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pfjw@aol.com <peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:
OK. On the one hand:
Purchase new Board: US$25 + shipping
Install New Board: 2 hours work
It all works: All good!
Magnetron is bad: Purchase new Magnetron for US$65 + shipping
Install new Magnetron: 2 hours work.
It wall works: 4 hours + US$90 + shipping.
On the other hand, a brand new 1,000 watt microwave: US$150, complete with warranty.
I admire your wish to reduce landfill, but I have to wonder at the investment in a 10 year old device that is heavily used by your own description.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic
transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?
pfjw@aol.com <peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:
OK. On the one hand:
Purchase new Board: US$25 + shipping
Install New Board: 2 hours work
It all works: All good!
Magnetron is bad: Purchase new Magnetron for US$65 + shipping
Install new Magnetron: 2 hours work.
It wall works: 4 hours + US$90 + shipping.
On the other hand, a brand new 1,000 watt microwave: US$150, complete with warranty.
I admire your wish to reduce landfill, but I have to wonder at the investment in a 10 year old device that is heavily used by your own description.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
What is the reliability difference, if any between the classic
transfomer/diode/capacitors and the fancy inverter ovens?
It is all in accordance with what you want.
An \"inverter\" microwave modulates the output of the magnetron directly.
So, 50% setting means the magnetron is putting out 50% of its full
capacity, but all of the time. With a conventional microwave, that is
achieved by running the magnetron in duty/rest cycles. 100% for 50% of
the time 0% for 50% of the time. Inverter-based microwaves become far
more flexible and therefore far more useful.
Re Reliability: Our present Panasonic (inverter) is about 6 years old
and gets moderate use. It replaced a 16 year old multi-voltage BEAC we
purchased in Saudi, that is now still in minimal use by a neighbor in
his garage workshop. We keep our devices clean, make sure they get
enough air circulation, and, heaven forfend, even clean the vents
regularly!
Basic care-and-feeding is becoming a lost art.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
It is all in accordance with what you want.
An \"inverter\" microwave modulates the output of the magnetron directly.
So, 50% setting means the magnetron is putting out 50% of its full
capacity, but all of the time. With a conventional microwave, that is
achieved by running the magnetron in duty/rest cycles. 100% for 50% of
the time 0% for 50% of the time. Inverter-based microwaves become far
more flexible and therefore far more useful.
Re Reliability: Our present Panasonic (inverter) is about 6 years old
and gets moderate use. It replaced a 16 year old multi-voltage BEAC we
purchased in Saudi, that is now still in minimal use by a neighbor in
his garage workshop. We keep our devices clean, make sure they get
enough air circulation, and, heaven forfend, even clean the vents
regularly!
Basic care-and-feeding is becoming a lost art.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Farberware Classic 1.1 cu. ft .1000-Watt Microwave Oven $99.99OK. On the one hand:
Purchase new Board: US$25 + shipping
Install New Board: 2 hours work
It all works: All good!
Magnetron is bad: Purchase new Magnetron for US$65 + shipping
Install new Magnetron: 2 hours work.
It wall works: 4 hours + US$90 + shipping.
On the other hand, a brand new 1,000 watt microwave: US$150, complete with warranty.
I admire your wish to reduce landfill, but I have to wonder at the investment in a 10 year old device that is heavily used by your own description.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 00:02:34 +0100, Andrew <andy29.uk@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi, I have an NN-A554W and the transformer on the inverter board has
blown. Microwave wouldn\'t start cooking so I ran it for a moment with
the cover off, transformer did a light and smoke display and now it
smells like fireworks.
Impressive. I know how you feel:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/#burned-yam.jpg
That\'s what happened when I cooked a yam (potatoe) for 16 minutes
instead of 6 minutes. It was glowing bright red inside just before I
opened the door. The inside of my Panasonic NN-S533WF (Sensor 1300w)
microwave oven changed from white to yam colored. I tried to clean
it, but the yam color is permanently baked into the paint. The S/N
label says made in 2003. I think I received it as a present in 2005,
making it 15 years old. It works as well today as it did in 2005 with
no change in output level. That\'s one of the benefits of an inverter
oven.
I made sure the magnetron was discharged and between the two connections
I am getting 0 ohms, but I only have a basic multimeter. Between those
and the casing is open.
Try measuring again with a much better ohmmeter or preferably an ESR
meter, which will measure resistances below 1 ohm. The two terminals
on the magottron are the filament wires. Less than 1 ohm is typical
and is easily mistaken for a short circuit.
\"Magnetron Test for Opens, shorts or Insufficient Power\"
https://www.microwavespecialties.com/pdfs/E10-2010-06%20Mag%20Test%20Bulletin.pdf
The instructions are for a commerical oven, which may have more than
one magnetron inside, but the methods are the same for a home
microwave oven with only one magnetron.
This microwave is at least 10 years old with a lot of use, so how likely
is it that the transformer has just gone by itself vs the magnetron or
the small mains input board dying and taking the transformer with it?
Near zero. I haven\'t repaired too many microwave ovens and only one
inverter oven. Mostly, what I find are (in order of frequency):
1. Blown high voltage diodes.
2. Blown high voltage capacitor.
3. Blown thermal protection fuse.
4. Filthy and intermittent door interlock switch.
5. Low magentron output or dead magnetron.
I would guess I\'ve fixed about 20 mw ovens and have yet to see a blown
high voltage transformer. If the enamel coating on the torroid are
discoulored from overheating, you might have a problem with the
transformer. If it looks normal, it\'s something else.
You might want to try searching on YouTube for videos on how to
diagnose and repair microwave ovens. This looks like a good start:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBJJU4ZRh7U
The other thing is that the part number of the inverter/transformer
board is A6645M304GP, and the magnetron is a 2M236-M42. A lot of other
models seem to use boards that look identical, but not exactly the same
part number. For example I have found a site saying that this magnetron
can be used with an A66454T05AP or F66454T07AP board, which do look the
same as mine, so are they just a different revision or something or are
the differences going to be bigger?
What you\'re seeing are differences in part number because the
manufacturer sourced their magnetron from multiple (Chinese) sources.
Each source has a different part number, but are functionally and
mechanically identical. The NN-A554W is a 1000 watt oven, so any 1000
watt magnetron that mechanically fits is likely to work.
Even if I need exactly the same board, it looks like I could be chasing
a part that would work in many different models, even different brands,
if only I knew which one to look for (it seems there are no parts for my
model).
No parts? Google is your friend:
https://www.google.com/search?q=NN-A554W+oven+parts
Hmmm... are you in the UK? The Panasonic model number seems to be a
UK only 230VAC oven?
Am worried about replacing it and having the new one get instantly blown
up though.
Well, if you want an exact replacement, it would helpful if you would
supply the full model number. Is it NN-A554WB or NN-A554WF ?
If you have no clue what you\'re doing, and are lacking in basic test
equipment, I would recommend:
1. Checking the magnetron with an ohms guesser.
2. If ok, replace the Hi-V diodes and Hi-V capacitor.
3. If that doesn\'t fix it, don\'t replace the magnetron. Instead by a
replacement inverter board. It\'s one of these:
https://www.kitchenwareonline.com/panasonic-microwave-oven-hv-inverter-m3ffzz000bp-c2x13938345
https://www.kitchenwareonline.com/panasonic-hv-inverter-for-microwave-ovens-z606yba00gp-c2x15619538
4. If that doesn\'t fix it, it MIGHT be the magnetron, but I doublt
it. Magnetrons usually fade away slowly, where cooking takes longer
and longer, until it doesn\'t cook. It does not die suddenly or belch
fire. If you bought a replacement board, you\'ve probably spend more
on the repair than the oven is worth. I suggest you cut your losses
and just buy a new oven.
Farberware Classic 1.1 cu. ft .1000-Watt Microwave Oven $99.99OK. On the one hand:
Purchase new Board: US$25 + shipping
Install New Board: 2 hours work
It all works: All good!
Magnetron is bad: Purchase new Magnetron for US$65 + shipping
Install new Magnetron: 2 hours work.
It wall works: 4 hours + US$90 + shipping.
On the other hand, a brand new 1,000 watt microwave: US$150, complete with warranty.
I admire your wish to reduce landfill, but I have to wonder at the investment in a 10 year old device that is heavily used by your own description.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 00:02:34 +0100, Andrew <andy29.uk@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi, I have an NN-A554W and the transformer on the inverter board has
blown. Microwave wouldn\'t start cooking so I ran it for a moment with
the cover off, transformer did a light and smoke display and now it
smells like fireworks.
Impressive. I know how you feel:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/#burned-yam.jpg
That\'s what happened when I cooked a yam (potatoe) for 16 minutes
instead of 6 minutes. It was glowing bright red inside just before I
opened the door. The inside of my Panasonic NN-S533WF (Sensor 1300w)
microwave oven changed from white to yam colored. I tried to clean
it, but the yam color is permanently baked into the paint. The S/N
label says made in 2003. I think I received it as a present in 2005,
making it 15 years old. It works as well today as it did in 2005 with
no change in output level. That\'s one of the benefits of an inverter
oven.
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
I\'d follow these steps too, but I also have the test equipment for doing
so, but OP says they have an inverter microwave. That should scratch the
#2s off the list, which is really easy for for a traditional half-doubler
microwave oven. They have no way to test the HV section safely. Microwaves
are truly the most dangerous electronic appliances to play with.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 00:02:34 +0100, Andrew <andy29.uk@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi, I have an NN-A554W and the transformer on the inverter board has
blown. Microwave wouldn\'t start cooking so I ran it for a moment with
the cover off, transformer did a light and smoke display and now it
smells like fireworks.
Impressive. I know how you feel:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/#burned-yam.jpg
That\'s what happened when I cooked a yam (potatoe) for 16 minutes
instead of 6 minutes. It was glowing bright red inside just before I
opened the door. The inside of my Panasonic NN-S533WF (Sensor 1300w)
microwave oven changed from white to yam colored. I tried to clean
it, but the yam color is permanently baked into the paint. The S/N
label says made in 2003. I think I received it as a present in 2005,
making it 15 years old. It works as well today as it did in 2005 with
no change in output level. That\'s one of the benefits of an inverter
oven.
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
I\'d follow these steps too, but I also have the test equipment for doing
so, but OP says they have an inverter microwave. That should scratch the
#2s off the list, which is really easy for for a traditional half-doubler
microwave oven. They have no way to test the HV section safely. Microwaves
are truly the most dangerous electronic appliances to play with.
Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
I don\'t think the \"sensor\" is a gimmick.
From what I ran across somewhere, it\'s like a humidity or moisture
measurement and really did/does work. I just had a 16~17 year old GE
over-the-range type that went out that used sensor cooking and now using a
$99 counter top model (1250W Magic Chef) that doesn\'t, I miss it.
I would of replaced the GE with a current model but it\'s a 2 man job and
with ye old pandemic, I figured the $99 special will suffice for now until
an assistant is found. What\'s odd with the break down is the keypad doesn\'t
work and it\'s not the keypad or ribbon cable.
About a month before I noticed the 3-6-9 buttons wouldn\'t do anything but
all the others were fine. Then one early morning, ComEd (local power
company) cut the power for about 10 minutes which reset the clock back to
the blinking 12 (actually I think it scrolls \"Press clock to set time\") and
that was that. No more workie. It does boot, plug it in, you get the beep
and even the \"GE brings great things to life\" scrolls on the display.
Everywhere I checked for parts (figured a new/used control panel) ended up
the same \"Not in stock - No Longer Available\".
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
On Wed, 17 Jun 2020 06:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
[...]
I\'d follow these steps too, but I also have the test equipment for doing
so, but OP says they have an inverter microwave. That should scratch the
#2s off the list, which is really easy for for a traditional half-doubler
microwave oven. They have no way to test the HV section safely. Microwaves
are truly the most dangerous electronic appliances to play with.
If you don\'t know what you\'re doing, don\'t have sufficient experience,
can\'t follow advice, and are afraid of high voltage, perhaps you
really shouldn\'t be fixing microwave ovens?
I used it couple times years ago. It may also function when using slowerOn Wed, 17 Jun 2020 06:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jun 2020 00:02:34 +0100, Andrew <andy29.uk@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi, I have an NN-A554W and the transformer on the inverter board has
blown. Microwave wouldn\'t start cooking so I ran it for a moment with
the cover off, transformer did a light and smoke display and now it
smells like fireworks.
Impressive. I know how you feel:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/#burned-yam.jpg
That\'s what happened when I cooked a yam (potatoe) for 16 minutes
instead of 6 minutes. It was glowing bright red inside just before I
opened the door. The inside of my Panasonic NN-S533WF (Sensor 1300w)
microwave oven changed from white to yam colored. I tried to clean
it, but the yam color is permanently baked into the paint. The S/N
label says made in 2003. I think I received it as a present in 2005,
making it 15 years old. It works as well today as it did in 2005 with
no change in output level. That\'s one of the benefits of an inverter
oven.
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
It\'s a humidity sensor. When whatever you\'re cooking gets hot enough
to vaporize water, the \"sensor\" detects the water vapor and shuts off
the oven, usually after a short delay. The alleged advantage is that
you don\'t need to enter the cooking time or power level, but you do
need to enter the type of food:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__tYa70kRHY
I\'ve only used the sensor feature a few times. No opinion on whether
it\'s useful, or yet another useless feature.
I\'d follow these steps too, but I also have the test equipment for doing
so, but OP says they have an inverter microwave. That should scratch the
#2s off the list, which is really easy for for a traditional half-doubler
microwave oven. They have no way to test the HV section safely. Microwaves
are truly the most dangerous electronic appliances to play with.
If you don\'t know what you\'re doing, don\'t have sufficient experience,
can\'t follow advice, and are afraid of high voltage, perhaps you
really shouldn\'t be fixing microwave ovens?
Say there is a moisture detector in ther sniffing the air being pulled
from the cavity. It doesn\'t prevent a frozen pot pie from burning, it
doesn\'t prevent anything from overcooking. It doesn\'t seem to know when a
frozen sausage is transitioning from thawing to outright cooking. I really
have no idea what it\'s doing. It\'s too mysterious to take seriously.
Really old microwaves sometimes had the temperature probe- that made
sense, assuming you were into cooking a turkey in the microwave oven for
30 minutes.
Say it\'s real. Do the just modulate the cooing duty cycle? It doesn\'t seem
to speed up or slow anything down, ot at least I\'ve not found a mode that
isn\'s still time based.
What were the delicious things you could pull off with the sensor as sous
chef that just don\'t work with the magic chef?
I was approached with a friend asking how to fix their above range
microwave oven too. I want to help, but until they can read me the model #
off the door, I can\'t do much with suggestions on what the next move is.
On Wed, 17 Jun 2020 06:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
It\'s a humidity sensor. When whatever you\'re cooking gets hot enough
to vaporize water, the \"sensor\" detects the water vapor and shuts off
the oven, usually after a short delay.
On Wed, 17 Jun 2020 06:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
It\'s a humidity sensor. When whatever you\'re cooking gets hot enough
to vaporize water, the \"sensor\" detects the water vapor and shuts off
the oven, usually after a short delay.
On 18/6/20 9:50 am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jun 2020 06:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
It\'s a humidity sensor. When whatever you\'re cooking gets hot enough
to vaporize water, the \"sensor\" detects the water vapor and shuts off
the oven, usually after a short delay.
The vapor pressure of water rises very rapidly above 60 degrees C.
So presence of vapor is a good indicator of the outside temperature of
your food, even before the water starts to boil.
CH
On 18/6/20 9:50 am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jun 2020 06:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
Lol, I\'ve wondered about the \"sensor\" in these things. I know can\'t be
related to any sort of device that measures anything. Must be marketing
speak or a weirdly translated word.
It\'s a humidity sensor. When whatever you\'re cooking gets hot enough
to vaporize water, the \"sensor\" detects the water vapor and shuts off
the oven, usually after a short delay.
The vapor pressure of water rises very rapidly above 60 degrees C.
So presence of vapor is a good indicator of the outside temperature of
your food, even before the water starts to boil.
CH