Mosquito Sound

In article <4123CEFA.4D9A565E@aaa.com>,
Jan-Erik Söderholm <aaa@aaa.com> wrote:

It's easy. Each succsessfull bud adds 5-10 minutes to the end time.
Just as in any real live auction.
"Any", not "many". There have been (and, I believe, still are) quite
a few real-life "live" auctions which have fixed closing times.

The auctioner always waits
until there is no more bids.
Again, not "always" - just "usually".

If I'm overbid, I'm always
given the oportunity to re-bid.
This could be done. However, it leaves the auctions open to another
form of problem - indeterminate closing times. You could end up with
an auction being stretched out for many hours, with each participant
"raising" the other by only the minimum each time a few seconds before
the auction is due to close.

This whould make sure
the all eBay auctions *always* are won by the one willing
to pay the most !
.... or the one who is the least exhausted. Snipers might still be
able to win an advantage over live "real-time" bidders, by just
outlasting them... wait until 20 seconds before the five-minute
extension runs out, then raise the bid by a minimum increment.
Lather, rinse, repeat. Pretty easily done using automated tools.

This style of auction certainly reduces the advantage that snipers
have. However, it could tend to increase the amount of time and
attention that a bidder would have to pay to any given auction, since
they wouldn't know in advance when the auction would close. If this
makes the bidding experience more frustrating for the buyers, it could
work against eBay's best interests. Similarly, if this approach
results in higher overall winning bids than eBay's, it might be more
attractive to sellers but less attractive to buyers.

I'll be interested to see whether those eBay competitors who use an
open-bid, open-ended-time auction process end up being able to
convince people that this is a "better" system for the buyers (or the
sellers) than eBay's particular option model.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
George Francis wrote:
Hi:
I need a monochrome monitor ....small 8 or 9 inch or smaller,....needs
to support composite video and have decent resolution. Any for sale?
Thanks, George
You could convert a mac plus,512,128 or SE,SE30.
Its tube is 9 inches and the scan rates were the same as the old
hercules monitors can't remember just what the numbers were!

regards Andrew
 
George Francis wrote:
Hi:
I need a monochrome monitor ....small 8 or 9 inch or smaller,....needs
to support composite video and have decent resolution. Any for sale?
Thanks, George
The *best* mono monitor ever made was the IBM one that was sold for
the PC/XT.
Green phosphor, so very easy on the eyes, and best of all, the
characters were Letter quality (14 dots by 12 or so). However, that
high quality of characters came from the video board...
 
Dave Platt wrote:
If I'm overbid, I'm always given the oportunity to re-bid.

This could be done. However, it leaves the auctions open to another
form of problem - indeterminate closing times. You could end up with
an auction being stretched out for many hours, with each participant
"raising" the other by only the minimum each time a few seconds before
the auction is due to close.
Well, my guess is that you will pretty fast reach whatever
the bidders find to be their maximum anyway. And since you
know up front, that you can not "snipe" anymore, you could
just bid days in advance. So many auction could have there
bidding settled long before the time runs out. Who knows...

If this makes the bidding experience more frustrating for the buyers,...
Hm, *I* have been pretty frustrated when beeing outbid and *not*
beeing able to reply with a higher bid...

I'll be interested to see whether those eBay competitors who use an
open-bid, open-ended-time auction process end up being able to
convince people that this is a "better" system for the buyers (or the
sellers) than eBay's particular option model.
Agree.

Jan-Erik.
 
"Mark" <bigfathhairybiker@MAILhot(swapemround).com> wrote in message
news:4123165a$0$20257$ed9e5944@reading.news.pipex.net...
The way to stop sniping is to always have to type in a "displayed"
number in
order to bid. This displayed" number would be like the bitmapped
numbers on
some security systems where a slightly squewed picture of a number is
displayed for verification.
That doesn't stop sniping. That may stop sniping software, but humans
can still wait until the last few seconds to snipe you.

So ebay starts using your method, called "CAPTCHA" or Turing Test. Some
enterprising individual will then start a biz of sniping for those who
can't be in person at the end of an auction. Probably will call it
proxy bidding or something like that.

Rather than use your method, I would think that it would be easier to
just delay a bidder's bid for a random amount of time, say somewhere
between 20 seconds and 120 seconds. If you submit your bid on or before
the deadline minus 2 minutes, you have 100% chance of bidding. But
after that, your bid may be delayed past the ending point.

Some bastard spammers from hell had software to auto sign up accounts on
Hotmail, but were blocked after Hotmail started using CAPTCHA images.
The spammers then started some porn website where the user had to type
in the number in the image to gain entry. Well, you guessed it. The
spammers were using the porn site to sign up accounts on Hotmail.
 
"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in
message news:10i2r86elv4oe6b@corp.supernews.com...
<Snip>
For quite awhile I've been noticing that a few sellers have trashed up
the transistors listings for months; they sell supposedly 'vintage'
transistors for outrageous prices, and continually relist the same items
over and over, ad nauseum, with never a single bid. This, to me
indicates they're way overpriced and probably not really what the seller
says they are. One seller in particular really bothers me and probably
everyone else. They go by the name Goldenopportunities1, and sell just
a few transistors for a minimum bid of $10, charge $6 shipping for just
a few transistors, do not accept Paypal, and continually re-list the
same items over and over, making it tedious to browse thru all the
listings.
While I'm not defending GoldenO since I don't like his terms any more than you
do, he is running an eBay Store so you should expect to see him to re-list his
"inventory". I usually don't see much of his stuff unless I select "See
additional Buy It Now items from eBay Store sellers" so I see the eBay Store
Buy-it-Now items. As you pointed out, being able to exclude specific sellers is
a very nice feature, particulary when you have no intention of buying from them
under any circumstances. That eBay included it is a bit suprising since eBay
usually caters more to the sellers since they really pay for the service.



--
James T. White
SPAMjtwhiteGUARD@SPAMhal-pcGUARD.org

Note: Remove SPAM-GUARD to reply.
 
"George Francis" <w3ase@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:9b58ea86.0408191026.e1cf8d@posting.google.com...
: "Roger Gt" <not@here.net> wrote in message
news:<28OUc.18$Rp6.6@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com>...
: > "George Francis" <w3ase@comcast.net> wrote in message
: > news:9b58ea86.0408180638.34c8a066@posting.google.com...
: > : Hi:
: > : I need a monochrome monitor ....small 8 or 9 inch or
: > smaller,....needs
: > : to support composite video and have decent resolution. Any
for
: > sale?
: > : Thanks, George
: >
: > Maybe! To what city would it need to be shipped?
: >
: > Green color phosphor okay?
:
: Roger: Thanks for the reply. I am in Lancaster, Pa. Green
should
: be Ok. What is the bottom dollar line. What is screen size?
Small I
: hope. Regards, George

I think it is 9 inches. But I have access to larger ones.

I'll unpack it and get back to you....
 
Hi!

You could sent it to someone who could read the data for you, or you
could build your own reader - I built a reader to crack secured PALs,
but it could easily read EPROMs or Flash:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/palcracker/

You would just need to expand the number of output address lines from 10
to.....whatever you need! And, you wouldn't need the ADC either, just
read the data from the flash straight back into the computer.

Yours, Mark.

Paul wrote:

I have a 48-ball BGA flash chip that I'd like to read the data off of.
Are there other ways of doing this besides buying an expensive device
programmer? I tried seraching google and didn't have a lot of luck on
finding anything. If anyone has any ideas on how this can be done
please let me know. Thanks!

-=PJ=-
 
Hi,
sorry i don't have your request and I hope you found the schematic of
HM204-1.
I am looking for HM204-2 diagrams. AS you wrote you have it and I will
thankful if you send it to me.

Thanks
 
"yar" <st_yar@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:9581531f.0408241706.586e1783@posting.google.com...
the second thing is the transformer I ask some one he tell me
that it is called (shopper) this shopper numder (BC1B8A 902GF)I want
a replacement
the shopper but I didn't find it what is the function of the shopper
transformer

Probably "chopper" rather than "shopper".

Your messages would be much easier to read for English speakers if you put a
period at the end of each sentence, and exactly one space between each word.
I understand that is less important in Arabic (you seem to be posting
through an ISP in Egypt), but it is very helpful in English.
 
Hi Daniel,

Another way: If you know the resistance/lenght of the wire, you may put
another big resinstance in paralell and sense the current trough the
later. I1=R2ˇI2/R1 where R2 is the small wire resistance, and R1 is the
big paralell one. Anyhow, I recommend to isolate from there before
entering the microcontroller.

Tim Perry wrote:
"Daniel Rudy"
i0n1v2a3l4i5d6d7c8r9u0d1y2e3m4a5i6l7@n0o1p2a3c4b5e6l7l8s9p0a1m2.3n4e5t6
wrote in message news:az5Pc.5293$AY5.240@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...

Hello Everyone!

I've ran into a situation where I need to sense a very large flow of
current (100A) at 24VDC or so. This is for a motor supply feed. The
problem that I'm running into is isolation because there is a
microcontroller that is part of the control circuit that electrically
needs to stay away from this line as its powered from a different
source. So far, there are two ways that I'm aware of to do this:

1. Use a very low value resistor (I would need a few in parallel),
sense and amplify the voltage across that. Then feed that into a
voltage to frequency converter so it can be sent across an opto-isolator
and then on to a timer on the microcontroller.

2. Wind a couple of turns of the main feed wire onto a torridal core
form. The torrid has a gap cut into it. Inside that gap is a hall
effect device that is epoxied into place. This inherently provides the
galvanic isolation that is required. After signal conditioning, the
analog voltage can be sent directly to a ADC input on the controller.

I would prefer to use #2 as that would be easier to implement, and it
seems to have a lower parts count. Accuracy in the area of 1 amp
resolution or better, if possible, would be good. Any advise, links,
etc. is appreciated. Thanks.

--
Daniel Rudy

Email address has been encoded to reduce spam.
Remove all numbers, then remove invalid, email, no, and spam to reply.


assuming this is a power supply and not a 24V battery, and assuming it is
unregulated: why not just put a standard toroidal pickup on the AC input to
the transformer? the resulting output it then rectified, filtered, and
calibrated.
any quiescent current will be so small in relation to the 100A load as to
be insignificant.

of course it might be a 3 phase input which would add to the complexity.
 
john Knight wrote:

I recently got an HP 16500A. I have a 15510B logic analyzer card in
it and the 400 megasample oscilloscope card set. The unit worked
fine, but the logic analyzer software didn't work because the software
was corrupted (CRC error message)

I upgraded to version 6 software in hopes of solving the problem, but
I cannot get the unit to work now. The software seems to load fine,
but when you display the configuration, it shows unrecognized cards
for all the cards. However, if you run test from the front panel it
correctly identifies the three cards. If you try to do most anything
an error message appears "No configuration loaded." What am I doing
wrong? I can still load the old version and get the DSO to work.

I am new to this device so if I am asking something stupid I
appologize. I do not have manuals yet and just can't seem to find my
way past this. I will really appreciate any advice that is offered.
Thanks.

John Knight

John,
You probably don't have the module file on your disk. Check the contents
and see if you have it there. Did you ever get my boot disk to work?

Mike
 
john Knight wrote:
I recently got an HP 16500A. I have a 15510B logic analyzer card in
it and the 400 megasample oscilloscope card set. The unit worked
fine, but the logic analyzer software didn't work because the software
was corrupted (CRC error message)

I upgraded to version 6 software in hopes of solving the problem, but
I cannot get the unit to work now. The software seems to load fine,
but when you display the configuration, it shows unrecognized cards
for all the cards. However, if you run test from the front panel it
correctly identifies the three cards. If you try to do most anything
an error message appears "No configuration loaded." What am I doing
wrong? I can still load the old version and get the DSO to work.

I am new to this device so if I am asking something stupid I
appologize. I do not have manuals yet and just can't seem to find my
way past this. I will really appreciate any advice that is offered.
Thanks.

John Knight
The version 6 software for the 16500A usually arrives in six disks.

You will need to make a disk with these files on it:

SYSTEM_ (for 16500A mainframe)
SYSTEM_031 (for 16510A logic analyzer)
SYSTEM_011 (for 16530A/16531A oscilloscope)

This will be about all that can fit on one disk.

Or you can put DISK1 in the front drive and DISK4
in the rear drive then turn on the 16500A.
 
IFR put out a detailed "how to" Application Notes for the 1500. It shows
the setups for:

--Checking local oscillators & Xtals
--Measuring audio frequency response with tone sweep
--Measuring 12dB SINAD sensitivity
--Checking receiver IF bandwidth and symmetry
--Receiver RF filter alignment
--High accuracy FM deviation measurements using the Bessel null technique
--Measuring the output of very low power transmitters
--Measuring transmitter harmonics
--Stage gain measurements using the spectrum analyzer
--Analyzing receiver desense caused by intermodulation distortion
--Measuring isolation and insertion loss in Tx-Rx switches
--Synchronizing Simulcast Transmitters
--Measuring antenna isolation
--Tuning antennas for minimum VSWR
--Measuring center frequency insertion loss and 3dB points on cavities
--Transmitter cavity alignment
--Bandpass/band reject duplexer alignment
--Measuring receiver desense in a duplexed system
--Measuring receiver isolation at Tx and Rx frequencies
--Measuring Tx noise suppression at Rx frequency

The IFR part number is 1002-5001-500; it was originally printed in July
1986. I was lucky enough to get a copy from IFR for the $20 cover price
but they're much more expensive (if even available) from them now...but
well worth the cost. Note that the procedures listed above are not
covered either at all or very well in the operator manual.

GL -- Dino KLŘS/4


In article <dad85539.0408290618.561b27e7@posting.google.com>,
DrD@2020.com (Mike) wrote:

Dear Colleagues,


I just acquired an IFR 1500 Service Monitor (with options 01 and 02).


Though I have the operation manual I am seeking a book showing
various applications for this incredible device.


Anyone know of a book title dealing with the applications of service
monitors?


All replies welcomed..


Thanks,


Mike, W4XN
drd at 2020 dot com
 
Old rotors, use a linear potentiometer to monitor the antenna position
and measure the voltage across one side of the potentiometer and the
center pin.
Latest satellite dishes indicators use a read relay triggered by a
rotating magnet that sends one pulse per revolution. You must sense
the direction of the rotating shaft and convert the number of pulse
into a position.
Vlad

Vlad
On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 11:42:04 GMT, "CWatters"
<colin.watters@pandoraBOX.be> wrote:

"Mike" <jetboat_joy@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:7a40ecc5.0402291430.50127b15@posting.google.com...
.
I could design one myself - really just "cook book" stuff but getting
the control loop stable would be take a little mucking around.

Modern digital servos (for model aircraft) do some fancy tricks. Like
slowing down the motor as the output approaches the right position to
prevent overshoot and oscillation. I guess it all depends how accurate you
are trying to get it? (large deadband).
 
Dave Woolf wrote:
George:

I also have a 600B. The four batteries are indeed 9V,
but a very early model. They are 1 3/8" x 1 3/8" x
x 2 5/8". I kept one just for the heck of it
that I removed from my original meter. It is a
zinc carbon EVEREADY no. 246. (NEDA 1602) Don't known
if still available, but I would guess if they are
you would pay an arm and leg for them. I use regular
size 9 V alk. batteries with reasonable battery life.

You guessed correctly the small cylindrical battery
is indeed a mercury cell (1.35 volts if I remember).
I kept it also but can't seem to locate it right now.
Good luck finding a replacement. I went looking for one
several years ago and found that it is illegal (Federal
Environmental Law) to sell or even import batteries
containing mercury. Never found a source. If you do
let me know. Since it is used for the linear
Ohms scale using a regular alkaline battery will make
the scales significantly inaccurate. I think the
drain is extremely low so I thought about designing
a voltage regulator circuit running off a higher voltage
battery but never got around to doing it.

The 600B is a nice meter. I picked mine up for $10 at
Dayton HF one year. Don't have a schematic though. If
you get a lead on that let me know.

Dave Woolf - K8RSP
(If replying directly remove NOSPAM from above address)

George R. Gonzalez wrote:
HI, I have a clean-looking Keithley 600B electrometer.

Problem is, no manual, and no clue what kind of batteries it needs.

There's a small battery holder that maybe could hold a small old-style
(1/3 AA) mercury battery. And FOUR clips that would fit your basic 9V
006P, except the holding bracket for them is about 8 times too
volume-iffic.

Any hints appreciated.

Reagards,

George
Try a Zinc-Air battery.
My reference book sez "once activated, the voltage stabilizes between
1.40 and 1.45V. Drawing discharge current quickly lowers the voltage to
1.30 volts..".
So, maybe, one could start with an activated zinc-air cell and put a
calibrated load for a fixed (timed) period - just enough to result in a
no load voltage of 1.35V.
The next question would be how stable and for how long that voltage
remains.

Another possible solution, with better chance of stable long-term
voltage: a silver-oxide cell opposing a lithium cell (3.0V-1.6V=1.4V).
 
Jim Adney wrote...
George R. Gonzalez wrote:

HI, I have a clean-looking Keithley 600B electrometer.
Problem is, no manual...

Email me directly and remind me to look at my 600B and the manual.
-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
Jim, I'd very much like to look at your 600B manual, or at least
the schematic page.


--
Thanks,
- Win

(email: use hill_at_rowland-dotties-org for now)
 
HOLY CRAP DUDE!! That is some serious WireWrap you've got going there!

Nice one!

Yours, Mark.

Noel Meterparel wrote:

Hello, I will construct your engineering prototype free of charge, please see
http://www.excel-host.com/noel_volun_ww.htm for more information thanks
 

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