. But where this is needed is to remove
the stuff surrounding a glass laser tube - about 6 inches in length
and a space of 2 or 3 mm between the tube and the cylinder it's in.
Both the cylinder and tube need to come out undamaged.
How about using a thin blade from a coping saw? Once you manage to slip it
all the way through the length of the cylinder it should work fairly well.
I don't think it'd damage the glass either.

My coping saw blades are only 6 inches long, I doubt they come any longer as
only intended for small light work.

After drilling a pilot hole I would try one of these sort of wire saws
http://www.ecamo.co.uk/product/webtex-commando-survival-wire-saw/265.html
fed through and then bodge fixed in a 12 inch hacksaw frame for rigidity.

Or straightened out bit of heater element wire

Or a guitar string, the rough coily type.