OT: Best Stud Locator?

[Jim Thompson]

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[nuny@bid.nes]

On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 12:51:14 PM UTC-7, Jim Thompson wrote:
> OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

Neodymium magnet superglued to a stick.


Mark L. Fergerson

 

[Klaus Kragelund]

On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 9:51:14 PM UTC+2, Jim Thompson wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)



I am quite please with the Bosch series detectors (blue series = professional)

Cheers

Klaus

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2014-04-02, Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 23:11:23 -0400, Martin Riddle

Good point. This house... they even used a foil barrier on the roof
plywood!

foil's going to mess with any stud finders that work by capacitance.

using a neodmyium manget to find the nails/screws will tell you where
the fixers thought the studs were


--
umop apisdn


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[George Herold]

On Tuesday, April 1, 2014 9:31:54 PM UTC-4, Jim Thompson wrote:

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson

To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:



OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)



...Jim Thompson



I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are

diverting attention from the original intent :-(

http://xkcd.com/952/
My stud finder often fails on the ceiling. I don't know why.. is the dry wall thicker?
Half the time I end up just putting a hole in the dry wall and then fishing around with a bent coat hanger till it bumps into joist.
(Hey you really need a joist finder :^)

George H.

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling

so I can hang a ladder hoist.

...Jim Thompson

--

| James E.Thompson | mens |

| Analog Innovations | et |

| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |

| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |

| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |

| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |



I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Belleman]

On 02-Apr-14 3:51 AM, Jim Thompson wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I hear there's an app called "Grinder"

Let us know how you get on.

 

If I were hanging HEAVY stuff, I would use the stud finder first then I would use some brads and punch them in and make sure I really got the center of the stud

 

[Cydrome Leader]

In sci.electronics.basics Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@on-my-web-site.com> wrote:

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

I'm in an old building and had to locate rafters though plaster and lathe.
There was no way a studfinder or banging on stuff was going to work up
there. Even pressing up to see where things flexed was useless. I just
drilled about a dozen holes with a #58 drill bit to keep the damage down.
Patching only took a few minutes. Eventually you can tell lathe from
plaster from rough hewn lumber from the dust falling into your eyes.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Wed, 2 Apr 2014 20:13:05 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

In sci.electronics.basics Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@on-my-web-site.com> wrote:
On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

I'm in an old building and had to locate rafters though plaster and lathe.
There was no way a studfinder or banging on stuff was going to work up
there. Even pressing up to see where things flexed was useless. I just
drilled about a dozen holes with a #58 drill bit to keep the damage down.
Patching only took a few minutes. Eventually you can tell lathe from
plaster from rough hewn lumber from the dust falling into your eyes.

Yep. I've been known to drill "test" holes ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: Contacts Only | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[amdx]

On 4/1/2014 8:31 PM, Jim Thompson wrote:

On Tue, 01 Apr 2014 12:51:14 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

OT: Best Stud Locator? (Thru drywall or stucco.)

...Jim Thompson

I guess I need to reword this request... all the juveniles are
diverting attention from the original intent :-(

Actually I need an accurate locator for those _rafters_ in the ceiling
so I can hang a ladder hoist.

...Jim Thompson

My method is to knock on the ceiling until I think I'm close, then I
push a sewing needle in, if I hit wood, I move 1/2 inch and try again.
I use 1/2 the distance idea after that. I do this until I know both
edges of the stud or joist. I usually hold the sewing needle in a small
pair of vice grips, makes it easy in and out. Any extra holes are small
enough that I don't concern myself about them. This has worked well a
dozen times in my drywall made walls.
Oh you want a Stud Locator, sorry haven't used one for 30 years.
Mikek

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 8:45:08 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:

I've found the Zircons to be really sloppy. I've bought a few (buying

progressively better ones, hoping that they'll be better) and the seem

to only find the stud within about 2". A 1-1/2" stud appears to be

something like 4" wide. I'd prefer to know the center of the stud

better than that (and if it's a single or double). A rare-earth

magnet on a string seems to work better.

Rare-earth magnet on a string doesn't respond to wood. How dammed dumb are you that you don't know enough to realize the stud center bisects your 4" wide detection zone. You couldn't pour piss out of boot if the directions were written on the heel.

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 9:57:46 PM UTC-4, Tom Miller wrote:

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:5184482c-8c28-4783-bfbb-5a27443d9880@googlegroups.com...

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 8:45:08 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:



I've found the Zircons to be really sloppy. I've bought a few (buying



progressively better ones, hoping that they'll be better) and the seem



to only find the stud within about 2". A 1-1/2" stud appears to be



something like 4" wide. I'd prefer to know the center of the stud



better than that (and if it's a single or double). A rare-earth



magnet on a string seems to work better.





Rare-earth magnet on a string doesn't respond to wood. How dammed dumb are

you that you don't know enough to realize the stud center bisects your 4"

wide detection zone. You couldn't pour piss out of boot if the directions

were written on the heel.



Bloggs, damn you are stupid!

You're as dumb as the krw troll. What makes you think the drywall screw is centered on the stud and why drop a plumb line to where you want to be ( which is certainly not right on top of a screw)? Go back to your limp-wristed keyboard pecking.

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 10:08:06 PM UTC-4, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:

I'm glad I am not the only one that noticed.



Jamie

If you ever used a Zircon or any similar stud finder, you would realize that that's exactly how it's supposed to be used.

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 10:02:23 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:

On Wed, 2 Apr 2014 18:37:39 -0700 (PDT),

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:



On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 8:45:08 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:



I've found the Zircons to be really sloppy. I've bought a few (buying



progressively better ones, hoping that they'll be better) and the seem



to only find the stud within about 2". A 1-1/2" stud appears to be



something like 4" wide. I'd prefer to know the center of the stud



better than that (and if it's a single or double). A rare-earth



magnet on a string seems to work better.





Rare-earth magnet on a string doesn't respond to wood. How dammed dumb are you that you don't know enough to realize the stud center bisects your 4" wide detection zone. You couldn't pour piss out of boot if the directions were written on the heel.



You're dumb enough to believe that walls are held together with fairy

dust. You are a fairy, so perhaps yours are.

The Zircon is more accurate than locating a screw, imbecile.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 4/2/2014 3:16 PM, bulegoge@columbus.rr.com wrote:

If I were hanging HEAVY stuff, I would use the stud finder first then I would use some brads and punch them in and make sure I really got the center of the stud

If I were hanging heavy stuff, I sure wouldn't rely on a screw into a
rafter.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[Cydrome Leader]

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 20:00:13 -0700 (PDT),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

Measuring tape, everything is 16" OC.

Not if it's a LEED "green" building, where wider spacing is used to
save on material:
http://www.leedsc.com/LEED_Site/Framing.html
From the perspective of LEED certification, 16" on center
framing is not recommended. LEED prefers buildings to be
built with 19.5" or 24" on center spacing for studs and
joists which saves lumber without compromising strength.

Ha "without compromising strength". Do they also suggest use of use 1/4"
sheetrock too? It won't compromise strength.

I can see somebody and their ladder falling though an entire wall made to
such crappy specs.

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 9:45:12 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 20:00:13 -0700 (PDT),

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:



Measuring tape, everything is 16" OC.



Not if it's a LEED "green" building, where wider spacing is used to

save on material:

http://www.leedsc.com/LEED_Site/Framing.html

From the perspective of LEED certification, 16" on center

framing is not recommended. LEED prefers buildings to be

built with 19.5" or 24" on center spacing for studs and

joists which saves lumber without compromising strength.

Whoever wrote that is a jackass. The 24" spacing is to reduce the "thermal short" of the stud and has little to do with "saving lumber"_ just unbelievable.

That works well until you try to hang shelves on the studs, and find

the spacing excessive or awkward.



Also, in a conventional home, the 16" spacing is broken up by doors

and windows resulting in odd spaced studs near the corners, doors, and

windows.

LOL- the stud spacing remains the same along the length of wall. The openings are inserted into it, requiring king studs, jack studs, headers and cripple studs. The stud spacing is not synchronized with the opening, the opening is synch'ed to the stud spacing.

--

Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com

150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com

Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com

Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 9:28:10 PM UTC-4, RosemontCrest wrote:

Engineered 2x4" trusses are typically placed on 24" centers. 2x6" and

2x8" rafters used in vaulted ceilings are typically placed on 24"

centers. 2x6" wall studs are typically placed on 24" centers. 2x4" wall

studs are typically placed on 16" centers.



Not "everything" is placed on 16" centers. You might consider refraining

from making comment on subjects about which you are ignorant.

You don't know the first thing about structures, and why am I not surprised, you're an ignorant little lightweight nobody. And being a mindless unskilled helper laborer working part-time on residential construction in no way shape or form constitutes "building experience" any more than a ditch digger can call himself an excavation engineer. You're a complete pretentious little unimpressive nothing of a non-entity.

P.S. All your little numbers are wrong.

 

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 10:07:14 PM UTC-4, k...@attt.bizz wrote:

floors are all over the place. Those are nominal, as well. You'll be

hard pressed to find them accurate (within 1-1/2"), in recent

construction, either. The short story is that stud/joist spacing

can't be counted on.

That's only true in the backwater areas where backwater scum like you live, it is not true of areas where the people in the trades are "educable."

 

On Thursday, April 3, 2014 8:01:29 AM UTC-4, John Devereux wrote:

bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com writes:



On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 9:45:12 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 20:00:13 -0700 (PDT),



bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:







Measuring tape, everything is 16" OC.







Not if it's a LEED "green" building, where wider spacing is used to



save on material:



http://www.leedsc.com/LEED_Site/Framing.html



From the perspective of LEED certification, 16" on center



framing is not recommended. LEED prefers buildings to be



built with 19.5" or 24" on center spacing for studs and



joists which saves lumber without compromising strength.



Whoever wrote that is a jackass. The 24" spacing is to reduce the

"thermal short" of the stud and has little to do with "saving lumber"_

just unbelievable.









That works well until you try to hang shelves on the studs, and find



the spacing excessive or awkward.







Also, in a conventional home, the 16" spacing is broken up by doors



and windows resulting in odd spaced studs near the corners, doors, and



windows.



LOL- the stud spacing remains the same along the length of wall. The

openings are inserted into it, requiring king studs, jack studs,

headers and cripple studs. The stud spacing is not synchronized with

the opening, the opening is synch'ed to the stud spacing.



Just so I can follow this (US-oriented?) Man Talk....



The "studs" are strips of wood behind plaster board, is that right? Not

the nails holding it on. So we are talking about locating the wood, not

just the nails?

The studs are the vertical frame members, yes, not usually referred to as strips. These people are talking about locating the screws used to attach the interior drywall to the studs for purposes of locating the studs in a finished wall. Usually they want a solid stud to screw into for holding strength for some reason or another.

--



John Devereux