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In article <MPG.30bc10d3dc17351d9896a5@news.plus.net>,
gravity@mjcoon.plus.com says...
* As an apprentice project, I built a clock that used four 5x7 blocks of
neons for a digital display.
See https://picasaweb.google.com/111741851908838288378/CEDRICProject?
authuser=0&feat=directlink
On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 3:55:22 PM UTC-5, Madness wrote:
Just acquired a bunch of these lamps. They're in the same mini-bayonet
style as lamps like the #44/47. But would anyone know if these lamps can
be connected directly to 120 volts? Or do they need a resistor, @ if so,
what value?
Mpfffff....
This lamp was used by Zenith and more than a few other manufacturers in the 1950s/1960s as an indicator lamp (on/off) at about the time that radio manufacturers started to become concerned about user-servicing and hot-chassis radios - something that never really bothered them in the past. The worked on the theory that a neon lamp was far less likely to burn out than the old standby #44 or #47, so that loose fingers were less likely to get nipped. ASIDE: Audio devices held on to incandescent lamps (With specific reference to the 47) well into the 80s, before shifting - very slowly - to LEDs or Fluorescent lamps. But, they had transformers on board to isolate the chassis.
It is designed to operate at ~120V AC. It _CAN_ operate at ~120V DC, but only one post will light. It will trip (glow) at about 90V +/-.
Unless there is a voltage dropper in the circuit, it will fail quickly at 220 or 240 V - that is voltages outside of Japan and the Americas. As supplied, it has a 100K resistor in series with the lamp. For conversion to 220V, I have heard values of up to an *additional* 220K in series. Try there and work back if you wish to operate at 220V.
As about 2/3 of my hobby time is dedicated to vintage radios, I am quite familiar with, and keep a bunch of these lamps in my spares-box.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-C855FA.10123121112015@5ad64b5e.bb.sky.com...
In article <n2o178$ktt$1@dont-email.me>,
Madness <policedept@thedonutshop.com> wrote:
Just acquired a bunch of these lamps. They're in the same mini-bayonet
style as lamps like the #44/47. But would anyone know if these lamps can
be connected directly to 120 volts? Or do they need a resistor, @ if so,
what value?
Madness-
NE-51 does NOT have a resistor inside!
One thing you can do with them, is build a relaxation oscillator. From
a 90 to 100 volt DC source, connect a series resistor, with a capacitor
across the bulb. Perhaps 470K Ohms and 1 uF. Try different values to
change the flashing rate. For smaller values, it can be used as an
audio oscillator.
Another variation is to have several bulbs, each with its series
resistor. But the capacitors are connected from bulb to bulb in a ring.
The result is a somewhat random flashing. I once built one with 5
generic neon lamps using two small 45 Volt batteries in series. Some
people would become engrossed, trying to figure out the flashing
sequence!
Fred
Ha ! I built one too when I was an apprentice. I seem to think that the
circuit was in Practically Witless magazine. There used to be an aerosol
deodorant at the time which had a blue spherical cap. I had about 12
neons in my version, and had them poked through holes in one of those
caps - a bit like a WW2 sea mine. Quite by chance, the neon that flashed
slowest was the one that poked vertically out of the top. It was all run
from a single 90 volt battery, housed in a box made from modeling
plasticard under the deodorant cap. The one thing that I do recall is
that it also had a switch to alter the way the neons flashed. I seem to
remember that one leg of all the neons were joined together and
connected to battery -ve. Likewise, one leg of all the caps were joined
together. When they were left 'floating', the flash of the individual
neons was very 'soft' and hypnotic and random. The switch took the
commoned capacitor legs to battery -ve. With the switch closed, the
flashes were much 'sharper' making the whole display much more
'frenetic' looking. The current drain was so small that a battery lasted
a year or more (which was just as well, as they were expensive. I think
I still have a bunch of neons somewhere. I might try knocking one up
again ...
Arfa
On 03/12/15 02:27, Arfa Daily wrote:
"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-C855FA.10123121112015@5ad64b5e.bb.sky.com...
In article <n2o178$ktt$1@dont-email.me>,
Madness <policedept@thedonutshop.com> wrote:
Just acquired a bunch of these lamps. They're in the same mini-bayonet
style as lamps like the #44/47. But would anyone know if these lamps can
be connected directly to 120 volts? Or do they need a resistor, @ if so,
what value?
Madness-
NE-51 does NOT have a resistor inside!
One thing you can do with them, is build a relaxation oscillator. From
a 90 to 100 volt DC source, connect a series resistor, with a capacitor
across the bulb. Perhaps 470K Ohms and 1 uF. Try different values to
change the flashing rate. For smaller values, it can be used as an
audio oscillator.
Another variation is to have several bulbs, each with its series
resistor. But the capacitors are connected from bulb to bulb in a ring.
The result is a somewhat random flashing. I once built one with 5
generic neon lamps using two small 45 Volt batteries in series. Some
people would become engrossed, trying to figure out the flashing
sequence!
Fred
Ha ! I built one too when I was an apprentice. I seem to think that the
circuit was in Practically Witless magazine. There used to be an aerosol
deodorant at the time which had a blue spherical cap. I had about 12
neons in my version, and had them poked through holes in one of those
caps - a bit like a WW2 sea mine. Quite by chance, the neon that flashed
slowest was the one that poked vertically out of the top. It was all run
from a single 90 volt battery, housed in a box made from modeling
plasticard under the deodorant cap. The one thing that I do recall is
that it also had a switch to alter the way the neons flashed. I seem to
remember that one leg of all the neons were joined together and
connected to battery -ve. Likewise, one leg of all the caps were joined
together. When they were left 'floating', the flash of the individual
neons was very 'soft' and hypnotic and random. The switch took the
commoned capacitor legs to battery -ve. With the switch closed, the
flashes were much 'sharper' making the whole display much more
'frenetic' looking. The current drain was so small that a battery lasted
a year or more (which was just as well, as they were expensive. I think
I still have a bunch of neons somewhere. I might try knocking one up
again ...
Arfa
When I was about 10, I had a Tandy Radio Shack kit of 5 neon bulbs in a
row, that had a plastic box.... oh, hang on - let google find an image ..
(later)
that, the Science Fair Goofy-Lite
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/130P1.JPG
The Radio Shack, Science Fair, P-Box kits
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/pbox.html
Interesting that it flickered differently in the dark, or with ones
finger acted up differently.
Ran from 6V. There was an option of making it sequential rather than random.
Schematic
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/130P6.JPG
I also built the Three Transistor Short Wave Regenerative Receiver kit
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/110P1.JPG
Happy Days. Had to be quick with the soldering iron or the box would melt
--
Adrian C
In article <695088d6-14d7-496c-9495-a44d9e55306f@googlegroups.com>,
heathjohn2@gmail.com says...
... Neat trick that you can do with the old variable capacity plate
tuner. Charge it to 30 volts with a neon bulb across. When you turn the
tuning knob to open the plates the neon bulb will flash? With only 30
volts how could it flash a neon bulb with a 80 volt trigger voltage?
I wish I'd thought of doing that. But I'm amazed it works, even with
beautifully cleaned insulators on your capacitor.
Good demonstration of relationship between charge, voltage and capacity.
(Analogue of skater's pirouette?)
Mike.
On 03/12/15 02:27, Arfa Daily wrote:
"Fred McKenzie" <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in message
news:fmmck-C855FA.10123121112015@5ad64b5e.bb.sky.com...
In article <n2o178$ktt$1@dont-email.me>,
Madness <policedept@thedonutshop.com> wrote:
Just acquired a bunch of these lamps. They're in the same mini-bayonet
style as lamps like the #44/47. But would anyone know if these lamps
can
be connected directly to 120 volts? Or do they need a resistor, @ if
so,
what value?
Madness-
NE-51 does NOT have a resistor inside!
One thing you can do with them, is build a relaxation oscillator. From
a 90 to 100 volt DC source, connect a series resistor, with a capacitor
across the bulb. Perhaps 470K Ohms and 1 uF. Try different values to
change the flashing rate. For smaller values, it can be used as an
audio oscillator.
Another variation is to have several bulbs, each with its series
resistor. But the capacitors are connected from bulb to bulb in a ring.
The result is a somewhat random flashing. I once built one with 5
generic neon lamps using two small 45 Volt batteries in series. Some
people would become engrossed, trying to figure out the flashing
sequence!
Fred
Ha ! I built one too when I was an apprentice. I seem to think that the
circuit was in Practically Witless magazine. There used to be an aerosol
deodorant at the time which had a blue spherical cap. I had about 12
neons in my version, and had them poked through holes in one of those
caps - a bit like a WW2 sea mine. Quite by chance, the neon that flashed
slowest was the one that poked vertically out of the top. It was all run
from a single 90 volt battery, housed in a box made from modeling
plasticard under the deodorant cap. The one thing that I do recall is
that it also had a switch to alter the way the neons flashed. I seem to
remember that one leg of all the neons were joined together and
connected to battery -ve. Likewise, one leg of all the caps were joined
together. When they were left 'floating', the flash of the individual
neons was very 'soft' and hypnotic and random. The switch took the
commoned capacitor legs to battery -ve. With the switch closed, the
flashes were much 'sharper' making the whole display much more
'frenetic' looking. The current drain was so small that a battery lasted
a year or more (which was just as well, as they were expensive. I think
I still have a bunch of neons somewhere. I might try knocking one up
again ...
Arfa
When I was about 10, I had a Tandy Radio Shack kit of 5 neon bulbs in a
row, that had a plastic box.... oh, hang on - let google find an image ..
(later)
that, the Science Fair Goofy-Lite
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/130P1.JPG
The Radio Shack, Science Fair, P-Box kits
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/pbox.html
Interesting that it flickered differently in the dark, or with ones finger
acted up differently.
Ran from 6V. There was an option of making it sequential rather than
random.
Schematic
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/130P6.JPG
I also built the Three Transistor Short Wave Regenerative Receiver kit
http://my.core.com/~sparktron/110P1.JPG
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:
In article <MPG.30bc10d3dc17351d9896a5@news.plus.net>,
gravity@mjcoon.plus.com says...
* As an apprentice project, I built a clock that used four 5x7 blocks of
neons for a digital display.
See https://picasaweb.google.com/111741851908838288378/CEDRICProject?
authuser=0&feat=directlink
Nice case. How old is that thing? What's inside?