OT: Best Stud Locator?

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 9:51:53 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
<snip>

You've been wrong on just about every subject imaginable. And you're too dumb to use a Zircon, so that's pretty dumb.

 

On Friday, April 4, 2014 12:02:40 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 17:46:32 -0700 (PDT),

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:



On Thursday, April 3, 2014 5:59:35 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

snip



5/8 is code everywhere for it fire stop value, not strength.



Fire rated Type X 1/2" sheetrock exists with a 45 minute rating, but

code always specifies a 1 hr rating, which requires 5/8". Ordinary

5/8" sheetrock is not fire rated.

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/gypboard.htm#a2

Builders would probably use fire rated 5/8" throughout the house if it

weren't for the price of combined fire proof and fire rated panels.

While ordinary and Type X might cost $9 to $12 per panel in small

quantities, the combined fire rated and mold proof panels are $16 to

$22. Still, they're required for bathrooms and kitchens, so most

houses get a mixture of sheetrock types with water, mold, and fire

proof in the kitchen, water and mold proof in the kitchen, fireproof

between the house and garage, and ordinary most everywhere else.







--

Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com

150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com

Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com

Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Type X is only about $0.75 more per sheet. And I'm not aware of any code requiring mold-proof drywall.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 17:46:32 -0700 (PDT),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 5:59:35 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
snip

5/8 is code everywhere for it fire stop value, not strength.

Fire rated Type X 1/2" sheetrock exists with a 45 minute rating, but
code always specifies a 1 hr rating, which requires 5/8". Ordinary
5/8" sheetrock is not fire rated.
<http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/gypboard.htm#a2>
Builders would probably use fire rated 5/8" throughout the house if it
weren't for the price of combined fire proof and fire rated panels.
While ordinary and Type X might cost $9 to $12 per panel in small
quantities, the combined fire rated and mold proof panels are $16 to
$22. Still, they're required for bathrooms and kitchens, so most
houses get a mixture of sheetrock types with water, mold, and fire
proof in the kitchen, water and mold proof in the kitchen, fireproof
between the house and garage, and ordinary most everywhere else.



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Saturday, April 5, 2014 12:17:46 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I have an area of my "yard" where nothing will grow. A little digging

uncovered some construction scrap from when the house was first built.

I suspect the original contractor simply buried the construction waste

rather than haul it to the dump. I'll probably need GRP to locate the

extent of my underground garbage dump before excavating. Sigh.

And here after you just got through raving about the house having a small environmental footprint- and you find the contractor saved a dime by burying the construction waste there, which, depending on exactly what type of material was buried, is strictly illegal. Usually there shouldn't be anything in the waste material to inhibit plant growth, gypsum is actually a soil amendment in wide use. The idiot operating the backhoe most likely topped it off with the subsoil at the surface and that generally will not support anything but the toughest weeds.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 14:52:16 -0700, John Larkin
<jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

But I really want an imaging impulse radar. Should be $29 at Home
Depot.

Concrete wall inspection is currently done with GPR (ground
penetrating radar) or X-ray inspection equipment.
<http://www.global-gpr.com/ground-penetrating-radar.html>
<http://www.3dx-ray.com/products/security/portable-systems>
I have no experience with either technology, but I presume the
equipment costs more then $29. Or, just make your own:
<http://georadar.150m.com>

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other
walls. Locally, that's called a remodel. When the framing,
electrical, and plumbing was done, but before any inside sheetrock was
installed, I arrived with my camera and photographed every wall in the
house. Although I forgot to do the ceilings, they tell me that the
photos have been extrememly handy for locating wall hung fixtures and
doing in the wall rework. That should be standard procedure for any
construction where the walls are open, but to the best of my limited
knowledge, nobody does it.

I have an area of my "yard" where nothing will grow. A little digging
uncovered some construction scrap from when the house was first built.
I suspect the original contractor simply buried the construction waste
rather than haul it to the dump. I'll probably need GRP to locate the
extent of my underground garbage dump before excavating. Sigh.





--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 09:17:46 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 14:52:16 -0700, John Larkin
jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

But I really want an imaging impulse radar. Should be $29 at Home
Depot.

Concrete wall inspection is currently done with GPR (ground
penetrating radar) or X-ray inspection equipment.
http://www.global-gpr.com/ground-penetrating-radar.html
http://www.3dx-ray.com/products/security/portable-systems
I have no experience with either technology, but I presume the
equipment costs more then $29. Or, just make your own:
http://georadar.150m.com

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other
walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.

Californica ;-)

When the framing,
electrical, and plumbing was done, but before any inside sheetrock was
installed, I arrived with my camera and photographed every wall in the
house. Although I forgot to do the ceilings, they tell me that the
photos have been extrememly handy for locating wall hung fixtures and
doing in the wall rework. That should be standard procedure for any
construction where the walls are open, but to the best of my limited
knowledge, nobody does it.

We just recently built a new house. During the construction, from
foundation on up, I photographed daily. So I know where everything is
located.

I have an area of my "yard" where nothing will grow. A little digging
uncovered some construction scrap from when the house was first built.
I suspect the original contractor simply buried the construction waste
rather than haul it to the dump. I'll probably need GRP to locate the
extent of my underground garbage dump before excavating. Sigh.

Had that problem, two houses back, a deep area just adjacent to the
back of the house full of drywall scrap.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Shaun]

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message
news:5vpmj9h7gam0r1vpl0i96tb376cct6sdjb@4ax.com...

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.



Why don't you read reviews on the internet like everyone else does you
fucking moron!!!!

When you do locate the ceiling stud and put an anchor in, buy some good rope
and look up how to make a noose and make one, put it to good use; it would
do us all a favor!

 

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other
walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.

I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge
bringing everything up to code, or something like that?

I'm told something similar happens for some parts for light aircraft,
even when new parts are available - it turns out to be cheaper to
"rebuild" or "repair" an existing part. The specific example I heard of
was a muffler; apparently the "rebuild" can consist of cutting the
original data plate and a small piece of sheet metal out of the old one,
fabricating a nearly complete new muffler, and then welding the data
plate and original piece on the new one.

When the framing, electrical, and plumbing was done, but before any
inside sheetrock was installed, I arrived with my camera and
photographed every wall in the house.

I did this when I had a wall open in my living room. It has already
come in handy when I wanted to hang some curtain rods.

Some people I know bought a house that was in very dire need of interior
remodeling and repair. They took photos of each room before they did
anything. After remodeling, they printed one photo of each room in 4x5
or so and hung them in their respective rooms.

Matt Roberds

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 22.14.59 UTC+2 skrev mrob...@att.net:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave

one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other

walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.



I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge

bringing everything up to code, or something like that?

I know here any substantial remodel has to done to current code.
Maybe with a remodel you can "reuse" the original building permit?

I'm told something similar happens for some parts for light aircraft,

even when new parts are available - it turns out to be cheaper to

"rebuild" or "repair" an existing part. The specific example I heard of

was a muffler; apparently the "rebuild" can consist of cutting the

original data plate and a small piece of sheet metal out of the old one,

fabricating a nearly complete new muffler, and then welding the data

plate and original piece on the new one.



When the framing, electrical, and plumbing was done, but before any

inside sheetrock was installed, I arrived with my camera and

photographed every wall in the house.



I did this when I had a wall open in my living room. It has already

come in handy when I wanted to hang some curtain rods.



Some people I know bought a house that was in very dire need of interior

remodeling and repair. They took photos of each room before they did

anything. After remodeling, they printed one photo of each room in 4x5

or so and hung them in their respective rooms.

When they were building a new Ikea here I saw someone had done a phone app
to organize taking pictures tagged with times and coordinates to document
the building process so they full documentation of all the intermediate steps that get hidden as the build goes on


-Lasse

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 23.14.33 UTC+2 skrev Jim Thompson:

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 14:11:26 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen

langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:



Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 22.14.59 UTC+2 skrev mrob...@att.net:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:



One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave



one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other



walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.







I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge



bringing everything up to code, or something like that?





I know here any substantial remodel has to done to current code.

Maybe with a remodel you can "reuse" the original building permit?



[snip]



The remodel game is to avoid what many places, such as Santa Barbara,

CA, where most of the houses are labeled by the government goons as

"historic". You can't tear down a "historic" building, but you can

"remodel" it ;-)

but wouldn't you have to leave it pretty much identical on the outside?

-Lasse

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

Den mandag den 7. april 2014 01.21.11 UTC+2 skrev k...@attt.bizz:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2014 14:38:54 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com

wrote:



On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 11:25:25 -0700 (PDT),

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:



http://www.builderonline.com/construction/studs-at-24-inch-spacing.aspx



That author is a jackass moron too, a complete retarded idiot

with absolutely no sense of cause and effect. The primary

reason for going 24"OC is to reduce thermal shorts by 30%,

that would be two studs in 4 ft versus 3 (duh).



Perhaps it would be helpful if you would refer to the original

problem, which was your suggestion that Jim simply measure 16" from

some unspecified starting point, in order to locate the studs upon

which he can hang his heavy power tools. My only comment was to

suggest that not all houses are built on 16" centers and that it might

be better to use a stud finder instead of a tape measure.



There's

more I could tell you about it, but you and some others

around here are getting so smug, I won't.



Please don't.



Incidentally, there are other ways to do framing on both 16" and 24"

centers.

https://www.pcc.edu/about/events/sustainability-training/documents/advanced-wall-framing.pdf



Oddity: Despite the studs usually being on 16" centers, bathroom

towel racks are most commonly available in 24" lengths. I find myself

buying the 24" variety and cutting them down to 16", or adding a

horizontal firebreak just for the towel rack.



I won't add a firebreak, but if I have a wall open that I may later

want to hang a towel bar (or cabinets, or...), I will add a 2x8,

upright, on that wall to give it something to bite into. It's too

much work to open the wall to do it, so I just mount one end on

sheetrock. If it fails, then I'll add the 2x8. They usually don't

(no kids in the house anymore). ;-)

don't know if it is code but I think almost everything here is two layers
of sheet rock, or sheet rock over plywood

-Lasse

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

Den mandag den 7. april 2014 02.10.52 UTC+2 skrev k...@attt.bizz:

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 00:12:37 -0500, "Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com

wrote:







"Jim Thompson" wrote in message

news:5vpmj9h7gam0r1vpl0i96tb376cct6sdjb@4ax.com...



On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson

To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:



OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)



...Jim Thompson



I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are

diverting attention from the original intent :-(



Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling

so I can hang a ladder hoist.



"Rafters" are what keeps the roofing out of the attic. "Joists" are

what keeps the attic out of the livingroom. ;-)

or the livingroom out of the basement

rafters - sloped
studs - vertical
joist - horizontal

-Lasse

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 14:11:26 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
<langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 22.14.59 UTC+2 skrev mrob...@att.net:
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave

one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other

walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.



I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge

bringing everything up to code, or something like that?


I know here any substantial remodel has to done to current code.
Maybe with a remodel you can "reuse" the original building permit?

[snip]

The remodel game is to avoid what many places, such as Santa Barbara,
CA, where most of the houses are labeled by the government goons as
"historic". You can't tear down a "historic" building, but you can
"remodel" it ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 14:17:50 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen
<langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 23.14.33 UTC+2 skrev Jim Thompson:
On Sun, 6 Apr 2014 14:11:26 -0700 (PDT), Lasse Langwadt Christensen

langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:



Den sřndag den 6. april 2014 22.14.59 UTC+2 skrev mrob...@att.net:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:



One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave



one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other



walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.







I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge



bringing everything up to code, or something like that?





I know here any substantial remodel has to done to current code.

Maybe with a remodel you can "reuse" the original building permit?



[snip]



The remodel game is to avoid what many places, such as Santa Barbara,

CA, where most of the houses are labeled by the government goons as

"historic". You can't tear down a "historic" building, but you can

"remodel" it ;-)


but wouldn't you have to leave it pretty much identical on the outside?

-Lasse

That's why they leave, usually, the front face of the house.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[David Platt]

One of my neighbors was doing a radical remodel on his house. Leave
one wall standing and replace the foundation, roof, and all the other
walls. Locally, that's called a remodel.

I'm guessing this makes the building permit cheaper, or lets you dodge
bringing everything up to code, or something like that?

As I understand it, it has to do with tax reassessment.

Here in California, for the past few decades, property tax rates have
been controlled by "Proposition 13". This proposition (a citizens'
amendement to the California Constitution) limits the rate at which a
property's tax assessments can rise.

Prior to Proposition 13, tax rates were assessed on the basis of the
property's "market value" - i.e. what it was assessed to be worth at
current property prices. This caused tax assessments to climb sharply
during propety "booms". Quite a significant number of older long-term
property owners (e.g. those on fixed incomes) were put into a bind
where they had to sell their homes and move away, because they
couldn't afford to pay the taxes.

The Proposition limits the increase in tax rates on a property
(technically, the assessed value for tax purposes) to 2% per year,
except when the property is sold or when some other qualifying event
occurs. AIUI, one such qualifying event is the building of a new
house on the property.

If you have an older house, tear down the house completely, and build
a new one, the property ends up being reassessed at current market
rates. It's as if you just bought the property with the new house on
it.

On the other hand, remodeling of a home does not trigger reassessment
of the property.

What I've been told is that it's a "remodel" as long as you're
retaining at least one substantial load-bearing wall of the old
structure. It's a "new build" if all of the old load-bearing
structure is removed.

The difference in taxes can and does amount to more than $10,000 per
year on a home in this area. So, it can be well worthwhile to do a
"major remodel" rather than a "scrape".

Proposition 13 has had some other weird effects. It results in very
unequal tax rates for near-identical properties - new buyers are at a
real disadvantage. And, I've read, it has actually acted to shift the
tax burden of the state *onto* residential homeowners, because
business properties tend to turn over less frequently than homes.

 

On Thu, 03 Apr 2014 14:38:54 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 11:25:25 -0700 (PDT),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

http://www.builderonline.com/construction/studs-at-24-inch-spacing.aspx

That author is a jackass moron too, a complete retarded idiot
with absolutely no sense of cause and effect. The primary
reason for going 24"OC is to reduce thermal shorts by 30%,
that would be two studs in 4 ft versus 3 (duh).

Perhaps it would be helpful if you would refer to the original
problem, which was your suggestion that Jim simply measure 16" from
some unspecified starting point, in order to locate the studs upon
which he can hang his heavy power tools. My only comment was to
suggest that not all houses are built on 16" centers and that it might
be better to use a stud finder instead of a tape measure.

There's
more I could tell you about it, but you and some others
around here are getting so smug, I won't.

Please don't.

Incidentally, there are other ways to do framing on both 16" and 24"
centers.
https://www.pcc.edu/about/events/sustainability-training/documents/advanced-wall-framing.pdf

Oddity: Despite the studs usually being on 16" centers, bathroom
towel racks are most commonly available in 24" lengths. I find myself
buying the 24" variety and cutting them down to 16", or adding a
horizontal firebreak just for the towel rack.

I won't add a firebreak, but if I have a wall open that I may later
want to hang a towel bar (or cabinets, or...), I will add a 2x8,
upright, on that wall to give it something to bite into. It's too
much work to open the wall to do it, so I just mount one end on
sheetrock. If it fails, then I'll add the 2x8. They usually don't
(no kids in the house anymore). ;-)

Correct. Too bad that many houses are not built with such dimensional
considerations in mine,...

Are you serious???

I'm always serious, except when I'm joking. You should be able to
recognize the difference without assistance, but since you apparently
need help, I will disclose that at least this time, I am serious.

Bloggs is a joke, so it's hard for him to tell.

The main ingredient of production efficiency is uniformity.

My house, and possibly Jim Thompson's, are custom homes. That means
they were not cut out of a cookie cutter floor plan, and in my case,
did not have the alleged benefits of having the ground deforested,
bulldozed, flattened, leveled, and paved into something that would
make it convenient to use 16" centers.

The vast majority of new houses are in developments where all
the houses are the exact same plan give or take a right<->left flip.

Very true. I do some real estate speculation and avoid such houses.
They are usually badly built, where the developer has cut costs in
every conceivable manner. Oddly, I did see one local housing
development that used steel studs on 24" centers. I may have taken
some photos during the framing. I'll dig.

It's not all that uncommon, and the norm in commercial building. There
is nothing wrong with steel studs but it does require wiring with BX,
which is more costly. Not sure you can use PEX, either.

 

On Thu, 03 Apr 2014 06:59:15 -0700, RobertMacy
<robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wed, 02 Apr 2014 18:28:10 -0700, RosemontCrest
rosemontcrest.deletethis@yahoo.com> wrote:

...snip...
Engineered 2x4" trusses are typically placed on 24" centers. 2x6" and
2x8" rafters used in vaulted ceilings are typically placed on 24"
centers. 2x6" wall studs are typically placed on 24" centers. 2x4" wall
studs are typically placed on 16" centers.

Not "everything" is placed on 16" centers. You might consider refraining
from making comment on subjects about which you are ignorant.


And there's always that 'rhythm' pattern broken up some where, just where
you plan on placing the nail.

Like other "rhythm methods", this one is also likely to fail at the
worst possible time.

 

On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 19:13:32 -0700 (PDT),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 9:51:53 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:
snip

You've been wrong on just about every subject imaginable. And you're too dumb to use a Zircon, so that's pretty dumb.

You and Slowman really are two peas in one very damp, dark, warm
place; twins from spontaneous abortion.

 

On Fri, 04 Apr 2014 09:02:40 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Thu, 3 Apr 2014 17:46:32 -0700 (PDT),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 5:59:35 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
snip

5/8 is code everywhere for it fire stop value, not strength.

Fire rated Type X 1/2" sheetrock exists with a 45 minute rating, but
code always specifies a 1 hr rating, which requires 5/8". Ordinary
5/8" sheetrock is not fire rated.

"Always" is a very long time. When I built the garage in NY, they
allowed 1/2" FC sheetrock, as long as it was used on both sides of the
common wall. No problem on the ceiling (nothing above) or other
walls, either.

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/gypboard.htm#a2
Builders would probably use fire rated 5/8" throughout the house if it
weren't for the price of combined fire proof and fire rated panels.
While ordinary and Type X might cost $9 to $12 per panel in small
quantities, the combined fire rated and mold proof panels are $16 to
$22. Still, they're required for bathrooms and kitchens, so most
houses get a mixture of sheetrock types with water, mold, and fire
proof in the kitchen, water and mold proof in the kitchen, fireproof
between the house and garage, and ordinary most everywhere else.

 

On Thu, 03 Apr 2014 19:13:34 -0700, RosemontCrest
<rosemontcrest.deletethis@yahoo.com> wrote:

On 4/3/2014 5:25 PM, krw@attt.bizz wrote:
On Wed, 02 Apr 2014 19:49:38 -0700, RosemontCrest
rosemontcrest.deletethis@yahoo.com> wrote:

On 4/2/2014 7:07 PM, krw@attt.bizz wrote:
On Wed, 02 Apr 2014 18:28:10 -0700, RosemontCrest
rosemontcrest.deletethis@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 20:00:13 -0700 (PDT),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 3:51:14 PM UTC-4, Jim Thompson wrote:
OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

[snip]

Measuring tape, everything is 16" OC.

Engineered 2x4" trusses are typically placed on 24" centers. 2x6" and
2x8" rafters used in vaulted ceilings are typically placed on 24"
centers. 2x6" wall studs are typically placed on 24" centers. 2x4" wall
studs are typically placed on 16" centers.

More modern 2x6 walls are also placed on 16" centers.

Well, I did state "typically." It's been several years since I framed
houses.

Ceilings and
floors are all over the place.

Yep. It mostly depends on the dimension of the lumber, the span, and for
vaulted ceilings/roofs, the pitch and local codes for snow loads and such.

Those are nominal, as well. You'll be
hard pressed to find them accurate (within 1-1/2"), in recent
construction, either.

Perhaps, but not for the framing crew that I worked with during my
late-teens and early-twenties. Studs, joists and rafters were always
placed within 1/2" of specification and walls were ensured to be
"square" to within 1/4" diagonal to diagonal. Perhaps "they don't build
them like they used to." But, most of the houses that I helped to
construct are high-end "spec" houses.

You aren't illegal, I presume, either. They can't even get the joists
the right side up, these days.

The short story is that stud/joist spacing
can't be counted on.

Not "everything" is placed on 16" centers. You might consider refraining
from making comment on subjects about which you are ignorant.

I already said that (which you conveniently snipped).

When did you post: "Not "everything" is placed on 16" centers. You might
consider refraining from making comment on subjects about which you are
ignorant?"

bloggs enjoys permanent residence in my kill file. I trimmed my previous
reply only because it is directed to bloggs. I may have "replied" to
your post, but my previous response is directed only to bloggs, not you.

But you did snip what I said to Bloggs,

How observant of you.

Yes, I can tell a liar when I see one.

and repeated what I said to Bloggs.

Last month was a good time to go fly a kite, but I suggest that you try
to do so this month starting right now. I did not repeat what you wrote,
but I suppose that you believe that anyone who uses any form of the word
"ignorance" must be repeating what you wrote.

I suggest that you fuck off. You can join your pal, Bloggs.