magnetic field

If they're National, they're probably 2N numbers.


sreenath wrote:
Hi,
thanks for the tips. I tried using the color codes,and could not find
meaningful results.

There are three colors on the back of the transistor. Also, after I
don't have any way of knowing what the preceding type would be, like
2N, MPS, 2SC, etc.

I am really consufed. Don't know why a company like National
semiconductors does like this- not printing the full device type on the
transistor.
 
sreenath schrieb:
Hi,
thanks for the tips. I tried using the color codes,and could not find
meaningful results.

There are three colors on the back of the transistor. Also, after I
don't have any way of knowing what the preceding type would be, like
2N, MPS, 2SC, etc.

I am really consufed. Don't know why a company like National
semiconductors does like this- not printing the full device type on the
transistor.
There is a reason: if those transistors were produced with some special
specifications for one single customer. In common those transistors have
uncommon type numbers.

On the other hand, there may be a solution for your problem. When you
look into an old NS transistor data book, you won't find detailed data
for type numbers - you'll find them for processes! Of course there is a
table with some 'coarse' data for National's transistor types (like
2N2222),
but details can be found under "process 19". Perhaps the colour marking
corresponds to the number of the process.

HTH

Reinhard
 
On Fri, 4 Nov 2005 18:30:55 -0800, "Scott Kelley" <scottk@iccom.com>
wrote:

I need to get a digital scope. Since I will want to use it in the field
some, I'm thinking along the lines of a computer plugin type. Typical use
will be for audio range stuff and microcontroller signals.
Figure you'll want to see at least the fifth harmonic (unless square
waves that are indistinguishable from sine waves are OK), so take the
single shot (not repetitive) sample rate (say 40 Msps for a popular
model) and divide the Nyquist freq by five: 4 MHz. That's certainly OK
for audio and quite a bit more. Just know what it is you're getting.

Digital displays are fairly cheap and easy (as compared to the monster
CRTs and supporting electronics of a generation ago) so consider that on
a real portable scope you're paying for the sampling and the signal
processing, not so much the user interface -- and you'd pay just about
as much for an equivalent capability if the GUI was offloaded to a PC.

If you need to be "battery portable" the price goes up a bit but if you
can get along with a power cord, Tek and HP both have very capable
digital scopes in the $1200 - $2K range that are small enough to take
along with you. If you really need battery portable, add Fluke's
ScopeMeters to the mix along with the other two.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
I am seeking information on any community colleges
...that provide distance-learning
Steve O.

Vaguely similar question asked here:
http://slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=05/11/04/2316238&threshold=5#13955473
..
..
I've searched the Web extensively

Wondering if you stumbled onto this guy:
http://www.google.com/search?q=Distance-Learning+John-Bear
 
Definately stay away from the Tenma Brand supplied by MCM Electronis.
Totally useless unless you like the storage DMM features or work only with
audio signals, most of the time they do not sync even at vertical
frequencies and are useless at horiz frequencies, exp in HD monitors or RF
circuitry.
"Rich Webb" <bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote in message
news:rg8om15v0d045ia63qc83llvktsn9jren9@4ax.com...
On Fri, 4 Nov 2005 18:30:55 -0800, "Scott Kelley" <scottk@iccom.com
wrote:

I need to get a digital scope. Since I will want to use it in the field
some, I'm thinking along the lines of a computer plugin type. Typical use
will be for audio range stuff and microcontroller signals.

Figure you'll want to see at least the fifth harmonic (unless square
waves that are indistinguishable from sine waves are OK), so take the
single shot (not repetitive) sample rate (say 40 Msps for a popular
model) and divide the Nyquist freq by five: 4 MHz. That's certainly OK
for audio and quite a bit more. Just know what it is you're getting.

Digital displays are fairly cheap and easy (as compared to the monster
CRTs and supporting electronics of a generation ago) so consider that on
a real portable scope you're paying for the sampling and the signal
processing, not so much the user interface -- and you'd pay just about
as much for an equivalent capability if the GUI was offloaded to a PC.

If you need to be "battery portable" the price goes up a bit but if you
can get along with a power cord, Tek and HP both have very capable
digital scopes in the $1200 - $2K range that are small enough to take
along with you. If you really need battery portable, add Fluke's
ScopeMeters to the mix along with the other two.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
Paybacks are hell! Go get 'em "Jim"!!! hehehe!

On Fri, 24 Oct 2003 12:46:35 -0700, Jim Thompson
<invalid@invalid.invalid> scratched with their pencil:

laguirre@azleg.state.az.us
callen@azleg.state.az.us
manderso@azleg.state.az.us
marzberg@azleg.state.az.us
tbee@azleg.state.az.us
kbennett@azleg.state.az.us
lbinder@azleg.state.az.us
rblendu@azleg.state.az.us
bbrother@azleg.state.az.us
jbrown@azleg.state.az.us
rburns@azleg.state.az.us
rcannell@azleg.state.az.us
kcheuvro@azleg.state.az.us
jgarcia@azleg.state.az.us
ggifford@azleg.state.az.us
jharper@azleg.state.az.us
thellon@azleg.state.az.us
jjackson@azleg.state.az.us
mjarrett@azleg.state.az.us
bleff@azleg.state.az.us
dmartin@azleg.state.az.us
smead@azleg.state.az.us
rmiranda@azleg.state.az.us
hmitchel@azleg.state.az.us
prios@azleg.state.az.us
vsoltero@azleg.state.az.us
jtibshra@azleg.state.az.us
tverscho@azleg.state.az.us
jwaring@azleg.state.az.us
jweiers@azleg.state.az.us
aaguirre@azleg.state.az.us
jallen@azleg.state.az.us
malvarez@azleg.state.az.us
barnold@azleg.state.az.us
rbarnes@azleg.state.az.us
abiggs@azleg.state.az.us
tboone@azleg.state.az.us
dbradley@azleg.state.az.us
jburns@azleg.state.az.us
mbcahill@azleg.state.az.us
ebustama@azleg.state.az.us
ocajerob@azleg.state.az.us
tcarpent@azleg.state.az.us
jcarruth@azleg.state.az.us
cchase@azleg.state.az.us
kclark@azleg.state.az.us
tdowning@azleg.state.az.us
efarnswo@azleg.state.az.us
jflake@azleg.state.az.us
sgallard@azleg.state.az.us
rgraf@azleg.state.az.us
cdgray@azleg.state.az.us
lgray@azleg.state.az.us
dgullett@azleg.state.az.us
phanson@azleg.state.az.us
jhart@azleg.state.az.us
phershbe@azleg.state.az.us
chubbs@azleg.state.az.us
shuffman@azleg.state.az.us
jhuppent@azleg.state.az.us
jkjksnjr@azleg.state.az.us
cjayne@azleg.state.az.us
kjohnson@azleg.state.az.us
bkonopni@azleg.state.az.us
llandrum@azleg.state.az.us
slaughte@azleg.state.az.us
plopes@azleg.state.az.us
llopez@azleg.state.az.us
jloredo@azleg.state.az.us
lmason@azleg.state.az.us
mmcclure@azleg.state.az.us
ddavis@azleg.state.az.us
rmeza@azleg.state.az.us
bmiranda@azleg.state.az.us
jnelson@azleg.state.az.us
wnichols@azleg.state.az.us
tohaller@azleg.state.az.us
rpearce@azleg.state.az.us
gpierce@azleg.state.az.us
tprezels@azleg.state.az.us
dquellan@azleg.state.az.us
mreagan@azleg.state.az.us
brobson@azleg.state.az.us
crosati@azleg.state.az.us
wstraugh@azleg.state.az.us
bstump@azleg.state.az.us
mthompso@azleg.state.az.us
stully@azleg.state.az.us
bwagner@azleg.state.az.us
syarbrou@azleg.state.az.us

...Jim Thompson

------------------------------------------------
Autobot This Spammers!
<A HREF="mailto:postmaster@[127.0.0.1]"></A>
mailto:postmaster@127.0.0.1
(to reply to actual address, dispense the dots before
and after sirname.
 
I have been using a Fluke Scopemeter 97 for about 8yrs. They are
excellent but expensive. I think the newer models are even better. The
one I have has a link for the PC but I think it costs me extra.
 
There are some very nice devices like this on the market, however, the
speed of most of these limits their use to audio work for the most
part. I really wouldn't want to use any that I had access to for
digital work. Most of these are produced by small garage firms, and
usually advertise for sales in publications like 'Nuts &amp; Volts'. These
of of limited use, but in certain situation they are 'the handiman's
friend', just like Duct Tape.

A common feature on many of these is the ability to display in either
the time domain or the frequency domain (Fourier Transform). This is a
surprisingly useful feature in audio and analog communications work,
particularly when working in the field and you have to carry and entire
lab in your suitcase! :)

Sadly I don't own one, so when I travel to the field to do work for the
FAA or some other organization, the only off-the-shelf instrumentation
I carry with me is a Tek pocket oscilloscope (owned by my employer), a
laptop and prom burner (for implementing embedded code changes in the
field), an inexpensive Wavetek DMM, a small set of handtools, a small
soldering iron, and a few home made kludges that often prove useful in
my field of work.

You'd be amazed at how useful a simple 9-volt battery with clip on test
leads soldered to it can be for tracing and polarizing comm lines,
forcing logic states (with a current limiting resistor) and a myriad of
other uses.

Kindest regards, Harry C.

..
 
jay_beveridge@hotmail.com wrote:
I'd love any info on making a homemade device like the one here
http://www.hotmp3gear.com/powerrunner.htm

Power Runner Universal Battery pack
good idea

How about this...
10 NimH AAs to make a 12 volt pack
Cordless drills usually use sub-c cells, I'd go with those - or a ready
made 12v drill pack.


But how do I regulate the output voltage going to my different devices
which need different voltages?
voltage regulator.

I was thinking of hooking the pack up to a cigarrett lighter
cars run ITRO 14.4v with engine on. I forget what V NiCds need to
charge, but it might be higher than this.

and use a
multivoltage cigarette lighter adapter like the one found here
http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product=693573

Would this be inefficient?
yep

? Or is there a simpler way..like an inline
switch that changes the voltage?

When you have a 12 volt battery pack and power devices that run below 6
volts are you sacrificing efficiency?
yep.

There is a better way, which is to run your 6v devices off half of the
batteries, then off the other half. The (trivial) downside is you need
to charge them as 2 packs of 6v, ie your charger to battery connection
will have 3 wires not 2. This way you'll get twice as long run times on
6v loads, and ditto with &lt;6v.

If you just need 6v and 12v out, no regulator is then required. For 9v
run it off 12v via 3x diodes in series, for 5v off 6v via one diode.


NT
 
&lt;meow2222@care2.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1131710891.557739.159230@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
jay_beveridge@hotmail.com wrote:

cars run ITRO 14.4v with engine on. I forget what V NiCds need to
charge, but it might be higher than this.
They need a constant current source not a constant voltage. There might not
be enough headroom to make a decent constant current source if you only have
14.4V
 
Spehro Pefhany wrote:

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:21:42 +0200, the renowned "Ken O"
lerameur@ya.com&gt; wrote:

Hello,

Just like to know if it was possible to convert from 1 phase to three
phase AC ?
See I have a motor that will run on 3 phase, and at hone I have only 1
phase. I would like to build a unit that will take three 1 phase, retard
the third and last phase 120 degree so it can turn my engine. Any comment
will be greatly appreciate

thank you

Ken O

ig has already given you one answer. You might try a google search in
rec.crafts.metalworking-- this question often comes up for motors of a
few HP on "old iron" machines that people want to run in their
basement (or garage for those who must do without).

There are basically three approaches--

Rotary phase converter- an idler motor, often with some added
capacitors, that essentially operates powered off of one phase and
generates the other two. You get most of the available torque,
especially with the proper capacitors. A simple electrical circuit or
a small starting motor is used to get the idler spinning. Line
frequency only. This is a good approach if you don't mind lugging
around some scrap iron as you can often get the 3-phase idler motor
basically for free (it has to be rather larger in HP than the largest
motor you wish to run). I bought a 10HP/240V one for $150 delivered,
but that was for a brand new Baldor- a bit of a bargain because it was
nameplated at 50Hz.

Static phase converter- uses phase shifting (passive components) to
create the other phases. Gives only partial torque. Line frequency
only. Not really recommended.

VFD - the incoming single phase power is rectified and filtered, and
three-phase power is generated from the DC rail using three
half-bridges. You get to set the frequency over a range so you can
vary the speed of your motor, plus a nice digital display etc. It's a
bit harder on the motor insulation than just running it from the line,
but well-designed motors should be okay.



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
No. Almost all static converters are electronic 3 phase inverters. Output
quality (harmonics, frequency accuracy, etc.,) and reactive load (motor
start) capabilities vary with price.
--
JosephKK
 
Winfield Hill wrote:

Spehro Pefhany wrote...

Winfield Hill

Why is it harder on the motor insulation?

Inductance in the wiring to the motor allows spikes and
ringing at the motor itself:

http://www.iprocessmart.com/leeson/leeson_iris_article.htm

I'm puzzled, because in an H-bridge, or half-bridge, the
motor isn't released for uncontrolled ringing, because one
device or the other is on, or a clamp diode is on, limiting
any flyback voltage. The waveforms in the paper look like
a simple single FET with no clamping, which isn't what you
get with a VFD controller drive.


Correct mostly. All the good and better VFD's and phase converters produce
sine waves, including fractional horsepower to 250 horsepower.
--
JosephKK
 
Jon Elson wrote:

Winfield Hill wrote:

Spehro Pefhany wrote...


Winfield Hill


Why is it harder on the motor insulation?


Inductance in the wiring to the motor allows spikes and
ringing at the motor itself:

http://www.iprocessmart.com/leeson/leeson_iris_article.htm



I'm puzzled, because in an H-bridge, or half-bridge, the
motor isn't released for uncontrolled ringing, because one
device or the other is on, or a clamp diode is on, limiting
any flyback voltage. The waveforms in the paper look like
a simple single FET with no clamping, which isn't what you
get with a VFD controller drive.




Yes, but the ends of the motor winding are exposed to 400 V
square waves with rise times of around 100 ns! Because of
leakage inductance in the windings, the end few turns get most of
this voltage during the transition.

It seems that running dual-voltage (ie 240/480 V) motors with a 240 V
VFD gives adequate protection so problems with the motor windings
are very rare.

(The unusual case where the drive faults out under overcurrent can
cause some big surges as the transistors just all shut off. The "clamp
diodes" may not be very fast or effective compared to the transistor's
on state.

One other advantage, especially when running huge motors in the
residential environment, is slow starting. A VFD will ramp up the
speed of a motor, eliminating the blinking of lights when big motors
start across the line. I can see all the lights in my house blink when
the garage door opener, disposal, washing machine, etc. start on 120 V
single phase. There is NO blink when my milling machine (1 Hp)
or lathe (7.5 Hp) start up due to the VFD's smooth start action.

Both machines also have active braking, which stops the lathe in
under one second. With any other source of 3-phase, it takes almost
15 seconds to coast down. So, that is a safety bonus with the VFD.

Jon

I expect your VFD is producing sine wave (clean) outputs. please check it
and report back to us.
--
JosephKK
 
On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 21:50:27 GMT, the renowned JosephKK
&lt;joseph2k@lanset.com&gt; wrote:

No. Almost all static converters are electronic 3 phase inverters.
?? Those are usually called VFDs.

Output
quality (harmonics, frequency accuracy, etc.,) and reactive load (motor
start) capabilities vary with price.
Here is a familiar example of a static phase converter:

http://www.phase-a-matic.com/PDF/SPL-2005-C.pdf

Note that it only yields 0.5 to 0.67 of rated horsepower.

Here, from another company, is an explanation of what a static phase
converter is:

http://www.phaseconverter.com/what-is-static.html

And another one:

http://www.boost-energy.com/boost/phaseconverters_ap.asp



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
Don Lancaster wrote:

Spehro Pefhany wrote:
On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 16:21:42 +0200, the renowned "Ken O"
lerameur@ya.com&gt; wrote:


Hello,

Just like to know if it was possible to convert from 1 phase to three
phase AC ?
See I have a motor that will run on 3 phase, and at hone I have only 1
phase. I would like to build a unit that will take three 1 phase, retard
the third and last phase 120 degree so it can turn my engine. Any comment
will be greatly appreciate

thank you

Ken O


ig has already given you one answer. You might try a google search in
rec.crafts.metalworking-- this question often comes up for motors of a
few HP on "old iron" machines that people want to run in their
basement (or garage for those who must do without).

There are basically three approaches--

Rotary phase converter- an idler motor, often with some added
capacitors, that essentially operates powered off of one phase and
generates the other two. You get most of the available torque,
especially with the proper capacitors. A simple electrical circuit or
a small starting motor is used to get the idler spinning. Line
frequency only. This is a good approach if you don't mind lugging
around some scrap iron as you can often get the 3-phase idler motor
basically for free (it has to be rather larger in HP than the largest
motor you wish to run). I bought a 10HP/240V one for $150 delivered,
but that was for a brand new Baldor- a bit of a bargain because it was
nameplated at 50Hz.

Static phase converter- uses phase shifting (passive components) to
create the other phases. Gives only partial torque. Line frequency
only. Not really recommended.

VFD - the incoming single phase power is rectified and filtered, and
three-phase power is generated from the DC rail using three
half-bridges. You get to set the frequency over a range so you can
vary the speed of your motor, plus a nice digital display etc. It's a
bit harder on the motor insulation than just running it from the line,
but well-designed motors should be okay.



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany


The problem with VFD is that single phase high power to dc conversion is
much more expensive than three phase high power to dc conversion.

Filter capacitors have to be much larger with lower ESR.
And input power waveform spikes are obscene unless PFC treated.

Also, you will need three times the current on a single phase line.
Probably meaning a major capacity upgrade.



Inductor input on the filter does wonders for harmonics and helps PF, but
PFC switchers for 1 kW to 10 kW are better still. 10 HP at 240 single
phase is still less than 50 A, no worse than starting every element of an
electric stove and oven at the same time. Of course motor start surges are
an issue, but successful VFD vendors have taken this in to account.
--
JosephKK
 
awright wrote:

Lots of ideas here, but I think ken o's comment, "I also omitted that
I need 550 volts to tun this baby," slipped under everybody's radar.


That's a pretty big hooker unless he has 440 VAC service or a step-up
transformer capable of transforming the full power demanded by the
motor plus reserve. In fact, while I strongly disagree with the
comment by another poster that 3-phase conversion at home is not
practical, doing it for a 550 volt motor may well be. ken o will
either have to provide a single-phase transformer to transform his
input power to the converter up so the DC bus in his VFD is high
enough to provide 550 volts AC out, or he will have to provide a
3-phase transformer between the converter and the motor.

The former is reasonably practical, depending upon power requirements.
In fact, the manufacturer of the VFD I installed in my garage about
25 years ago mandated that the input be supplied via a 5 KW isolation
transformer. Such a transformer can as easily be a step-up
transformer as the unity-ratio transformer that I installed.

The latter is very risky and/or expensive for a several reasons. (1)
You need a 3-phase transformer. (2) You are subjecting the
transformer to the high rise-time switching transients that can lead
to insulation breakdown unless its insulation is specifically
designed to withstand them. (3) You CAN NOT use a transformer on the
output of a VFD that could possibly be set to lower frequency than the
transformer is designed for. The transformer would saturate, leading
to very large currents damaging either (or both) the VFD or the
transformer.

I have been using a solid-state VFD to drive my 3-phase geared-head
drilling machine, bench grinder, and Bridgeport milling machine with
complete satisfaction for more than two decades. Before I installed
the VFD, I changed the motor on my first milling machine (a Rockwell)
to single-phase. It worked fine, but changing the motor on the
Bridgeport was not an option, and the variable speed of the VFD is
extremely valuable, especially for drilling large holes with the
drilling machine. No more burned drills!

Ignoring the high voltage ken o requires, I strongly recommend
investing in a VFD instead of buying or building a rotary converter,
primarily to get the variable speed capability. I think that careful
shopping and not going for bells and whistles like an LCD readout or
programmability will get you a VFD good for up to about a 1 HP motor
for well below US$ 100.

The threat of a VFD to motors not designed for "Inverter Duty," is
from the fast transients from the IGBTs or MOSFETs. A couple of
things can happen. One is insulation punch-through. An equally
damaging, but less obvious phenomenon is capacitively-coupled current
spikes through the ball bearings leading to erosion of the balls and
races and ultimate failure. This is not an academic issue to me, as
the electronically controlled motor in my new, high-efficiency
clothes washing machine failed in less than a year. A post-mortem
clearly revealed severe bearing erosion. In replacing the motor, I
lifted the motor ground to interrupt the path for
capacitively-coupled transients to ground via the motor bearings. No
subsequent failures for 5 years. (I know that this is a serious
violation of safety codes, but the motor is fully enclosed and I hung
BIG warning sign on it explaining exactly what had been done. )

awright

In that case you had a crappy VFD + motor implementation. And the VFD in
the washer is a piece of crap. do not buy that brand for years and scream
at the manufacturer, the press , and all your friends, associates,
neighbors, and acquaintances. Selling short lived pieces of crap must be
punished.
--
JosephKK
 
CWatters wrote:
meow2222@care2.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1131710891.557739.159230@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
jay_beveridge@hotmail.com wrote:

cars run ITRO 14.4v with engine on. I forget what V NiCds need to
charge, but it might be higher than this.

They need a constant current source not a constant voltage. There might not
be enough headroom to make a decent constant current source if you only have
14.4V

Doesnt necessarily have to be constant, as long as its limited. Of
course they cant be charged from a V source like lead acids.

If the NiCds needed 13v minimum, one could probably work with that,
using eg a low dropout current limiting regulator. But I dont know what
V is needed.

There is one workaround if theres not enough headroom: charge the pack
as 2x 6v packs. This means breaking the connection halfway along the
battery chain - eg with a piece of card - and current limiting the
charge for each 6v section.


NT
 
&lt;meow2222@care2.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1131750479.692905.240910@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
There is one workaround if theres not enough headroom: charge the pack
as 2x 6v packs.
Yes that would be the best way to go. You can buy chargers for that really
cheap.
 
If you record audio from a TV &amp; look at the envelope of the
signal, you will see that the peak signal levels during the program
is the same as durin the commercials. But, during the commercials,
the signal is heavily compressed, to put more average audio power in.

So what I think may be happening here, is the TV audio is being
compressed ALL the time (makes no difference to the commercials, but
brings up quiet passages in the normal priogram material). this
enables the volume level setting to be backed off &amp; the
commercials no longer appear relatively loud.
I feel sorry for anyone who owns a TV though.
 
I notice that some universities put material on the web (sometimes at
least as comprehensive as the average text). That way, it can be
updated whenever the need arises. I was a secondhand book dealer for
many years &amp; you can tell that most books were very lightly read.
The vast majority of texts are completely unnecessary, &amp; the stuff
that changes from year to year could easily be coveredby a few web
references today.
As for 'timeless' stuff like calculus.. each year the books are
fatter, more colorful, and more dumbed down, on the average.
I'm not sure where the pressure for "me too" average texts comes from,
probably more ego than greed.
When it comes to a basic practical analog text, Horowitz &amp; Hill
"The Art of Electronics" will do me fine. I can fill the gaps from
the web, no problem.
 

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