magnetic field

[Jerry Avins]

Albert van der Horst wrote:

...

You can see it for yourself by putting a microphone on on oscilloscope
and excite a pitch fork ( or is that tuning fork?).

Tuning fork. A pitchfork is a trident with slender tines, a tool for
pitching hay. You can see one in Grant Wood's picture, "American Gothic"
at http://www.artic.edu/artaccess/AA_Modern/pages/MOD_5.shtml. Tuning
fork, pitch pipe: go figure. It's a crazy language!

...

Jerry
--
Engineering is the art of making what you want from things you can get.
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ

 

[Tod Adamson]

Try my website:

http://www.pitchanalyzer.com

___________________________________________________________

"Jerry Avins" <jya@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:1-OdnXSZf9RW0OvfRVn-qQ@rcn.net...

Albert van der Horst wrote:

...

You can see it for yourself by putting a microphone on on oscilloscope
and excite a pitch fork ( or is that tuning fork?).

Tuning fork. A pitchfork is a trident with slender tines, a tool for
pitching hay. You can see one in Grant Wood's picture, "American Gothic"
at http://www.artic.edu/artaccess/AA_Modern/pages/MOD_5.shtml. Tuning
fork, pitch pipe: go figure. It's a crazy language!

...

Jerry
--
Engineering is the art of making what you want from things you can get.
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ

 

[Jerry Avins]

Tod Adamson wrote:

Try my website:

http://www.pitchanalyzer.com

___________________________________________________________

A few ads, no substance. How is it enlightening?

Jerry
--
Engineering is the art of making what you want from things you can get.
ŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻŻ

 

[CBFalconer]

** topposting fixed **
Tod Adamson wrote:

"Jerry Avins" <jya@ieee.org> wrote in message
Albert van der Horst wrote:

...

You can see it for yourself by putting a microphone on on
oscilloscope and excite a pitch fork ( or is that tuning fork?).

Tuning fork. A pitchfork is a trident with slender tines, a tool
for pitching hay. You can see one in Grant Wood's picture,
"American Gothic" at
http://www.artic.edu/artaccess/AA_Modern/pages/MOD_5.shtml.
Tuning fork, pitch pipe: go figure. It's a crazy language!

Try my website:

http://www.pitchanalyzer.com

That must deal with the chemical composition of pitch

--
"If you want to post a followup via groups.google.com, don't use
the broken "Reply" link at the bottom of the article. Click on
"show options" at the top of the article, then click on the
"Reply" at the bottom of the article headers." - Keith Thompson

 

[Michael]

Larry Oravetz wrote:

easiest thing to do is go to any auto parts store and ask for one
"Tony Christian" <afh1@westnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:4275d6ee@quokka.wn.com.au...
Can some point me in direction for a wiring diagram to build an Electronic
Amp Meter to read up to 50 amps charge/discharge? This for automotive use
on
a 12V DC system.

Or does some know where one can buy one off the shelf?

Regards


Tony Christian

I couldn't agree more.
What's the big deal?? Back in aught-six any self-respecting teenage car owner
tacked one beneath the dash as soon as he held clear title. Ammeter and oil
pressure. You could buy the set pretty much anywhere.

 

[Mark Haase]

In article <1115085467.261266.303560@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
"js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com> wrote:

Hi,

I have a 5 year old, Gateway VX900 19" CRT monitor and I was told that
you should run your monitor at the maximum refresh rate, for that
resolution. Will this damage my monitor or make it age faster? What
about maximum brightness and contrast? Someone else told me that,
"Running it at a lower or higher refresh rate will hurt it",
"when they are too low (high frequency squeal)" and maximum brightness
and contrast, "Just burns out the phosphorus faster." I believe the
part about the phosphors, but, the frequency I'm not so sure of.
Because I currently have it at 1024x768, 81kHz/100Hz, with maximum
brightness and contrast, I usually have it at 1024x768, 38kHz/60Hz,
100% contrast and 50-75% brightness. I'm within the manufacturers
specifications, 31-95 kHz/50-160 Hz. It looks better, and is
faster/smoother, but, it looks a little blurry, but it's been getting
a little blurry at some screen resolutions and frequencies lately.

Thanks, for all your help.

I don't think scan rate will wear out the components any faster, and I
have a hard time believing that phosphorus "burns out" at all. I'm using
a 17" Sony Trinitron that my mom bought at least 8 years ago, if not
more. I've been using it ever since I left for college, which was 4
years ago, which means its been running at max for at least that long.

I have to admit that I generally don't turn up the brightness or
contrast too much, because I like the black on my screen to be true
black. Maybe that's why its lasted so long. But Sony also simply makes
great stuff.

--
|\/| /| |2 |<
mehaase(at)sas(dot)upenn(dot)edu

 

[CWatters]

"DCY" <DCYorke@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115133998.892742.270410@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I've got a spring-loaded switch, such that you press and release it and
the curcuit is closed and then opened again. What I'd like to do is
have it alternate between two circuits. In other words, the first time
you press it, circuit A is closed (and opened), the second time you
press it, circuit B is controlled, then it goes back to A, etc. Is
there some kind of simple circuitry I can buy at the electronics store
that will allow me to do this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.

What are you switching (eg how many Volts & Amps)?

Is there a power source available at the switch location?

Any size constraints?

 

[Fred Abse]

On Tue, 03 May 2005 17:46:37 -0400, Mark Haase wrote:

I
have a hard time believing that phosphorus "burns out" at all

Go take a look at a screen that's been displaying the same thing 24/7 for
a few years, such as an industrial machine, or medical equipment. The
image is "burned" into the screen as a darker "image", visible when the
monitor is off.

Vertical scan collapse, on a TV or computer monitor screen will burn it in
minutes. A stationary spot will do it in seconds. The old Schmitt system
back-projection TVs had circuitry to kill the EHT and bias the CRT hard
off in the event of a scan failure, since a stationary spot could melt the
glass.

BTW, it's "phosphor", not "phosphorus", so called because it is
phosphorescent. The element phosphorus does not need to be present. The
original CRT phosphor back around the turn of the 19th century was zinc
sulfide.

--
"Electricity is of two kinds, positive and negative. The difference
is, I presume, that one comes a little more expensive, but is more
durable; the other is a cheaper thing, but the moths get into it."
(Stephen Leacock)

 

[Zak]

Fred Abse wrote:

Vertical scan collapse, on a TV or computer monitor screen will burn it in
minutes. A stationary spot will do it in seconds. The old Schmitt system
back-projection TVs had circuitry to kill the EHT and bias the CRT hard
off in the event of a scan failure, since a stationary spot could melt the
glass.

Monitors have this as well.

I think that aging CRTs fail from cathode exhaustion mostly. Th emission
spot inreases in size, and the image gets fuzzy as a result.


Thomas

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Wed, 04 May 2005 13:51:39 +0100, Fred Abse
<excretatauris@cerebrumconfus.it> wrote:

On Tue, 03 May 2005 17:46:37 -0400, Mark Haase wrote:

I
have a hard time believing that phosphorus "burns out" at all

Go take a look at a screen that's been displaying the same thing 24/7 for
a few years, such as an industrial machine, or medical equipment. The
image is "burned" into the screen as a darker "image", visible when the
monitor is off.

As I recall, thought, monitors have a faster (I forget the exact term)
loss of brightness per line, so don't have such a tendency to burn in.
TV's will and have definitely had a tendency to do so.

Tom

Vertical scan collapse, on a TV or computer monitor screen will burn it in
minutes. A stationary spot will do it in seconds. The old Schmitt system
back-projection TVs had circuitry to kill the EHT and bias the CRT hard
off in the event of a scan failure, since a stationary spot could melt the
glass.

BTW, it's "phosphor", not "phosphorus", so called because it is
phosphorescent. The element phosphorus does not need to be present. The
original CRT phosphor back around the turn of the 19th century was zinc
sulfide.

 

[John Fields]

On 5 May 2005 17:33:01 -0700, Robijean@hotmail.com wrote:

I have a public amplifier with one input 1/4 female connector that I
want to condemn so that nobody will be able to connect a male connector
into it.
But the problem is that I can not take this female connector off the
amplifier.
Is there any secure/appropriate way to condemn the female connector?
I do not want to put some glue or silicon inside the hole...
Thanks for any suggestion.

---
Get a piece of 1/4" diameter brass or copper rod about 3/4" long and
turn or file one end of it down so it looks like the business end of
a 1/4" phone plug, then plug it in. No one will be able to plug into
the hole, and no one will be able to get it out without taking the
cover off of the amp. If you wanted to get slick, you could drill and
tap the other end and then, if you wanted to remove it without taking
off the cover, all you'd have to do would be to screw a proper screw
into the end of the rod and pull it out.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Tomi Holger Engdahl]

fleemo17@comcast.net writes:

I would like the ability to run both my DVD player and my iPod Photo
into my TV's one S Video input without having to do a bunch of plugging
and unplugging every time I want to use one or the other. Is there
some kind of S Video splitter box or some other means of accomplishing
this goal?

There are switch boxes available for all kind of video signals.
This includes S-video. I have seen such thing but I don't
remember exactly where.



--
Tomi Engdahl (http://www.iki.fi/then/)
Take a look at my electronics web links and documents at
http://www.epanorama.net/

 

[Art]

Check out newegg.com they seem to have a few unique items. or 'Google" for
one, sure you will have a few good hits to follow up on.
"Fla" <fla_groups@tiscali.it> wrote in message
news:1115372045.774101.168150@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I was looking for a PCI to ISA card in order to re-use an ISA card with
PCI connector of modern PC. I found costronic.com solutions.
Do you know further solutions?

Thanks in advance

 

[Spajky]

On 5 May 2005 16:20:45 -0700, fleemo17@comcast.net wrote:

I would like the ability to run both my DVD player and my iPod Photo
into my TV's one S Video input without having to do a bunch of plugging
and unplugging every time I want to use one or the other. Is there
some kind of S Video splitter box or some other means of accomplishing
this goal?

Wouldn´t simple 2-pos. switch in a small box do the job?
--
Regards , SPAJKY ÂŽ
mail addr. @ my site @ http://www.spajky.vze.com
3rd Ann.: - "Tualatin OC-ed / BX-Slot1 / inaudible setup!"

 

[Keith Williams]

In article <1115372045.774101.168150@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
fla_groups@tiscali.it says...

I was looking for a PCI to ISA card in order to re-use an ISA card with
PCI connector of modern PC. I found costronic.com solutions.
Do you know further solutions?

A search on "pci to isa" + card turns up a few hits. PLX has an RDK

for the 9050 PCI to ISA bridge, but I suspect it's pricey.

http://www-corot.obspm.fr/COROT-ETC/Files/rdkmanver1.2_
98doc.PDF#search='PCI%209050RDK'

--
Keith

 

[Michael]

John Fields wrote:

On 5 May 2005 17:33:01 -0700, Robijean@hotmail.com wrote:

I have a public amplifier with one input 1/4 female connector that I
want to condemn so that nobody will be able to connect a male connector
into it.
But the problem is that I can not take this female connector off the
amplifier.
Is there any secure/appropriate way to condemn the female connector?
I do not want to put some glue or silicon inside the hole...
Thanks for any suggestion.

---
Get a piece of 1/4" diameter brass or copper rod about 3/4" long and
turn or file one end of it down so it looks like the business end of
a 1/4" phone plug, then plug it in. No one will be able to plug into
the hole, and no one will be able to get it out without taking the
cover off of the amp. If you wanted to get slick, you could drill and
tap the other end and then, if you wanted to remove it without taking
off the cover, all you'd have to do would be to screw a proper screw
into the end of the rod and pull it out.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

I very much like John's idea. Except I would use a non-conductor instead of
e.g. brass or copper.

 

[John Fields]

On Fri, 06 May 2005 13:35:03 GMT, Michael <NoSpam@att.net> wrote:

John Fields wrote:

On 5 May 2005 17:33:01 -0700, Robijean@hotmail.com wrote:

I have a public amplifier with one input 1/4 female connector that I
want to condemn so that nobody will be able to connect a male connector
into it.
But the problem is that I can not take this female connector off the
amplifier.
Is there any secure/appropriate way to condemn the female connector?
I do not want to put some glue or silicon inside the hole...
Thanks for any suggestion.

---
Get a piece of 1/4" diameter brass or copper rod about 3/4" long and
turn or file one end of it down so it looks like the business end of
a 1/4" phone plug, then plug it in. No one will be able to plug into
the hole, and no one will be able to get it out without taking the
cover off of the amp. If you wanted to get slick, you could drill and
tap the other end and then, if you wanted to remove it without taking
off the cover, all you'd have to do would be to screw a proper screw
into the end of the rod and pull it out.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer


I very much like John's idea. Except I would use a non-conductor instead of
e.g. brass or copper.

---
The reason for it to be conductive is that you want to short out the
input in order to minimize hum pickup. Chances are, if you look at
the phone jack, it'll be the shorting type for just that reason. That
is, there's a contact on the phone jack which shorts its tip contact
to ground when nothing is plugged in, but then when you plug in a
phone plug, it lifts the contact off ground and connects it to the
phone plug tip contact. If you used an insulator for the dummy plug
it would lift the contact off ground, probably causing hum to occur.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

hhc314@yahoo.com wrote:

This may come as a shock to you, but realize that NRI devices are not
considered professional quality products. The fact that you described
it as such may actually detract from the bids that you receive.

A fair price for the signal generator that you are selling would be
(IMHO) around $15, but you may get lucky.

Good luck on your auction.

Harry C.

They were sold to "Professional" Radio or TV repairmen to compliment
NRI's electronic courses.
--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Bill]

"Spajky" <Spajky@##volja.net> wrote in message
news:3c6m719pb8klntkpdfn223gmt3v5974mkf@4ax.com...

On 5 May 2005 16:20:45 -0700, fleemo17@comcast.net wrote:

I would like the ability to run both my DVD player and my iPod Photo
into my TV's one S Video input without having to do a bunch of plugging
and unplugging every time I want to use one or the other. Is there
some kind of S Video splitter box or some other means of accomplishing
this goal?

Wouldn´t simple 2-pos. switch in a small box do the job?
--
Regards , SPAJKY Ž
mail addr. @ my site @ http://www.spajky.vze.com
3rd Ann.: - "Tualatin OC-ed / BX-Slot1 / inaudible setup!"

http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=3103&sku=40021&engine=adwords!654&keyword=%28s+video+switch%29

http://tinyurl.com/bsv37

I typed S video switch into Google and this was at the top of the page.

Bill

 

[CWatters]

<cheian07@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1115433585.317746.201120@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

hi, can anyone out there can give me ideas on how to use the output
jack of my multimeter. i have one on my meter but i dont know how to
use it. any help would be greatly appreciated.
thank you,

It would help if you told us the make and model of the meter? Some have
serial ports that can be connected to a PC for data logging but they tend to
be the more expensive models. What does the connector look like on this
output?