Marriage is under fire!!

[Terry Pinnell]

altzone@gmail.com (David L. Jones) wrote:

If your software takes you more than
a few minutes to figure out how to wire up a NAND gate and turn on a
LED then uninstall it quick smart.

Hmm, maybe I can add that to my excuses for still not having mastered
PICs! I reckon it was several *hours* before I got my first flasing
LED...

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

[Fritz Oppliger]

my conclusion, my response. THanks

On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 23:38:10 GMT, Dana Raymond <what@ever.com> wrote:

What could the chip be doing differently when plugged into the target
board vs. the programmer?

possibility is that the part has been stressed with ESD or some
other operating condition. EPROM programmers do not run the part at full
speed so it may pass in the programmer and fail in the target. It sounds
like we're talking about a single EEPROM here - chuck it out!


EPROM.

clunk.



--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/

 

[AtPCLogic]

Subject: Re: PCB Layout software - what to use?
From: "Keith" user@host.com
Date: 9/16/04 1:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: <y692d.333$VyZ1.185@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com

"Keith" <user@host.com> wrote in message
news:UI81d.13168$vkm.12076@twister01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
Looking for suggestions on what to use for doing up some pcb layouts.
I am doing up some simple circuits for guitar effects and amplifiers. I
would like something that is not too complex.
Hoping for something that is free, but has support for printing. (going to
try the laser printer / photo paper trick)
I have tried ExpressPCB, and i liked it, but the copper trace printouts
have
dots all over them (am i doing something wrong?)
Suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
Keith
creekchubbAThotmailDOTcom (replace AT with @, DOT with .)


Thank you all for the replies
Still using ExpressPCB then a graphics program to clean up after. Wishing it
had more features, but it is the easiest one i've found, and also the
cheapest (free). I will want something more for future designs, so I will
try out more of the programs from the lists (thanks).
Tried out Eagle, still working through the tutorial. Seems a bit complex for
me right now (eg. I want to put a simple resistor here - I want the pads to
be spaced 500mil apart - I want the pad to have 40mil hole, 60mil
diameter --- i must be stupid? because i spent 10 minutes wading through ui
and didn't figure it out)
Anyways, it seems like i will be demoing a stack of software for the next
week or so! Back to work...
Keith
creekchubbAThotmailDOTcom (replace AT with @, DOT with .)

Free is nice, but isn't this a lot of work just to save a few bucks?
Brad
PC Logic

Schematic entry and PCB design software
http://www.pclogic.biz
http://members.aol.com/atpclogic/index.html

 

[Bob Myers]

"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:2v7mk055cv7jk2tth7n2vr7pdvu2sglgop@4ax.com...

I want the best signal possible and was wondering how
long to make the antenna if the present one doesn't work. Right now,
in open air, a good signal is present at 100 feet. But I don't know
how well it will work when lowered down the iron pipe.

If you're going to be lowering the thing down
an iron pipe, I would think you would do FAR
better simply running the signal over a cable than
you ever will with a wireless link.

Bob M.

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 19:02:38 GMT, "Bob Myers"
<nospamplease@address.invalid> wrote:

"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:2v7mk055cv7jk2tth7n2vr7pdvu2sglgop@4ax.com...
I want the best signal possible and was wondering how
long to make the antenna if the present one doesn't work. Right now,
in open air, a good signal is present at 100 feet. But I don't know
how well it will work when lowered down the iron pipe.

If you're going to be lowering the thing down
an iron pipe, I would think you would do FAR
better simply running the signal over a cable than
you ever will with a wireless link.

Bob M.

That's what I'm afraid of. But it's much easier to keep the camera dry

and to maneuver it around if it's only connected by a rope. So I'm
gonna try it first.
ERS

 

[Bob Myers]

"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:fcgmk09sfjkahll408gqg7e5f5h7ggmq50@4ax.com...

If you're going to be lowering the thing down
an iron pipe, I would think you would do FAR
better simply running the signal over a cable than
you ever will with a wireless link.

That's what I'm afraid of. But it's much easier to keep the camera dry
and to maneuver it around if it's only connected by a rope. So I'm
gonna try it first.

There's a problem with the "rope" being a coaxial
cable, or at least having a mini-coax wrapped around
it?

You're going to have REAL problems with an RF link
in this case, trust me...


Bob M.

 

[Si Ballenger]

On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 10:43:06 -0700, Eric R Snow
<etpm@whidbey.com> wrote:

Greetings Folks,
I have a video camera/transmitter unit that transmits in the 900 MHz
to 1200 MHz range according to the spec sheet. It currently has a
wire for the antenna that's 3.5 inches long. For optimum transmitting
doesn't the antenna length need to be a length that divides evenly
into wavelength? I will be enclosing the camera in a small plastic
waterproof enclosure with batteries and a light. Then it will be
lowered 70 feet down a 6 inch diameter iron pipe. It will be used to
inspect the well casing and pump as well as to watch the water as it
is being pumped. I want the best signal possible and was wondering how
long to make the antenna if the present one doesn't work. Right now,
in open air, a good signal is present at 100 feet. But I don't know
how well it will work when lowered down the iron pipe.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow

You need to run your video and power over a cable (easy to do
using 4 conductor telephone wire). The below cams would be easy
and cheap to use with a little tweeking/modding.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91309
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47546

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 23:12:00 GMT, "Bob Myers"
<nospamplease@address.invalid> wrote:

"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:fcgmk09sfjkahll408gqg7e5f5h7ggmq50@4ax.com...
If you're going to be lowering the thing down
an iron pipe, I would think you would do FAR
better simply running the signal over a cable than
you ever will with a wireless link.

That's what I'm afraid of. But it's much easier to keep the camera dry
and to maneuver it around if it's only connected by a rope. So I'm
gonna try it first.

There's a problem with the "rope" being a coaxial
cable, or at least having a mini-coax wrapped around
it?

You're going to have REAL problems with an RF link
in this case, trust me...


Bob M.

Yeah Bob, I tried the cable as rope thing and the cable wrapped around

the rope and had problems with manipulation and strength problems. I
guess I'll lower tthe camera down and if there are problems then go to
the extra trouble to make a case with sealed leads coming through. .
ERS

 

[Robert Monsen]

Captain wrote:

"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:2v7mk055cv7jk2tth7n2vr7pdvu2sglgop@4ax.com...

Greetings Folks,
I have a video camera/transmitter unit that transmits in the 900 MHz
to 1200 MHz range according to the spec sheet. It currently has a
wire for the antenna that's 3.5 inches long. For optimum transmitting
doesn't the antenna length need to be a length that divides evenly
into wavelength? I will be enclosing the camera in a small plastic
waterproof enclosure with batteries and a light. Then it will be
lowered 70 feet down a 6 inch diameter iron pipe. It will be used to
inspect the well casing and pump as well as to watch the water as it
is being pumped. I want the best signal possible and was wondering how
long to make the antenna if the present one doesn't work. Right now,
in open air, a good signal is present at 100 feet. But I don't know
how well it will work when lowered down the iron pipe.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow


1/4 wavelength is the best length. L=C/F (C=3E8) For 900 MHz this is 333
cm. Cut the antenna a bit longer and trim until you get best signal
^^ ?

No, 3e8/9e8 = 1/3m. Thats the wavelength in meters.

1/4 of that is 8.33cm, or 3.28 in. Your antenna is already close to 1/4
of a wavelength.

strength. If it will fit, silver plated narrow gauge welding rod works
well.

Actually, with the transmitter down a metal pipe you could get a wave guide
effect, in which case the signal will boom out.

Cap

Regards,
Bob Monsen

 

[Si Ballenger]

On 18 Sep 2004 04:55:52 -0700, nina.p20@gmail.com (Nina) wrote:

I would like to build a broad band frequency jammer for the FM
broadcast band. I have neighbors that like to play that damn music too
loud all day long. I figure if they turn it load and their station
goes off the air for a while they might get the message. ;-) :-D
If they keep the volume at a respectful level they will be allowed to
listen to their music as they wish as long as I don't have to listen
to it at uncomfortable levels.
I know this is entirely illegal and don't care about it. This is war
(!!!)and I plan on winning.
If you have plans for something that would help me achieve my goal I
would like to hear of it. My electronics skills are advanced (I've
used to build and design "bugs" for many years, I own a good equipped
lab, enough that I could build a project.
I have some experience with rf broadcast circuits.
The proximity of the offending radio's location to my house is quite
near so I don't believe a transmitter with an overly large
power...something between 3-5W
will be enough...LOL....
I'm "jamming" this neighbour with a 5W transmitter, but have to change
the frequency MANUALLY as soon as he changes the station, so I cannot
figure out how to do it automatically...
I'll be VERY THANKFUL for your help and ideas

Instead of a "silent" jam, get a radio on the same frequency next
to your transmitter and transmitt a feedback squeel. This would
get some attention if they have volume turned up.

 

[Paul Burridge]

On 18 Sep 2004 04:55:52 -0700, nina.p20@gmail.com (Nina) wrote:

I would like to build a broad band frequency jammer for the FM
broadcast band. I have neighbors that like to play that damn music too
loud all day long. I figure if they turn it load and their station
goes off the air for a while they might get the message. ;-) :-D
If they keep the volume at a respectful level they will be allowed to
listen to their music as they wish as long as I don't have to listen
to it at uncomfortable levels.
I know this is entirely illegal and don't care about it. This is war
(!!!)and I plan on winning.
If you have plans for something that would help me achieve my goal I
would like to hear of it. My electronics skills are advanced (I've
used to build and design "bugs" for many years, I own a good equipped
lab, enough that I could build a project.
I have some experience with rf broadcast circuits.

Sounds like you don't need any help, then.
Use one of your old FM bugs and adapt to sweep the band with a
sawtooth generator varying the reverse bias on a suitably chosen
varactor diode as part of the frequency determining section. Then
hitch the output of your bug to a couple of additional broad(ish) band
RF amplification stages which you will no doubt have no problem
designing. Presumably you know all this, anyway.

The proximity of the offending radio's location to my house is quite
near so I don't believe a transmitter with an overly large
power...something between 3-5W
will be enough...LOL....
I'm "jamming" this neighbour with a 5W transmitter, but have to change
the frequency MANUALLY as soon as he changes the station, so I cannot
figure out how to do it automatically...

So you want to wipe out the whole of the band to save you the bother
of retuning? I don't think you've thought this through very well. What
about everyone else in the neighbourhood who presumably don't annoy
others with too much volume? They're going to get wiped out, too. 3-5W
can cause quite a bit of widespread local disruption unless you're in
a strong signal area.
--

"What is now proved was once only imagin'd." - William Blake, 1793.

 

[John Fields]

On 18 Sep 2004 04:55:52 -0700, nina.p20@gmail.com (Nina) wrote:

I'm "jamming" this neighbour with a 5W transmitter, but have to change
the frequency MANUALLY as soon as he changes the station, so I cannot
figure out how to do it automatically...

---
Track the L.O.

--
John Fields

 

[mike]

Nina wrote:

I would like to build a broad band frequency jammer for the FM
broadcast band.
snip

I know this is entirely illegal and don't care about it. This is war
(!!!)and I plan on winning.

You really haven't thought this through have you.
Your neighbor isn't doing anything illegal.
Your plan IS illegal.
You can EASILY be located by the authorities.
STIFF fines are involved.
If you're in the US, all they gotta do is call the FCC
and you're toast.
If you're gonna wage war, you should have a winning strategy.
Your current one ain't!
mike




--
Return address is VALID.
Wanted, 12.1" LCD for Gateway Solo 5300. Samsung LT121SU-121
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
Compaq Aero floppy,ram,battery.
MINT HP-41CV, 2-METER AMPS, 200CH SCANNER
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/

 

[Gregg]

Just use a Ramsay kit, wipe out whole goddam FM band in one go!

--
Gregg t3h g33k
"Ratings are for transistors....tubes have guidelines"
http://geek.scorpiorising.ca

 

[Me]

On 18 Sep 2004 07:41:24 -0700, nina.p20@gmail.com (Nina) wrote:

I'd like to clarify something that I've missed:
I'm ready to pay for your help if needed.
TIA
Nina
nina.p20@gmail.com

I see no reason to try and jam the entire band. Just put together a
simple FM transmitter and as someone earlier suggested, transmit a
squeal or something equally irritating over whatever station they're
listening to. As M->P suggested, that will be far easier to accomplish
technically. If you need schematics for a simple FM transmitter that's
very easy to build, yet very effective I can help you there. I've
built and used several on this design. In fact, there's a drag strip
in GA using a transmitter I built off of this schematic using it to
transmit race stats so people can listen in their cars and with head
sets so they can hear over the loud car exhaust. Also got the board
foil design and component layout making it super simple to build if
you want to go the professional route.

 

[Eric R Snow]

On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 04:16:02 GMT, Robert Monsen
<rcsurname@comcast.net> wrote:

Captain wrote:
"Eric R Snow" <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news:2v7mk055cv7jk2tth7n2vr7pdvu2sglgop@4ax.com...

Greetings Folks,
I have a video camera/transmitter unit that transmits in the 900 MHz
to 1200 MHz range according to the spec sheet. It currently has a
wire for the antenna that's 3.5 inches long. For optimum transmitting
doesn't the antenna length need to be a length that divides evenly
into wavelength? I will be enclosing the camera in a small plastic
waterproof enclosure with batteries and a light. Then it will be
lowered 70 feet down a 6 inch diameter iron pipe. It will be used to
inspect the well casing and pump as well as to watch the water as it
is being pumped. I want the best signal possible and was wondering how
long to make the antenna if the present one doesn't work. Right now,
in open air, a good signal is present at 100 feet. But I don't know
how well it will work when lowered down the iron pipe.
Thank You,
Eric R Snow


1/4 wavelength is the best length. L=C/F (C=3E8) For 900 MHz this is 333
cm. Cut the antenna a bit longer and trim until you get best signal
^^ ?

No, 3e8/9e8 = 1/3m. Thats the wavelength in meters.

1/4 of that is 8.33cm, or 3.28 in. Your antenna is already close to 1/4
of a wavelength.

strength. If it will fit, silver plated narrow gauge welding rod works
well.

Actually, with the transmitter down a metal pipe you could get a wave guide
effect, in which case the signal will boom out.

Cap



Regards,
Bob Monsen
Greetyings Bob,

It's interesting that the calculations comes so close to the length.
Since the thing transmits anywhere in the 900 to 1200 range the
antenna being 3.5 inches long would seem to be covering that range.
If the antenna needs to be extended and a shielded wire is used until
the last 3.5 inches of wire will the effect be the same as the antenna
being connected directly to the circuit board as it is now?
Thanks,
eric

 

[Roger Johansson]

nina.p20@gmail.com (Nina) wrote:

I'd like to clarify something that I've missed:
I'm ready to pay for your help if needed.

You will only get yourself in more trouble by jamming their radio.
They can come over and beat you up if/when they find out who is jamming.
You can go to jail or pay heavy fines when the authorities discover you,
and they often need only a few seconds to pinpoint the source of an
offending radio transmission.

A much better alternative is to increase the sound isolation between you
and the neighbor.

Use some wooden planks to build a frame which covers the wall(s) to keep
the construction steady. Put sound isolating material in the frame, use
heave cloth type of materials, like heavy old type mattrasses (not foam
plastic), different types of mats, wool blankets, etc.

Fiber board is also good, combined with thick layers of heavy textiles on
both sides.
Put heavy mats on your floor if the sound comes from there.
Build an inner ceiling if the sound comes from up above.

After soundproofing your apartment, or parts of it, you can use your own
sound source to create a low volume but masking effect which means you
hear a lot less from your neighbors because you have your own favorite
music running day and night.


Another alternative is to talk to them and tell them to stop disturbing
you. That will work if they are actually trying to make you do that.
There are lots of religious people who are actively trying to make their
neighbors strong minded so they can come to God or something like that.

A problem with that approach is that they will probably only be
encouraged by that and start other manipulations to force you to become
even stronger. So you will end up with your brain filled up by the holy
wrath, or the holy spirit, just like their brains.


--
Roger J.

 

[Dr. Anton T. Squeegee]

In article <992361df.0409180641.65758764@posting.google.com>, nina.p20
@gmail.com says...

I'd like to clarify something that I've missed:
I'm ready to pay for your help if needed.

I can't speak for others, but no amount of money would convince me
to sell out my own ethics so easily.

I suggest you involve your local police. There are likely noise
ordinances in your area which your noisy neighbor may be in violation
of.


--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

 

[Lady Chatterly]

In article <9gbok05kvc29huvp0dka4hugrtsbg1is54@4ax.com>,
Paul Burridge <pb@notthisbit.osiris1.co.uk> wrote:

Sounds like you don't need any help, then.
Use one of your old FM bugs and adapt to sweep the band with a
sawtooth generator varying the reverse bias on a suitably chosen
varactor diode as part of the frequency determining section. Then
hitch the output of your bug to a couple of additional broad(ish) band
RF amplification stages which you will no doubt have no problem
designing. Presumably you know all this, anyway.

There is no more valour in you than in a wild duck.

 

[Meat-->Plow]

On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 10:57:11 -0400, Me
<no-address_for_spammers@no-address.com>,wrote:

On 18 Sep 2004 07:41:24 -0700, nina.p20@gmail.com (Nina) wrote:

I'd like to clarify something that I've missed:
I'm ready to pay for your help if needed.
TIA
Nina
nina.p20@gmail.com

I see no reason to try and jam the entire band. Just put together a
simple FM transmitter and as someone earlier suggested, transmit a
squeal or something equally irritating over whatever station they're
listening to. As M->P suggested, that will be far easier to accomplish
technically. If you need schematics for a simple FM transmitter that's
very easy to build, yet very effective I can help you there. I've
built and used several on this design. In fact, there's a drag strip
in GA using a transmitter I built off of this schematic using it to
transmit race stats so people can listen in their cars and with head
sets so they can hear over the loud car exhaust. Also got the board
foil design and component layout making it super simple to build if
you want to go the professional route.

I thought the person already had a transmitter