Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Mark Zacharias <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net> wrote:
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:ct5c48dkldr9qpi2rhh347h5r0nmblnke4@4ax.com...
snip
down to the bottom until it seals the receptacle. That's should help.
Incidentally, I have two Fluke meters (Model 10 and 73). No problems
and well worth the money.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
I have a 85-III, an 87-V, a 27-II, an 8800A/AF, the new 289 and an 8840A.
In
my experience they have been absolutlely reliable, and in measurements
there's not over about 400 microvolts difference on DC volts between
them,
even the 8800 produced around (?) 1975 and the 8840A made around 1986.
Yes, I am a "multimeter junkie"...
I have left my 87-V in my refrigerator for days on end getting min-max on
temperature. It would get condensation when moved from the cold to a warm
room, but never malfunctioned.
I have not submerged any of them, but the 27-II is supposed to be
waterproof...
The 87-5 has split terminals for the current jacks - this may explain why
the other fellow was getting the "leads" indication with moisture in
there.
I just confirmed that just one breath like one would use to clean
eyeglasses is enough to "short out" the small current range jack.
Can anybody else try this?
I'm going to ask fluke about this.
Doesn't happen with mine. Serial # is 96800437.I just confirmed that just one breath like one would use to clean
eyeglasses is enough to "short out" the small current range jack.
Can anybody else try this?
I'm going to ask fluke about this.
Just another example of the sales bullshit not matching reality."Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:k232om$nqs$1@reader1.panix.com...
My hamfest special Fluke 80 something series something 20 year old meter
started to act weird so it was time to upgrade.
Got a spiffy 87 series V meter from Specialized.
It's much larger than the old meter which is sort of a bummer, but it has
a nice display and came with a cheapo temp probe.
I tried to measure the temp of the shower water I like and few minutes
later the meter started to freak out with "L38d" errors. It would not
shut
the hell up unless it was in the mA or uA range.
So apparently the humidity condensed inside the lead sockets and shorted
out the other side of the connector shell causing the meter to think I
was
stuck in a current range of some sort.
a dry qtip wasn't able to dry the sockets out. Neither was pure alcohol,
or a fan. I was about to get a RAM on the piece of shit, but finally,
after about 20 minutes of being set in front of a fan, the thiung dried
up
enough to work again.
I checked the service manual and found a strange section suggesting your
spray a swab with WD-40 and work it around inside the lead sockets to
prevent this problem.
WTF.
Is there some some secret settings I can enter on this meter to supress
the input warnings, or is it time to unsolder half the connectors?
Since the entire meter is semi sealed and had gaskets and orings all
over,
it seems stupid that a miniscule amout of moisture or a drop of water
will
completely disable the meter.
I'm calling shit design on this one.
NOT per http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMV7E186_Nw&feature=plcp
On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 04:35:12 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in Message id:
k26kq0$mp0$1@reader1.panix.com>:
[...]
I just confirmed that just one breath like one would use to clean
eyeglasses is enough to "short out" the small current range jack.
Can anybody else try this?
I'm going to ask fluke about this.
Doesn't happen with mine. Serial # is 96800437.
I got an RMA today for mine."JW" <none@dev.null> wrote in message
news:uqfe48155tia3duo7h9smrj6fvmlncrpa8@4ax.com...
On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 04:35:12 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in Message id:
k26kq0$mp0$1@reader1.panix.com>:
[...]
I just confirmed that just one breath like one would use to clean
eyeglasses is enough to "short out" the small current range jack.
Can anybody else try this?
I'm going to ask fluke about this.
Doesn't happen with mine. Serial # is 96800437.
OK, I checked my 87-5. DOES NOT trigger the lead warning by any amount of
close-up hot breathing into it.
So it's back to the 73 series II for now I guess.Also checked my 289 again to confirm "Made in America".
It is, "of U.S. and non-U.S. components" - about as I expected.
Mark Zacharias <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net> wrote:
"JW" <none@dev.null> wrote in message
news:uqfe48155tia3duo7h9smrj6fvmlncrpa8@4ax.com...
On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 04:35:12 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in Message id:
k26kq0$mp0$1@reader1.panix.com>:
[...]
I just confirmed that just one breath like one would use to clean
eyeglasses is enough to "short out" the small current range jack.
Can anybody else try this?
I'm going to ask fluke about this.
Doesn't happen with mine. Serial # is 96800437.
OK, I checked my 87-5. DOES NOT trigger the lead warning by any amount of
close-up hot breathing into it.
I got an RMA today for mine.
The tech support guy was basically able to cut me off before I described
the problem, and suggested I clean the jack with pure alcohol, which I
tried already. That didn't work so it's going back. It was hinted it would
take years of grime to build up on the jack before it acts weird, which
obviously isn't the case.
Also checked my 289 again to confirm "Made in America".
It is, "of U.S. and non-U.S. components" - about as I expected.
So it's back to the 73 series II for now I guess.
I'm really curious as to what the resistance is between the "shorted"
contacts, but I can't measure it without desoldering the jack, which would
probably cancel any warranty work on the unit.
Maybe there's some hygroscopic shmutz around the jacks. Have you thoroughlyYesterday was less humid in the house, and it took an extra puff to
trigger the lead error, but it was still easy. Maybe the shroud of the
jack uses a water absorbing plastic like nylon.
Interesting- I'll test resistance with HP 34401 (which has been mostly"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:k29au8$63i$3@reader1.panix.com...
Mark Zacharias <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net> wrote:
"JW" <none@dev.null> wrote in message
news:uqfe48155tia3duo7h9smrj6fvmlncrpa8@4ax.com...
On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 04:35:12 +0000 (UTC) Cydrome Leader
presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in Message id:
k26kq0$mp0$1@reader1.panix.com>:
[...]
I just confirmed that just one breath like one would use to clean
eyeglasses is enough to "short out" the small current range jack.
Can anybody else try this?
I'm going to ask fluke about this.
Doesn't happen with mine. Serial # is 96800437.
OK, I checked my 87-5. DOES NOT trigger the lead warning by any amount of
close-up hot breathing into it.
I got an RMA today for mine.
The tech support guy was basically able to cut me off before I described
the problem, and suggested I clean the jack with pure alcohol, which I
tried already. That didn't work so it's going back. It was hinted it would
take years of grime to build up on the jack before it acts weird, which
obviously isn't the case.
Also checked my 289 again to confirm "Made in America".
It is, "of U.S. and non-U.S. components" - about as I expected.
So it's back to the 73 series II for now I guess.
I'm really curious as to what the resistance is between the "shorted"
contacts, but I can't measure it without desoldering the jack, which would
probably cancel any warranty work on the unit.
DC resistance between split halves of current jacks on the 87-5 = 2.4 meg
on the 85-3 it is 30 meg on mA jack, 25 meg on Amp jack
.
The 289 appears to use optical sensing.
yeah, it's clean, plus it's basically new. I've not been dragging itYesterday was less humid in the house, and it took an extra puff to
trigger the lead error, but it was still easy. Maybe the shroud of the
jack uses a water absorbing plastic like nylon.
Maybe there's some hygroscopic shmutz around the jacks. Have you thoroughly
cleaned/flushed the area?
This has puzzled me ever since you first posted.Yesterday was less humid in the house, and it took an extra puff
to trigger the lead error, but it was still easy. Maybe the shroud
of the jack uses a water-absorbing plastic like nylon.
Maybe there's some hygroscopic shmutz around the jacks. Have
you thoroughly cleaned/flushed the area?
Yeah, it's clean, plus it's basically new. I've not been dragging it
around a steel mill or anything like that.
I've decided not to mess with the inside of the meter itself. It's underYesterday was less humid in the house, and it took an extra puff
to trigger the lead error, but it was still easy. Maybe the shroud
of the jack uses a water-absorbing plastic like nylon.
Maybe there's some hygroscopic shmutz around the jacks. Have
you thoroughly cleaned/flushed the area?
Yeah, it's clean, plus it's basically new. I've not been dragging it
around a steel mill or anything like that.
This has puzzled me ever since you first posted.
CMOS is sensitive to surface contamination -- anything that's conductive,
even only slightly including water.
Fluke seemed keen on getting in for repair, so we'll see what they do toYou might try hitting the area with freeze spray. This ought to reveal two
things... First, is the problem caused simply by blowing on the board (ie,
moisture has nothing to do with it). Second, the low temperature will cause
moisture to condense. Does the problem occur after the spray has evaporated?
If I had access to an ultrasound bath, I'd dunk the board in an inert
solvent and clean it thoroughly. If that didn't clear the problem, I'd be
surprised.
Please let us know. I like to hear solutions to odd problems.Fluke seemed keen on getting in for repair, so we'll see
what they do to it.