Printing on mylar/acetate...

D

Don Y

Guest
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image). But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process. But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...
 
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA512

On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image). But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process. But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

For a one-off (or \"test\"), I\'d consider printing on the back of a
transparency sheet to be fine.

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.


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|_|O|_|
|_|_|O| Github: https://github.com/dpurgert
|O|O|O| PGP: DDAB 23FB 19FA 7D85 1CC1 E067 6D65 70E5 4CE7 2860
 
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA512

On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image). But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process. But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

For a one-off (or \"test\"), I\'d consider printing on the back of a
transparency sheet to be fine.

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.


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--
|_|O|_|
|_|_|O| Github: https://github.com/dpurgert
|O|O|O| PGP: DDAB 23FB 19FA 7D85 1CC1 E067 6D65 70E5 4CE7 2860
 
On 1/5/2023 4:35 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 1:48:32 PM UTC-8, Don Y wrote:
On 1/5/2023 9:25 AM, Dan Purgert wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.
Yeah, I originally thought of using mylar as it\'s a considerably
more robust medium. But, my mylar is all semi-opaque. So, the idea
of printing on the reverse side doesn\'t seem like it would work
well (the image would appear cloudy).

There are service bureaus here that can make washable durable adhesive labels on
mylar, for a price. Polycarbonate is another available option. Probably
something more complicated than a laser printer...

Don\'t want labels as they\'d present an uneven surface (if applied to the top)
and \"look tacky\" if pieced together on the underside.

Instead, want a single sheet ~12x18\" with different graphics in different
areas of the sheet. This, for example, is a wireframe of the \"stock\" 12x12\"
template:
<https://help.autodesk.com/sfdcarticles/img/0EM3A00000082o6>
Each little box represents a command/action that can be invoked by tapping the
stylus (or the puck) in that area. The largish area in the center (not
on top) maps to positions on the screen. So, you can directly point
to a portion of your design by suitably positioning the stylus in that
area. The really big area up top is for user programmable stuff... you\'ll
note there are no provisions to LABEL the regions you define, there!

Once you get a feel for \"what\'s where\", it\'s very efficient -- like a data
entry person with 10-key.

You can quickly type numbers using the numeric \"menu\" on the right side.
Or, pick from common angles, fractions, etc. You can invoke various \"filters\"
on items you\'ve selected on the screen (e.g., \"take the X coordinate of
this point... and the Y coordinate of this OTHER point... and use that
as the center for a cylinder having THIS height...\")

[The configuration process lets you define \"menu areas\" (the blue, red,
cyan, violet callouts indicate the areas defined for THIS template) and
the associated commands (in a text file)]

There are also traditional pulldown menus but they are for weenies
(see \"MenuBar\" in the screen area)

You can attach the template to your tablet with these little \"nibs\"
affixed to the tablet (which fit into precut holes in the template
and justify/secure it properly). So, can have different templates
for different types of work (I had a friend who used to use AutoCAD
as an Etch-a-Sketch to layout PCBs <frown>)
 
On 1/5/2023 4:35 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 1:48:32 PM UTC-8, Don Y wrote:
On 1/5/2023 9:25 AM, Dan Purgert wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.
Yeah, I originally thought of using mylar as it\'s a considerably
more robust medium. But, my mylar is all semi-opaque. So, the idea
of printing on the reverse side doesn\'t seem like it would work
well (the image would appear cloudy).

There are service bureaus here that can make washable durable adhesive labels on
mylar, for a price. Polycarbonate is another available option. Probably
something more complicated than a laser printer...

Don\'t want labels as they\'d present an uneven surface (if applied to the top)
and \"look tacky\" if pieced together on the underside.

Instead, want a single sheet ~12x18\" with different graphics in different
areas of the sheet. This, for example, is a wireframe of the \"stock\" 12x12\"
template:
<https://help.autodesk.com/sfdcarticles/img/0EM3A00000082o6>
Each little box represents a command/action that can be invoked by tapping the
stylus (or the puck) in that area. The largish area in the center (not
on top) maps to positions on the screen. So, you can directly point
to a portion of your design by suitably positioning the stylus in that
area. The really big area up top is for user programmable stuff... you\'ll
note there are no provisions to LABEL the regions you define, there!

Once you get a feel for \"what\'s where\", it\'s very efficient -- like a data
entry person with 10-key.

You can quickly type numbers using the numeric \"menu\" on the right side.
Or, pick from common angles, fractions, etc. You can invoke various \"filters\"
on items you\'ve selected on the screen (e.g., \"take the X coordinate of
this point... and the Y coordinate of this OTHER point... and use that
as the center for a cylinder having THIS height...\")

[The configuration process lets you define \"menu areas\" (the blue, red,
cyan, violet callouts indicate the areas defined for THIS template) and
the associated commands (in a text file)]

There are also traditional pulldown menus but they are for weenies
(see \"MenuBar\" in the screen area)

You can attach the template to your tablet with these little \"nibs\"
affixed to the tablet (which fit into precut holes in the template
and justify/secure it properly). So, can have different templates
for different types of work (I had a friend who used to use AutoCAD
as an Etch-a-Sketch to layout PCBs <frown>)
 
On 1/5/2023 4:35 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 1:48:32 PM UTC-8, Don Y wrote:
On 1/5/2023 9:25 AM, Dan Purgert wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.
Yeah, I originally thought of using mylar as it\'s a considerably
more robust medium. But, my mylar is all semi-opaque. So, the idea
of printing on the reverse side doesn\'t seem like it would work
well (the image would appear cloudy).

There are service bureaus here that can make washable durable adhesive labels on
mylar, for a price. Polycarbonate is another available option. Probably
something more complicated than a laser printer...

Don\'t want labels as they\'d present an uneven surface (if applied to the top)
and \"look tacky\" if pieced together on the underside.

Instead, want a single sheet ~12x18\" with different graphics in different
areas of the sheet. This, for example, is a wireframe of the \"stock\" 12x12\"
template:
<https://help.autodesk.com/sfdcarticles/img/0EM3A00000082o6>
Each little box represents a command/action that can be invoked by tapping the
stylus (or the puck) in that area. The largish area in the center (not
on top) maps to positions on the screen. So, you can directly point
to a portion of your design by suitably positioning the stylus in that
area. The really big area up top is for user programmable stuff... you\'ll
note there are no provisions to LABEL the regions you define, there!

Once you get a feel for \"what\'s where\", it\'s very efficient -- like a data
entry person with 10-key.

You can quickly type numbers using the numeric \"menu\" on the right side.
Or, pick from common angles, fractions, etc. You can invoke various \"filters\"
on items you\'ve selected on the screen (e.g., \"take the X coordinate of
this point... and the Y coordinate of this OTHER point... and use that
as the center for a cylinder having THIS height...\")

[The configuration process lets you define \"menu areas\" (the blue, red,
cyan, violet callouts indicate the areas defined for THIS template) and
the associated commands (in a text file)]

There are also traditional pulldown menus but they are for weenies
(see \"MenuBar\" in the screen area)

You can attach the template to your tablet with these little \"nibs\"
affixed to the tablet (which fit into precut holes in the template
and justify/secure it properly). So, can have different templates
for different types of work (I had a friend who used to use AutoCAD
as an Etch-a-Sketch to layout PCBs <frown>)
 
On 2023-01-05, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image).  But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process.  But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...

Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on
screens. You could buy that material that said that could be used on a
laser printer.

Yes the printable transparencies were acetate (i think), I think you can still
get acetate sheets at stationers for use with binding machines. (also
used for making face-shields)

For extra durability print on acetate then run it through a document laminator.

If you want only one side laminated laminate two sheets at once and
then separate them.

Actually you can still buy trasparency film

--
Jasen.
pǝsɹǝʌǝɹ sʇɥƃᴉɹ ll∀
 
On 2023-01-05, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image).  But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process.  But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...

Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on
screens. You could buy that material that said that could be used on a
laser printer.

Yes the printable transparencies were acetate (i think), I think you can still
get acetate sheets at stationers for use with binding machines. (also
used for making face-shields)

For extra durability print on acetate then run it through a document laminator.

If you want only one side laminated laminate two sheets at once and
then separate them.

Actually you can still buy trasparency film

--
Jasen.
pǝsɹǝʌǝɹ sʇɥƃᴉɹ ll∀
 
On 2023-01-05, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image).  But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process.  But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...

Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on
screens. You could buy that material that said that could be used on a
laser printer.

Yes the printable transparencies were acetate (i think), I think you can still
get acetate sheets at stationers for use with binding machines. (also
used for making face-shields)

For extra durability print on acetate then run it through a document laminator.

If you want only one side laminated laminate two sheets at once and
then separate them.

Actually you can still buy trasparency film

--
Jasen.
pǝsɹǝʌǝɹ sʇɥƃᴉɹ ll∀
 
Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

On 1/6/2023 2:07 PM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
[...]
Some of our first QR Code \'targets\' are still readable after 5 years.

Plastics left out-of-doors, here, turn brittle in short order.
Folks quickly learn not to leave anything *in* plastic containers
as the containers just crack (spilling their contents). E.g.,
the fire-starting-liquid for the barbecue is in an old wine bottle,
here. The original plastic containers cracking (spilling flammable
fluid) in less time than it took to consume their contents!

I don\'t know how acetate would fare...

[where are you? or, where are the signs??]

I\'m in Bath (UK) and one of my trial signs is on a wall in my back
garden facing East-of-South, where it would get the maximum sunshine if
we ever had any. It has survived about 5 years but is beginning to show
signs of deterioration now. Most of the on-site ones succumbed to
vandalism before they had a chance to become brittle.

The others are sacttered along the Somersetshire Coal Canal, attached to
various surfaces and facing in various directions. Only cast-iron
finger posts and milestone plates seem to survive for decades in that
environment (until the scrap price of iron is high enough).

[...]
The adhesive is hot-melt glue and it is activated with a device like a
miniature domestic mangle, which squeezes out the air pockets...

Heh heh hee... there\'s a word I\'ve not heard in many decades!
\"Wringer\" perhaps being more common, here.

Both words conjure up visions of muscular washerwomen, shrouded in
steam, vigorously attacking robust unidentifiable items of clothing.
...You can buy small home
laminators which use ready-made lamination pockets; the commercial
laminators use the laminating material in bulk from a roll, which works
out cheaper if you have a lot to do.

[...]
My expectation is that the item will be discarded long before the note
shows signs of wear!

My original reason for making a continuous laminator was to manufacture
glossy, gunge-poof, cardboard CD covers for a special children\'s talking
book issue. The project never came to fruition (market research showed
that nobody could be bothered to listen to them).

A lot of background research went into the acetate QR code project,
hence the test pieces still on my garden wall. Nobody spotted the
mobile \'phone reception problem until the project was well advanced.
However, it meant that the technology was tried and tested when we
started to find the need for explanatory and footpath diversion notices
to keep people informed as we began major canal reair work. With the
addition of fluted polypropylene backing board and some wooden posts, we
quickly adapted it to our needs.

--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the \".invalid\"s and add \".co.uk\" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
 
Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

On 1/6/2023 2:07 PM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
[...]
Some of our first QR Code \'targets\' are still readable after 5 years.

Plastics left out-of-doors, here, turn brittle in short order.
Folks quickly learn not to leave anything *in* plastic containers
as the containers just crack (spilling their contents). E.g.,
the fire-starting-liquid for the barbecue is in an old wine bottle,
here. The original plastic containers cracking (spilling flammable
fluid) in less time than it took to consume their contents!

I don\'t know how acetate would fare...

[where are you? or, where are the signs??]

I\'m in Bath (UK) and one of my trial signs is on a wall in my back
garden facing East-of-South, where it would get the maximum sunshine if
we ever had any. It has survived about 5 years but is beginning to show
signs of deterioration now. Most of the on-site ones succumbed to
vandalism before they had a chance to become brittle.

The others are sacttered along the Somersetshire Coal Canal, attached to
various surfaces and facing in various directions. Only cast-iron
finger posts and milestone plates seem to survive for decades in that
environment (until the scrap price of iron is high enough).

[...]
The adhesive is hot-melt glue and it is activated with a device like a
miniature domestic mangle, which squeezes out the air pockets...

Heh heh hee... there\'s a word I\'ve not heard in many decades!
\"Wringer\" perhaps being more common, here.

Both words conjure up visions of muscular washerwomen, shrouded in
steam, vigorously attacking robust unidentifiable items of clothing.
...You can buy small home
laminators which use ready-made lamination pockets; the commercial
laminators use the laminating material in bulk from a roll, which works
out cheaper if you have a lot to do.

[...]
My expectation is that the item will be discarded long before the note
shows signs of wear!

My original reason for making a continuous laminator was to manufacture
glossy, gunge-poof, cardboard CD covers for a special children\'s talking
book issue. The project never came to fruition (market research showed
that nobody could be bothered to listen to them).

A lot of background research went into the acetate QR code project,
hence the test pieces still on my garden wall. Nobody spotted the
mobile \'phone reception problem until the project was well advanced.
However, it meant that the technology was tried and tested when we
started to find the need for explanatory and footpath diversion notices
to keep people informed as we began major canal reair work. With the
addition of fluted polypropylene backing board and some wooden posts, we
quickly adapted it to our needs.

--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the \".invalid\"s and add \".co.uk\" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
 
Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

On 1/6/2023 2:07 PM, Liz Tuddenham wrote:
[...]
Some of our first QR Code \'targets\' are still readable after 5 years.

Plastics left out-of-doors, here, turn brittle in short order.
Folks quickly learn not to leave anything *in* plastic containers
as the containers just crack (spilling their contents). E.g.,
the fire-starting-liquid for the barbecue is in an old wine bottle,
here. The original plastic containers cracking (spilling flammable
fluid) in less time than it took to consume their contents!

I don\'t know how acetate would fare...

[where are you? or, where are the signs??]

I\'m in Bath (UK) and one of my trial signs is on a wall in my back
garden facing East-of-South, where it would get the maximum sunshine if
we ever had any. It has survived about 5 years but is beginning to show
signs of deterioration now. Most of the on-site ones succumbed to
vandalism before they had a chance to become brittle.

The others are sacttered along the Somersetshire Coal Canal, attached to
various surfaces and facing in various directions. Only cast-iron
finger posts and milestone plates seem to survive for decades in that
environment (until the scrap price of iron is high enough).

[...]
The adhesive is hot-melt glue and it is activated with a device like a
miniature domestic mangle, which squeezes out the air pockets...

Heh heh hee... there\'s a word I\'ve not heard in many decades!
\"Wringer\" perhaps being more common, here.

Both words conjure up visions of muscular washerwomen, shrouded in
steam, vigorously attacking robust unidentifiable items of clothing.
...You can buy small home
laminators which use ready-made lamination pockets; the commercial
laminators use the laminating material in bulk from a roll, which works
out cheaper if you have a lot to do.

[...]
My expectation is that the item will be discarded long before the note
shows signs of wear!

My original reason for making a continuous laminator was to manufacture
glossy, gunge-poof, cardboard CD covers for a special children\'s talking
book issue. The project never came to fruition (market research showed
that nobody could be bothered to listen to them).

A lot of background research went into the acetate QR code project,
hence the test pieces still on my garden wall. Nobody spotted the
mobile \'phone reception problem until the project was well advanced.
However, it meant that the technology was tried and tested when we
started to find the need for explanatory and footpath diversion notices
to keep people informed as we began major canal reair work. With the
addition of fluted polypropylene backing board and some wooden posts, we
quickly adapted it to our needs.

--
~ Liz Tuddenham ~
(Remove the \".invalid\"s and add \".co.uk\" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
 
Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> Wrote in message:r
On 1/5/2023 6:34 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:> On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:>> I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.>>>> AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)>> with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion>> of dragging the stylus around the tablet.>>>> I initially assumed they just printed on the back>> (reverse image). But, it looks like the image may,>> in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)>>>> This would complicate the process. But, I\'m guessing>> that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to>> give some degree of durability (?)>>>> And, I could always print replacements if that got to>> be a problem.>>>> I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too>> knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the>> \"print\"...> > Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on screens. > You could buy that material that said that could be used on a laser printer.I\'m not worried about GETTING the image onto the media.My concern is how well it will fare when you\'re dragging thetip of a stylus across it and \"pressing down to actuate\".I can try a B&W image on acetate (I have the \"transparency st
ock\"here from my Phasers) to see if the image is durable... And, ifthat works, do a color version at the local service bureau.

I used acetate when the dry transfer method started. Laser
printing on a acetate works. But I had grainy print, it may have
been my hp 4l at the time
.. You can transfer the toner with heat, but not all the toner
transfers.
I would say that reversing the image would help durability.

Cheers
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
https://piaohong.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usenet/index.html
 
Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> Wrote in message:r
On 1/5/2023 6:34 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:> On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:>> I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.>>>> AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)>> with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion>> of dragging the stylus around the tablet.>>>> I initially assumed they just printed on the back>> (reverse image). But, it looks like the image may,>> in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)>>>> This would complicate the process. But, I\'m guessing>> that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to>> give some degree of durability (?)>>>> And, I could always print replacements if that got to>> be a problem.>>>> I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too>> knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the>> \"print\"...> > Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on screens. > You could buy that material that said that could be used on a laser printer.I\'m not worried about GETTING the image onto the media.My concern is how well it will fare when you\'re dragging thetip of a stylus across it and \"pressing down to actuate\".I can try a B&W image on acetate (I have the \"transparency st
ock\"here from my Phasers) to see if the image is durable... And, ifthat works, do a color version at the local service bureau.

I used acetate when the dry transfer method started. Laser
printing on a acetate works. But I had grainy print, it may have
been my hp 4l at the time
.. You can transfer the toner with heat, but not all the toner
transfers.
I would say that reversing the image would help durability.

Cheers
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
https://piaohong.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usenet/index.html
 
Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> Wrote in message:r
On 1/5/2023 6:34 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:> On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:>> I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.>>>> AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)>> with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion>> of dragging the stylus around the tablet.>>>> I initially assumed they just printed on the back>> (reverse image). But, it looks like the image may,>> in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)>>>> This would complicate the process. But, I\'m guessing>> that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to>> give some degree of durability (?)>>>> And, I could always print replacements if that got to>> be a problem.>>>> I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too>> knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the>> \"print\"...> > Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on screens. > You could buy that material that said that could be used on a laser printer.I\'m not worried about GETTING the image onto the media.My concern is how well it will fare when you\'re dragging thetip of a stylus across it and \"pressing down to actuate\".I can try a B&W image on acetate (I have the \"transparency st
ock\"here from my Phasers) to see if the image is durable... And, ifthat works, do a color version at the local service bureau.

I used acetate when the dry transfer method started. Laser
printing on a acetate works. But I had grainy print, it may have
been my hp 4l at the time
.. You can transfer the toner with heat, but not all the toner
transfers.
I would say that reversing the image would help durability.

Cheers
--


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
https://piaohong.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usenet/index.html
 
On 1/5/2023 8:58 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image).  But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process.  But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...

Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on
screens. You could buy that material that said that could be used on a
laser printer.

Yes the printable transparencies were acetate (i think), I think you can still
get acetate sheets at stationers for use with binding machines. (also
used for making face-shields)

For extra durability print on acetate then run it through a document laminator.

If you want only one side laminated laminate two sheets at once and
then separate them.

Actually you can still buy trasparency film

I have some sheets from my Phasers. (transparencies are so
1980\'s that I never used any of the film)

Gambling that the temperatures were roughly the same,
I tried printing a monochrome image on a sample sheet
(low temperature laser).

It was acceptable, in terms of visual quality.

But, I can scrape the image off. So, wouldn\'t likely fare well
on the top surface (I could mirror the print and apply to the
bottom, if need be)

And, the film is too flimsy -- \"limp noodle\".

I\'m going to bring the digitizer overlays to a shop,
tomorrow, and ask them if they can make something
similar (not just in appearance but, also, durability
and rigidity -- you don\'t want the overlay to \"buckle\"
while you\'re dragging the stylus across it.)
 
On 1/5/2023 8:58 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image).  But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process.  But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...

Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on
screens. You could buy that material that said that could be used on a
laser printer.

Yes the printable transparencies were acetate (i think), I think you can still
get acetate sheets at stationers for use with binding machines. (also
used for making face-shields)

For extra durability print on acetate then run it through a document laminator.

If you want only one side laminated laminate two sheets at once and
then separate them.

Actually you can still buy trasparency film

I have some sheets from my Phasers. (transparencies are so
1980\'s that I never used any of the film)

Gambling that the temperatures were roughly the same,
I tried printing a monochrome image on a sample sheet
(low temperature laser).

It was acceptable, in terms of visual quality.

But, I can scrape the image off. So, wouldn\'t likely fare well
on the top surface (I could mirror the print and apply to the
bottom, if need be)

And, the film is too flimsy -- \"limp noodle\".

I\'m going to bring the digitizer overlays to a shop,
tomorrow, and ask them if they can make something
similar (not just in appearance but, also, durability
and rigidity -- you don\'t want the overlay to \"buckle\"
while you\'re dragging the stylus across it.)
 
On 1/5/2023 8:58 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
On 2023-01-05 07:43, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)
with printed legends that would hold up to the abrasion
of dragging the stylus around the tablet.

I initially assumed they just printed on the back
(reverse image).  But, it looks like the image may,
in fact, be laminated between two clear sheets (?)

This would complicate the process.  But, I\'m guessing
that printing on the back might, by itself, be enough to
give some degree of durability (?)

And, I could always print replacements if that got to
be a problem.

I suspect the folks at the printshop won\'t be too
knowledgeable about dragging a stylus/puck across the
\"print\"...

Long ago, before powerpoint, we made \"transparencies\" to project on
screens. You could buy that material that said that could be used on a
laser printer.

Yes the printable transparencies were acetate (i think), I think you can still
get acetate sheets at stationers for use with binding machines. (also
used for making face-shields)

For extra durability print on acetate then run it through a document laminator.

If you want only one side laminated laminate two sheets at once and
then separate them.

Actually you can still buy trasparency film

I have some sheets from my Phasers. (transparencies are so
1980\'s that I never used any of the film)

Gambling that the temperatures were roughly the same,
I tried printing a monochrome image on a sample sheet
(low temperature laser).

It was acceptable, in terms of visual quality.

But, I can scrape the image off. So, wouldn\'t likely fare well
on the top surface (I could mirror the print and apply to the
bottom, if need be)

And, the film is too flimsy -- \"limp noodle\".

I\'m going to bring the digitizer overlays to a shop,
tomorrow, and ask them if they can make something
similar (not just in appearance but, also, durability
and rigidity -- you don\'t want the overlay to \"buckle\"
while you\'re dragging the stylus across it.)
 
On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 1:48:32 PM UTC-8, Don Y wrote:
On 1/5/2023 9:25 AM, Dan Purgert wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.
Yeah, I originally thought of using mylar as it\'s a considerably
more robust medium. But, my mylar is all semi-opaque. So, the idea
of printing on the reverse side doesn\'t seem like it would work
well (the image would appear cloudy).

There are service bureaus here that can make washable durable adhesive labels on
mylar, for a price. Polycarbonate is another available option. Probably
something more complicated than a laser printer...
 
On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 1:48:32 PM UTC-8, Don Y wrote:
On 1/5/2023 9:25 AM, Dan Purgert wrote:
On 2023-01-05, Don Y wrote:
I need to make some templates for my digitizing tablets.

AutoCAD distributed templates made out of acetate (?)

However from what I recall, in general, those transparency sheets aren\'t
themselves all that durable -- to the point where your stylus may be
able to scratch them. So, for a long-term use sheet, laminating it would
probably be your best option.
Yeah, I originally thought of using mylar as it\'s a considerably
more robust medium. But, my mylar is all semi-opaque. So, the idea
of printing on the reverse side doesn\'t seem like it would work
well (the image would appear cloudy).

There are service bureaus here that can make washable durable adhesive labels on
mylar, for a price. Polycarbonate is another available option. Probably
something more complicated than a laser printer...
 

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