Mackie M1400 poweramp problem

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 05 Jun 2008 04:38:49 +0100, Eeyore wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for around
$300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

We've been using one for our 2x18 subs for several months with no problems.

One of my designs has been sitting in the local venue for over TEN YEARS. One
level pot went scratchy in that time and we also gave the heatsinks a
blow-through.


I pulled it apart to have a look and it's as well constructed as any other
amp besides the high dollar brands.

$300 doesn't buy you very much in the way of a power transformer or decent output
devices and heatsinking + fans.

I've heard of these amps in the UK. Not 'Warrior' brand is it ? They came with
ten year warranties but the company only lasted about 18 months. Killed by the
warranty claims.

It's a Wharfedale 1800 and the dealer price was around 450 not 300.
I know it's not good enough for you but I really don't give a shit.

I had a guy offer me a crown Micro Tech 1200 for $250 and turned him down.
It was pretty beat up looking, the rear rack ears were bent and who knows
what abuse it may had suffered. I'd rather add $200 and buy another Wharfe.

 

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[Michael A. Terrell]

Tzortzakakis Dimitrios wrote:

That's because you have no bloody wind-turbines on your grid. We have here,
and I had to include them in my thesis, and these things seriously harm the
voltage quality in interconnected grids. In stand-alone residence
installations, they work ok, probably with photovoltaics, but here they are
a disaster, in whole Crete all the lights flicker every evening when the
bloody wing stalls them and they convert momentarily from generating to
motors. I prefer old-fashioned fossil-fuel fired power plants, after all
smoking chimneys is a token of peace

You need to move your politicians closer to the turbines, to maintain
a higher efficiency. This detail os often overlooked in this type of
installation. ;-)


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Sporadic E is the Earth's aluminum foil beanie for the 'global warming'
sheep.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Just be happy that you aren't trapped in a Klein bottle!


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Sporadic E is the Earth's aluminum foil beanie for the 'global warming'
sheep.

 

[James Sweet]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Comments welcome!

Maybe wrapping your letter around a brick and tossing it through the
window of their headquarters would get someone to actually read it.

 

[Aftab Ahmad]

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[Don Bowey]

On 6/6/08 9:02 PM, in article 6w3anpyjsr.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu, "Sam
Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

(snip)

For me, I do eBay for fun. It's not like a day job so being kicked off
for a few days may be a good thing. Other than the time I've spent
trying to communicate with the droids and writing up the saga, it gives
me more time for other things. Perhaps they will have done me a favor
if I never get back on!

But I could just imagine if this happened to someone whose business
was selling on eBay.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

(snip)


The thing is, when a seller who does a lot of business for them, cheats a
buyer, the eBay droids are are present only so they can say they have a
resolution process. That the process follows the path of least
work/thought/fairness/intelligence for them is what's important.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

As a followup. My account was restored around noon today (June 7) with
the following statement:

"Thank you for taking the time to fax the information we requested.

I appreciate the information that you have sent, and I have reviewed the
details of this suspension. In light of additional information that has
been submitted and a new review, it has been decided to reinstate this
account."

No explanation and not even a form-letter apology.

Thanks for your support!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

I have been a member in good standing with eBay since 1999. As readers
of Sam's Laser FAQ are probably aware, I have acquired a large number of
lasers and related items on eBay, most at bargain basement prices. All in
all I have been very satisfied with the eBay experience. Until now.

For a blow-by-blow saga of what I'm experiencing now, please go to

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/ebayhorror1.htm

I will be updating this as it plays out. I expect the outcome to be
satisfactory, but the route it's taking is like one of those nightmares
where you're trapped on a 15 dimensional mobius strip.

Just be happy that you aren't trapped in a Klein bottle!

That would be more intersting though.

Especially if you can't find your asbestos long johns.


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http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm

Sporadic E is the Earth's aluminum foil beanie for the 'global warming'
sheep.

 

[Eeyore]

Tim Phipps wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for around
$300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.

Not at all but the quality varies dramatically. I'm expecting to be going to
Shanghai / Ningbo quite soon in fact.

You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts.

Only because our Indian sub-contractor had bankrupted the company. Those
transformers were custom made by Toroid International which is a highly respected
brand. I'm sorry you had that problem but it wasn't a design oversight for sure.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.
We all know that you get some crap made there but sometimes
some good stuff comes from there.

There is a difference between items made in China and designed in China. I
have plenty of Chinese-manufactured items that are of high quality. I have
many fewer that were _designed_ there. One is an iRiver H120 jukebox, which
is of very high quality.

The work I've seen come out of Kwan Asia is second to none. Orient Power /
Oritron is pretty good too.

As you imply, few Chinese know how to design well though, and if you get a good
relationship going they will freely admit this. I have met one good Chinese
designer though, a chap called 'Tim' Lau. He co-developed the QSC RMX series
with Pat Quilter AIUI.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

James Sweet wrote:

William Sommerwerck wrote:
Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.
We all know that you get some crap made there but sometimes
some good stuff comes from there.

There is a difference between items made in China and designed in China. I
have plenty of Chinese-manufactured items that are of high quality. I have
many fewer that were _designed_ there. One is an iRiver H120 jukebox, which
is of very high quality.

Isn't iRiver Korean? We did some work with their products a while back,
had a couple of their engineers over here, I'm pretty sure they weren't
Chinese but I could be wrong.

A lot of Korean compnaies are moving their manufacturing to China. I could talk
volumes about that and the troubles it caused.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

Meat Plow wrote:

Tim Phipps wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for around
$300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.


Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China. We all
know that you get some crap made there but sometimes some good stuff
comes from there. Most of my amps are British made (Matrix) but I have
a couple of Chinese made amps, one Audiohead and the other T.amp brand
from thomann.de which look like the same amp to me, both have been in
service on the road for about 3 years now without trouble.

You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts. That amp got replaced with another Chinese made T.amp from
Thomann which has also given me no problems.

Do you remember looking at the 4-63 volt, 3300uf caps in your 700D? I just
replaced the banana jack on mine and those 4 caps looked like the tops
were puffed. I pulled the top off one and there is a convexed steel cap

Aluminium actually.

over the actual can under the heat shrink that makes these look domed. And
they appear also to run pretty warm discoloring the white glue used to
bond them to the pcb. The amp works fine otherwise and I've never had any
problems with it. It was formerly used to power A/V sub-woofers and had
been left on continuously for a couple years. Next trip to the electronics
shop will probably yield a new set just for my piece of mind.

Given its age, I would recommend replacing them. NO amplifier PSU electrolytics
last for ever. Do buy a decent brand. We used Sanwha which are great for the
price but not widely available. A Panasonic is probably your best bet. Sub-woofers
will give them more of a hammering than full-range too.

Graham

 

[conundrum]

On May 14, 9:50 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"conundrum" <testin...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2ba943fd-c811-432b-94a0-f1721e93e737@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
| Hi all.
|
| I have two of these beasties, both JVC 42" plasmas made at about the
| same time.
|
| Unfortunately, one has a burned out PDP (has big black line on the
| screen about 1/3 the way across and halfway down the screen) and the
| other has an apparently fried controller board but the PDP looks
fine.
|
| I've got as far as determining that the base boards are not
| mechanically compatible but they do use the same PDP, with
essentially
| the same pinout and specifications.
|
| I can't seem to work out how to separate the PDP and uber-fragile
| flexi cables with embedded LSI HV chips from the base plate with its
| incorrect screw locations, undid about 24 screws and no go
|
| Has anyone even attempted such a mammoth task? It seems feasible
(the
| LCD I modded is easy by comparison)
|
| Thanks in advance.
| -A
|
| "Bother" said Pooh, as Darth Maul 'sabred him in twain...
"dBc" <not_necess...@thanks.com> wrote in message

news:uVvWj.102$oJ4.3499647@petpeeve.ziplink.net...



Conundrum..

Ouch! GOOD LUCK!

And just think, folks make fun, now days, of people with CRT based
sets. At least you've got a chance repairing them relative to what
you're contemplating going through!

I'll believe I'll stick to my free 25" stereo (CRT) TV set that was
given to me with a vertical oscillator/amplifier & a few electrolytics
that needed replacing.. While it certainly won't look as impressive as
a new plasma based set, it's certainly not as expensive and sure
significantly less work and cheaper to repair. In addition, probably
doesn't cause quite as much RFI as most plasma sets tend to do!

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor

Plasma and LCD sets only look impressive to your neighbours who haven't got
one, or if you see them in shops running on a Blu Ray HD DVD player.
Otherwise, compared to a good (or even mediocre) CRT set, the picture they
produce, is crap ...

Arfa

Done, and fixed. The panels are held on with lots and LOTS of thermal
strip, separating the panel is time consuming and nerve wracking but
possible (be careful of the pip though, $$$$$$$$. The replaced panel
worked fine once I had replaced the blown bus IC's on the XY scaler
boards (caused by the original bad panel blowing a driver chip) so its
worth checking these (they are the first things to blow when a driver
chip craters itself)

-A

 

[Baron]

Jim Adney wrote:

On Sat, 7 Jun 2008 09:45:05 -0700 (PDT) daviddschool
daviddschool@gmail.com> wrote:

I am looking for a non-soldering way of attaching flexible wire to a
LED leg - I know I could wrap it, but I think it time it might come
loose or the connection might not be the greatest - has anyone come
out with a product that will work so if I wanted to change the LED, it
would be easy to attach the new one without soldering it?

There are sockets for LEDs, but the company's name escapes me at the
moment.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

Amp ? Amphenol or Cinch maybe ?
--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[Eeyore]

Arfa Daily wrote:

"Eeyore" wrote
Tim Phipps wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
Meat Plow wrote:

Besides, I can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for
around $300 US.

I wouldn't expect it to work for very long.

Seems to me that you have a problem with anything made in China.

Not at all but the quality varies dramatically. I'm expecting to be going
to Shanghai / Ningbo quite soon in fact.

You might also remember some time ago when I posted for help with a dead
Studiomaster 700D. The fault turned out to be a bad power transformer
which was not economical to replace even by substitution with off the
shelf parts.

Only because our Indian sub-contractor had bankrupted the company. Those
transformers were custom made by Toroid International which is a highly
respected
brand. I'm sorry you had that problem but it wasn't a design oversight
for sure.

Ah ... Studiomaster. I will remember that Graham, when I next get one in
that's giving me some grief ...

d;~}

Stop for a second to think how many tens of thousands were made and how few you
see.

I just bought a 700D on ebay btw for a club install that's going 3 way active
(for the HF drivers). You can see I do have confidence in my own products.

And you can always email me for repair tips.

Graham

 

[Art]

"Baron" <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:g2gsca$hl1$1@registered.motzarella.org...

Jim Adney wrote:

On Sat, 7 Jun 2008 09:45:05 -0700 (PDT) daviddschool
daviddschool@gmail.com> wrote:

I am looking for a non-soldering way of attaching flexible wire to a
LED leg - I know I could wrap it, but I think it time it might come
loose or the connection might not be the greatest - has anyone come
out with a product that will work so if I wanted to change the LED, it
would be easy to attach the new one without soldering it?

There are sockets for LEDs, but the company's name escapes me at the
moment.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

Amp ? Amphenol or Cinch maybe ?
--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Simple wire wrap tool, easy, nice looking, removable with minimum effort, no
sockets needed, dress the wires any way you wish to locate the leds in any
pattern you care to use. Cheers

 

[Baron]

lurk wrote:

I dunno know about the fridge thing but seems my devices that run on
batteries the batteries don't hold up well in the cold
weather...always
carry cameras recorders in the jeep year round....just my thought

Well the idea was for long term storage of batteries ! As you have
discovered the chemical reactions that produce the electricity slow
right down in cold conditions. Hence storing them in the fridge.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[Splork]

Does anyone know what this would entail. Have wireless
microsoft that is unavailable in wired format. Would like to
make it wired. Have some ps2 and usb cables handy, anyone
experienced in these??

Thanks