PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[HH]

Actually Mike, I can't achieve what I want to do with a single pole switch, I need DPDT switching, and it can't I think, be achieved
with transistor switching.
Harry
"HH" <Harryharms@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:CPqSa.5143$OM3.3051@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
| Dear Mike,
| Firstly, thank you for your reply!
|
| I have an alarm system at my place of work, and recently, the SLA battery failed, and as our alarm system is a back to base
system,
| the Security company called out their patrol man three times over the weekend and they charge $35 per callout!! I was not notified
| until late Sunday night, and I replaced the SLA, end of problem, That is the background.
|
| I want to connect a 3.5 digit LED voltmeter (Dick Smith Cat no Q2230 across the battery, that is switched on when the mains power
is
| interrupted, so its a warning that the mains supply is interrupted. The supply current is for the LED meter is 115ma with "000"
lit,
| plus 5ma per lit segment.
| I can sketch & send you a circuit if you want.
| Thanks
| Harry
|

 

[Alex Gibson]

"Mike Pont" <mikepont@uunet.com.au> wrote in message news:3F138C16.1010300@uunet.com.au...

I'm hoping to use these units with AVR micros in a low cost telemetry
application and was wondering if i could avoid using a changeover switch
simply by using two aerials - since it is a half duplex application.

Also to avoid the problems mentioned by Greg with the "TX blasting the
RX" if I used a 315Mhz pair for one direction and a 433Mhz pair for the
other direction - would this solve the problem

It should. Maybe also seperate antennas otherwise
make sure you have protection for the rx.

Have a look at rentron.com
as he also sells these in the US
http://www.rentron.com/PicBasic/RemoteControl.htm
http://www.rentron.com/ruf-bot.htm

Alex

 

[HH]

Oh don't worry Martin, I certainly gave them a mouthful... and its not finished yet... I have refused to pay their call out fees,
and what annoyed me they sent a "technician" around on the Monday morning, and tried to charge me for the visit!!! He was amazed
that I had fixed it.. let alone diagnose what the problem was...
Harry Harms

"Martin, VK2UMJ" <vk2umj@REMOVEyahoo.com.au> wrote in message news:bfdmi0$op0$1@austar-news.austar.net.au...
| Not trying to be a smart arse here, but why don't you just issue the alarm
| monitoring company with instructions to notify a contact for low battery /
| power fail first? If they then choose to ignore this request and respond a
| patrol, then the charge is not your problem.
|
| I have worked in security for a number of years, in patrols, alarm
| technician & control room operator, and almost all modern systems report a
| low battery as just that, so unless it is a really old system there is no
| excuse for them not to advise a contact for this alarm, whilst responding
| patrols for other activations.
|
| Maybe you should also look at another monitoring company, as it seems this
| one is only interested in charging the response fee. One of the companies I
| worked for would only charge the response fee once in a 24 hour period if
| the activation was the same sector, regardless of how many times they sent
| the patrol.
|
| Martin.
|

 

[User]

May it is not the best idea to discharge battery with such high current of
3.5 digit LED voltmeter.
Just add some LV detector IC to power red LED to indicate when battery
voltage is below threshold. It will take less then 10mA and you can reduce
it even further if you will power-up LED from some oscillator.
Best Regards
Eugene
--

"HH" <Harryharms@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:qyuSa.5502$OM3.949@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

Rob,
I had this in place, but the 7812 regulator was getting very hot, I
thought due to the current draw, as the relay coil exhibited a
resistance of 186 ohms, giving a current requirement way above the safe
operating current of a 7812. I am currently looking for a
relay with a much higher coil resistance, plus after advice from Mike
Harding, I will drop the supply voltage to the 7812.

I appreciate your input..
Harry Harms

"Rob Judd" <judd@ob-wan.com> wrote in message
news:3F1A4392.5E644540@ob-wan.com...
| Harry,
|
| I saw your details in another message. Simple answer is to use a relay,
| but to have it open when the mains is available. That way, when the
| power goes off the relay closes but uses no power.
|
| Simple, eh?
|
| Rob
|

 

[Albm&ctd]

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 04:49:29 GMT, "HH" <Harryharms@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hello,
I am a newbie in the electronics field, I am an "old boy" and want a circuit for a solid state relay.
What I want to do is switch 12vdc @ 500 ma max, as a mechanical relay draws way too much current.
Any suggestions?
Harry Harms

Why not use the NC contacts of a mechanical relay when the mains fail?

Am I missing something, a brain?

Al

2003 insult page awaits your contribution
http://kwakakid.cjb.net/insult.html

 

[Paul Bealing]

Rob wrote:

"turtle" <speedturtle@mail.com> wrote in message
news:3f1936db$0$26532$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

I am looking for someone that can reprogram my replacement odometer to

read

the correct milage. The odometer is for a Suzuki Hayabusa. I have rung
various auto electricians with no solutions.
Please note that this is not illegal as I only want the odometer to read

the

correct milage as the old one read. This is a cult motorcycle and I wish

it

to be as original as possible.

Cheers
Turtle




Would a signal generator hooked into the speed sensor input work? It may
take a while.

rob


Years ago we had the same request for a Mitsubishi with a faulty

electronic dashboard. It worked out that by simulating 200 Kph it would
have taken the best part of a year to wind it around to the required
value. In the end they had the registration papers canged to document
the replacement unit.
If you go past 999999.9, an electronic odometer might not go to zero.

Regards
Paul Bealing
www.pmb.co.nz

 

[Craig Hart]

Hi..

AFAIK the circuit is just a resistive adder; however the Amiga's A520
modulator may be the best solution - available at $5 junk shops (Free Amiga
A500 included!). Just get the pinouts off the web....

BTW: You'll also need the H and V sync signals, as well as the RGB
signals...

Craig



"skozzy" <ask_me_for_my@email.address.com> wrote in message
news:3f1b7ca2_1@news.iprimus.com.au...

Does anyone have an idea of a fairly cheap device that I could take an RGB
signal and convert it to Composite. I have several video arcade machine I
want to record onto my computer via a capture card, the only usable inputs
I have is Composite and S-Video. These arcade games use RGB running the
same
frequency as a standard TV I think it's 15khz. This recording is most
likely
going to be a one
off, so I don't want to pay a high price for a device that will do the
job.

Years ago I had an Amiga Computer modulator that took a RGB signal and
output a composite, unfortunately that thing is long gone.

If you have some ideas what to use or buy please let me know.

-Andrew

 

[HH]

That's what I used, but the relay I used drew way too much current, but now I realise I needed a DPDT relay, so transistor switching
is not the answer.
I figured that I need a relay with a higher resistance coil..
HH
"Albm&ctd" <al_bmandctd@connexus.net.au> wrote in message news:3f1a7ed1.18865137@news.cis.dfn.de...
| On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 04:49:29 GMT, "HH" <Harryharms@hotmail.com> wrote:
|
| >Hello,
| >I am a newbie in the electronics field, I am an "old boy" and want a circuit for a solid state relay.
| >What I want to do is switch 12vdc @ 500 ma max, as a mechanical relay draws way too much current.
| >Any suggestions?
| > Harry Harms
| >
| Why not use the NC contacts of a mechanical relay when the mains fail?
| Am I missing something, a brain?
|
| Al
|
| 2003 insult page awaits your contribution
| http://kwakakid.cjb.net/insult.html

 

[HH]

Actually, I was going to use the LED voltmeter as an alarm so when it kicks in, I know that there is something amiss.
But I am rethinking the whole idea, and think that your idea is the best way to go..
Thanks
HH
"User" <user@_no_spam_.com> wrote in message news:kpBSa.10235$2h1.556@news02.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
| May it is not the best idea to discharge battery with such high current of
| 3.5 digit LED voltmeter.
| Just add some LV detector IC to power red LED to indicate when battery
| voltage is below threshold. It will take less then 10mA and you can reduce
| it even further if you will power-up LED from some oscillator.
| Best Regards
| Eugene
| --

 

[Chas]

The A & R 2624 was produced in the early 1960's as a high quality 5 watt
single ended valve-type output transformer. It had a primary impedance of
7000 ohms and a secondary of 15 ohms, tapped for 8, 3.7 and 2 ohms. It was
used in several RTV&H projects of the "Playmaster" series of the era,
coupled to the pentode section of a 6GW8 valve.

For the younger group, RTV&H was the former name for the now defunct EA
magazine, arguably the glory days of that publication.

Chas.

"John Mackesy" <mack@melbpc.org.au> wrote in message
news:bf3les$ksq$1@possum.melbpc.org.au...

Looks like a single-ended valve-type output transformer with multi-tapped
secondary - marked '2624.' I'd like to know what its characteristics are,
if
anyone has any old A & R data sheets around.

John Mackesy

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.502 / Virus Database: 300 - Release Date: 18/07/2003

 

[KLR]

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:21:42 +1000, Mike Harding
<mike_harding1@hotmail.com> wrote:

On 21 Jul 2003 15:27:18 -0700, grames@telstra.com (grames) wrote:

I have a third party cruise control on my car that no longer works.
The vacuum actuator and sensor are OK. I would like to build a new
control module. Does any one know of or have a curcuit for this. It
would be good to have the cruise speed set with a pot and the
appropriate brake light override etc. I imagine this can be done with
a PIC and a few components but am not smart enough to work it out. any
help or ideas would be appreciated.

Whilst the hardware electronics of a cruise control are
not too complicated the software is a bit more involved.

The last thing you want in a CC is to set it to 80kph only
to have it drop to 77 then go to 83 as it compensates
then drop to 77 as it compensates then go to 83....
This is called "hunting around set point" and is a
pain in the butt in control systems. This, and other
issues, are normally solved by implementing a
control algorithm such as a PID loop and that's where
it starts getting complicated.

Additionally there is a safety issue in that it must be
intrinsic in the design that the driver can ALWAYS
override the system and the system must ALWAYS
fail safe - it's a bit embarrassing to hit a tree at 140kph
because your CC software crashed. (Gives a whole
new meaning to the computer expression "crashed"

Spend $150 and buy a new CC from Autobarn and fit
it according to the instruction.

Agreed - too dangerous to mess around with. Lot of safety aspects
to be considered - in hardware as well as software

You also have to design such a thing so that its safe so that even the
dumbest person will not be left in trouble if the thing fails
catastrophically..

After being in a small hyundai being driven by my friend who was road
testing it after a repair and found that the accelerator stuck down
all the way to the floor (which turned out to be from the repairer
leaving a socket sitting in the air intake that moved and jammed the
throttle open) and how much trouble it was to stop the car in time to
avoid running into a major intersection at the bottom of the hill we
were going down, I wouldnt advise messing with anything like this
unless you know absolutely what you are doing.

We were ok - but as the car was his elderly mother's - it could have
been much much worse if it had failed while she was driving it - or if
anyone had panicked.








>Mike Harding

 

[Rudolf Ladyzhenskii]

Hi,

When I say "simple problem", I maen simple for a TV technician.
I am not giving directions for this TV, because I do not want to be held
responsible if you electricute yourself. Sorry.

Rudolf



"Gazza Ozzie" <gazzaozzie@hotmail.com.REMOVEIFNOTSPAM> wrote in message
news:wN2Ta.7849$OM3.7329@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

Not in Melbourne in Qld - so what is simple problem - or what
additional info is required. My TV days I only dealt with valve types.
Today I need circuit to be able to follow setup with new
semiconductors and ICs.

thanks Gazza

"Rudolf Ladyzhenskii" <rudolf.ladyzhenskii@REMOVETOREPLYadcomtech.net
wrote in message news:3f1cb535$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...


Has anyone struck this problem and know how to fix it?

Yes, TV has died. Take it to repair shop before you hurt yourself and
destroyed TV completely. Seriously.


Or does anyone know where I can get a circuit diagram for the set?

Should be a simple problem. No need for diagram here.

If in Melbourne, call me on 0414 635 468.

Rudolf




---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.502 / Virus Database: 300 - Release Date: 18/07/2003

 

[gcd]

Hi,
mitec ? if so the microwave side was taken over by codan. The military side
became another company , the name of which escapes me.

The SL1451 is a wideband pll fm detector.

try http://www.freetradezone.com/design_center/images/pdf/D0103906.pdf for
the datasheet. if you have any problem, email me and I'll email it to you

cheers
Greg
removethe noSPAM


"Min 4u.net>" <minsik@<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:3f1d0ec3@news.comindico.com.au...

Anyone got a data sheet on this IC? it seems Plessey changed hands a few
times and there doesn't seem to be a direct download place anymore. Also i
have seen SL type ic data in some sort of data book but cant think where.

This ic is a PLL demodulator in a 2ghz rx link system by Mitek which also
seems to have passed on/


minsik@"NOSPAM"4u.net

 

[Mainlander]

In article <Hw7Ta.6482$9f7.764605@news02.tsnz.net>, user@the.net says...

Someone I know has a

Fostex 4 track cassette mixer/recorder from around 1996

The power supply recently got broken physically (the casing) and he tried
hooking up the individual two wires to the DC port but something went wrong
(suspected incorrect polarity). Does this sort of thing usually fry the
machine totally or does it usually affect something that is easily fixable?

Depends on the design - I have no knowledge of this type of equipment but
suggest you post to aus.electronics and rec.audio.pro as well. Saw this
happen once on a portable cassette player - needed a new motor.

 

[dickydoo]

It may have an internal fuse.
"Mainlander" <*@*.*> wrote in message
news:MPG.1987e1b091d9d3db989a5c@news.paradise.net.nz...

In article <Hw7Ta.6482$9f7.764605@news02.tsnz.net>, user@the.net says...
Someone I know has a

Fostex 4 track cassette mixer/recorder from around 1996

The power supply recently got broken physically (the casing) and he
tried
hooking up the individual two wires to the DC port but something went
wrong
(suspected incorrect polarity). Does this sort of thing usually fry the
machine totally or does it usually affect something that is easily
fixable?

Depends on the design - I have no knowledge of this type of equipment but
suggest you post to aus.electronics and rec.audio.pro as well. Saw this
happen once on a portable cassette player - needed a new motor.

 

[Ken Taylor]

"gcd" <gcdnoSPAM@austarmetro.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f1d1465@news.comindico.com.au...

Hi,
mitec ? if so the microwave side was taken over by codan. The military
side
became another company , the name of which escapes me.

Paul at Mitec would have been the designer of that link, and I believe he
still does some work for the new microwave group. Contact Codan and ask the
question if you can't get the required info elsewhere.

Ken

The SL1451 is a wideband pll fm detector.

try http://www.freetradezone.com/design_center/images/pdf/D0103906.pdf for
the datasheet. if you have any problem, email me and I'll email it to you

cheers
Greg
removethe noSPAM


"Min 4u.net>" <minsik@<NOSPAM> wrote in message
news:3f1d0ec3@news.comindico.com.au...
Anyone got a data sheet on this IC? it seems Plessey changed hands a few
times and there doesn't seem to be a direct download place anymore. Also
i
have seen SL type ic data in some sort of data book but cant think
where.

This ic is a PLL demodulator in a 2ghz rx link system by Mitek which
also
seems to have passed on/


minsik@"NOSPAM"4u.net

 

[RK]

"Mainlander" <*@*.*> wrote in message
news:MPG.1987e1b091d9d3db989a5c@news.paradise.net.nz...

In article <Hw7Ta.6482$9f7.764605@news02.tsnz.net>, user@the.net says...
Someone I know has a

Fostex 4 track cassette mixer/recorder from around 1996

The power supply recently got broken physically (the casing) and he
tried
hooking up the individual two wires to the DC port but something went
wrong
(suspected incorrect polarity). Does this sort of thing usually fry the
machine totally or does it usually affect something that is easily
fixable?

Depends on the design - I have no knowledge of this type of equipment but
suggest you post to aus.electronics and rec.audio.pro as well. Saw this
happen once on a portable cassette player - needed a new motor.

Thanks!

 

[Ross Herbert]

Gazza Ozzie wrote:

I have a GEC Model 14GP220A which had just stopped working. When I
turn on the power and press the power button on the front the red
power led lights up and then goes off and the TV remains dead. it does
not even appear to be in standby mode. Pressing buttons on front of
set or remote control has no effect. Every time I press power button
on front, the red led comes on and slowly goes out.

Has anyone struck this problem and know how to fix it?

Or does anyone know where I can get a circuit diagram for the set?

--
Cheers
Gazza


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.502 / Virus Database: 300 - Release Date: 18/07/2003

According to my info this model uses Thomson TX80/5 chassis.

I found this page http://www.avrepair.info/faults/TN016465.HTM relating
to symptoms on this chassis and some seem similar in nature to yours.

Ross Herbert

 

[Boz]

Umm, I managed to get a socket jammed in the throttle body area of a Porsche
944 Turbo S a few years back - my car, my fault, and it jammed on full
throttle in 2nd gear.

Brakes were not enough, I was lucky and managed to turn off the ignition
before hittng anything...........

I love the idea of aftermarket crusie control for those cars that don't have
(like the P-Car) but would be VERY careful about the installation.........

Boz


"KLR" <kreed@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news51phv8gljc0lqhf73e1f2q2rcnlsvthmt@4ax.com...

On Tue, 22 Jul 2003 09:21:42 +1000, Mike Harding
mike_harding1@hotmail.com> wrote:

On 21 Jul 2003 15:27:18 -0700, grames@telstra.com (grames) wrote:

I have a third party cruise control on my car that no longer works.
The vacuum actuator and sensor are OK. I would like to build a new
control module. Does any one know of or have a curcuit for this. It
would be good to have the cruise speed set with a pot and the
appropriate brake light override etc. I imagine this can be done with
a PIC and a few components but am not smart enough to work it out. any
help or ideas would be appreciated.

Whilst the hardware electronics of a cruise control are
not too complicated the software is a bit more involved.

The last thing you want in a CC is to set it to 80kph only
to have it drop to 77 then go to 83 as it compensates
then drop to 77 as it compensates then go to 83....
This is called "hunting around set point" and is a
pain in the butt in control systems. This, and other
issues, are normally solved by implementing a
control algorithm such as a PID loop and that's where
it starts getting complicated.

Additionally there is a safety issue in that it must be
intrinsic in the design that the driver can ALWAYS
override the system and the system must ALWAYS
fail safe - it's a bit embarrassing to hit a tree at 140kph
because your CC software crashed. (Gives a whole
new meaning to the computer expression "crashed"

Spend $150 and buy a new CC from Autobarn and fit
it according to the instruction.


Agreed - too dangerous to mess around with. Lot of safety aspects
to be considered - in hardware as well as software

You also have to design such a thing so that its safe so that even the
dumbest person will not be left in trouble if the thing fails
catastrophically..

After being in a small hyundai being driven by my friend who was road
testing it after a repair and found that the accelerator stuck down
all the way to the floor (which turned out to be from the repairer
leaving a socket sitting in the air intake that moved and jammed the
throttle open) and how much trouble it was to stop the car in time to
avoid running into a major intersection at the bottom of the hill we
were going down, I wouldnt advise messing with anything like this
unless you know absolutely what you are doing.

We were ok - but as the car was his elderly mother's - it could have
been much much worse if it had failed while she was driving it - or if
anyone had panicked.








Mike Harding

 

[Gazza Ozzie]

Thanks Ross will try their tips.
cheers
Gazza

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:JyqTa.9404$OM3.7278@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Gazza Ozzie wrote:

I have a GEC Model 14GP220A which had just stopped working. When I
turn on the power and press the power button on the front the red
power led lights up and then goes off and the TV remains dead. it
does
not even appear to be in standby mode. Pressing buttons on front of
set or remote control has no effect. Every time I press power button
on front, the red led comes on and slowly goes out.

Has anyone struck this problem and know how to fix it?

Or does anyone know where I can get a circuit diagram for the set?

--
Cheers
Gazza


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.502 / Virus Database: 300 - Release Date: 18/07/2003

According to my info this model uses Thomson TX80/5 chassis.

I found this page http://www.avrepair.info/faults/TN016465.HTM
relating
to symptoms on this chassis and some seem similar in nature to yours.

Ross Herbert



---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.502 / Virus Database: 300 - Release Date: 18/07/2003