PC Power supply

[Charlie Bress]

My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately he is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.

IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an input to the
supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What controls it?

I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair electronic
devices, but I have never come across this situation.

Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?


Thanks,

Charlie

 

[James Sweet]

"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:LaWdnZ7oG-3cjo_VnZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com...

My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately he is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the
mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.

IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an input to the
supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What controls
it?

I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair electronic
devices, but I have never come across this situation.

Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?


Thanks,

Charlie

The light is simply wired to the standby output of the PSU.

I've seen bad motherboards cause this, could also be the power button or the
wiring between that and the motherboard. The other time I saw this the
graphics card was not fully inserted in the slot.

 

[James Sweet]

"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:LaWdnZ7oG-3cjo_VnZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com...

My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately he is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the
mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.

IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an input to the
supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What controls
it?

I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair electronic
devices, but I have never come across this situation.

Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?


Thanks,

Charlie

The light is simply wired to the standby output of the PSU.

I've seen bad motherboards cause this, could also be the power button or the
wiring between that and the motherboard. The other time I saw this the
graphics card was not fully inserted in the slot.

 

[Charlie Bress]

"Tim" <tim@tim.tim> wrote in message
news:MPG.227bfabd7a5f7379896f4@news.aliant.net...

In article <2FoQj.7$1m3.5@trndny02>, jamessweet@hotmail.com says...


"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:LaWdnZ7oG-3cjo_VnZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately he
is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new
replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on
the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the
mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.

IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an input to
the
supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What controls
it?

I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair electronic
devices, but I have never come across this situation.

Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?


Thanks,

Charlie



The light is simply wired to the standby output of the PSU.

I've seen bad motherboards cause this, could also be the power button or
the
wiring between that and the motherboard. The other time I saw this the
graphics card was not fully inserted in the slot.



I have seen that symptom caused by bad RAM, overclocking the CPU,
corrupt BIOS. Sometimes a bad PSU will pop the MB's regulation system
too. You will find that most E-machines are considered disposable due to
the their low cost. Make sure the replacement PSU is pin compatible with
the old one. Just because the connectors are the same, doesn't mean the
the pins are carrying the same voltages.

I would remove all cards (not RAM) so the system is bare bones, and see
if it generates a no video card error. At least you know the system is
doing POST (Pre Operating System Tests) at that point. You can also try
to move the RAM to a different slot, as failure with ram in the first 64
megs or so will cause the system to refuse to do POST. Sometimes moving
it will clean flaky contacts. The ram should run in any slot, providing
it meets the specs for that slot. Some MBs have 2 different kinds of
slots on the same board. Of course if the ram is bad, then it may not
boot at all.

I had one guy complain that the system he built would come on then
immediately go off, so it *had* to be defective cpu or the like. It
turned out that he had not mounted the CPU heatsink and fan properly,
and it was up on one side. The cpu heated up very quickly, and shut the
system down to protect itself. Gotta love those AMD CPU safeguards. Once
the problem was rectified, the computer ran like a charm, and he is
still using it today.

- Tim -

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

BTW when I was growing up with the PC-AT, POST was Power On Self Test.

Charlie

 

[dBc]

Greetings Charlie & others..

Regarding:
"My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up.
Unfortunately he is around 100 miles away so I do not have more
information."

In spite of a good deal of speculation here which VERY well may
be right on the mark with the anomaly, until which time that
someone (you) can put your hands in that PC to isolate what is
causing the issues - it's guess work at best. Especially at 100
miles of distance.

Something to consider, what is your time worth to fuss with it
vs. doing what Baron, Tim & Adrian suggest in just replacing the
motherboard & CPU. This is presupposing that this system is not
under warranty. Now days, with mail-order and fast delivery what
it is, it usually doesn't cost that much to remove and replace
the entire inside of the system. You've already got a new power
supply, consider the cost of going ahead with the rest of the
repair/upgrade. Regardless, as indicated, until it can be put on
the repair bench, it won't 'compute' on several fronts.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:LaWdnZ7oG-3cjo_VnZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
| My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up.
Unfortunately he is
| around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There
were no
| changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
| At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new
replacement
| did not help.
|
| A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single
LED on the
| M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
| On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.
|
| What are the likely causes?
|
| I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or
the mechanical
| link from the front panel to the switch.
|
| IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an
input to the
| supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What
controls it?
|
| I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair
electronic
| devices, but I have never come across this situation.
|
| Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?
|
|
| Thanks,
|
| Charlie
|
|
|
|
|
|
|

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
newsuidnUXeRNor0I_VnZ2dnUVZ_judnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Tim" <tim@tim.tim> wrote in message
news:MPG.227bfabd7a5f7379896f4@news.aliant.net...
In article <2FoQj.7$1m3.5@trndny02>, jamessweet@hotmail.com says...


"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:LaWdnZ7oG-3cjo_VnZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately
he is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new
replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on
the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the
mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.

IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an input to
the
supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What
controls
it?

I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair
electronic
devices, but I have never come across this situation.

Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?


Thanks,

Charlie



The light is simply wired to the standby output of the PSU.

I've seen bad motherboards cause this, could also be the power button or
the
wiring between that and the motherboard. The other time I saw this the
graphics card was not fully inserted in the slot.



I have seen that symptom caused by bad RAM, overclocking the CPU,
corrupt BIOS. Sometimes a bad PSU will pop the MB's regulation system
too. You will find that most E-machines are considered disposable due to
the their low cost. Make sure the replacement PSU is pin compatible with
the old one. Just because the connectors are the same, doesn't mean the
the pins are carrying the same voltages.

I would remove all cards (not RAM) so the system is bare bones, and see
if it generates a no video card error. At least you know the system is
doing POST (Pre Operating System Tests) at that point. You can also try
to move the RAM to a different slot, as failure with ram in the first 64
megs or so will cause the system to refuse to do POST. Sometimes moving
it will clean flaky contacts. The ram should run in any slot, providing
it meets the specs for that slot. Some MBs have 2 different kinds of
slots on the same board. Of course if the ram is bad, then it may not
boot at all.

I had one guy complain that the system he built would come on then
immediately go off, so it *had* to be defective cpu or the like. It
turned out that he had not mounted the CPU heatsink and fan properly,
and it was up on one side. The cpu heated up very quickly, and shut the
system down to protect itself. Gotta love those AMD CPU safeguards. Once
the problem was rectified, the computer ran like a charm, and he is
still using it today.

- Tim -

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

BTW when I was growing up with the PC-AT, POST was Power On Self Test.

Charlie

To the best of my knowledge it is still Power On Self Test.

Mike

 

[Mr. Land]

On Apr 25, 11:01 am, John <l...@sig.net> wrote:

On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 09:22:53 -0700 (PDT), "Mr. Land"

grafton...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Greetings,

When in use, a few of our home theater components heat up the interior
spaces of our entertainment center to a temperature that I feel is too
hot (yes, that's a very subjective statement).  The entertainment
center uses tall, mostly glass doors, and they are one-piece,
therefore when they are open they protrude pretty far into the room.
When they are closed, there is little-to-no ventilation inside the
cabinets.  One evening, I mustered up some courage and tried simply
leaving the doors open but sure enough, one of my kids came close to
ripping the entire door off of its hinges when she bumped into it.

I encountered a similar heating problem when putting an LCD TV in a
cabinet.  I came up a fix using a $3 PICAXE chip that is programmable
in BASIC and a $5 temperature sensor that gives the actual temperature
(in degrees C).  The sensor is mounted above the hottest point of the
TV (nothing inside any component).  It's powered by a "wall wart"
supply, so all the wiring is low voltage.  The PICAXE programming
software is a free download fromhttp://www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/

http://www.picaxe.us/AV-fan.html

You can set the on and off temperatures (in the program code) to
whatever works best for you.  A more sophisticated version would use
the PWM capability of the PICAXE chip to control fan speed, running
the fan(s) only fast enough to maintain an acceptable temperature
rise.

John

Oh, now this is nice! I've shied away from programmable
microcontrollers in the past, but this looks like something even I
could deal with, and a lot of fun. Thanks a lot for posting this
reply!!

 

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richglorytrade@yahoo.com.cn

 

[JR North]

Pyle PLRG23
I had the unit out, on the bench, troubleshooting no FM lock. AM was
fine. I had power/ground connected to the plug, which also carries the
speaker circuits. These are female connectors.The radio was on, at min
volume. I did not have speakers connected. During initial testing with a
logic probe in the tuner section, the radio shut off. I found high
current draw in the power supply, and turned it off immediately. On
checking, the radio would not power up, and drew 10A from the supply. I
determined the monolithic stereo output chip (TDA-burn) was dead short
to ground. The heatsink was quite hot.
Q:
Could the chip fry from no load connected? I'm certain I didn't short it
at the plug, and wasn't even in the output stage with my tests.
JR

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

 

[Tim Phipps]

Baron wrote:

This is a very common Emachines failure mode ! About three years old ?
M/b CPU, PSU usually. Very often other items are taken out as well.
Unfortunately the little led only means the the sb power is there.

Agreed. I don't recall the model no. but I had to deal with an
emachines pc with the same issue. Change the motherboard AND the PSU.
If you don't you'll probably find the original PSU kills the new board
as well. The cpu will probably be ok.

I used an Asrock board for no particular reason other than the job
needed doing quickly and it was what the local computer shop had in
stock. You will find that when you boot up the computer Windows XP (I
assume that is what you have) will not be happy because the motherboard
and therefore lots of onboard hardware has changed. All you need to do
to fix this is get your XP installation cd, boot up with it and do a
repair install.

--
Tim Phipps

replace "invalid" with "uk" to reply by email

 

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l be the price. Anything under $250 is probably a knock off.
From: service0005@watchec.com
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 03:53:47 -0700 (PDT)
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If all your after is a knock off so you can sport the name, it will
not be hard for you to find one. There are many Internet sites and
auction sites that claim they are selling the real luxury watches, but
are not. First clue will be the price. Anything under $250 is probably
a knock off.

Just because you find a watch on a website does not mean it is a real
luxury watch. Some knock off watches have some pretty official looking
web sites. Make sure you buy your watch from a well known dealer to
insure that you are not getting ripped off. If the only place you see
a particular watch for sale is on the Internet this may be another
sign that it is a knock off.
http://www.watchec.com
Swiss Rolex Watches Mens Rolex Watches Ladies Rolex Watches A.lange &
Sohne Watches Alain Silberstein Watches Audemars Piguet Watches Baume
& Mercier Watches Bell & Ross Watches Blancpain Watches BMW Watches
Breguet Watches Breitling Watches Bvlgari Watches Cartier Watches
Chanel Watches Chopard Watches Chronoswiss Watches Corum Watches Dior
Watches Ferrari Watches Franck Muller Watches Glashute Original
Watches Gucci Watches Hermes Watches IWC Watches Jacob & Co Watches
Jaeger LeCoultre Watches Longines Watches Louis Vuitton Watches
Montblanc Watches Officine Panerai Watches Omega Watches Oris Watches
Patek Philippe Watches Piaget Watches Rado Watches Sinn Watches Tag
Heuer Watches Tudor Watches Vacheron Constantin Watches Zenith
Watches
http://www.watchec.com

 

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[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Sunday 27 April 2008 23:47, James Sweet wrote:

I would desolder the blue cathode pin on the CRT
socket and tap the neck with the monitor on. If you can still repro the
symptoms, then the problem is probably in the tube.

Taking what bz said into account, that the Trinitron tube has a single electron
gun, doesn't this mean that if the screen turns fully blue (and not red and
green as well, meaning white), including retrace lines, that the short can
exist nowhere except inside the tube?