PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[Tron]

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...

"Tron"


Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.


** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

 

[atec 7 7]

Tron wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?
there is a risk if you touch certain parts

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?
no idea , what model is it ?

 

[Tron]

"atec 7 7" <"atec 77"@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:h50r92$v86$1@news.eternal-september.org...

Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back
of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?
there is a risk if you touch certain parts

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at
the
fuses near the power supply?
no idea , what model is it ?

It's a Sony. Approx 10 years old.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Tron"
"Phil Allison"

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.


I've finally got round to doing this.

** Don't bust a gut hurrying like that - pal ....

I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

** If you are nervous about this then

DO NOT EVEN THINK OF IT !!



...... Phil

 

[Netmask]

Tron wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?


Don't do it if you haven't any knowledge or qualifications with

electrical devices. Even with the set switched off and unplugged there
are areas like the HT power supply that have large capacitors that hold
their 16KV or more voltage for a very long time. It can trigger
fibrillation of the heart.

Get a TV service person to do it - even if it is *only* a fuse. The
important question is "why did the fuse blow?" replacing it might simply
blow again and this time do some real damage.

If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

 

[Tron]

"Netmask" <netmaskSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back
of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at
the
fuses near the power supply?
Don't do it if you haven't any knowledge or qualifications with electrical
devices. Even with the set switched off and unplugged there are areas like
the HT power supply that have large capacitors that hold their 16KV or
more voltage for a very long time. It can trigger fibrillation of the
heart.

I appreciate your point. How long are we talking here? The set has been
off for weeks.

Get a TV service person to do it - even if it is *only* a fuse. The
important question is "why did the fuse blow?" replacing it might simply
blow again and this time do some real damage.

If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

 

[Government Shill #2]

On Sat, 1 Aug 2009 19:44:53 +1000, "Tron" <tron@movie.net> wrote:

"Netmask" <netmaskSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back
of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at
the
fuses near the power supply?
Don't do it if you haven't any knowledge or qualifications with electrical
devices. Even with the set switched off and unplugged there are areas like
the HT power supply that have large capacitors that hold their 16KV or
more voltage for a very long time. It can trigger fibrillation of the
heart.


I appreciate your point. How long are we talking here? The set has been
off for weeks.



Get a TV service person to do it - even if it is *only* a fuse. The
important question is "why did the fuse blow?" replacing it might simply
blow again and this time do some real damage.

If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

Do you have a partner who knows CPR?

If you don't know what you are doing, get an expert to do it.

--
Shill #2

I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God
who has endowed us with sense, reason and intellect
has intended us to forgo their use.
Galileo Galilei

 

[Brad]

On Aug 1, 5:25 pm, "Tron" <t...@movie.net> wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message

news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...



"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a  "slow  blow" type -  will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this.  I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

1. No
2. Yes.

 

[DTVAUST]

Please go away troll........

 

[|-|erc]

"Tron" <tron@movie.net> wrote

"Netmask" <netmaskSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?
Don't do it if you haven't any knowledge or qualifications with electrical devices. Even with the set switched off and unplugged
there are areas like the HT power supply that have large capacitors that hold their 16KV or more voltage for a very long time. It
can trigger fibrillation of the heart.


I appreciate your point. How long are we talking here? The set has been off for weeks.


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070925210737AAnYSHb

Capacitors / How Long can a Capacitor Hold a charge of energy?

That really depends on the impedance of the circuit around it, and its leakage rating. A really good Cap with nothing to drain off
the energy can hold the voltage for a couple of days, maybe weeks, but most caps used in radios might hold their charge for a couple
of hours if nothing is draining them

Herc

 

[Techo]

If you need to ask these basic question then you shouldn't be holding a
screw driver let alone taking the back off a set. Call a qualified repairer
and leave it alone.


"|-|erc" <h@r.c> wrote in message
news:M70dm.8821$ze1.8641@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"Tron" <tron@movie.net> wrote

"Netmask" <netmaskSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a "slow blow" type - will have the letter " T " in
front
of the amp rating.



I've finally got round to doing this. I've seen the warning on the
back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at
the
fuses near the power supply?
Don't do it if you haven't any knowledge or qualifications with
electrical devices. Even with the set switched off and unplugged
there are areas like the HT power supply that have large capacitors
that hold their 16KV or more voltage for a very long time. It
can trigger fibrillation of the heart.


I appreciate your point. How long are we talking here? The set has
been off for weeks.


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070925210737AAnYSHb

Capacitors / How Long can a Capacitor Hold a charge of energy?

That really depends on the impedance of the circuit around it, and its
leakage rating. A really good Cap with nothing to drain off
the energy can hold the voltage for a couple of days, maybe weeks, but
most caps used in radios might hold their charge for a couple
of hours if nothing is draining them

Herc

 

[KR]

On Aug 1, 5:25 pm, "Tron" <t...@movie.net> wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message

news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...



"Tron"

Buying a new set would not be an easy fix.

Surely there would be a fuse near the power supply to handle power
surges.

** Go find it and replace it, should be rated between 2 to 5 amps.

Be sure to buy a  "slow  blow" type -  will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating.

I've finally got round to doing this.  I've seen the warning on the back of
the TV that says "Do not remove cover. Electric shock."

Two questions:

1. If I have the TV unplugged, is there no risk of electric shock?

There is a risk, the CRT might still be holding voltage, and there is

SOME possibility
that other parts such as capacitors may be holding a charge still.
(enough to bite you)
I have had CRT's bite me after a couple of weeks of being
disconnected. It is NOT fun.

You do have to remove the back to check the fuse on every set that I
have seen
in the last couple of decades, though im sure someone will find an
exception.

(we did own an Astor set in the early 1970s that you could remove the
fuse without taking the back off
by unscrewing a white plastic clip on the back of the set that held
the fuse.)

Its also very possible that there are 2 fuses, one on the incoming
mains supply, and a smaller
rated one on the output B+ rail of the power supply in the set.


If you are asking these questions, you should probably not be doing
this job.

If you go ahead and do it, then I would advise removing the fuse (or
its remains as the case may be) and replacing it with an insulated
tool
an insulated tool, and not with your fingers.


The fuse should be checked with a meter, I have seen fuses fail inside
the end cap, and still look "ok" through the glass tube.

If it is blackened - then you will probably find the replacement will
do the same too, as shorted out swichmode chopper transistors or
Horizontal output transistors are a common fault and will usually
provide a dead short across the mains.

2. Do I need to take off the whole back half of the TV just to look at the
fuses near the power supply?

 

[Phil Allison]

"KR"

The fuse should be checked with a meter, I have seen fuses fail inside
the end cap, and still look "ok" through the glass tube.

** Ditto.

If it is blackened - then you will probably find the replacement will
do the same too, as shorted out swichmode chopper transistors or
Horizontal output transistors are a common fault and will usually
provide a dead short across the mains.


** AC supply fuses in TVs and PC monitors are normally required to pass the
huge current surge associated with the *de-gaussing coil * - this can
easily be 30 - 40 amps peak all on its own !!

Combined with the initial charging surge of the filter caps in the PSU makes
life pretty damn hard for a puny 20x5mm maybe 2.5 to 4 amp "T" fuse.

Also, if the degaussing thermistor becomes damaged by repeated switch on
cycles - the same AC fuse will blow.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degaussing#Degaussing_monitors

The more service jobs I see, the less simple issues relating to AC fuse
failures become.



...... Phil

 

[|-|erc]

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote >

"KR"

The fuse should be checked with a meter, I have seen fuses fail inside
the end cap, and still look "ok" through the glass tube.

** Ditto.

If it is blackened - then you will probably find the replacement will
do the same too, as shorted out swichmode chopper transistors or
Horizontal output transistors are a common fault and will usually
provide a dead short across the mains.


** AC supply fuses in TVs and PC monitors are normally required to pass the
huge current surge associated with the *de-gaussing coil * - this can
easily be 30 - 40 amps peak all on its own !!

Combined with the initial charging surge of the filter caps in the PSU makes
life pretty damn hard for a puny 20x5mm maybe 2.5 to 4 amp "T" fuse.

Also, if the degaussing thermistor becomes damaged by repeated switch on
cycles - the same AC fuse will blow.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Degaussing#Degaussing_monitors

The more service jobs I see, the less simple issues relating to AC fuse
failures become.

God dammit man, we're not talking toasters here.

Herc

 

[Martin]

"Netmask" <netmaskSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
8<- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

What do you mean by 'authorised'? There are many electronic hobbyists that
can fix TV's. You don't need a license etc.

 

[Netmask]

Martin wrote:

"Netmask" <netmaskSPAM@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
8<- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

What do you mean by 'authorised'? There are many electronic hobbyists that
can fix TV's. You don't need a license etc.


I'm talking insurance claim - you would be blown out of the water by the

insurance company if you were not 'authorised' to carry out repairs.
Check your fine print. Australia is pretty lax on regulations compared
to some parts of Europe where you can't even buy a power point socket
unless you present a license - I believe it is on the agenda for
discussion here.

 

[KR]

On Aug 3, 11:37 am, "Martin" <the_old_d...@uk.com> wrote:

"Netmask" <netmaskS...@gmail.com> wrote in message

newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...> Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...

 8<- - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - -

If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

What do you mean by 'authorised'? There are many electronic hobbyists that
can fix TV's. You don't need a license etc.

You probably do, but I doubt that many actually have

 

[KR]

On Aug 3, 1:22 pm, Netmask <netmaskS...@gmail.com> wrote:

Martin wrote:
"Netmask" <netmaskS...@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
 8<- - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - -
If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.

What do you mean by 'authorised'? There are many electronic hobbyists that
can fix TV's. You don't need a license etc.

I'm talking insurance claim - you would be blown out of the water by the
insurance company if you were not 'authorised' to carry out repairs.
Check your fine print. Australia is pretty lax on regulations compared
to some parts of Europe where you can't even buy a power point socket
unless you present a license - I believe it is on the agenda for
discussion here.

Victoria was going to do that some years back, but as far as I know,
it hasn't happened.

Would make for a good black market though if it did happen.

 

[Proteus IIV]

On Jul 23, 10:39 pm, "Bill" <billnomailnosp...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Why is this stuff a secret???

Where can I find data sheets or specifications for automotive parts such as
relays and switches? (Amperage ratings of contacts, pin and internal
component diagrams, duty rating of relays - continuous duty, etc.)

All the usual things provided by everybody else in the electrical world!

But this information is not anywhere on the internet and the only thing on
the product packaging is a part number! No ratings are on the devices
either! Just a part number...

Or is there an automotive parts manufacturer who provides this basic
information on their web site?

Example of a relay data sheet from the non-automotive world...http://www.magnecraft.com/library/section8/105A_49.pdf

WILL YOU BE USING THE STIMULUS PACKAGE FOR THAT ?

I AM PROTEUS

 

[Netmask]

KR wrote:

On Aug 3, 1:22 pm, Netmask <netmaskS...@gmail.com> wrote:
Martin wrote:
"Netmask" <netmaskS...@gmail.com> wrote in message
newsHTcm.8741$ze1.3577@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Tron wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:7bgiufF23livnU1@mid.individual.net...
8<- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
If anything happened to you your insurance would be null and void as you
are not an authorised person to do this.
What do you mean by 'authorised'? There are many electronic hobbyists that
can fix TV's. You don't need a license etc.
I'm talking insurance claim - you would be blown out of the water by the
insurance company if you were not 'authorised' to carry out repairs.
Check your fine print. Australia is pretty lax on regulations compared
to some parts of Europe where you can't even buy a power point socket
unless you present a license - I believe it is on the agenda for
discussion here.


Victoria was going to do that some years back, but as far as I know,
it hasn't happened.

Would make for a good black market though if it did happen.

It could only work at a Federal level and yes a great black market
opportunity! I don't think it will happen. You can only go so far in
trying to protect people from silly decisions. I think there is a lot of
"I'm a bloke so I can do anything mentality" in tackling a range of home
repairs.