PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[mark jb]

I'm not a cheapskate, and I would happily buy a new one except this one
has ' propper ' wooden speaker boxes and sounds a lot better than any new
ones I listened to.

How about this.
Take a step back in time, get a cassette tape to 3.5mm adaptor
(strathfield/dickies, five bucks in a discount bin), and hook up something
with radio reception. Cheap and effective; perhaps a line filter if you get
a lot of noise.

9 years, 15 hrs a day... Don't expect anything like that from new radios. Do
expect a radio that claims huge power, looks good, then read the specs and
find that the 400wRMS per channel is at 22% THD...

-mark

 

[John Riley]

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1133528450.720198.153990@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Is that any more help?

Absolutely, thanks so much, Dave.
I see it all now. I came across a site where the author plotted V against I
for a bare diode. The curve was almost vertical at one point (rather too
close to the point where it should be running.) His calculator, when 3V
supply and 3V @ 20mA LED was put in did NOT show "Zero Ohms"
for the resistor, as so many simplistic ones had done, but showed I
should put in a One Ohm resistor. So I guess that the reason for a
resistor in series with the LED is to "flatten" the V against I curve to a
safer, more linear relationship. Your last sentence "You can easily
blow a "3V" LED by putting a low resistance 3V supply across it!"
says it all. Thanks a bunch, cheers, John
ps, I'm of to Dickies in Freo on Sunday for an LED,
resistor and a new soldering iron.
(My old one has had BAD things done to it! DAMHIKT
Ive learned a lot in the last few days, thanks to everyone.


"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1133528450.720198.153990@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

John Riley wrote:
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1133506538.903648.21850@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
John Riley wrote:
Thanks so much for that Peter, you've clarified a lot for me. What I
couldn't seem to find (prolly coz it's so obvious) was what happens
when
the
voltage supply to an LED is varied, and what the spec voltage (as when
Dickie only gives one, as opposed to Altronics who give several)
actually
meant. If you increase the V over the single Dickie spec, you get more
light
until you burn it out. If you supply a lower voltage, you just get
less
light. Praps a bit like an incandescent in a way?
(except the curve of this will be considerably different?)

LEDs are not voltage operated devices, they are current operated.
Overvoltage will not kill a LED, overcurrent will. You do not change
the brightness of a LED by changing the supply voltage, you change it
by changing the current through the LED.
A LED has (essentially) a constant voltage drop across it for any given
current, and you must choose a series resistor value based on your
maximum supply voltage.
For example, a LED with a 3V drop powered by a 4.5V battery will need a
75ohm resistor to limit the current to 20mA maximum
((4.5-3)/20mA)=75ohms.
This is why cannot (or more accurately, should not) simply connect a
LED to a battery or other voltage source, as there is no resistor to
limit the current.

Thanks Dave.
I realise that it is the current that the diode uses to produce light,
but
surely the voltage is what drives the current.
Are you saying that I can't hook up any LED to my power supply and set
the
voltage as specified?
I wish I could get my head around this. Yes, if you only have a higher
voltage available, you can use a resistor to cut this voltage down to
that
specified, but if you have 3 V available and the LED has a 3 V spec, I'm
having difficulty trying to see why this would not work. Please explain


Ok, I'll try!
A power supply (or a battery for that matter) has a low output
resistance, that means it can supply a LOT of current, more than enough
to blow any LED. A standard 5mm LED might be rated at say 20mA maximum,
any more than that and you risk blowing the LED. Now if you connect a
power supply or battery directly to it without a series resistor, you
cannot control how much current it draws. It migh work, or it might
blow, you just don't know. So you need a series resistor to limit the
current to safe maximum value, not just "drop the voltage". The LED
does not "need" 3V, it is not a requirement, it just happnes to "drop"
3V when you pass current though it. The real "requirement spec" for a
diode is how much current it needs.
LEDs are non-linear devices, that means it is not easy to predict how
much current they will draw when you connect a low resistance power
supply to them.
You can easily blow a "3V" LED by putting a low resistance 3V supply
across it!

Is that any more help?

Dave

 

[Mike Blake]

"Foley U. Matthews" <pteybiesla@biegeponed.ceom> wrote in message
news:438f01ca.8906115@news.bigpond.com...

On Stardate Wed, 22 May 2002 23:50:20 GMT, fzabkar@dogdo.com.au (Franc
Zabkar) applied digits to the keyboard and routed the information from
some kind of brain (presumably), thusly:

On Thu, 23 May 2002 08:22:12 +1000, Richard Lindner
rjl@riclin.com.au> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Has anyone in Australia succeeded in activating Caller ID on a USR
Sportster Flash modem?? (firmware 12.10, 4/28/98). Although the modem
acknowledges AT#CID=0, 1 & 2 instructions, I have been unsuccessful in
reading any caller info from it.

No first hand advice, but have you seen this caller ID FAQ:

http://www.ainslie.org.uk/callerid/cli_faq.htm

It suggests that for some modems you may need to switch to voice mode,
eg AT#CLS=8 or similar.

BTW, is your modem configured for the correct country code?


-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove the 'g' from my address when replying by email.

Foley U. Matthews. there | I believe in : Paying NO voluntary taxes,
i.e.
are no e's in my true email | Lotteries, Gambling... The Executive
Producer
Visit the Ellen Foley Info | is to blame!... and perhaps, Love (is/can
be)
http://www.go.to/ellen-foley | "Fully expecting to be Hurt!"

U*h Oh !!
We got a Wally here !!

--
Regards ......... Rheilly Phoull

 

[Eric]

What you wrote proves you have never listened to a AM stereo receiver even
if it was in mono mode,

if you cant get your facts right dont reply! get some experience first.






Patrick Turner <info@turneraudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:4390FD9A.BF3EB3F0@turneraudio.com.au...


Eric wrote:

Second time lucky

part of the reason (apart from bandwidth) is a diode is used to take the
sound off the IF for a sound detector,
a diode is a non-linear device and that is were you get the problems like
distortion

Diode plus RC circuits can produce negligible distortion if the voltage
being
detected is
high, and the diode is forward biased.
Perhaps you know nothing about making such circuits, and making them
as linear as need be.

for better quality AM take a closer look at "am stereo" receiver even if
"your" radio station does not boardcast in "am stereo" the mono sound
will sound a lot better than a radio receiver made with just a (crappie)
diode for the sound detector.

Stereo AM can have the same distortion as mono AM if the detector
and the rest of the set is poor quality.

for more on "am stereo" plug it into google and do a bit of reading.

take my word for it I have made a "am stereo" using the Harris system,
it
will never sound as good as FM (well we know that already) bit it sound
heaps better than a standard AM radio. From EA magazine many years ago, I
believe Dick Smith had the kit, also Silicon Chip, (or was the Australian
electronics magazine before that ETI) come to think of it, it was ETI just
a
little bit before SC time.

No such kits are available now, and a DIYer has to think about all aspects
of AM
detection himself
now if he wants to build anything.

But there is little AM programme worth real hi-fi tuners except
the ABC amd print hadicapped stations.
Commercials playing music play mostly MP3 and processed music to
allow poor radios to get slightly better reception.

Patrick Turner.

John <sittinginthepool@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:43902C6C.DA8E0EB2@internode.on.net...
Can you get high quality or "better then average" sound out of the AM
tuner
of
a hifi system.. Typically speaking something like an AM/FM tuner going
through
an amplifier and such?

 

[Eric]

I think you are a funny guy Sir


Sir Nigel Puke-Fuui <wanker@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:1103_1133570877@Loud_Belch...
On Fri, 02 Dec 2005 21:43:48 +1030, John <sittinginthepool@internode.on.net>
wrote:

Can you get high quality or "better then average" sound out of the AM
tuner of
a hifi system.. Typically speaking something like an AM/FM tuner going
through
an amplifier and such?

Build yourself a crystal set. (Seriously). Due to the small number of

components
there is little to limit the audio bandwidth. The downside is that you must
have a
strong incoming signal and will probably need an outdoor antenna. Take the
audio
from where the headphones would normally connect.

This works. You will be pleasantly surprised.

 

[mark krawczuk]

so what if he was trolling ? dont forget phil , u wanna suk my dik ?




"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:3vcifdF14r748U1@individual.net...

"Robby"

Thanks to all who replied with genuine info



** Why didn't you explain your actual problem - dickhead ?

Just TROLLING were you ?




......... Phil

 

[Patrick Turner]

Eric wrote:

sorry I can not give you the magazine PCB number, but Dick Smith PCB number
is/was ZA1699 the PCB measures about 110mm * 145mm it has 3 IC's to it part
from the regulator HCF4016, UAF774 but the heart of the decoder was a
MC13020 (I am sure it was a Electronics Australia project.)

I purchased the blank PCB from a sale when Dick Smith had there head office
in Newmarket, corner of Khyber pass Road & Park Road it must be about 15
years ago (about 1990) give or take a few years

I converted a old AM receiver, latter on I went to buy a AM-FM (Hi-fi
looking type) tuner to add on to my stereo, switching the amplifier input
from my new AM-FM tuner to my old converted AM receiver there was a
noticeable difference in sound quality.

This sounds like splendid fun.
I am aware of the kits and have the schematics for most that were relaesed in Oz
by
EA and others.

One was even a synchrodyne using tubes in about 1955,
another later one was also a synchronous type using a chip.

Was the switch to the converted AM receiver an improvement?
I am not sure.

Patrick Turner.

Patrick Turner <info@turneraudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:4390FD9A.BF3EB3F0@turneraudio.com.au...

Eric wrote:

Second time lucky

part of the reason (apart from bandwidth) is a diode is used to take the
sound off the IF for a sound detector,
a diode is a non-linear device and that is were you get the problems like
distortion

Diode plus RC circuits can produce negligible distortion if the voltage
being
detected is
high, and the diode is forward biased.
Perhaps you know nothing about making such circuits, and making them
as linear as need be.



for better quality AM take a closer look at "am stereo" receiver even if
"your" radio station does not boardcast in "am stereo" the mono sound
will sound a lot better than a radio receiver made with just a (crappie)
diode for the sound detector.

Stereo AM can have the same distortion as mono AM if the detector
and the rest of the set is poor quality.



for more on "am stereo" plug it into google and do a bit of reading.

take my word for it I have made a "am stereo" using the Harris system,
it
will never sound as good as FM (well we know that already) bit it sound
heaps better than a standard AM radio. From EA magazine many years ago, I
believe Dick Smith had the kit, also Silicon Chip, (or was the Australian
electronics magazine before that ETI) come to think of it, it was ETI just
a
little bit before SC time.

No such kits are available now, and a DIYer has to think about all aspects
of AM
detection himself
now if he wants to build anything.

But there is little AM programme worth real hi-fi tuners except
the ABC amd print hadicapped stations.
Commercials playing music play mostly MP3 and processed music to
allow poor radios to get slightly better reception.

Patrick Turner.



John <sittinginthepool@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:43902C6C.DA8E0EB2@internode.on.net...
Can you get high quality or "better then average" sound out of the AM
tuner
of
a hifi system.. Typically speaking something like an AM/FM tuner going
through
an amplifier and such?

 

[Bob Parker]

Hi John,
As one or more people indicated, the audio bandwidth and
distortion level of a typical "hifi" tuner/receiver is pretty poor.
The manufacturers assume that people are only interested in getting
good performance from the FM section. And that's probably true most of
the time.

Bob


On Sat, 03 Dec 2005 17:09:12 +1030, John
<sittinginthepool@internode.on.net> wrote:

Well that wa rather comical..........

My original question was serious as a topic of interest. I
have a Realistic branded AM/FM tuner fed through an
Akai amplifier and 2 speakers. I'm reasonably happy with
the performance and was asking out of interest if AM can
be improved.......

But thankyou for the comical response Sir Nigel

 

[Alan Rutlidge]

"John" <sittinginthepool@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:43902C6C.DA8E0EB2@internode.on.net...

Can you get high quality or "better then average" sound out of the AM
tuner of
a hifi system.. Typically speaking something like an AM/FM tuner going
through
an amplifier and such?

I can recall an Electronics Australia project called the Homodyne Tuner (now
that will get Phil all fired up). Built one of these tuners (circa 1973 ?)
as a kit. Sounded quite a bit better than many commercial AM tuners of the
day. The only thing I hated about it was the method of tuning. It used
variable inductance coils (similar to those used in car radios of the era)
which IMHO was a bit cumbersome. Demodulation was based around a Motorola
IC and sensitivity was adequate.

The only drawback was the due to it's wide bandwidth and low selectivity,
listening at nights occasionally resulted in some distant station crosstalk
and interference. Other than that, the sound was very respectable for a
70's kit job.

Cheers,
Alan

 

[Rob]

Just upload the files to your personal webspace and give the third party
the URL. Nothing fancy required.

Yes, that is all that is required. Then people will see a list of files
which they can download. Although with Internet Explorer you can only
see a limited number of characters.

You don't need HTML experience these days, even Microsoft Word can
generate a basic HTML web page for you. All you need to do is save it
as "index.html" and upload (via FTP or IE) to your personal website.
Your ISP should have step-by-step instructions on how to do this.
Lots of ISP's also have auto-generating online website creation
software.

A Wiki is not really want you want, there would be too much mucking
around. A basic index.html web page is best.

Dave

Thanks for the replies guys. I've done the basic website set up in the
past - no probs.

Apologies - I should have mentioned that I need the capability for the third
party to "login" then download / modify & upload files. The files should not
be easily accessible to the general public - ie if someone really wants to
hack in they probably could but the files need to be generally secure.

cheers
rob

 

[swanny]

Rob wrote:

Just upload the files to your personal webspace and give the third party
the URL. Nothing fancy required.

Yes, that is all that is required. Then people will see a list of files
which they can download. Although with Internet Explorer you can only
see a limited number of characters.

You don't need HTML experience these days, even Microsoft Word can
generate a basic HTML web page for you. All you need to do is save it
as "index.html" and upload (via FTP or IE) to your personal website.
Your ISP should have step-by-step instructions on how to do this.
Lots of ISP's also have auto-generating online website creation
software.

A Wiki is not really want you want, there would be too much mucking
around. A basic index.html web page is best.

Dave



Thanks for the replies guys. I've done the basic website set up in the
past - no probs.

Apologies - I should have mentioned that I need the capability for the third
party to "login" then download / modify & upload files. The files should not
be easily accessible to the general public - ie if someone really wants to
hack in they probably could but the files need to be generally secure.

cheers
rob


That will depend on the facilities available from your web server host.

There may be a variety of security options to allow users to log into
parts of your site, the most common being directory access controls
enforced by the web server (eg apache htaccess).

 

[Eric]

OK I am sorry,

I get sick of some of the people to shoot their mouth off without learning
the fact, I did it, I got the experience, even tonight as I switch from one
tuner to the other I can see the better quality from the tuner in the set I
modified,


By the way, a diode is NOT a linear device, never has been, look at the
volt - current graph


Patrick Turner <info@turneraudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:43914ABF.3FD6A6D0@turneraudio.com.au...


Eric wrote:

sorry I can not give you the magazine PCB number, but Dick Smith PCB
number
is/was ZA1699 the PCB measures about 110mm * 145mm it has 3 IC's to it
part
from the regulator HCF4016, UAF774 but the heart of the decoder was a
MC13020 (I am sure it was a Electronics Australia project.)

I purchased the blank PCB from a sale when Dick Smith had there head
office
in Newmarket, corner of Khyber pass Road & Park Road it must be about 15
years ago (about 1990) give or take a few years

I converted a old AM receiver, latter on I went to buy a AM-FM (Hi-fi
looking type) tuner to add on to my stereo, switching the amplifier input
from my new AM-FM tuner to my old converted AM receiver there was a
noticeable difference in sound quality.

This sounds like splendid fun.
I am aware of the kits and have the schematics for most that were relaesed
in Oz
by
EA and others.

One was even a synchrodyne using tubes in about 1955,
another later one was also a synchronous type using a chip.

Was the switch to the converted AM receiver an improvement?
I am not sure.

Patrick Turner.

Patrick Turner <info@turneraudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:4390FD9A.BF3EB3F0@turneraudio.com.au...

Eric wrote:

Second time lucky

part of the reason (apart from bandwidth) is a diode is used to take the
sound off the IF for a sound detector,
a diode is a non-linear device and that is were you get the problems
like
distortion

Diode plus RC circuits can produce negligible distortion if the voltage
being
detected is
high, and the diode is forward biased.
Perhaps you know nothing about making such circuits, and making them
as linear as need be.



for better quality AM take a closer look at "am stereo" receiver even
if
"your" radio station does not boardcast in "am stereo" the mono
sound
will sound a lot better than a radio receiver made with just a (crappie)
diode for the sound detector.

Stereo AM can have the same distortion as mono AM if the detector
and the rest of the set is poor quality.



for more on "am stereo" plug it into google and do a bit of reading.

take my word for it I have made a "am stereo" using the Harris
system,
it
will never sound as good as FM (well we know that already) bit it sound
heaps better than a standard AM radio. From EA magazine many years ago,
I
believe Dick Smith had the kit, also Silicon Chip, (or was the
Australian
electronics magazine before that ETI) come to think of it, it was ETI
just
a
little bit before SC time.

No such kits are available now, and a DIYer has to think about all aspects
of AM
detection himself
now if he wants to build anything.

But there is little AM programme worth real hi-fi tuners except
the ABC amd print hadicapped stations.
Commercials playing music play mostly MP3 and processed music to
allow poor radios to get slightly better reception.

Patrick Turner.



John <sittinginthepool@internode.on.net> wrote in message
news:43902C6C.DA8E0EB2@internode.on.net...
Can you get high quality or "better then average" sound out of the AM
tuner
of
a hifi system.. Typically speaking something like an AM/FM tuner going
through
an amplifier and such?

 

[Alan Rutlidge]

"mark krawczuk" <krawczuk@dodo.com.au> wrote in message
news:439136a6$1@news.comindico.com.au...

so what if he was trolling ? dont forget phil , u wanna suk my dik ?

Apparently it's his only talent which goes back to his failed university
days. The whole torrid story has been discussed extensively over at
aus.hi-fi.

"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:3vcifdF14r748U1@individual.net...

"Robby"

Thanks to all who replied with genuine info



** Why didn't you explain your actual problem - dickhead ?

Just TROLLING were you ?




......... Phil

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 3 Dec 2005 06:56:46 +1000, "Allan" <allanaws@hotmail.com> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

"Foley U. Matthews" <pteybiesla@biegeponed.ceom> wrote in message
news:438f01ca.8906115@news.bigpond.com...
On Stardate Wed, 22 May 2002 23:50:20 GMT, fzabkar@dogdo.com.au (Franc
Zabkar) applied digits to the keyboard and routed the information from
some kind of brain (presumably), thusly:

On Thu, 23 May 2002 08:22:12 +1000, Richard Lindner
rjl@riclin.com.au> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Has anyone in Australia succeeded in activating Caller ID on a USR
Sportster Flash modem?? (firmware 12.10, 4/28/98). Although the modem
acknowledges AT#CID=0, 1 & 2 instructions, I have been unsuccessful in
reading any caller info from it.

No first hand advice, but have you seen this caller ID FAQ:

http://www.ainslie.org.uk/callerid/cli_faq.htm

It suggests that for some modems you may need to switch to voice mode,
eg AT#CLS=8 or similar.

BTW, is your modem configured for the correct country code?


-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove the 'g' from my address when replying by email.

Foley U. Matthews. there | I believe in : Paying NO voluntary taxes,
i.e.
are no e's in my true email | Lotteries, Gambling... The Executive
Producer
Visit the Ellen Foley Info | is to blame!... and perhaps, Love (is/can
be)
http://www.go.to/ellen-foley | "Fully expecting to be Hurt!"


HI,
Your replies are really hard to read, as you have the > symbol in your own
text, so there is no difference b/t your reply and the original Post.
Is there a way you can change that?
Cheers Allan

He's replying to 3 year old posts. His quoting style is the least of
his problems.

-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Alan Rutlidge"

"mark krawczuk"
so what if he was trolling ? dont forget phil , u wanna suk my dik ?

Apparently it's his only talent which goes back to his failed university
days. The whole torrid story has been discussed extensively over at
aus.hi-fi.

** It is however a completely fake story.

Quite unlike Mr Rutlidge's adventures with boys in Thiland and with DIMIA
here.



.......... Phil

 

[Alan Rutlidge]

"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:3vemqdF15fqabU1@individual.net...

"Alan Rutlidge"

"mark krawczuk"
so what if he was trolling ? dont forget phil , u wanna suk my dik ?

Apparently it's his only talent which goes back to his failed university
days. The whole torrid story has been discussed extensively over at
aus.hi-fi.


** It is however a completely fake story.

Quite unlike Mr Rutlidge's adventures with boys in Thiland and with DIMIA
here.



......... Phil

Given any good head jobs lately Toaster Boi? So the rumour goes you used
this "talent" to blunder your way through uni until such time you failed to
"deliver the goods" and that resulted in a discretionary pass being denied.

 

[Nicholas Sherlock]

David Segall wrote:

Can I send tones to emulate "Recall"

Not that I know of. When you press redial on any phone I've tried, the
controller in the phone drops the line, picks it back up again, then
plays back the last dial sequence. Ie. hang up and try again.

Cheers,
Nicholas Sherlock

 

[Rod Speed]

David Segall <david@nowhere.net> wrote:

I am writing a program that outputs DTMF tones from my computer
speakers to dial telephone numbers in my address book. I decided
to add a button to do automatic call back if the number is engaged.
The instructions in the phone book which are also here -
http://telstra-fixed.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/telstra_fixed.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=1154&p_created=1111370527&p_sid=v_z-edWh&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MyZwX3Byb2RzPTAmcF9jYXRzPSZwX3B2PSZwX2N2PSZwX3BhZ2U9MSZwX3NlYXJjaF90ZXh0PXJlY2FsbA**&p_li=&p_topview=1
say to press "Recall" then *37#. Can I send tones to emulate "Recall"

Nope.

or is it some other change of state on the phone line?

Yes, its a timed line break.

If the latter, what is it?

Its a lot simpler to just dial the number
again when you have the dialing automated.

 

[rowan194]

From memory it's 100ms in duration and it's also known as "hookflash"

You need to be able to release and grab the line, you cannot do it with
audio...

 

[Ken Taylor]

"Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:QrIkf.5664$vH5.306683@news.xtra.co.nz...

"rowan194" <googlegroups@sensation.net.au> wrote in message
news:1133726738.029271.191540@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
From memory it's 100ms in duration and it's also known as "hookflash"

You need to be able to release and grab the line, you cannot do it with
audio...


I think from memory that ATD@ is a hookflash command but then you're
hoping that the modem correctly implements it and that it suits the line
that's being used. It would be more reliable to dial again.

Cheers.

Ken


And yes, I went off on a tangent and he's using audio not a modem. Tea time,

old chap.......

Ken