magnetic field

[John]

In message <1165179939.835002.95800@80g2000cwy.googlegroups.com>, webpa
<webpa@aol.com> writes

John wrote:
I have a Panasonic DMR-ES15EB recorder and have not been able to 'time
record' satellite programmes using the procedure in the instruction
booklet. I can record manually. Has anyone else had this problem,
please?
Any help would be appreciated.
--
John

I had a similar problem with my LiteOn DVR-5005. Turned out to be
operator stupidity: I'd set the clock, but not the DATE. Check yours.

Clock and date are working and I have no trouble timer-recording

terrestrial TV. I suspect that the problem has something to do with the
Video Plus+
programming procedure so I'll have another look at that.
--
Thanks,
John.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"Hake" <colinj.wood@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FXCdh.2115$Qa6.1352@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...

I use a lead acid battery to power my bicycle lights. It is 6v & needs
replacing (it is only working for 45 mins now instead of hours).

I have been pondering using a 6v Dynamo to put charge back in whilst I am
cycling.

You'll notice the drag.

IME you are better off with dry cells and a dirty DC recharger. You can
carry a couple of spare sets with little weight penalty.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<timinohio@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165429325.322963.66490@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

My wife brought home a flat iron, used for straightening hair, from a
woman she works with. It would turn on, but not get hot. I opened it
up and discovered that a resistor (one lead blown off the board) and a
triac (case had a chunk missing) had failed.
Questions:
What would have had to happen to cause this?
What likely failed first? Did the resistor fail, causing the triac to
fail, or vice versa?

Vice versa.

The resistor is tiny, about 6mm x 3mm, and the 5 color bands are very
hard to read. My DMM reads 1.2 Mohm. Is the reading from a failed
resistor accurate enough to get a replacement? If you had a resistor
that you couldn't read the color bands on, how would you replace it?

I would guess. It's not hard to experiment on.

 

[Don Bowey]

On 12/6/06 10:59 AM, in article ld4en2plh6cj0bgj1uv635p7vu4ge6rdo2@4ax.com,
"Charles Jean" <alchemcj@earthlink.net> wrote:

Is there a way to play a wav file over an open telephone line? Can
the earphone output of a sound card be used? Would it need to be
amplified or attenuated? Capacitance coupled?

You should post this at s.e.b.

It's fairly simple to do, and the sound card probably has high enough output
for the job.

 

Homer J Simpson wrote:

timinohio@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165429325.322963.66490@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

My wife brought home a flat iron, used for straightening hair, from a
woman she works with. It would turn on, but not get hot. I opened it
up and discovered that a resistor (one lead blown off the board) and a
triac (case had a chunk missing) had failed.
Questions:
What would have had to happen to cause this?
What likely failed first? Did the resistor fail, causing the triac to
fail, or vice versa?

Vice versa.

The resistor is tiny, about 6mm x 3mm, and the 5 color bands are very
hard to read. My DMM reads 1.2 Mohm. Is the reading from a failed
resistor accurate enough to get a replacement? If you had a resistor
that you couldn't read the color bands on, how would you replace it?

I would guess. It's not hard to experiment on.

Thanks, Homer. How would I know if I have it right, other than the
thing doesn't pop when I plug it in? What are the dangers of
installing a resistor that is too big or too small?

 

[default]

On Wed, 06 Dec 2006 17:18:29 GMT, "Hake" <colinj.wood@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

Hi All,

I use a lead acid battery to power my bicycle lights. It is 6v & needs
replacing (it is only working for 45 mins now instead of hours).

I have been pondering using a 6v Dynamo to put charge back in whilst I am
cycling. Now would be a good time to test this as the battery is at the end
of it's life span & dos not matter if I kill it completly.

My questions are;

I am guessing as a dynamo is basically, a motor, I will need something to
stop electricity flowing back & powering the dynamo as a motor. I think for
this I need a Diode - is this correct, and if so, what type of Diode do I
need to ask for?

If I wire the dynamo to the battery in parrallel with the lights, If I have
the dynamo charging whilst the lights are switched on, what happens? I am
guessing this should not blow the bulbs in the same way an alternator is
charging a caar battery all the time (unless some sort of regulator is
involvd?)(6v rated) - is this correct?

ANy thoughts? Or is this a daft idea?

It is doable within limits. Find out what voltage your dynamo
generates under load and no load - presumably you'd do some peddling
during the day and that could be used to recharge the battery.

Good solution if you are camping for months on end with your bike.

Dynamos output AC and the rectifier diodes you'd need to convert to DC
to charge the battery would prevent discharge. A switch or two on the
handlebar would give you some flexibility on whether to use battery or
dynamo - or you could just use a steering diode - dynamo voltage goes
lower than the battery and voltage flows from the battery to the lamp.

It can be made lots more complicated - but a switch(s) and diodes and
you're home free at little expense with good control of the system.

Now - while you're at it reduce the current demands of your lighting
system. Switch to leds if you can. I mounted 56 white LEDs under my
motorcycle headlight and it is more than enough at night for bicycle
speeds (50-75 feet) - uses a measly 3 watts and looks brighter than
the headlight in daytime - just doesn't have the same beam spread only
20 degrees. Headlight consumes 50 watts. Leds set me back $7 and the
resistors and potting compound works out to about 9-10 total for the
lamp.

Consider Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable packs or Lithium also - may
be able to lower the weight some.

Finally if you haven't already bought a dynamo; consider an in-hub
one. The thingees that rub against the wheels add a lot more drag and
abrade the tires over time. The in-hub dynamos start producing
earlier and are current regulated to some extent (not good for battery
charging- but saves light bulbs on an all dynamo system) The friction
types will pop a bulb at over 15 mph.

In-hub dynamos cost, but are well worth it if you drive in the dark a
lot. Requires a new wheel or some new spokes and re stringing the
wheel. Since you would have some bucks invested in the front wheel
ditch the skewers and use rounded lock nuts so the wheel isn't stolen.

To get power from the dynamo to the battery the dynamo has to produce
enough voltage to overcome the diode drops point six volts or so plus
a few tenths of a volt over the resting battery voltage (6.3 volts for
lead acid - so figure 6.6 volts - more is better) which works out to
7.2 volts. - a 12 volt system will be more efficient at around (14.5
volts for charging)

I was writing to some guy in France awhile back who has an automatic
system for charging and lighting - he camps in the mountains and uses
the battery for lighting the way and reading at night.

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[Hake]

"Homer J Simpson" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:60Gdh.30228$hn.6336@edtnps82...

"Hake" <colinj.wood@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FXCdh.2115$Qa6.1352@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...

I use a lead acid battery to power my bicycle lights. It is 6v & needs
replacing (it is only working for 45 mins now instead of hours).

I have been pondering using a 6v Dynamo to put charge back in whilst I am
cycling.

You'll notice the drag.

IME you are better off with dry cells and a dirty DC recharger. You can
carry a couple of spare sets with little weight penalty.

Whilst I appreciate your name Homer, I dont belive the drag would be a
problem - if for no other reason than that the dynamo would not be able to
excert eenough pressure on the tyre before it skidded. I may be wrong, but i
do not think that even a direct short across the dynamo would cause this -
and I am just intereste din trickle charging.

Weight is not a problem. My interests lie in low cost & resiliant lighting
which can be charged from my own power.

H

 

[Hake]

It is doable within limits. Find out what voltage your dynamo
generates under load and no load - presumably you'd do some peddling
during the day and that could be used to recharge the battery.

Good solution if you are camping for months on end with your bike.

Dynamos output AC and the rectifier diodes you'd need to convert to DC
to charge the battery would prevent discharge. A switch or two on the
handlebar would give you some flexibility on whether to use battery or
dynamo - or you could just use a steering diode - dynamo voltage goes
lower than the battery and voltage flows from the battery to the lamp.

It can be made lots more complicated - but a switch(s) and diodes and
you're home free at little expense with good control of the system.

Now - while you're at it reduce the current demands of your lighting
system. Switch to leds if you can. I mounted 56 white LEDs under my
motorcycle headlight and it is more than enough at night for bicycle
speeds (50-75 feet) - uses a measly 3 watts and looks brighter than
the headlight in daytime - just doesn't have the same beam spread only
20 degrees. Headlight consumes 50 watts. Leds set me back $7 and the
resistors and potting compound works out to about 9-10 total for the
lamp.

Consider Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable packs or Lithium also - may
be able to lower the weight some.

Finally if you haven't already bought a dynamo; consider an in-hub
one. The thingees that rub against the wheels add a lot more drag and
abrade the tires over time. The in-hub dynamos start producing
earlier and are current regulated to some extent (not good for battery
charging- but saves light bulbs on an all dynamo system) The friction
types will pop a bulb at over 15 mph.

In-hub dynamos cost, but are well worth it if you drive in the dark a
lot. Requires a new wheel or some new spokes and re stringing the
wheel. Since you would have some bucks invested in the front wheel
ditch the skewers and use rounded lock nuts so the wheel isn't stolen.

To get power from the dynamo to the battery the dynamo has to produce
enough voltage to overcome the diode drops point six volts or so plus
a few tenths of a volt over the resting battery voltage (6.3 volts for
lead acid - so figure 6.6 volts - more is better) which works out to
7.2 volts. - a 12 volt system will be more efficient at around (14.5
volts for charging)

I was writing to some guy in France awhile back who has an automatic
system for charging and lighting - he camps in the mountains and uses
the battery for lighting the way and reading at night.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
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Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
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Thanks for all the Ideas, I shall spend some time trying find and price
components - I like the Idea of a LED system, but I am in the UK &
generally, we are ripped of for electronic components - but i shall
investigate!

Its interesting to hear of the guy in France - thats the sort of thing I had
in mind, I just have to get a bit of knoweledge to acheive it.

TO further the Idea, when I have nothing better to do I d like to buy a
excersise bike, connect it to a a alternator from a car & attempt to use my
excersising to cpower lighting and other things in the home - I know its a
bit crazy & doesnt really save much, but it just sounds fun!

If I take the bike thing any further, I will post how I get a long, I havent
got as much time as I would like though!


Thanks very much for the pointers,

cheers,

Hake

 

[CWatters]

"Louis" <PovTache@gaga.invalid> wrote in message
news:4576c9ae$0$4368$426a74cc@news.free.fr...

"Mike Harrison" <mike@whitewing.co.uk> a écrit
Look for a cheap usb <thing> that can be re-purposed.
If a USB keyboard will work alongside the laptop's one, this may be an
option -you will probably
find a small PCB inside a USB keyboard that can be extracted.

Very good idea. Why didnt I think about this before !
Even simpler: using one of the switches of a USB mouse (the
mouse and the keyboard wont be used for this application)

Ethernet or USB to I/O port...
http://www.elexol.com/IO_Modules/

 

[default]

On Thu, 07 Dec 2006 16:24:22 GMT, "Hake" <colinj.wood@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

It is doable within limits. Find out what voltage your dynamo
generates under load and no load - presumably you'd do some peddling
during the day and that could be used to recharge the battery.

Good solution if you are camping for months on end with your bike.

Dynamos output AC and the rectifier diodes you'd need to convert to DC
to charge the battery would prevent discharge. A switch or two on the
handlebar would give you some flexibility on whether to use battery or
dynamo - or you could just use a steering diode - dynamo voltage goes
lower than the battery and voltage flows from the battery to the lamp.

It can be made lots more complicated - but a switch(s) and diodes and
you're home free at little expense with good control of the system.

Now - while you're at it reduce the current demands of your lighting
system. Switch to leds if you can. I mounted 56 white LEDs under my
motorcycle headlight and it is more than enough at night for bicycle
speeds (50-75 feet) - uses a measly 3 watts and looks brighter than
the headlight in daytime - just doesn't have the same beam spread only
20 degrees. Headlight consumes 50 watts. Leds set me back $7 and the
resistors and potting compound works out to about 9-10 total for the
lamp.

Consider Nickel Metal Hydride rechargeable packs or Lithium also - may
be able to lower the weight some.

Finally if you haven't already bought a dynamo; consider an in-hub
one. The thingees that rub against the wheels add a lot more drag and
abrade the tires over time. The in-hub dynamos start producing
earlier and are current regulated to some extent (not good for battery
charging- but saves light bulbs on an all dynamo system) The friction
types will pop a bulb at over 15 mph.

In-hub dynamos cost, but are well worth it if you drive in the dark a
lot. Requires a new wheel or some new spokes and re stringing the
wheel. Since you would have some bucks invested in the front wheel
ditch the skewers and use rounded lock nuts so the wheel isn't stolen.

To get power from the dynamo to the battery the dynamo has to produce
enough voltage to overcome the diode drops point six volts or so plus
a few tenths of a volt over the resting battery voltage (6.3 volts for
lead acid - so figure 6.6 volts - more is better) which works out to
7.2 volts. - a 12 volt system will be more efficient at around (14.5
volts for charging)

I was writing to some guy in France awhile back who has an automatic
system for charging and lighting - he camps in the mountains and uses
the battery for lighting the way and reading at night.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet
News==----
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Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
=----

Thanks for all the Ideas, I shall spend some time trying find and price
components - I like the Idea of a LED system, but I am in the UK &
generally, we are ripped of for electronic components - but i shall
investigate!

I bought the LEDs on line from Hong Kong, the shipping was free
www.ledshoppe.com 100/$12 shipping is air mail and takes ~10 days
Prices shown in USD regardless of currency

A set of three 1 watt LEDs at $30 would give a little more light and
out to the sides, 120 degree beam spread - but this works for me I
just don't want the guys at intersections to pull out and test my
driving skills or brakes and the LEDs seem to be doing that.

Its interesting to hear of the guy in France - thats the sort of thing I had
in mind, I just have to get a bit of knoweledge to acheive it.

He was rectifying the AC from a hub dynamo and regulating it with
SCR's to charge the battery when there was excess power to be had.

I've used both hub dynamos and friction types. Hub has it all over
friction style for performance, and friction over hub for price.

Another guy is marketing a flashing LED bike light that works off a
frame mounted coil and a magnet affixed to the spokes - don't know if
that can do much more then keep one from getting run over in the dark.
Put a lot of very strong magnets on the spokes and it might equal a
dynamo for less money.

TO further the Idea, when I have nothing better to do I d like to buy a
excersise bike, connect it to a a alternator from a car & attempt to use my
excersising to cpower lighting and other things in the home - I know its a
bit crazy & doesnt really save much, but it just sounds fun!

What's crazy? - makes a lot of sense to power the TV while watching

it, lot healthier. There's satisfaction, knowledge, bragging rights,
in the project with exercise for a side effect - sound like reasons to
me.

If I take the bike thing any further, I will post how I get a long, I havent
got as much time as I would like though!


Thanks very much for the pointers,

Good luck
cheers,

Hake

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
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[psdayama]

Hake wrote:

My questions are;

I am guessing as a dynamo is basically, a motor, I will need something to
stop electricity flowing back & powering the dynamo as a motor. I think for
this I need a Diode - is this correct, and if so, what type of Diode do I
need to ask for?
It is true that dynamo on cycle is AC type. So use a bridge

rectifier not diode.
That will kill dynamos magnet in long run.

If I wire the dynamo to the battery in parrallel with the lights, If I have
the dynamo charging whilst the lights are switched on, what happens? I am
guessing this should not blow the bulbs in the same way an alternator is
charging a caar battery all the time (unless some sort of regulator is
involvd?)(6v rated) - is this correct?

ANy thoughts? Or is this a daft idea?
Hake
If U have lights on while charging then not much happens than U

will huffing and
puffing within a KM of cycling. If U switch off lights (in day time)
may be after 20-30kms
U will overcharge battery if U haven't put a current limiter after
bridge. By the way U havent
mentioned what battery AHs are. I think it is mostly 4.5 AH used in
most of bikes.
It has limit of 1.2Amps of charging so U have to put small resistor
like 0.5ohm in serries.
As somebody else has mentioned it is better to use LEDs as they dont
pop off with excess
voltage but for that condition U have to get speed like going downhill.
With battery bulb
doesnt popoff but if it is old battery then with overcharge its voltage
may go beyond
8Volts and kill both the bulb and battery.

I have seen that people using friction dynamo have to change tyres
frequently and hope
U better get those axle dynamo.
Best way would be to use small car alternator with some attchment to
enagage/disengage
it. Alternator has battery charging regulator. U will also need smaller
12V 4AH battery or get
a pack of LI-ion batteries which are better than lead acid type.

 

[psdayama]

timinohio@gmail.com wrote:

My wife brought home a flat iron, used for straightening hair, from a
woman she works with. It would turn on, but not get hot. I opened it
up and discovered that a resistor (one lead blown off the board) and a
triac (case had a chunk missing) had failed.
Questions:
What would have had to happen to cause this?
What likely failed first? Did the resistor fail, causing the triac to
fail, or vice versa?
The resistor is tiny, about 6mm x 3mm, and the 5 color bands are very
hard to read. My DMM reads 1.2 Mohm. Is the reading from a failed
resistor accurate enough to get a replacement? If you had a resistor
that you couldn't read the color bands on, how would you replace it?

Thanks in advance.

Tim

1. What is Ur system voltage and what wattage is mentioned on iron?
2. It seems that the triac is for heat regulation. In that case
there should be
2-3 resistors and few capacitors and ONE inductor which has same
shape as
resistor also a diac and regulating pot.
I think that what U are saying as resistor is an inductor and it
is burnt out so
showing 1.2 M ohm resistor.
In this case the triac has failed first and the inductor opened after
excessive current.
But for that there must be some fault in heater otherwise this won't
happen.
So it will be better to check if heater resistance is ok or not ( try
to apply low voltage
from variac and increase it to some level if heater is bad it will show
high current after
after some heating).
3. There may be no triac but just diode which is converting voltage.
In this case
snubber ckt has failed and thus diode failed and that inductor failed
subsequently.
Momentary overvoltage may have caused this problem.

4. There may be something else but we will know only when U give all
details.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<timinohio@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165491563.046975.189920@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I would guess. It's not hard to experiment on.

Thanks, Homer. How would I know if I have it right, other than the
thing doesn't pop when I plug it in? What are the dangers of
installing a resistor that is too big or too small?

You have to puzzle out the circuit. Why does it need a SCR? To control the
heat? Too high a value resistor and it won't get hot enough. You have to
decide what is the correct amount of heat.

 

[Frank S.]

I have a pcmcia serial card you can have for $10 plus shipping from
Raleigh NC
Frank

Louis wrote:

Hi,

I need to add a simple input to a laptop computer for a switch.
However this laptop has no parallel nor serial port.
It doesnt even have an external keyboard input.

I cant spend time designing some kind of sophisticated USB interface.
Any ideas on how to add an input simply and at no cost ?

Thanks in advance.

 

psdayama wrote:

Hi,
I am trying to measure phase angle difference between nearly
identical sinusoidal waveforms.
I am presently trying with comparators as zero crossing detectors. Then
run a counter with 2Mhz
clock with either rising or falling edge. However results are very poor
: accuracy of only 30minutes
and result (stability)varying from 30minutes at 20% nominal voltage to
- 10 minutes at 120% voltage.
Results are better for rising edge and poor for falling edge.
Comparators are LM339. Nominal
voltage is 1.42V rms or 2.048Volts peak.
Can anyone suggest a method to achieve atleast 5minutes of stability
for varying input volages?
Thanks in advance,
purushottam

If you feed your signal to a phase sensitive rectifier you get zero
volts out when the reference is at 90deg. If you use your micro to
generate the reference (square wave is fine) and feedback the psr
output (error voltage) back to the micros ADC you can lock the
reference to the signal. Repeat for the other signal. Since your micro
is now producing both reference waves it knows what the phase shift is.

 

[psdayama]

cbarn24050@aol.com wrote:

If you feed your signal to a phase sensitive rectifier you get zero
volts out when the reference is at 90deg. If you use your micro to
generate the reference (square wave is fine) and feedback the psr
output (error voltage) back to the micros ADC you can lock the
reference to the signal. Repeat for the other signal. Since your micro
is now producing both reference waves it knows what the phase shift is.

Main problem again is to get squared output for PSD(not my initials
! )-
Phase sensitive detector requires squarewave to switch the signal's + &
- ve
So same problem roundabout! I think that now only solution is to take
40K samples per cycle that is 2M samples/second. Then detect the
zeros of ADC and use it as zerocrossing signal. After that micro will
decide the difference and cycle time and give phase angle down to
0.5 minutes. Also then micro will find the peak amplitude of signal at
checking abt 90 degrees.

 

psdayama wrote:

cbarn24050@aol.com wrote:
If you feed your signal to a phase sensitive rectifier you get zero
volts out when the reference is at 90deg. If you use your micro to
generate the reference (square wave is fine) and feedback the psr
output (error voltage) back to the micros ADC you can lock the
reference to the signal. Repeat for the other signal. Since your micro
is now producing both reference waves it knows what the phase shift is.

Main problem again is to get squared output for PSD(not my initials
! )-
Phase sensitive detector requires squarewave to switch the signal's + &
- ve

Well thats easy as the micro is generating it.

 

[Jamie]

psdayama wrote:

cbarn24050@aol.com wrote:

If you feed your signal to a phase sensitive rectifier you get zero
volts out when the reference is at 90deg. If you use your micro to
generate the reference (square wave is fine) and feedback the psr
output (error voltage) back to the micros ADC you can lock the
reference to the signal. Repeat for the other signal. Since your micro
is now producing both reference waves it knows what the phase shift is.


Main problem again is to get squared output for PSD(not my initials
! )-
Phase sensitive detector requires squarewave to switch the signal's + &
- ve
So same problem roundabout! I think that now only solution is to take
40K samples per cycle that is 2M samples/second. Then detect the
zeros of ADC and use it as zerocrossing signal. After that micro will
decide the difference and cycle time and give phase angle down to
0.5 minutes. Also then micro will find the peak amplitude of signal at
checking abt 90 degrees.

if you're dealing with micros, have you thought about doing FFT to

measure the differences ? using the same Micro to compare both
ref and source would be perfect also, the variant levels of input
would not effect the results.
Just a thought. I did find at one time 8 bit Asm source code for doing
FFT in a micro..


--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

 

timinohio@gmail.com wrote:

My wife brought home a flat iron, used for straightening hair, from a
woman she works with. It would turn on, but not get hot. I opened it
up and discovered that a resistor (one lead blown off the board) and a
triac (case had a chunk missing) had failed.
Questions:
What would have had to happen to cause this?
What likely failed first? Did the resistor fail, causing the triac to
fail, or vice versa?
The resistor is tiny, about 6mm x 3mm, and the 5 color bands are very
hard to read. My DMM reads 1.2 Mohm. Is the reading from a failed
resistor accurate enough to get a replacement? If you had a resistor
that you couldn't read the color bands on, how would you replace it?

Thanks in advance.

Tim

Your triac has suffered a severe overload, probably a shorted heater
element, chuck it in the bin.

 

[psdayama]

Jamie wrote:

if you're dealing with micros, have you thought about doing FFT to
measure the differences ? using the same Micro to compare both
ref and source would be perfect also, the variant levels of input
would not effect the results.
Just a thought. I did find at one time 8 bit Asm source code for doing
FFT in a micro..
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5
Thanks Jamie. I have never done FFT. So please send me the link

for 8bit ASM code. I am just thinking to use parallel output ADC 12bit
with bipolar signal. This will anyway required for FFT.
Thanks in advance.
purushottam