Multi-conductor control cable: PVC vs.

On 11/17/2015 11:33 PM, DaveC wrote:
16-conductor stranded, 24 awg or smaller, color-coded or numbered, single
shield (foil or braid), oil-resistant jacket. Please try yourself. I’ve had
no luck. I’m not saying one doesn’t exit, but it’s not easy to find.

And cut to order (no 100 ft rolls, please–I need only 12 feet).

I can get you everything but the 12 foot section, and from multiple
sources. There are lots of cables that fit your requirements. It will
be hard to find such a short length of a specialized cable. You should
look for a local supplier. I used to work in a shop where they sold all
manner of wires and tubing in short lengths... but then again that place
went out of business a long time ago.

--

Rick
 
On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 20:45:05 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> wrote:

I have forty years experience in designing and building machine tool,
robotic and automations systems. Whenever I require a cable that might be
exposed to oil or coolant contamination, or will encounter high rates of
flexing I only specify Olflex. It's more expensive than most, but a lot
less expensive than failure and replacement.

I appreciate that this is, enviably, wonderful cable. But it comes in minimum
size of 20 awg. If only it met all my requirements.

My need is for a hand-controller (think Atari joystick)–carrying milliamps.
20 awg is overkill at the expense of weight, diameter, and (arguably) greater
flexibility.

Thanks.

The Alpha products go down to 26AWG ~ typical of com cables, with
twisted pair varieties. It's kind of difficult to determine the guages
in the Olflex info, due to notation method in product tables, but I'm
pretty sure they'll offer the same thing. By the way, PVC=Vinyl, oil
and chemical resistant or otherwise.

RL
 
By the way, PVC=Vinyl, oil
and chemical resistant or otherwise.

RL

Insulation is rarely PVC-only––that would be plumbing pipe. It’s the
plasticizers mixed with the PVC that make it flexible and may not be
oil-resistant. Wash that in a petroleum product and the plasticizers give up
the ghost.
 
Your best and cheapest solution may be to use a VTN-200 heat shrink to
cover your standard PVC sheathed multicore. VTN-200 shrink is chemical
and oil resistant and easily available. eg. Ebay # 251726064642 Might be
an idea NOT to shrink it as it is more flexible unshrunk.

That’s a great idea. I’ll check it out.

Thanks.
 
On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 09:41:54 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

Your best and cheapest solution may be to use a VTN-200 heat shrink to
cover your standard PVC sheathed multicore. VTN-200 shrink is chemical
and oil resistant and easily available. eg. Ebay # 251726064642 Might be
an idea NOT to shrink it as it is more flexible unshrunk.

That’s a great idea. I’ll check it out.

Thanks.

Shrinking the right size choice can be flexible, but also then becomes
THICKER, as in a better armor against abrasion.
 
On 11/18/2015 12:51 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 09:41:54 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

Your best and cheapest solution may be to use a VTN-200 heat shrink to
cover your standard PVC sheathed multicore. VTN-200 shrink is chemical
and oil resistant and easily available. eg. Ebay # 251726064642 Might be
an idea NOT to shrink it as it is more flexible unshrunk.

That’s a great idea. I’ll check it out.

Thanks.

Shrinking the right size choice can be flexible, but also then becomes
THICKER, as in a better armor against abrasion.
Good point, choose the diameter carefully depending on whether you
intend to shrink it or not.
 
On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 13:19:42 -0500, JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> Gave
us:

On 11/18/2015 12:51 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 09:41:54 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

Your best and cheapest solution may be to use a VTN-200 heat shrink to
cover your standard PVC sheathed multicore. VTN-200 shrink is chemical
and oil resistant and easily available. eg. Ebay # 251726064642 Might be
an idea NOT to shrink it as it is more flexible unshrunk.

That’s a great idea. I’ll check it out.

Thanks.

Shrinking the right size choice can be flexible, but also then becomes
THICKER, as in a better armor against abrasion.

Good point, choose the diameter carefully depending on whether you
intend to shrink it or not.

Depending on whether you want the item you are shrinking over to be
grasped tightly by the shrink or not.

I have shrank tubing over a ferrite rod and noticed that a poor choice
results in a bit of magnetostriction. I choose one that fully shrinks
but still does not quite 'grasp' the rod. I get multiple benefits. No
more magnetostriction and a thicker spacing from the rod to my
subsequent winding, resulting in less parasitic capacitance and a better
antenna/inductor/transformer, etc.
 
On Wed, 18 Nov 2015 09:00:48 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> wrote:

By the way, PVC=Vinyl, oil
and chemical resistant or otherwise.

RL

Insulation is rarely PVC-only––that would be plumbing pipe. It’s the
plasticizers mixed with the PVC that make it flexible and may not be
oil-resistant. Wash that in a petroleum product and the plasticizers give up
the ghost.

The spec sheet for either Alpha or Lapp products will list the degree
of resistance to oil or chemicals. I don't know what you go by, but
gasoline and other solvents don't tend to hang around - they may
sometimes be intentionally used in cleaning, but only under 'user
beware' conditions. Both mfrs sell on-line. Alpha will cut.

Mogami has made superior products for a long time before being
purchased by OKI. I doubt quality has suffered, but they do not and
have never addressed industrial environmental requirements - that's
not their market.

Get off the pot.

RL
 
In article <punp4bd0sg9d573f682t30erftq5p6jq7j@4ax.com>,
legg@nospam.magma.ca says...
The spec sheet for either Alpha or Lapp products will list the degree
of resistance to oil or chemicals. I don't know what you go by, but
gasoline and other solvents don't tend to hang around - they may
sometimes be intentionally used in cleaning, but only under 'user
beware' conditions. Both mfrs sell on-line. Alpha will cut.

Good point... The ends of the shrink shroud will have to be protected to
ensure that the oil does not get inside. Otherwise it will "hang
around" doing its worst!

Mike.
 
Good point... The ends of the shrink shroud will have to be protected to
ensure that the oil does not get inside. Otherwise it will "hang
around" doing its worst!

Mike.

I will put RTV in the end of the shrink and apply heat. Shrink-n-seal. All
this will be well inside the multipin connector so will be clamped with
strain relief.

Thanks.
 
On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 08:25:33 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

Good point... The ends of the shrink shroud will have to be protected to
ensure that the oil does not get inside. Otherwise it will "hang
around" doing its worst!

Mike.

I will put RTV in the end of the shrink and apply heat. Shrink-n-seal. All
this will be well inside the multipin connector so will be clamped with
strain relief.

Thanks.

No. Do not do that. RTV detaches with a sneeze.

Use "lined" shrink tubing for the cable end dress..

A shorter piece, and when heated, it exudes a sealant internally.

One way to source it is to search for "HV heat shrink". It is usually
of the lined variety.
 
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:39:21 -0500, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> Gave us:

On 11/15/2015 2:47 PM, DaveC wrote:
silicone
Jamie

Suppliers of such cables?

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but this is a question that a
simple google search should give good results for. Have you tried
googling for silicone and the other parameters you require?

Jamie is an idiot. Silicone wires are typically for HV. They are
also typically of the single variety, as in not a bundle of conductors
for use in making a cable.

HV ganged together usually exhibits corona issues, and is therefore
not often done, so finding single silicone wires might be easy, but
fashioning lightweight cables from it is not very feasible.

Philbrook is an electrical buffoon.
 
On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 20:33:57 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

16-conductor stranded, 24 awg or smaller, color-coded or numbered, single
shield (foil or braid), oil-resistant jacket. Please try yourself. I’ve had
no luck. I’m not saying one doesn’t exit, but it’s not easy to find.

And cut to order (no 100 ft rolls, please–I need only 12 feet).

Thanks.

Use what you have and place kynar or other heat shrink over it.
 
On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 11:46:35 -0500, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno
<DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> Gave us:

On Thu, 19 Nov 2015 08:25:33 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

Good point... The ends of the shrink shroud will have to be protected to
ensure that the oil does not get inside. Otherwise it will "hang
around" doing its worst!

Mike.

I will put RTV in the end of the shrink and apply heat. Shrink-n-seal. All
this will be well inside the multipin connector so will be clamped with
strain relief.

Thanks.


No. Do not do that. RTV detaches with a sneeze.

Use "lined" shrink tubing for the cable end dress..

A shorter piece, and when heated, it exudes a sealant internally.

One way to source it is to search for "HV heat shrink". It is usually
of the lined variety.

https://www.google.com/search?q=adhesive+lined+heat+shrink+tubing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
 
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote

> Use "lined" shrink tubing for the cable end dress..

OK, thanks. Will do.
 
On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 17:34:05 -0800, DaveC <not@home.cow> Gave us:

>FYI, Alpha Cable sampled me the cable in the length I need. Great!

Did they also sample you a couple of 6 inch pieces with adhesive
lining? You were gonna seal up the ends, remember?
 
FYI, Alpha Cable sampled me the cable in the length I need. Great!
 

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