M
Meat Plow
Guest
On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 08:42:11 -0500, Wild_Bill wrote:
mildly irritating only. Once I have to mess with it longer than a few
seconds I'll peal the HT apart and clean it. The innards are pretty
small. I have to wear a stereo magnifying visor to see the tiny screws
holding the keypad backing board to the case.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
I've cleaned others with a piece of felt and alcohol. Right now it'sI might be tempted to try an external switch to find out what the
circuit requires for more predictable/reliable operation.
The rubbery buttons' pads are conductive, obviously, but rarely low ohms
in resistance. With a common momentary switch and a 1k (or 200, 470 etc)
series resistor, the unit may operate just fine. Then check the
resistance of the existing switch to see if it's near the improvised
resistance that works well.
The rubbery switches' conductive pads generally increase dramatically
with use. Looking at aged conductive pads, they often develop a
glazed-looking surface from being pressed repeatedly.
I often scuff them very lightly with very fine abrasive (approx 600
grit) or one of those fiberglas pen scuffing tools, but very lightly..
just enough to remove the glaze from the pad.
The resistance comes back down, and the conductive pads work fine until
they get glazed again.. many uses later (like keyboard keys, IR remote
buttons etc).
mildly irritating only. Once I have to mess with it longer than a few
seconds I'll peal the HT apart and clean it. The innards are pretty
small. I have to wear a stereo magnifying visor to see the tiny screws
holding the keypad backing board to the case.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse