OT: Best Stud Locator?

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 15:23:08 +1100, Sylvia Else
<sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:

On 3/04/2014 1:55 AM, George Herold wrote:

My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the
dry wall thicker? Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the
dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it
bumps into joist. (Hey you really need a joist finder :^)

Last time I had to attach to ceiling joists (something sufficiently
heavy that I didn't want mistakes) I climbed into the ceiling space
(it's horrible up there!), and made small holes through the board,
either side of the joist.

You can also just drill a small hole next to the joist and leave the
drill bit in the hole. Go downstairs and pull it through. Remember
which side of the joist the hole is on, though. ;-)

Of course, this all assumes that you have access to the space above.

 

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 14:17:50 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
<langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 23.14.33 UTC+2 skrev Jim Thompson:
On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 14:11:26 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen

langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:



Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 22.14.59 UTC+2 skrev mrob...@att.net:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:



One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave



one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other



walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.







I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge



bringing everything up to code, or something like that?





I know here any substantial remodel has to done to current code.

Maybe with a remodel you can "reuse" the original building permit?



[snip]



The remodel game is to avoid what many places, such as Santa Barbara,

CA, where most of the houses are labeled by the government goons as

"historic". You can't tear down a "historic" building, but you can

"remodel" it ;-)


but wouldn't you have to leave it pretty much identical on the outside?

Sometimes. If the owner ever took money from a "preservation" society
or government (or a tax abatement for being "historic"), they're
screwed. Otherwise, they're probably OK.

 

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 00:12:37 -0500, "Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com>
wrote:

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message
news:5vpmj9h7gam0r1vpl0i96tb376cct6sdjb@4ax.com...

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

"Rafters" are what keeps the roofing out of the attic. "Joists" are
what keeps the attic out of the livingroom. ;-)

 

[John Larkin]

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 15:23:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address>
wrote:

On 3/04/2014 1:55 AM, George Herold wrote:

My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the
dry wall thicker? Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the
dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it
bumps into joist. (Hey you really need a joist finder :^)

Last time I had to attach to ceiling joists (something sufficiently
heavy that I didn't want mistakes) I climbed into the ceiling space
(it's horrible up there!), and made small holes through the board,
either side of the joist.

Sylvia.

I sometimes drill a row of holes and mark the ones that hit wood. Patch it
later.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation

 

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 16:35:55 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
<langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

Den mandag den 7. april 2014 01.21.11 UTC+2 skrev k...@attt.bizz:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2014 14:38:54 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com

wrote:



On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 11:25:25 -0700 (PDT),

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:



http://www.builderonline.com/construction/studs-at-24-inch-spacing.aspx



That author is a jackass moron too, a complete retarded idiot

with absolutely no sense of cause and effect. The primary

reason for going 24"OC is to reduce thermal shorts by 30%,

that would be two studs in 4 ft versus 3 (duh).



Perhaps it would be helpful if you would refer to the original

problem, which was your suggestion that Jim simply measure 16" from

some unspecified starting point, in order to locate the studs upon

which he can hang his heavy power tools. My only comment was to

suggest that not all houses are built on 16" centers and that it might

be better to use a stud finder instead of a tape measure.



There's

more I could tell you about it, but you and some others

around here are getting so smug, I won't.



Please don't.



Incidentally, there are other ways to do framing on both 16" and 24"

centers.

https://www.pcc.edu/about/events/sustainability-training/documents/advanced-wall-framing.pdf



Oddity: Despite the studs usually being on 16" centers, bathroom

towel racks are most commonly available in 24" lengths. I find myself

buying the 24" variety and cutting them down to 16", or adding a

horizontal firebreak just for the towel rack.



I won't add a firebreak, but if I have a wall open that I may later

want to hang a towel bar (or cabinets, or...), I will add a 2x8,

upright, on that wall to give it something to bite into. It's too

much work to open the wall to do it, so I just mount one end on

sheetrock. If it fails, then I'll add the 2x8. They usually don't

(no kids in the house anymore). ;-)


don't know if it is code but I think almost everything here is two layers
of sheet rock, or sheet rock over plywood

That was the other choice. 5/8" Sheetrock/FC on the garage side, 1/2"
Sheetrock/FC on both sides, or two layers of normal Sheetrock on the
garage side.

 

[Clifford Heath]

On 07/04/14 10:15, John Larkin wrote:

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 15:23:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address
wrote:

On 3/04/2014 1:55 AM, George Herold wrote:

My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the
dry wall thicker? Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the
dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it
bumps into joist. (Hey you really need a joist finder :^)

Last time I had to attach to ceiling joists (something sufficiently
heavy that I didn't want mistakes) I climbed into the ceiling space
(it's horrible up there!), and made small holes through the board,
either side of the joist.

Sylvia.

I sometimes drill a row of holes and mark the ones that hit wood. Patch it
later.

That's the butcher's approach . Drill one hole beside where the stud
is, and use a right-angled wire probe. Rotate it until the tip touches
the stud inside, note the angle, and repeat that angle after withdrawing
the wire. Now you know within a few mm where one side of the stud is, so
you can fix a strong anchor right in the middle of the stud - and you
only have one small hole to patch.

 

[RosemontCrest]

On 4/6/2014 5:10 PM, krw@attt.bizz wrote:

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 00:12:37 -0500, "Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com
wrote:



"Jim Thompson" wrote in message
news:5vpmj9h7gam0r1vpl0i96tb376cct6sdjb@4ax.com...

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

"Rafters" are what keeps the roofing out of the attic. "Joists" are
what keeps the attic out of the livingroom. ;-)

You continue to demonstrate your ignorance. In a vaulted ceiling,
rafters are what keep the roof from falling into the living area. I
suppose that you are too ignorant to have considered vaulted ceilings.

Feel free to reply to the newsgroups, but don't bother responding to me.
Both you and bloggs share the same room in the Loony Bin; I will not see
your reply.

 

On Sun, 06 Apr 2014 17:34:15 -0700, RosemontCrest
<rosemontcrest.deletethis@yahoo.com> wrote:

On 4/6/2014 5:10 PM, krw@attt.bizz wrote:
On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 00:12:37 -0500, "Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com
wrote:



"Jim Thompson" wrote in message
news:5vpmj9h7gam0r1vpl0i96tb376cct6sdjb@4ax.com...

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

"Rafters" are what keeps the roofing out of the attic. "Joists" are
what keeps the attic out of the livingroom. ;-)

You continue to demonstrate your ignorance. In a vaulted ceiling,
rafters are what keep the roof from falling into the living area. I
suppose that you are too ignorant to have considered vaulted ceilings.

No, I just didn't bother thinking up all exceptions for pedantic
loons.

Feel free to reply to the newsgroups, but don't bother responding to me.
Both you and bloggs share the same room in the Loony Bin; I will not see
your reply.

You're lying, obviously. All lefties are liars. It's in their DNA.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2014-04-07, krw@attt.bizz <krw@attt.bizz> wrote:

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 00:12:37 -0500, "Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com


Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

"Rafters" are what keeps the roofing out of the attic. "Joists" are
what keeps the attic out of the livingroom. ;-)

The joists hold up the ceiling battens, which are what the
ceiling lining (of what ever type) is attached to. that's what a stud finder
will find if used overhead.



--
umop apisdn


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 20:14:59 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other
walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.

I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge
bringing everything up to code, or something like that?

Like all such regulations, it's a compromise between wanting to bring
everything up to code, and the realities of affordable housing. My
area (San Lorenzo Valley, CA) is full of antiquated houses, many of
which are in lousy condition. Were the county to require that they be
brought up to current code, nobody could afford to repair or remodel
their houses. One has to draw the dividing line between building a
replacement home and a remodel somewhere. The arrangement makes
rebuilding a rotting old home affordable and helps prevent the area
from turning into a decrepit slum.

I left out some details for such remodels. No expansion of the
foundation allowed. It has to be a load bearing outside wall. These
requirements somewhat limits the ability to build a new house that
surrounds the old house.

The permit costs are much less for such remodels. At this time, the
non-construction related costs for a new house in the county is about
$30,000 in services, fees, and deposits. A remodel (that does not add
any bedrooms) can be done for about $2,000 in fees and possibly no
deposits. If you want better numbers, here's the county's fee
estimator:
<http://www.sccoplanning.com/PlanningHome/BuildingSafety/Fees/BuildingPermitFeeEstimateWorksheet.aspx>
Add to that $5,000 for a new water meter connection and a $2,500
deposit:
<http://www.slvwd.com/Rates.pdf>
Disclosure: I used to do some local real estate speculation.

(...)

Some people I know bought a house that was in very dire need of interior
remodeling and repair. They took photos of each room before they did
anything. After remodeling, they printed one photo of each room in 4x5
or so and hung them in their respective rooms.

Taking photos is somewhat standard procedure these days. The
incentive is NOT for future remodeling, but rather for settling
arguments over the quality of the work with the contractors, arguments
with the building inspector, or arguments with the home owner when the
work doesn't quite match the plans. It's common for the contractor to
setup a "security" camera for the entire site that snaps one photo
every minute, just to prove that they didn't dump any water or waste.

I don't know about hanging a photo of the inside of the wall in each
room. I would need about 30 photos to cover the inside of my house
and probably 10 more for the outside. For the alleged benefits, the
cost in picture frames and color prints might be a bit on the high
side. I suggest a photo album or web page instead.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[whit3rd]

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 5:29:54 PM UTC-7, Robert Macy wrote:

On Wed, 02 Apr 2014 17:13:05 -0700, Phil Hobbs <hobbs@electrooptical.net

wrote:

If I were hanging heavy stuff, I sure wouldn't rely on a screw into a
rafter.

not sure, but vaguely remember that a 1/4 inch lug bolt driven at least 1,
or 1 1/2 inch into a stud will hold over 80 pounds. That may be shear
strength and NOT straight pull strength, though.

Finding wood doesn't necessarily mean finding a rafter or stud; sometimes
a ceiling is screwed into thin (furring strips) stuff instead.
If you can get into the crawlspace, attach a plate to known structure,
and drop threaded rod from that, it'll support real loads. If you
can't get above the ceiling, chop a 2x2 foot hole and poke your head up.
Drywall is easy to patch when all is done.

 

[whit3rd]

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 2:59:35 PM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 07:38:00 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader

presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

Ha "without compromising strength". Do they also suggest use of use 1/4"
sheetrock too? It won't compromise strength.

All the drywall in this area has been 5/8" since about 1970. There is
some 1/2" drywall in older buildings. The local lumber yards don't
even stock 1/2" drywall any more. I've never even seen 1/4" drywall.

Quarter-inch drywall is a specialty item, usually used as a smooth cover layer
glued atop nailed/screwed drywall. You can also bend it to make a curve,
and two or three layers of the stuff is how a circular staircase (for instance) is
covered.

 

On Sunday, April 6, 2014 8:33:28 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:

On 07/04/14 10:15, John Larkin wrote:

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 15:23:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address

wrote:



On 3/04/2014 1:55 AM, George Herold wrote:



My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the

dry wall thicker? Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the

dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it

bumps into joist. (Hey you really need a joist finder :^)



Last time I had to attach to ceiling joists (something sufficiently

heavy that I didn't want mistakes) I climbed into the ceiling space

(it's horrible up there!), and made small holes through the board,

either side of the joist.



Sylvia.



I sometimes drill a row of holes and mark the ones that hit wood. Patch it

later.



That's the butcher's approach . Drill one hole beside where the stud

is, and use a right-angled wire probe. Rotate it until the tip touches

the stud inside, note the angle, and repeat that angle after withdrawing

the wire. Now you know within a few mm where one side of the stud is, so

you can fix a strong anchor right in the middle of the stud - and you

only have one small hole to patch.

Ummmm, wall could be stuffed with insulation and you can't really rotate the wire...

 

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 8:29:47 AM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:

On 08/04/14 13:04, bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Sunday, April 6, 2014 8:33:28 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:

On 07/04/14 10:15, John Larkin wrote:



On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 15:23:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address



wrote:







On 3/04/2014 1:55 AM, George Herold wrote:







My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the



dry wall thicker? Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the



dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it



bumps into joist. (Hey you really need a joist finder :^)







Last time I had to attach to ceiling joists (something sufficiently



heavy that I didn't want mistakes) I climbed into the ceiling space



(it's horrible up there!), and made small holes through the board,



either side of the joist.







Sylvia.







I sometimes drill a row of holes and mark the ones that hit wood. Patch it



later.







That's the butcher's approach . Drill one hole beside where the stud



is, and use a right-angled wire probe. Rotate it until the tip touches



the stud inside, note the angle, and repeat that angle after withdrawing



the wire. Now you know within a few mm where one side of the stud is, so



you can fix a strong anchor right in the middle of the stud - and you



only have one small hole to patch.



Ummmm, wall could be stuffed with insulation and you can't really rotate the wire...



You can get the original hole within 1cm just by knocking on the wall

with your knuckle. No wall insulation I've ever seen would stop such a

small motion of a wire.

Obviously you are not aware of the modern, and better, foam insulation systems and SIPS. Your method will be steadfast in a shack or 70-80s era hovel, but generally inapplicable to the more sophisticated market.

 

David Platt <dplatt@coop.radagast.org> wrote:

mroberds@att.net wrote:
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the
other walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.

I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you
dodge bringing everything up to code, or something like that?

Here in California, for the past few decades, property tax rates have
been controlled by "Proposition 13". This proposition (a citizens'
amendement to the California Constitution) limits the rate at which a
property's tax assessments can rise.

I had heard of Proposition 13 and its effects before, but I hadn't
thought about how it would be replied to remodels. It makes some sense.

When I lived in Oklahoma, they had something similar - the value that
you were taxed on was was only allowed to go up by 5% per year. If the
assessed value was $100,000 last year, and this year they decided that
the value was $107,000, you'd only pay taxes on $105,000 this year and
then $107,000 the next year (assuming it didn't go up again next year).
There were also a tax break that anybody could get for their primary
residence, and another one for older people.

As far as I could tell, they seemed to prefer cranking up the values on
all properties by a couple of percent each year, and avoided having a
big assessed value jump when the property changed hands. It probably
also helped that for some reason, land values in Oklahoma don't rise as
fast as those in California.

Where I lived, remodels tended to consist of re-doing existing rooms one
or two at a time, so tax considerations weren't a big factor. As a
reference, the property tax in 2014 for a $100,000 house would be on the
order of $1,200.

Matt Roberds

 

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

Were the county to require that they be brought up to current code,
nobody could afford to repair or remodel their houses.

Would a big chunk of that cost be for seismic retrofits, or is it just
lots of little things (GFCIs/AFCIs, low-flow fixtures, etc) that pile
up?

No expansion of the foundation allowed. It has to be a load bearing
outside wall.

Has anybody ever tried something like this?
http://www.rosinpreservation.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/wst-12.jpg
(The Wall Street Tower, ex Mercantile Bank and Trust Company, in Kansas
City, MO.)

At this time, the non-construction related costs for a new house in
the county is about $30,000 in services, fees, and deposits.

Yow! I know it's not zero around here, but I'm pretty sure it's less
than that. (Your average new-build tract house, 3 bed, 2 bath, 2 car
garage, 1500 square feet +/-, in a neighborhood where you don't have
to return fire very often, probably starts somewhere around $120,000 -
that's the building, land, everything.)

I don't know about hanging a photo of the inside of the wall in each
room.

They just hung one photo of the entire room. It wasn't for finding the
studs and stuff later - it was more of a showoff and/or reminder of the
work that had been done on the house.

Matt Roberds

 

[Clifford Heath]

On 08/04/14 13:04, bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Sunday, April 6, 2014 8:33:28 PM UTC-4, Clifford Heath wrote:
On 07/04/14 10:15, John Larkin wrote:

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 15:23:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address

wrote:



On 3/04/2014 1:55 AM, George Herold wrote:



My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the

dry wall thicker? Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the

dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it

bumps into joist. (Hey you really need a joist finder :^)



Last time I had to attach to ceiling joists (something sufficiently

heavy that I didn't want mistakes) I climbed into the ceiling space

(it's horrible up there!), and made small holes through the board,

either side of the joist.



Sylvia.



I sometimes drill a row of holes and mark the ones that hit wood. Patch it

later.



That's the butcher's approach . Drill one hole beside where the stud

is, and use a right-angled wire probe. Rotate it until the tip touches

the stud inside, note the angle, and repeat that angle after withdrawing

the wire. Now you know within a few mm where one side of the stud is, so

you can fix a strong anchor right in the middle of the stud - and you

only have one small hole to patch.

Ummmm, wall could be stuffed with insulation and you can't really rotate the wire...

You can get the original hole within 1cm just by knocking on the wall
with your knuckle. No wall insulation I've ever seen would stop such a
small motion of a wire.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 16:09:46 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
Were the county to require that they be brought up to current code,
nobody could afford to repair or remodel their houses.

Would a big chunk of that cost be for seismic retrofits, or is it just
lots of little things (GFCIs/AFCIs, low-flow fixtures, etc) that pile
up?

I'm not sure. No seismic retrofits, but plenty of small stuff. A new
toilet is a given. In Ben Lomond, the local fire department demands a
sprinkler system on new construction and major remodels.

No expansion of the foundation allowed. It has to be a load bearing
outside wall.

Has anybody ever tried something like this?
http://www.rosinpreservation.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/wst-12.jpg
(The Wall Street Tower, ex Mercantile Bank and Trust Company, in Kansas
City, MO.)

No. The local ground loading would not tolerate a foundation where
the entire load is concentrated at 4 points. On my clay hillside, I'm
limited to 1000 lbs/sq-ft and I'm very close.

At this time, the non-construction related costs for a new house in
the county is about $30,000 in services, fees, and deposits.

Yow! I know it's not zero around here, but I'm pretty sure it's less
than that. (Your average new-build tract house, 3 bed, 2 bath, 2 car
garage, 1500 square feet +/-, in a neighborhood where you don't have
to return fire very often, probably starts somewhere around $120,000 -
that's the building, land, everything.)

The lowest price 3 bedroom house for sale in the area is about
$400,000.
<http://www.zillow.com/homedetails/135-Rowardennan-Dr-Ben-Lomond-CA-95005/16154738_zpid/>
Property taxes will be about 2% plus fees or about $8,000/year. Most
residents cannot afford to buy their own house because of the property
tax increase (another side effect of Prop 13).

I have a few spreadsheets showing the county fees and deposits for
various types of construction. The costs are reather depressing. A
new house runs about $30,000 for the county and the water district. A
small remodel is about $500 to $2,000. The things we were discussing
falls in between. Add about $7,000 if the house is in an ecologically
or archeologically sensitive area.

Expensive bureaucracy is the price of living in paradise.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 20:14:59 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net Gave us:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other
walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.

I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge
bringing everything up to code, or something like that?

You missed the point, I think.

"Remodeling" a home, in many states revolves around law and cost.

It is cheaper to remodel than to build anew, and leaving one wall
standing is "not razed". Building anew has huge costs and even the
razing requires post clearing/pre-construction inspection(s) in some
states.

So, the "one wall standing" thing is just semantics for a claim that
the house remains and is being remodeled.

 

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 1:06:06 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 8 Apr 2014 16:09:46 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:


Has anybody ever tried something like this?

http://www.rosinpreservation.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/wst-12.jpg

(The Wall Street Tower, ex Mercantile Bank and Trust Company, in Kansas

City, MO.)



No. The local ground loading would not tolerate a foundation where

the entire load is concentrated at 4 points. On my clay hillside, I'm

limited to 1000 lbs/sq-ft and I'm very close.

Are you some kind of 'tard??? You think those supports stop at ground level??? And that they're not on sizable footers??? LOL