OT - electric motor issue

[Smitty Two]

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

 

[James Sweet]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

 

[James Sweet]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

 

[James Sweet]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-146490.10093618042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

In article <wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

 

[James Sweet]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-146490.10093618042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

In article <wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <DN5Oj.9766$2g1.3663@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com>,
"David" <someone@some-where.com> wrote:

The rotor of an induction motor is filled with shorted
turns. This is what makes it an induction motor. If some of
those turns become open, the fault you observe will be the
result.

David

Is that a problem that you would characterize as economically repairable
on a 5 hp motor?

 

[James Sweet]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-428906.16333218042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

In article <DN5Oj.9766$2g1.3663@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com>,
"David" <someone@some-where.com> wrote:


The rotor of an induction motor is filled with shorted
turns. This is what makes it an induction motor. If some of
those turns become open, the fault you observe will be the
result.

David

Is that a problem that you would characterize as economically repairable
on a 5 hp motor?

I would assume it to require a new rotor, in which case probably not, but a
motor repair shop probably has some good used motors available. Depending on
the nature of the fault, it might be possible to fix it, I'd at least take
it in for an evaluation if you don't feel like opening it up yourself.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <6wfxtivbw1.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu>,
Sam Goldwasser <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-146490.10093618042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
In article <wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by
hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere
which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction
motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

I'd go with that. Although very unusual for a motor like this. The
rotor is just a pile of steel plates with the bars of the squirrel cage
embedded in them and welded at the ends.

Is it always the same orientation of the rotor?

I don't know that.

Another possibility is that the centrifugal or other starting switch
is somehow not closing so the starting winding is not being energized.
I don't know how rotating the shaft a few degrees could cure this though.

If I monitor an analog voltmeter on the starting caps while I cycle the
power switch until it fails to start and the breaker trips, would that
tell me whether it could be the centrifugal switch?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in
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subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:qc7i049l7sc0jioidhj3i579ipl5m93op2@4ax.com...

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 08:28:08 -0700, Smitty Two
prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Check your unloader valve.

Yeah, if you dont hear a 'hiss' when it shuts down it's very likely the
unloader valve needs attention.

--
Cheers ............. Rheilly

 

[Smitty Two]

In article
<prestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

 

[James Sweet]

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-27D2D5.22010323042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...

In article
prestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

Would this work?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008042400472150&item=10-2390&catname=electric

They have a 1750 RPM model for about $100 more, not sure which your
compressor uses.

The motor you have is probably better built, if you can figure out a fix for
the start switch.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article
<prestwhich-27D2D5.22010323042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article
prestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

Thanks again to all respondents. Tracking down a replacement centrifugal
switch was a bureaucratic nightmare of epic proportion. Cost about $42
plus shipping, so not counting time and frustration, about 1/10 the
price of a new motor of same specifications. Compressor has been up and
running fine for about a week now.

 

[Smitty Two]

In article
<prestwhich-27D2D5.22010323042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

In article
prestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and possibly
fix? TIA.

Status report: I've traced this to a malfunctioning centrifugal switch,
as suggested, but still cannot account for why a small manual turn of
the motor would "fix" that, particularly 100% of the time.

The mechanical portion of the switch seems fine, so I have to suspect
corroded contacts. Unfortunately, they're buried inside a metal shell
and all but completely inaccessible. But, one half of one of the two
contact pairs definitely shows erosion, in profile view.

I put a call into the manufacturer today to see whether parts are still
available, even though the motor is obsolete. They have to do some
research and get back to me. Failing that it looks like we'll be out
$500 or so for a new motor. That'd be a shame, given the otherwise
perfect condition of it.

Thanks again to all respondents. Tracking down a replacement centrifugal
switch was a bureaucratic nightmare of epic proportion. Cost about $42
plus shipping, so not counting time and frustration, about 1/10 the
price of a new motor of same specifications. Compressor has been up and
running fine for about a week now.

 

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[webpa]

On Apr 18, 12:41 pm, "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a need for a site that describes this procedure, thanks in
advance.

ctops.legal

If you want to make a cable with male connectors on both ends, nothing
but wire in the middle, then transfer data from one computer to
another: Not possible. Don't remember the details, but the USB
standard makes it physically impossible. There must be an active
device in the middle of the cable. But don't take my word for it.
Google "usb data transfer", etc. There are many on the market.

 

[Graham]

On Apr 18, 11:26 pm, bz <bz+...@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

"captainvideo462...@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462...@yahoo.com> wrote innews:a0af529a-e358-4577-be1a-dd107caa9e25@a70g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:

I have a need for a power meter for general low band and VHF work. I
would like it to have at least two scales. One,  a 0 - 10 W or so
scale and if possible another which would enable it to measure up to
around 125 W as well. The immediate need to satisfy the requirements
of a job we're doing is for an instrument that can measure 1.0 W at
72.0 MHZ. The signal is AM with a duration of .50 sec. and there is
some type of digital alarm transmission which modulates the carrier.
The only way I think that I can do this now is to measure the RMS
voltage accross a 52 ohm dummy load with my Boonton, and then
calculate the power. I feel though that this is clumsy and may be
potentially inaccurate. I'd love to have a Bird with all the bells and
whistles but I really can't afford one. Does anyone know of a home
brew project for doing this or even an inexpensive accurate kit?
Thanks, Lenny.

http://www.elecraft.com/mini_module_kits/mini_modules.htm

--
bz      73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+...@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu   remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

..

The signal is AM with a duration of .50 sec. and there is
some type of digital alarm transmission which modulates the carrier

That sounds like a complex transmission , measuring the incident
voltage over the 50 ohm load may be the only way , may be hire
something expensive to get a calibration chart ?

G .

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-146490.10093618042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
In article <wf4Oj.7$kt1.0@trndny06>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsrestwhich-349A04.08280818042008@news.phx.highwinds-media.com...
Our air compressor at work is powered by a 5hp, single phase, 230 volt
motor. Often when the compressor tries to start again (triggered by
falling tank pressure) the breaker trips. By rotating the motor by hand
prior to resetting the breaker, the motor will then start. Since this
happens between two and five times per day, we're getting tired of it.

The nameplate says the motor draws 24 full load amps, so I had the
electrician (who was there for another job) pull the motor off the 20
amp breaker and put it on a 30 amp. (wire gauge sufficiency verified.)

Still trips, and not knowing what else to do, I replaced the motor
starting capacitors.

That didn't fix it. So, before taking this to a motor repair shop, or
replacing it, is there anything else an idiot could look at and
possibly
fix? TIA.


The starting amps are much higher than the full load amps, for a 5HP
motor
you're probably looking at around 100A for a split second as it starts
up. I
suspect the wire run is long, or you have some resistance somewhere which
is
delaying the motor getting up to speed long enough for the breaker to
trip.
One option is to run the circuit with heavier wire, though a likely
better
option is to install an unloader valve on the compressor which will
greatly
reduce inrush. These release the pressure on the line between the
compressor
and the valve so that the motor isn't working against the tank pressure
when
it starts up. Also if you haven't changed the oil in the compressor
recently
that wouldn't hurt.

That all makes sense, but the reason I think it's an internal motor
issue is that the motor seems to have one or more spots that create hard
shorts. Rotating the motor by hand, even through 20 degrees or so,
enables restart without tripping the breaker. We've observed this
repeatedly: Once the motor stops in a given position and trips the
breaker on attempted restart, the breaker will trip repeatedly until the
motor is rotated, and then it will always start without tripping the
breaker. Is my logic faulty?

That's interesting, I've never seen a fault like that in an induction motor.
It really does sound like a problem with the motor itself. If a specific
position causes the breaker to trip I would suspect the rotor is damaged,
there's not much to these but I suppose it's possible.

I'd go with that. Although very unusual for a motor like this. The
rotor is just a pile of steel plates with the bars of the squirrel cage
embedded in them and welded at the ends.

Is it always the same orientation of the rotor?

Another possibility is that the centrifugal or other starting switch
is somehow not closing so the starting winding is not being energized.
I don't know how rotating the shaft a few degrees could cure this though.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

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