Most efficient way to get 1.5 volts from 3.7 volts or less?

On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 18:10:58 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/26/2017 5:41 PM:
On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 17:17:45 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:

etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/22/2017 2:15 PM:
I have a digital height gauge that eats batteries. Not a cheap Chinese
made one, but a fairly high quality Japanese made one. It uses one
SR44 battery. For some reason it has started using batteries much
faster than it used to. I have tried several different brands of
batteries from several different sources and they all seem to last
about the same. Because of the bulk of the sliding portion of the
gauge I could easily attach a lithium coin cell holder and associated
voltage dropping circuitry. Even a couple AA size batteries. I did try
a typical alkaline AA cell but it didn't last much longer than a
button cell. I think this is because the display starts flashing when
the battey voltage drops to 1.45 volts or less. So what would be best
for the longest battery life?
Thanks,
Eric

There was a Kickstarter project for a clip on switching converter for AA
cells that would provide a constant output voltage as the battery drained.
It was barely larger than the AA cell so could be used in the same socket
designed for the AA cell. The question is what voltage it would put out
since your device seems to be abnormally sensitive to the voltage.
Yeah, I'm not certain how high it can go. I know 5.5 volts is OK
because that's what the silver oxide cells measure when new. It's too
bad the display flashes when the voltage drops to 4.5.
Eric

I assume those are typos and you actually mean 1.55 or 1.5 volts and 1.45
volts?
I should proofread my posts better. 1.55 volts and 1.45 are indeed the
correct voltages.
Eric
 
On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 08:28:44 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Friday, September 22, 2017 at 2:14:58 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
I have a digital height gauge that eats batteries. Not a cheap Chinese
made one, but a fairly high quality Japanese made one. It uses one
SR44 battery. For some reason it has started using batteries much
faster than it used to. I have tried several different brands of
batteries from several different sources and they all seem to last
about the same. Because of the bulk of the sliding portion of the
gauge I could easily attach a lithium coin cell holder and associated
voltage dropping circuitry. Even a couple AA size batteries. I did try
a typical alkaline AA cell but it didn't last much longer than a
button cell. I think this is because the display starts flashing when
the battey voltage drops to 1.45 volts or less. So what would be best
for the longest battery life?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, I'd troll digikey looking for DC-DC converters.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/power-supplies-board-mount/dc-dc-converters/922?k=&pkeyword=&pv1989=0&FV=15c0002%2C17d40027%2C17d40030%2C17d40034%2C17d4020b%2Cffe0039a%2C1c0011%2C1c0002%2C1c0003%2C1c0006&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=100

(A long link.. sorry)

George H.
Greetings George,
I looked and found a couple with apprpriate specs except for the
miniscule size and the location of the solder pads. I did see an
evaluation board described though. I still need to see if one is
available and cheap enough. I also need to figure out if the noise
coming from a DC-DC converter will upset the electronics in my gauge.
Not sure how to do that yet.
Eric
 
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 12:01:40 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 08:28:44 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Friday, September 22, 2017 at 2:14:58 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
I have a digital height gauge that eats batteries. Not a cheap Chinese
made one, but a fairly high quality Japanese made one. It uses one
SR44 battery. For some reason it has started using batteries much
faster than it used to. I have tried several different brands of
batteries from several different sources and they all seem to last
about the same. Because of the bulk of the sliding portion of the
gauge I could easily attach a lithium coin cell holder and associated
voltage dropping circuitry. Even a couple AA size batteries. I did try
a typical alkaline AA cell but it didn't last much longer than a
button cell. I think this is because the display starts flashing when
the battey voltage drops to 1.45 volts or less. So what would be best
for the longest battery life?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, I'd troll digikey looking for DC-DC converters.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/power-supplies-board-mount/dc-dc-converters/922?k=&pkeyword=&pv1989=0&FV=15c0002%2C17d40027%2C17d40030%2C17d40034%2C17d4020b%2Cffe0039a%2C1c0011%2C1c0002%2C1c0003%2C1c0006&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=100

(A long link.. sorry)

George H.
Greetings George,
I looked and found a couple with apprpriate specs except for the
miniscule size and the location of the solder pads. I did see an
evaluation board described though. I still need to see if one is
available and cheap enough. I also need to figure out if the noise
coming from a DC-DC converter will upset the electronics in my gauge.
Not sure how to do that yet.
Eric

Does cost matter? (As long as less than ~$20 or something.)
(It's going to take you at least an hour to f-around and get it working.)

I was looking at this murata one
https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Murata%20PDFs/LXDC3EPxxA.pdf

It looks like it wants to at least source 100 mA... or it gets noisier.
You might want to measure the current draw of your device.

I don't suppose you can power your device from a wall wart?

Noise effecting operation. Right that's hard to know without something
to work with, test. Say can you get into your gauge? I wonder if
the source of the excess current draw is due to capacitors that have gone
bad?

George H.
 
etpm@whidbey.com wrote on 9/27/2017 12:01 PM:
On Tue, 26 Sep 2017 08:28:44 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Friday, September 22, 2017 at 2:14:58 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
I have a digital height gauge that eats batteries. Not a cheap Chinese
made one, but a fairly high quality Japanese made one. It uses one
SR44 battery. For some reason it has started using batteries much
faster than it used to. I have tried several different brands of
batteries from several different sources and they all seem to last
about the same. Because of the bulk of the sliding portion of the
gauge I could easily attach a lithium coin cell holder and associated
voltage dropping circuitry. Even a couple AA size batteries. I did try
a typical alkaline AA cell but it didn't last much longer than a
button cell. I think this is because the display starts flashing when
the battey voltage drops to 1.45 volts or less. So what would be best
for the longest battery life?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, I'd troll digikey looking for DC-DC converters.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/power-supplies-board-mount/dc-dc-converters/922?k=&pkeyword=&pv1989=0&FV=15c0002%2C17d40027%2C17d40030%2C17d40034%2C17d4020b%2Cffe0039a%2C1c0011%2C1c0002%2C1c0003%2C1c0006&mnonly=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=100

(A long link.. sorry)

George H.
Greetings George,
I looked and found a couple with apprpriate specs except for the
miniscule size and the location of the solder pads. I did see an
evaluation board described though. I still need to see if one is
available and cheap enough. I also need to figure out if the noise
coming from a DC-DC converter will upset the electronics in my gauge.
Not sure how to do that yet.
Eric

I was going to give you a link where you can buy a batteroo boost which
should do all this for $2.50 each. But it seems they don't maintain the
output voltage very well. There is something jiggy going on at the top end
where the output voltage quickly drops with the input. This may be a pass
through mode which seems to switch out a bit below 1.45 volts where it
switches to boost mode. So it would drop below your 1.45 volt threshold for
a bit. It then continues to maintain a voltage of 1.45 volts until the
input reaches 1.3 volts below which the output drops below 1.45 volts again.
Seems the lack of output regulation is likely by design so the Batteroo
Boost will work with device gas gauges.

Not sure it will work for you or not. Might be worth a try though. If your
device will get past the 1.45 volt switching point it will at least let the
AA cell work down to 1.3 volts. It's only $10 plus shipping I suppose and
no construction required other than hacking a AAA/AA cell holder to your
device.

https://www.batteroo.com/products/aaa-sleeve-15/

--

Rick C

Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998
 
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 10:41:26 AM UTC-7, George Herold wrote:
> On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 12:01:40 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:

[about DC/DC converters for battery adaptation]

... I still need to see if one is
available and cheap enough. I also need to figure out if the noise
coming from a DC-DC converter will upset the electronics in my gauge.

Does cost matter? (As long as less than ~$20 or something.)
(It's going to take you at least an hour to f-around and get it working.)

Mainly, DC/DC converters aren't as energy-stingy as you'd want.
For low quiescent drain, in the absence of a switch, the linear regulators
win (and some have an 'enable' line, to take a switch).

If the threshold is "$20 or something", bear in mind that DigiKey sells
fifty A76 cells (one of the LR44 variant labels, from Energizer) for $21.

If you could replace the 'takes four screws' fitting with a bayonet-mount,
would that help?

If a solar cell could be cemented on, would normal shop lighting
be enough to get readings?
 
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 6:35:56 PM UTC-4, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 10:41:26 AM UTC-7, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 12:01:40 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:

[about DC/DC converters for battery adaptation]

... I still need to see if one is
available and cheap enough. I also need to figure out if the noise
coming from a DC-DC converter will upset the electronics in my gauge.

Does cost matter? (As long as less than ~$20 or something.)
(It's going to take you at least an hour to f-around and get it working.)

Mainly, DC/DC converters aren't as energy-stingy as you'd want.
For low quiescent drain, in the absence of a switch, the linear regulators
win (and some have an 'enable' line, to take a switch).

If the threshold is "$20 or something", bear in mind that DigiKey sells
fifty A76 cells (one of the LR44 variant labels, from Energizer) for $21.

If you could replace the 'takes four screws' fitting with a bayonet-mount,
would that help?

If a solar cell could be cemented on, would normal shop lighting
be enough to get readings?

$20 is just my guess at a price point for a one of.

I did get this new linear product catalog the other day.
The LTC7800 claims an efficiency of >80% starting at abut 1 mA.
http://www.linear.com/product/LTC7800
(Eric, I'm not suggesting you use this part!)

George H.
 
On Wed, 27 Sep 2017 15:35:53 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>
wrote:

On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 10:41:26 AM UTC-7, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, September 27, 2017 at 12:01:40 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:

[about DC/DC converters for battery adaptation]

... I still need to see if one is
available and cheap enough. I also need to figure out if the noise
coming from a DC-DC converter will upset the electronics in my gauge.

Does cost matter? (As long as less than ~$20 or something.)
(It's going to take you at least an hour to f-around and get it working.)

Mainly, DC/DC converters aren't as energy-stingy as you'd want.
For low quiescent drain, in the absence of a switch, the linear regulators
win (and some have an 'enable' line, to take a switch).

If the threshold is "$20 or something", bear in mind that DigiKey sells
fifty A76 cells (one of the LR44 variant labels, from Energizer) for $21.

If you could replace the 'takes four screws' fitting with a bayonet-mount,
would that help?

If a solar cell could be cemented on, would normal shop lighting
be enough to get readings?

Adding a different mounting system for the cover would not be very
easy. I had thought about solar cells in the past but forgot about
them. Can a solar cell be paralleled with a silver oxide button cell
without causing the cell to leak? Or an LR44 alkaline cell?
The whole reason for adding the voltage regulator and outside coin
cell is to make battery changes less frequent and easier. And I can
mount a coin cell holder to the back of the gauge housing easily. With
a tiny reg and any associated circuitry soldered to the coin cell
holder.
Thanks,
Eric
 
On Thursday, September 28, 2017 at 8:55:36 AM UTC-7, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Wed, 27 Sep 2017 15:35:53 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com
wrote:

If a solar cell could be cemented on, would normal shop lighting
be enough to get readings?

Adding a different mounting system for the cover would not be very
easy. I had thought about solar cells in the past but forgot about
them. Can a solar cell be paralleled with a silver oxide button cell
without causing the cell to leak? Or an LR44 alkaline cell?

If you put the regulator in the batt socket,and maybe a 5V Zener to keep the input in limits,
you could snake out two wires and fit your choice of Li button cell or
solar cell, or any variation with rechargeables or AA's. Or
three wires, and a switch.

Ideal, for me, would be a few batteries in bayonet-mount housings, that
I could detach at will. I'm currently doing the battery-remove-for-storage
thing with a couple of cheapo calipers, and the loose parts are just TOO
prone to damage or capture by gremlins.
 

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