RAC Portable Power Station, need DC adaptor spec

In article <idnnqn$f69$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
I have an electronic battery tester -- an expensive device.
This gives a instantaneous readout of the capacity in Ah.
If you don't know what it should be it is fairly useless.

You cannot take an "instantaneous" reading of a cell's Ah capacity. Such
a measurement requires actually draining the battery.
I dunno how it actually achieves this, but in practice it's what it does.
And is pretty accurate if you check it against doing an actual discharge.
Nor does it need the battery to be fully charged to test it.

I've used it on many batteries of different capacities - and on known
good ones gives a readout within something like 5% of the stated capacity.
Unless the charge is too low for it to work.

For me, it's invaluable.

--
*Puritanism: The haunting fear that someone, somewhere may be happy.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article <dICdneSAm4Z_u2LRnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
You don't half talk rubbish. Battery testers used to be large devices.
This is the size of a DVM. And gives an accurate readout of the overall
battery condition. Not just its voltage or how much current it can
deliver. It's invaluable for quick testing of a lead acid battery.

Then explain how it can determine the Ah rating. it sounds like it
tests the battery's ESR and guesses the Ah rating.

It doesn't 'guess' anything. It gives a pretty accurate reading. I'd
suggest you find out for yourself how they work.

Does your car battery tell you the discharge
rate to achieve the marked Ah rating?

It's also a standard in the UK. 20 hour rate.

So you can leave your headlights on for 20 hours with no problems?

So you've no clue *either* about how battery capacity is measured?

No, I don't know anything according to you. I worked on the design
and manufacturing of test instruments that sold for up to $80,000. A
claim like yours needs to be backed up.


Hint. Headlights on dip (and the other lights which will be on with them)
amount to around a 12 amp load. That's with 55 watt tungsten headlights.

You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:


Part Number: 9007SU
Weight: 0.157 lbs
Notes: Dual beam
Amperage Draw: 5.08
Bulb Diameter (In): 0.67
Bulb Technology: Halogen
Color Temperature: 4100
DOT / SAE Compliant: Yes
Filament Configuration: C-8
Headlamp Beam: Low & High Beams
Headlamp Bulb Base Design: PX29T
Headlamp Bulb Configuration: T-4 5/8
Headlamp Bulb Number: 9007
Headlamp Wattage: 65
High Beam Wattage: 55
Light Center Length (In): 1.75
Low Beam Wattage: 65
Lumens: 1345
Maximum Overall Length (In): 3.7
Operating Voltage: 12.8
Rated Life (Hours): 250
Vehicle System Voltage: 12V

At a 20 hour rate that would suggest a 240 amp.hour battery just for them
still to be sort of working. But not without problems. Please try it on
your car.

Sigh. How long have you been brain dead?


--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
 
BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
"halogen" lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars
above base spec.
Are these those blinding-blue bulbs that rip retinas with flesh-frying
force? (Note quadruple use of alliteration.)
 
In article <BuWdnR_IyNUFF2LRnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:
You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the inert
gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still likely
tungsten.

However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55 watt (EU
spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.

BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient 'halogen'
lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt whatever. They're
pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above base spec.

--
*There's two theories to arguing with a woman. Neither one works *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
In article <ido68s$msl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
"halogen" lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars
above base spec.

Are these those blinding-blue bulbs that rip retinas with flesh-frying
force? (Note quadruple use of alliteration.)
Dunno. Mine have a colour temperature quite close to filament lamps and a
very sharp cut-off beam pattern. The car also has self levelling
suspension. The earliest versions of them did appear quite 'blue'. Rather
like most 'white' LEDs. ;-)

--
*Income tax service - We‘ve got what it takes to take what you've got.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:

You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:

You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the inert
gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still likely
tungsten.

However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55 watt (EU
spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.

So? Just because they use that spec in a backwards, anti-engineering
country is no reason for anyone else to.


BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient 'halogen'
lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt whatever. They're
pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above base spec.

Sigh. Still can't stick to what you post, can you? First you claim
55 W tungsten, then it's 35 W HID. No wonder you believe the hype about
your magic toy battery tester. The actual Ah rating is determined by
it's use. That 20 Ah rating is only one curve, of many. If you stuck
to it, you couldn't start the vehicle's engine with it. you couldn't use
most car radios without exceeding the proper discharge rate. You
dismiss the total starting circuit resistance as nothing.

As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most US
drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't light the
sides of the road well enough to see animals or people along the side of
a road until it's too late. There are a lot of very long, and high
speed roads in the US where you need that extra illumination.



--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
 
In article <99GdnTnMNaKxj53QnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the
inert gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still
likely tungsten.

However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55 watt (EU
spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.

So? Just because they use that spec in a backwards, anti-engineering
country is no reason for anyone else to.
Crikey. Where did that come from? Hate just admitting your mistake?


BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
'halogen' lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above
base spec.

Sigh. Still can't stick to what you post, can you? First you claim
55 W tungsten, then it's 35 W HID.
Crikey again. Do you actually think before posting?

No wonder you believe the hype about
your magic toy battery tester. The actual Ah rating is determined by
it's use. That 20 Ah rating is only one curve, of many. If you stuck
to it, you couldn't start the vehicle's engine with it. you couldn't use
most car radios without exceeding the proper discharge rate. You
dismiss the total starting circuit resistance as nothing.
More bollocks. Amp hour and the discharge rate are simply a standard way
of *measuring* that parameter. Other battery parameters are given
separately. For one who claims to be an engineer, this shouldn't need
explaining.

As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most US
drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't light the
sides of the road well enough to see animals or people along the side of
a road until it's too late. There are a lot of very long, and high
speed roads in the US where you need that extra illumination.
You've never experienced decent HID lamps. With proper reflector etc
design they can provide any beam pattern you want. Mine produce as even
illumination as you could possibly want - no high spots at all. They also
have a 'spike' at the nearside which illuminates the side of the road
rather further than the main part of the beam. They only provide the dip
beam - the high beam is by ordinary quartz halogen units, which are in
addition to the dips.

--
*He has Van Gogh's ear for music.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
You cannot take an "instantaneous" reading of a cell's Ah capacity.
Such a measurement requires actually draining the battery.

I used to think that, but Google gave many hits like this
http://www.actmeters.com/nsi/33-Battery-Capacity-Tester.php
A fascinating product, but I still don't see how it works.

The only method "obvious" (to me) would be to short the cell for a fraction
of a second, and use the measured current to calculate the internal
resistance. * This, in turn, could be used to estimate the cell's Ah
capacity. But this assumes there's a direct correlation of the resistance
with the cell's capacity, regardless of its age or charge condition. Is
there?

* This is the way Microsoft Hardware tested mouse batteries -- but to see
whether they were primary or secondary, and whether the latter were
"defective". The capacity was of little concern.
 
You cannot take an "instantaneous" reading of a cell's Ah capacity. Such a
measurement requires actually draining the battery.
I used to think that but Google gave many hits like this
http://www.actmeters.com/nsi/33-Battery-Capacity-Tester.php

John
 
  As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most US
drivers don't like them.  You get a brighter spot, but don't light the
sides of the road well enough to see animals or people along the side of
a road until it's too late.  There are a lot of very long, and high
speed roads in the US where you need that extra illumination.
Don't blame the light source for poor optical performance. A good
headlight will give a good beam pattern. A number of people have tried
retrofiting HID bulbs into halogen lamps. The light position and shape
can give a very poor beam pattern, sometimes worse than the original
it replaced.
As for long high speed straights, have a look at what they use in
sports car racing. Last time I checked, every car at Le-Mans was on
HID. 200mph on the Mulsanne straight needs good lights. Equally, rally
cars also use HID. they only do about 130mph but that's on a forrest
track between trees at night.
I thought the US had a 55mph speed limit. Have they changed that? It's
been some time since I was there.

John
 
In article <BuWdnR_IyNUFF2LRnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:
You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:
The US finally adopted EU vehicle lighting standards after US lighting
engineers spent some 20 years pressuring to be able to use the safer,
more effective, and more modern EU standards in the US, against the
US car manufacturers who didn't want the expense of redesigning their
ancient lighting systems and didn't want competition from foreign
lighting manufacturers.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article <99GdnTnMNaKxj53QnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the
inert gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still
likely tungsten.

However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55 watt (EU
spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.

So? Just because they use that spec in a backwards, anti-engineering
country is no reason for anyone else to.

Crikey. Where did that come from? Hate just admitting your mistake?

From the current 'Brit Engineering kaput!' thread on
news:sci.electronics.design where they are discussing why all
engineering in England has gone to crap. From the public's attitude
towards engineering, stupid HR staff and brain drain where people with
talent leave England to work elsewhere.


BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
'halogen' lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above
base spec.

Sigh. Still can't stick to what you post, can you? First you claim
55 W tungsten, then it's 35 W HID.

Crikey again. Do you actually think before posting?

Yes, unlike you. You keep comparing apples to crabapples.


No wonder you believe the hype about
your magic toy battery tester. The actual Ah rating is determined by
it's use. That 20 Ah rating is only one curve, of many. If you stuck
to it, you couldn't start the vehicle's engine with it. you couldn't use
most car radios without exceeding the proper discharge rate. You
dismiss the total starting circuit resistance as nothing.

More bollocks. Amp hour and the discharge rate are simply a standard way
of *measuring* that parameter. Other battery parameters are given
separately. For one who claims to be an engineer, this shouldn't need
explaining.

I know how the damn 'standard' works. It works even better if it has
a relevant base measurement. Starting a vehicle is a completely
different function from a standby power application. Other than
starting the vehicle, little current is drawn from a car's battery if
the charging system works properly. Therfore a '20 Ah rating' is not
the proper standard. That is why the US rates a car battery by CCA. A
worst case condition for starting in cold weather when an engine is
tight and the lubricants are stiff. Your miracle tester won't find a
failing batery. I've had several show no signs of trouble that
developed an open internal connection when you hit the key. Your DMM
sized miracle box won't find that and give warning, but the old
controlled discharge testers will.



As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most US
drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't light the
sides of the road well enough to see animals or people along the side of
a road until it's too late. There are a lot of very long, and high
speed roads in the US where you need that extra illumination.

You've never experienced decent HID lamps.

Most of what I've seen are on imported cars. They tend to blind
oncoming traffic.


With proper reflector etc
design they can provide any beam pattern you want. Mine produce as even
illumination as you could possibly want - no high spots at all. They also
have a 'spike' at the nearside which illuminates the side of the road
rather further than the main part of the beam. They only provide the dip
beam - the high beam is by ordinary quartz halogen units, which are in
addition to the dips.


--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
 
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article <BuWdnR_IyNUFF2LRnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:


You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:

The US finally adopted EU vehicle lighting standards after US lighting
engineers spent some 20 years pressuring to be able to use the safer,
more effective, and more modern EU standards in the US, against the
US car manufacturers who didn't want the expense of redesigning their
ancient lighting systems and didn't want competition from foreign
lighting manufacturers.

So, the Philips and Osram lamps are US made?


--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
 
John wrote:
You cannot take an "instantaneous" reading of a cell's Ah capacity. Such a
measurement requires actually draining the battery.

I used to think that but Google gave many hits like this
http://www.actmeters.com/nsi/33-Battery-Capacity-Tester.php

John

In circuit, without disconnecting from the vehicle? Doesn't that
tell you ANYTHING? It mesures ESR.

Have you read the manual?

The ACT 33 Battery Tester is designed for measuring the internal
resistance,
open-circuit voltage, and terminal temperature of secondary batteries,
including lead storage cells, nickel-cadmium batteries, lithium-ion
batteries
and nickel-metal hydride batteries

<http://www.actmeters.com/manuals/ACT33%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf>

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
 
John wrote:
As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most US
drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't light the
sides of the road well enough to see animals or people along the side of
a road until it's too late. There are a lot of very long, and high
speed roads in the US where you need that extra illumination.

Don't blame the light source for poor optical performance. A good
headlight will give a good beam pattern. A number of people have tried
retrofiting HID bulbs into halogen lamps. The light position and shape
can give a very poor beam pattern, sometimes worse than the original
it replaced.

What else would you expect, with the built in reflectors for the
Hallogen bulbs?


As for long high speed straights, have a look at what they use in
sports car racing. Last time I checked, every car at Le-Mans was on
HID. 200mph on the Mulsanne straight needs good lights. Equally, rally
cars also use HID. they only do about 130mph but that's on a forrest
track between trees at night.

With loud engines and all traffic in one direction. That is nothing
like driving a typical car at night on a country road. Have you ever
had a horse step out in front of your vehicle? How about a cow that got
out of the pasture's gate, or a large bear? Some areas have had to have
16' high fence built along the sides of roads and a tunnel under the
road to stop the accidents.


I thought the US had a 55mph speed limit. Have they changed that? It's
been some time since I was there.
No, 70 MPH has been restored in a lot of places.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!
 
The only method "obvious" (to me) would be to short the cell for a
fraction of a second, and use the measured current to calculate the
internal resistance. * This, in turn, could be used to estimate the
cell's Ah capacity. But this assumes there's a direct correlation of the
resistance with the cell's capacity, regardless of its age or charge
condition. Is there?

I *think* that's the way it works. The crock clips have very sharp 'pins'
to ensure a good contact with the battery terminals.

But having used mine on a variety of sized batteries it really does seem
to give a good indication as to the condition rather than just the charge
state of a battery. In other words if it says a fully charged battery has
the capacity (in amp.hrs) as stated on the battery it is good. Works
on batteries from 1.8 - 200 Ah. If it gives a reading of less than 65% of
that figure, the battery should be replaced. The claim is it simulates a
20 hour test in 6 seconds.
Have you checked the results against something like the MAHA C9000, which
actually drains the cell?
 
In article <idqp89$ttm$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
You cannot take an "instantaneous" reading of a cell's Ah capacity.
Such a measurement requires actually draining the battery.

I used to think that, but Google gave many hits like this
http://www.actmeters.com/nsi/33-Battery-Capacity-Tester.php

A fascinating product, but I still don't see how it works.

The only method "obvious" (to me) would be to short the cell for a
fraction of a second, and use the measured current to calculate the
internal resistance. * This, in turn, could be used to estimate the
cell's Ah capacity. But this assumes there's a direct correlation of the
resistance with the cell's capacity, regardless of its age or charge
condition. Is there?
I *think* that's the way it works. The crock clips have very sharp 'pins'
to ensure a good contact with the battery terminals.

But having used mine on a variety of sized batteries it really does seem
to give a good indication as to the condition rather than just the charge
state of a battery. In other words if it says a fully charged battery has
the capacity (in amp.hrs) as stated on the battery it is good. Works on
batteries from 1.8 - 200 Ah. If it gives a reading of less than 65% of
that figure, the battery should be replaced. The claim is it simulates a
20 hour test in 6 seconds.

It's no cheap DVM, though. Cost almost 200 gbp - and came with a hand
written calibration certificate. Most decent battery sellers will have
something similar. Even Halfords. ;-)

* This is the way Microsoft Hardware tested mouse batteries -- but to see
whether they were primary or secondary, and whether the latter were
"defective". The capacity was of little concern.
--
*All generalizations are false.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
In article <idqpan$boo$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
In article <BuWdnR_IyNUFF2LRnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:


You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard
in the US. My truck uses 65 W:

The US finally adopted EU vehicle lighting standards after US lighting
engineers spent some 20 years pressuring to be able to use the safer,
more effective, and more modern EU standards in the US, against the
US car manufacturers who didn't want the expense of redesigning their
ancient lighting systems and didn't want competition from foreign
lighting manufacturers.
Older readers may remember Lucas spot light adverts from the '60s - 'are
too powerful for use in some US states'

By the prince of darkness. ;-)

--
*I'm pretty sure that sex is better than logic, but I can't prove it.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 11:15:42 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article <BuWdnR_IyNUFF2LRnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:


You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard
in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:

The US finally adopted EU vehicle lighting standards after US lighting
engineers spent some 20 years pressuring to be able to use the safer,
more effective, and more modern EU standards in the US, against the US
car manufacturers who didn't want the expense of redesigning their
ancient lighting systems and didn't want competition from foreign
lighting manufacturers.


So, the Philips and Osram lamps are US made?
Who wrote this?

"You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:"



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
 
In article <_YudndJCh50TnZzQnZ2dnUVZ_rudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <99GdnTnMNaKxj53QnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the
inert gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still
likely tungsten.

However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55
watt (EU spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.

So? Just because they use that spec in a backwards,
anti-engineering country is no reason for anyone else to.

Crikey. Where did that come from? Hate just admitting your mistake?

From the current 'Brit Engineering kaput!' thread on
news:sci.electronics.design where they are discussing why all
engineering in England has gone to crap. From the public's attitude
towards engineering, stupid HR staff and brain drain where people with
talent leave England to work elsewhere.
You really need to see what UK groups say about the US. ;-)

Or perhaps you feel it's not in some similar form of 'decline'? If so, get
your head out of your arse and look around you. At all the Chinese etc
made consumer goods. Same as here. GM bankrupt yet again - despite having
one of the largest markets on its doorstep. Etc.

I'm no 'my country right or wrong' type. I'll leave that to you.


BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
'halogen' lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above
base spec.

Sigh. Still can't stick to what you post, can you? First you
claim 55 W tungsten, then it's 35 W HID.

Crikey again. Do you actually think before posting?

Yes, unlike you. You keep comparing apples to crabapples.
Sigh. You're the one doing the comparing - and getting it wrong.


No wonder you believe the hype about your magic toy battery tester.
The actual Ah rating is determined by it's use. That 20 Ah rating
is only one curve, of many. If you stuck to it, you couldn't start
the vehicle's engine with it. you couldn't use most car radios
without exceeding the proper discharge rate. You dismiss the total
starting circuit resistance as nothing.

More bollocks. Amp hour and the discharge rate are simply a standard
way of *measuring* that parameter. Other battery parameters are given
separately. For one who claims to be an engineer, this shouldn't need
explaining.

I know how the damn 'standard' works. It works even better if it has
a relevant base measurement. Starting a vehicle is a completely
different function from a standby power application. Other than
starting the vehicle, little current is drawn from a car's battery if
the charging system works properly. Therfore a '20 Ah rating' is not
the proper standard. That is why the US rates a car battery by CCA. A
worst case condition for starting in cold weather when an engine is
tight and the lubricants are stiff.
Who are you trying to educate? I'm well aware of the likely loading on a
car battery. UK batteries also give all that information - the Ah one is
in addition.


Your miracle tester won't find a
failing batery. I've had several show no signs of trouble that
developed an open internal connection when you hit the key. Your DMM
sized miracle box won't find that and give warning, but the old
controlled discharge testers will.
You really need to do some research before being so certain. Because
you're wrong. My tester will show up a faulty cell - either high impedance
or shorted. Your prehistoric 'controlled discharge' (just an ammeter)
won't - unless you also do other measurements. It also needs skill and
care to use. But perhaps you've never seen a battery blow apart when
having a high discharge test done? I have. My tester doesn't apply the
load until after it is connected.



As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most
US drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't
light the sides of the road well enough to see animals or people
along the side of a road until it's too late. There are a lot of
very long, and high speed roads in the US where you need that extra
illumination.

You've never experienced decent HID lamps.

Most of what I've seen are on imported cars. They tend to blind
oncoming traffic.
I have no idea of the construction and use regulations in the US. If they
are only fitted to imports, it shows just how far behind the times Detroit
is. FWIW badly set filament lights can dazzle too. Or ones with just plain
poor optical design. HID lamps are much more efficient. If they are
designed to the same light output as 'halogen' you benefit from less
energy use. If similar savings are made elsewhere in a car, you specify a
smaller alternator and cable sizes. Etc.


With proper reflector etc design they can provide any beam pattern you
want. Mine produce as even illumination as you could possibly want -
no high spots at all. They also have a 'spike' at the nearside which
illuminates the side of the road rather further than the main part of
the beam. They only provide the dip beam - the high beam is by
ordinary quartz halogen units, which are in addition to the dips.
--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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