Marriage is under fire!!

"Confused Soul" <confused.mind@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ch5hl3$bhq@odbk17.prod.google.com...
The LED is supposed to indicate the digital data for eg....FSK output
freq1 as 0 and output freq2 as 1. ... this is in the switching
mode....where i get the digital data.
That is what a modem is for, right? What will you be driving the data
from -- the digital data or the FSK?
 
On 1 Sep 2004 10:24:25 -0700, JeffM wrote:

recycling center...dumpster diving
Active8


No maps to these treasure troves? :cool:
Not that they will do me any good. Decades since I was near the Chesapeake.
Same here. I can give you directions and maps to the place I hit in
PA, though
I build a new Linux box. It might be a bit slow for X windows

X Window (singular). Windows is from ThatOtherCompany.
Well. I was trying to remember which way XFree86 gets capitalized
and said f' it :)

When did we last speak, email, or meet? I haven't posted my last
name in a while. You even spelled it right :) I'm going through
Jeffs in my head... Fulmer, Carpenter,... drawing a blank, drawing a
beer...

Here. If you want to backchannel a message to me, use this:
i0u52xz02@sneakemail.com
--
Best Regards,
Mike
 
On 1 Sep 2004 14:03:14 -0700, "Confused Soul" <confused.mind@gmail.com>
wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I am a novice in Electronic Design. I need to drive an LED depending on
the signal I am getting out of a modem. The modem gives the output as
two different frequence (ie FSK modulated). I wanted to know different
ways to do this. As of now, I could come up with the following ideas.
Here's a handy tool for creating ASCII circuit diagrams. MUCH easier
than fighting to do it in a text editor:

http://www.tech-chat.de/AAcircuit.html

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
mike wrote:

I've already got the dimmable ballasts. The dimmer operates on a 0 to
12v signal in.

My question is, well... 2 questions:
(1) what's the difference between a photocell, phototransistor, and a
photoresistor?
You'd have to look up photocell - I think that one's kind of vague. A
phototransistor responds to light as if it were a signal to amplify,
and a photoresistor, or LDR, is like a resistor that changes value
depending on the light input.

The simplest thing of all would be just an LDR in a voltage divider,
but it probably wouldn't track well.

Next would be the LDR or PHT or even a photodiode and some circuitry
to make it track the dawn.

A third option would just be a ramp generator, that gives a very slow
ramp, say 1-2 hours, from 0 to 12 v. That's more or less the effect
you want anyway, right? Just set it for local dawn, give or take.

I know they already have these things off the shelf, that will slowly
dim the lights - single guys buy them for seduction purposes. ;-)

Good Luck!
Rich
 
RE: << I will be driving the LED from the FSK modulated output. >>

I'm having trouble driving my LED. The wheels won't stay on the axels.
 
On Thu, 02 Sep 2004 03:53:34 GMT, Robert C Monsen wrote:

<snip>
whew! :) Uh, Radio Sh*t, IMO is *not* a place to get cheap parts,
but it is cheapo. Can't let the OP get the wrong idea.

It does sound like a cute project, but do they still make those
alarm clock thingies? ;)
View with courier font:
While he's at it, he can google
12V VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV Wheatstone Bridge
| ___
o------ OUTSIDE LDR --o--------|___|--,
| | ___ | <
'------ INSIDE LDR --|---o----|___|--o <
| | A |
| | | |
| | '----o
/| | | |
to /+|--' | |
variable -< | | |
ballast \-|------' |
ctl \| |
GND
opamp (LM324?)

created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

snip

PS: The other option would be an alarm clock,
So they *do* still make them :)

or a light that turns on
on a timer...
What, to see how many daylight hours he's wasted sleeping?

What about a timer that turns on a light? I have a few. One turns on
the soldering station - if I can predict when I need it. One turns
off the work light - in case I leave the bench and crash in front of
the TV. The other is for future use. They work good for xmas lights,
too.
--
Best Regards,
Mike
 
I will be driving the LED from the FSK modulated output.
For optical communication, or to look at? Until just now I assumed you
wanted a visible display. Or are you using it to transmit data?

It will look the same to the eye at either frequency.
 
On 1 Sep 2004 14:03:14 -0700, "Confused Soul"
<confused.mind@gmail.com> wrote:

I am a novice in Electronic Design. I need to drive an LED depending on
the signal I am getting out of a modem. The modem gives the output as
two different frequence (ie FSK modulated).
you need a very narrow band audio filter IMHO 2-band for 1,1Khz &
2,1kHz to separate 0 & 1 signal (not sure about frequencies) first;
than IMHO aplify it to drive LEDs ... you can not do it directly IMHO
--
Regards, SPAJKY ÂŽ
& visit my site @ http://www.spajky.vze.com
"Tualatin OC-ed / BX-Slot1 / inaudible setup!"
E-mail AntiSpam: remove ##
 
"Dubs" <dubspam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:e3d356cd.0409012149.24b5f1c7@posting.google.com...
Rich Grise <null@example.net> wrote in message
news:<PlaZc.242$UR2.232@trnddc08>...

Run 240 with a neutral, and split the load at the shed.

Cheers!
Rich

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean. I'm a total newb at
electricity, sorry.
That's why I recommended a licensed electrician. It may be required by law
in your area that you use a licensed electrician. It's not excessively
expensive, and the house you keep from burning down will be your own.
 
On 2 Sep 2004 00:50:56 -0700, JeffM wrote:

No maps to these treasure troves? :cool:
Not that they will do me any good. Decades since I was near the Chesapeake.
JeffM

Same here.
Active8

I thought you were in the Baltimore area. Not close enough?
I worked in the Hampton Roads area for a year. Too cold for me.
I've mentioned Baltimore enough times that you'd think that. I'll
probably move back, too - at least for business. I'm acclimated to
that from the mid-west - brrr cold and windy.
When did we last speak, email, or meet?

Only in these groups.
Then you're pretty sharp. A quick check of sent emails didn't jog my
memory.
I haven't posted my last name in a while.

Just one WOP remembering another's surname from those old times.
http://www.google.com/search?&q=wop+without-papers+immigration
Hmm. Nice how google sometimes answers the question in the short
descriptions.

I figured you might have googled back through the groups but that
would've required an exhaustive search because there was a time I
was away from this group and when I came back, IIRC, I just dropped
the surname and went to the moniker - new ISP, too.

So your last name is Martini, right :cool:
--
Best Regards,
Mike
 
~Dude17~ wrote:
X-No-Archive: Yes

I've got a laser printer that draws current in spikes and it
makes the lights flicker as well as causing a UPS on the same circuit
to switch over to battery due to excessive dV/dT. Unfortunately, I
don't have a way of putting the printer on its own circuit unless I
want to use a long extension cord.
Your printer is already on its 'own' circuit -- if it wasn't, the lights would
get brighter, rather than dimmer/flicker.
 
Julie wrote:
~Dude17~ wrote:

X-No-Archive: Yes

I've got a laser printer that draws current in spikes and it
makes the lights flicker as well as causing a UPS on the same circuit
to switch over to battery due to excessive dV/dT. Unfortunately, I
don't have a way of putting the printer on its own circuit unless I
want to use a long extension cord.

Your printer is already on its 'own' circuit -- if it wasn't, the lights would
get brighter, rather than dimmer/flicker.
Scratch that -- outlets on a circuit aren't in series.
 
Hi,

150mV is a whole lot of noise. When you split the portions with a flex
and there isn't too much ground in the flex then part of the ground
return will inevitable be via the supply. That's when some of this 150mV
noise can be modulated back onto RF signals, clocks, PLL loops and so on.

Can you try to regulate the voltage going to the DTMF circuitry, or to
all the circuitry except for the PA? The idea would be to feed the PA
raw power and then the rest of the unit gets clean regulated power. You
can use a low drop-out regulator so you don't lose much in voltage. It
looks like there is some noise caused by the PA stage that ends up on
the supply rail and then enters the rest of the circuit. Alternatively,
you could try to decouple the PA but that's harder. There you either
need lots of capacitance and there may not be enough space for that, or
some kind of nifty current regulator that evens out the spikes being
sent from the PA.

One test I'd do for sure and it's easy: Lay a short and very wide copper
path, for example 3M copper foil, from one board to the other and see
whether the DTMF distortion drops to acceptable values.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
 
John, this should be archived on 'basics

Regards,
Bob Monsen

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:237fj0p1aba7pm745ilsinin1cbmmhbnl9@4ax.com...
On Wed, 01 Sep 2004 11:36:29 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

From last time:

PHEW... That's it for this installment. Next one will be: "Since
You
Have A Comparator Left Over What'll It Take To Turn It into A
Flasher?"

Stay tuned... :)


AND NOW, SPORTS FANS...


+-----+------+---------------------------------------+-----+
| | | |R3 |
| [634K] [316K] +-[634K]-+ R2 [2.4K] |
| | | | | +-[100K]-+ | |
+|9V +------|-----+--|+\ | R1 | | [LED] |
[BAT] | | U1A | >--+---[100K]--+--|+\ | |K |
| | 1.2V-+--------|-/ U1B| >--+---+ |
| | | +--|-/ | [LOAD]
| [78.7K][LM385] | R4 | |
| | | +-----------+----[1M]----+ |
| | | | R5 | |
| | | +----+-[100k]--[IN4148>]-+ |
| | | | | CR1 |
| | | C1[1ľF][10M]R6 |
| | | | | |
+-----+------+--------------+----+-------------------------+

That's the basic scheme, with component values chosen just to get us
off the ground and the plan being to provide something like a 10%
duty
cycle for the LED flash, with an on time of about 100ms and an off
time of about 900ms.

So, where do we start? With U1A.

With the battery voltage above about 6V, the output of U1A will
always
be high. If we can assure that when that's the case the + input of
U1B
will be higher than the - input, the output of U1B will also always
be
high when the output of U1A is high, and the LED will be off.

Let's assume, for some reason, that that's not the case and that we
have a transient condition where the output of U1B is driven low,
but
that we have the circuit connected to a fresh battery with a 9 volt
output. If that's true, then the output of U1A will be high, and
since R1 and R2 are equal resistances the voltage on U1B+ will be
half
the battery voltage; 4.5V.

Now, if the voltage on U1B- is higher than that, the output of U1B
will stay low and the LED will stay lit, but only for as long as it
will take for C1 to discharge to <4.5V through R4, R5, and CR1.
When
that happens, the output of U1B will go high, the LED will turn off,
U1B+ will go to 9V, and C1 will start charging through R4. Because
of
the offset voltage differences between U1B+ and - and the slight
differences in the output structures of U1A and B, it's conceivable
that when C1 charged up close to the supply voltage U1B- might go
enough higher than U1B+ to drive the output of U1B low, so R6 is in
there to prevent that from happening since it forms a voltage
divider
with R4 and is chosen to make sure that U1B- can never go higher
than
U1B+ when the outputs of U1A and B are both high. More on that
later.

Assume now that the battery voltage has fallen enough to cause the
output of U1A to go low. When that happens, U1B+ will go to about
3V,
making it less positive than U1B-. That will force the output of
U1B
low, which will turn on the LED and force C1 to start discharging
through R4, R5, and CR1 until U1B goes slightly less positive than
U1B+. When that happens, the output of U1B will go positive, the
LED
will go out, and C1 will start charging through R4 until U1B- goes
slightly more positive than U1B+, starting the cycle anew.

Notice that there is more resistance in the charge path than there
is
in the discharge path, which means that the capacitor will discharge
more quickly than it will charge. We can use this to tailor the
duty
cycle of the LED to be whatever we want, in this case about 10% with
a
total period of about 1 second.

But how do we choose the values of R and C to get us what we want?

Looking at R1 and R2 just at the threshold of switching, we can see
that when the output of U1A is high the circuit looks like this:

6V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 6V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
6V (U1B OUT)

Then, when U1A OUT goes low, forcing U1B OUT low:

0V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 0V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
0V (U1B OUT)

Then, when C1 discharges to 0V:

0V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 3V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
6V (U1B OUT)

Then, when it charges to 3V:

0V (U1A OUT)
|
[R1]
|
+---> 0V (U1B+)
|
[R2]
|
0V (U1B OUT)

Thereafter, U1B will continue to oscillate as the voltage on U1B+
switches from 3V to 0V, so our job becomes one of making C1 charge
from 0V to 3V in 100ms and making it discharge from 3V to 0V in
900ms.

But, we have a problem in that there's no guarantee that, even with
both comparator outputs low, U1B- will go lower than U1B+ when the
cap
discharges.

So we'll add a bias resistor (R7) to make sure that when both
comparator outputs are low U1B+ will be positive enough to allow the
cap to discharge below that voltage and switch the output high.

+-----+------+--------------------------+------------+-----+
| | | |R7 | |
| | | [100K] |R3 |
| [634K] [316K] +-[634K]-+ | R2 [2.4K] |
| | | | | +-[100K]-+ | |
+|9V +------|-----+--|+\ | R1 | | [LED] |
[BAT] | | U1A | >--+-[100K]----+--|+\ | |K |
| | 1.2V-+--------|-/ U1B| >--+---+ |
| | | +--|-/ | [LOAD]
| [78.7K][LM385] | R4 | |
| | | +-----------+----[1M]----+ |
| | | | R5 | |
| | | +----+-[100k]--[IN4148>]-+ |
| | | | | CR1 |
| | | C1[1ľF][10M]R6 |
| | | | | |
+-----+------+--------------+----+-------------------------+


If we choose R7 to be 100kohms, then with both comparator outputs
high
we'll have what amounts to:

6V 6V 6V
|R1 |R7 |R2
[100K] [100K] [100K]
| | |
+----------+---------+--->U1B+

So we'll wind up with the battery voltage on U1B+, which is what we
want, so that's OK.


With U1A OUT low and U1B OUT high (immediately after U1A OUT goes
low,
but before U1B out has a chance to switch) we'll have:


6V 6V
|R7 |R2
[100k] [100K]
| |
+----------+---------+--->U1B+
|R1
[100K]
|
GND

Which reduces to:

6V
|
[50K]
|
+---->4.0V (U1B+)
|R1
[100K]
|
GND

So, since at that moment the cap will be charged up to very nearly
6V,
U1B- will also be at 6V and the comparator's output will go low,
which
is what we want, so that's OK, too.

Now, a microsecond or so later, when U1B OUT goes low we'll have
what
amounts to:

6v
|R7
[100k]
|
+------+------+
| |
[100K] [100K]
| |
GND GND

which reduces to:

6V
|R7
[100K]
|
+---->2.0V (U1B+)
|
[50K]
|
GND

Which is also fine because the voltage on U1B- will still be more
positive than 2.0V and U1B OUT will stay low, lighting the LED and
discharging C1 through R4, R5, and CR1.

When C1 discharges to less than 2V the voltage on U1B- will be less
positive than the voltage on U1B+, which will make U1B OUT go high.
This will make the voltage on U1B+ go to 4V and will turn off the
LED
and start charging the capacitor through R4. Then, when C1 charges
up
to 4V it will cause U1B OUT to go low, starting the cycle anew.

Now, with U1B OUT switching between high and low we'll have (after
the
first discharge from 6V to 2V) C1 oscillating between 2V and 4V, and
what we want is to have it discharge from 4V to 2V in 100
milliseconds
and then charge from 2V to 4V in 900 milliseconds. To do that we'll
need to select something in the right ballpark to work with, and
since
T=RC and we're talking about almost zero load from the comparator
input, a microfarad and a megohm sound about right for a first cut.

Since, when the capacitor is charging, it'll be starting from 2V and
rising to 4V with a 6V supply, that's really only 2 volts out of a 4
volt spread, so if we write

V1
T kRC , where k = ln ----
V2

and V1 is the 4 volt spread and V2 is the two volt excursion we'll
be
making, then

4V
k = ln ---- = ln 2 = 0.693
2V

Then, since we know C is going to be 1ľF, we can rearrange to solve
for R:

T 0.9s
R = --- = -------------- = 1.298 megohms
Ck 1E-6F * 0.693

The closest standard 1% value is 1.3 megohms, so that should be
close
enough!


Now, for the discharge time, we have a diode in there so we have to
subtract about 0.7V from the 4V spread, leaving us with a 3.3V
spread
and a 2V excursion, so this time

3.3
k = ln ----- = ln 1.65 = 0.501
2.0

and

T 0.1s
R = --- = --------------- = 199.6 kohms
Ck 1e-6F * 0.501

The closest standard 1% value for that one is 200k, so that's also
pretty close.

So here's the final schematic:

+-----+------+--------------------------+------------+-----+
| | | |R7 | |
| | | [100K] |R3 |
| [634K] [316K] +-[634K]-+ | R2 [2.4K] |
| | | | | +-[100K]-+ | |
+|9V +------|-----+--|+\ | R1 | | [LED] |
[BAT] | | U1A | >--+-[100K]----+--|+\ | |K |
| | 1.2V-+--------|-/ U1B| >--+---+ |
| | | +--|-/ | [LOAD]
| [78.7K][LM385] | R4 | |
| | | +-----------+---[1.3M]---+ |
| | | | R5 | |
| | | +----+-[200k]--[IN4148>]-+ |
| | | | | CR1 |
| | | C1[1ľF][10M]R6 |
| | | | | |
+-----+------+--------------+----+-------------------------+

One final thing, R6 will increase the charge and discharge times by
about 10%, but for a low battery indicator I don't think that's
going
to cause any heartburn.

Good luck!

--
John Fields
 
What I would look at doing is figure out how the starting pulse is
generated, and putting a little less energy into it.
 
In article <2pq6heFno4f0U1@uni-berlin.de>,
dated Thu, 2 Sep 2004 21:25:33 -0600,
Travis Hayes, <tmh-SPAMISSPICEDHAM@nerdshack.com> says...


Any pointers?
It is not the 5 KV that killed the bulb.

It is the amps at 120 volts.

Lower the current or buy a bigger bulb.
 
"Travis Hayes" <tmh-SPAMISSPICEDHAM@nerdshack.com> wrote in message
news:2pq6heFno4f0U1@uni-berlin.de...

1) Gas discharge tube. Most that I've seen have a threshold in the
hundreds of volts, while I need it to clamp to 4kV.
2) Spark gap. Seems to be very un-deterministic, and variable with
time
and repeated use.
Both will clamp all the way down to perhaps 25-50 V given sufficient
current, which is not what *you* want, but what they were designed for.

MOV's - Siemens make them - can clamp; they can be had in many voltages and
sizes up to hundreds of kV.

BUT:

It may not be the starting voltage, that kills the bulb - more likely it is
the Running Current that is regulated specifically to allow the expensive
bulb to live, i.e. Too High for the El-Cheapo! (The starting voltage is
probably current-limited anyway somwhere in the mA's and unless it actually
flashes over and provide a carbonized track to short out the starter, I do
not think a 25% overvoltage in a few seconds is killing it - it is probably
even pulled down by the load).

3) Step-down transformer.
Sounds worse than the problem.

Any pointers?
Buy a new, proper, bulb and fit it!

Then Sell the projector and buy a new one that uses *cheaper* bulbs, having
learned now what to look out for when buying projectors!
 
Real problem here is the bulb specifically designed to operate properly with
the ballast assembly in this device is moderately expensive. That is the way
it is!!
As posted, look for another device that uses less expensive bulbs. Putting
the inferior quality lamps into the circuit eventually will produce damage
to the ballast and protection circuits of his projector. There are reasons
why specific parameters for lamps and ballast assemblies are qualified by
the designers.
Not to produce a lamp that is expensive but to insure that the design works
within the original parameters and complies with the UL limitations in
effect at time of manufacture.
Make sure to tell him the lamps do contain a bit of mercury, hopefully he is
disposing of the duds in a appropiate way??
"Frithiof Andreas Jensen" <frithiof.jensen@die_spammer_die.ericsson.com>
wrote in message news:ch9c5g$gq2$1@newstree.wise.edt.ericsson.se...
"Travis Hayes" <tmh-SPAMISSPICEDHAM@nerdshack.com> wrote in message
news:2pq6heFno4f0U1@uni-berlin.de...

1) Gas discharge tube. Most that I've seen have a threshold in the
hundreds of volts, while I need it to clamp to 4kV.
2) Spark gap. Seems to be very un-deterministic, and variable with
time
and repeated use.

Both will clamp all the way down to perhaps 25-50 V given sufficient
current, which is not what *you* want, but what they were designed for.

MOV's - Siemens make them - can clamp; they can be had in many voltages
and
sizes up to hundreds of kV.

BUT:

It may not be the starting voltage, that kills the bulb - more likely it
is
the Running Current that is regulated specifically to allow the expensive
bulb to live, i.e. Too High for the El-Cheapo! (The starting voltage is
probably current-limited anyway somwhere in the mA's and unless it
actually
flashes over and provide a carbonized track to short out the starter, I do
not think a 25% overvoltage in a few seconds is killing it - it is
probably
even pulled down by the load).

3) Step-down transformer.
Sounds worse than the problem.

Any pointers?

Buy a new, proper, bulb and fit it!

Then Sell the projector and buy a new one that uses *cheaper* bulbs,
having
learned now what to look out for when buying projectors!
 
On 3 Sep 2004 10:41:33 -0700, alex1138@charter.net (Alex Bryant)
wrote:

I have posted a schematic of this setup at:

https://home.comcast.net/~alex1138/

Please let me know if there is a better way to set this up...as I'm a
novice, any feedback would be appreciated!
---
1. Make sure the transistors can take 300mA of collector current
without coming out of saturation.

2. Connect one side of each the lamps to +6V.

3. Connect the other side of each lamp to the COLLECTOR of its
transistor.

4. Connect all of the transistor EMITTERS to -6V.

5. Replace the 10K resistors with 330 ohm resistors.

That should do it
--
John Fields
 
"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:98jgj0l52jma204nu2vbkj1pbdqi1f5mc6@4ax.com...
On Fri, 03 Sep 2004 00:34:17 GMT, "Joe"
nuisancewildlife@nospamearthlink.net> wrote:



Thank you John,

As I said previously, I have a lot of difficulty with ascii
schematics. I
copied the complete post and will have to go thru it slowly to try
and
understand it. Is there a site I can visit for a tutorial on ascii
schematics? I am seeing more and more of them lately. I just don't
understand what some of the symbols mean and how they are connected.

---
It's fairly easy, but different folks use slightly different
conventions sometimes, so it gets confusing. Basically, here's what
I
do:

|
|
Vertical wire: |
|
|


Horizontal wire: ---------------

| |
| |
Wires crossing but not connected: ---|--- or -------
| |
| |
|
|
Wires connected: ---+-+---
|
|


2-leaded components:

Basically, describe what it is with an alpha designation in
brackets,
put some wires on it, and connect it to something.

Horizontal R1
Resistor --[100K]-- or --[100K]-- or --[R1]-- or --[R]--


Vertical R1| | | |
Resistor [100K] or [100K] or [R1] or [R]
| | | |


Horizontal C1
Capacitor --[100ľF]-- or --[100ľF]-- or --[C1]-- or --[C]--


Show polarity where needed, like for electrolytic capacitors:

C1 + |+
--[100ľF]-- or [100ľF]
|

and diodes:

A = Anode
K = Cathode =
K |A
--[1N4000>]-- OR --[1N4000]-- OR [1N4000]
|



For transistors and FETs, label the terminals and put in aything
else
you need to :

| |
Q1 C D
---B NPN ---G
2N4401 E 2N7000 S
| |


For opamps and comparators:


---|+\
| >--
---|-/


For larger blocks, identify the part, label the connections and
enclose them in a box. I like to use +'s for the corners, other
folks
use dots or single quotes or commas. Add pin numbers if you like,
or
whatever will make your meaning clear


+---------+
----|TR- |
----|TH OUT|----
----|D |
+---------+
555


For switches:

____
---O O--- or ---> |
|
O



Then just hook it all up:



+12 +12 +12
| | |
[10K] [10K] 555 [1M]
| | +---------+ |
| <--+-[0.1ľF]-+----|TR- OUT|---|---->OUT
| | | |
O | DIS|---+
| | | |
GND | TH|---+
+---------+ |+
[1ľF]
|
GND

That's a 555 timer which puts out a pulse about 1 second long each
time you press the switch.


Also, there's a free ASCII schematic drawing program out there which
a
lot of people use to post stuff to the non-binary newsgroups. I
forget what its name is (Andy's something-or-other, I think) and the
link to it, but I'm sure somebody will post that info if you ask for
it or if they read this.
Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.25.250804 www.tech-chat.de

--
John Fields
 

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