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On Friday, July 3, 2020 at 7:14:22 AM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Just for the fun of it, I did test the 3 \'free\' Harbor Freight meters on
AC and DC yeaterday. From 0 to 25 VDC the HF meters were within about
.5 % of the Fluke meter. On AC up to 130 VAC they were around 3 %. One
was always low and the other 2 were always high.
So they are accurate for most anything around the house for most people.
I checked the first half dozen or so against our NIST-traceable meters, and also found good agreement as long as the battery was fresh. One meter produced absurdly high readings when the battery was low; the only way to diagnose this was to put in a fresh one since the meter did not have a LO BAT indicator (I assume it was too low for the band gap reference).
On Friday, July 3, 2020 at 7:14:22 AM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Just for the fun of it, I did test the 3 \'free\' Harbor Freight meters on
AC and DC yeaterday. From 0 to 25 VDC the HF meters were within about
.5 % of the Fluke meter. On AC up to 130 VAC they were around 3 %. One
was always low and the other 2 were always high.
So they are accurate for most anything around the house for most people.
I checked the first half dozen or so against our NIST-traceable meters, and also found good agreement as long as the battery was fresh. One meter produced absurdly high readings when the battery was low; the only way to diagnose this was to put in a fresh one since the meter did not have a LO BAT indicator (I assume it was too low for the band gap reference).
Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2020 04:26:12 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Mon, 29 Jun 2020 04:02:23 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 3:59:31 PM UTC-7, Commander Kinsey wrote:
... I just want to know how close to the correct reading the readout is. Adding another digit doesn\'t improve anything if it\'s incorrect. And shooting all the bullets in one place doesn\'t help if they all miss.
Not true; sometimes a reading difference doesn\'t have to be greater than the calibration error,
it still tells you something. Accuracy is not the only merit of an instrument, sensitivity
and precision matter.
A completely uncalibrated item (like a level or plumb bob) has no \'digits\' at all,
but is completely helpful.
Ha. There has to be some goverment lab, somwhere with cal stickers on
construction levels or a plumb bob.
Indeed. In Scotland, the government is actually considering throwing money around to produce pointless jobs to fit insulation into houses.
1) You don\'t create jobs for the sake of it, you might as well just hand that money to those workers.
2) We\'ve already got insulation from the last round of tax wasting.
3) If you want insulation, pay for it yourself.
Does this involve the insulation cladding or panels attached to the ouside
of building?
Not sure, I have no interest in having other people do things to my house, I do DIY.
I assume the answer to your question is \"sometimes\", based on what\'s been done to other houses previously. If it\'s double brick, they pump in stuff through drilled holes. If it\'s single brick, they attach foam sheets then put pebbledash over it.
My house is double brick with just an air gap. R of 6 is enough for me.
Fair enough. I noticed construction practices are very different by
country. We have some really flimbsy accepted practices in the US for new
construction. The obsession here with insulating everything results in
buildings that will mold and rot from the smallest of water leaks. You can
flood and older building and since it\'s not sealed up like a plastic
freezer bag, it will dry out and be fine. The codes vary from state to
state as well. Some places are more tolerant of fiery death traps and
buildings that collapse while being built.
Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2020 04:26:12 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Mon, 29 Jun 2020 04:02:23 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 3:59:31 PM UTC-7, Commander Kinsey wrote:
... I just want to know how close to the correct reading the readout is. Adding another digit doesn\'t improve anything if it\'s incorrect. And shooting all the bullets in one place doesn\'t help if they all miss.
Not true; sometimes a reading difference doesn\'t have to be greater than the calibration error,
it still tells you something. Accuracy is not the only merit of an instrument, sensitivity
and precision matter.
A completely uncalibrated item (like a level or plumb bob) has no \'digits\' at all,
but is completely helpful.
Ha. There has to be some goverment lab, somwhere with cal stickers on
construction levels or a plumb bob.
Indeed. In Scotland, the government is actually considering throwing money around to produce pointless jobs to fit insulation into houses.
1) You don\'t create jobs for the sake of it, you might as well just hand that money to those workers.
2) We\'ve already got insulation from the last round of tax wasting.
3) If you want insulation, pay for it yourself.
Does this involve the insulation cladding or panels attached to the ouside
of building?
Not sure, I have no interest in having other people do things to my house, I do DIY.
I assume the answer to your question is \"sometimes\", based on what\'s been done to other houses previously. If it\'s double brick, they pump in stuff through drilled holes. If it\'s single brick, they attach foam sheets then put pebbledash over it.
My house is double brick with just an air gap. R of 6 is enough for me.
Fair enough. I noticed construction practices are very different by
country. We have some really flimbsy accepted practices in the US for new
construction. The obsession here with insulating everything results in
buildings that will mold and rot from the smallest of water leaks. You can
flood and older building and since it\'s not sealed up like a plastic
freezer bag, it will dry out and be fine. The codes vary from state to
state as well. Some places are more tolerant of fiery death traps and
buildings that collapse while being built.
Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2020 04:26:12 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
Commander Kinsey <CFKinsey@military.org.jp> wrote:
On Mon, 29 Jun 2020 04:02:23 +0100, Cydrome Leader <presence@mungepanix.com> wrote:
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 3:59:31 PM UTC-7, Commander Kinsey wrote:
... I just want to know how close to the correct reading the readout is. Adding another digit doesn\'t improve anything if it\'s incorrect. And shooting all the bullets in one place doesn\'t help if they all miss.
Not true; sometimes a reading difference doesn\'t have to be greater than the calibration error,
it still tells you something. Accuracy is not the only merit of an instrument, sensitivity
and precision matter.
A completely uncalibrated item (like a level or plumb bob) has no \'digits\' at all,
but is completely helpful.
Ha. There has to be some goverment lab, somwhere with cal stickers on
construction levels or a plumb bob.
Indeed. In Scotland, the government is actually considering throwing money around to produce pointless jobs to fit insulation into houses.
1) You don\'t create jobs for the sake of it, you might as well just hand that money to those workers.
2) We\'ve already got insulation from the last round of tax wasting.
3) If you want insulation, pay for it yourself.
Does this involve the insulation cladding or panels attached to the ouside
of building?
Not sure, I have no interest in having other people do things to my house, I do DIY.
I assume the answer to your question is \"sometimes\", based on what\'s been done to other houses previously. If it\'s double brick, they pump in stuff through drilled holes. If it\'s single brick, they attach foam sheets then put pebbledash over it.
My house is double brick with just an air gap. R of 6 is enough for me.
Fair enough. I noticed construction practices are very different by
country. We have some really flimbsy accepted practices in the US for new
construction. The obsession here with insulating everything results in
buildings that will mold and rot from the smallest of water leaks. You can
flood and older building and since it\'s not sealed up like a plastic
freezer bag, it will dry out and be fine. The codes vary from state to
state as well. Some places are more tolerant of fiery death traps and
buildings that collapse while being built.
Like butting your head against a brick wall, isn\'t it?You are a dangerous fool. Either learn how to use a meter properly, or don\'t touch them. You only know enough to get someone killed.
Like butting your head against a brick wall, isn\'t it?You are a dangerous fool. Either learn how to use a meter properly, or don\'t touch them. You only know enough to get someone killed.
On Thu, 25 Jun 2020 02:31:23 +0100, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
That\'s not the whole story; the percentage part is often a percentage
of the FULL RANGE to which the instrument is switched.
How do I know which one the % error refers to, as I\'ve never seen it stated in the instructions? That would make a big difference if I was reading 0.4 amps on a 10 amp range.
On Thu, 25 Jun 2020 02:31:23 +0100, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
That\'s not the whole story; the percentage part is often a percentage
of the FULL RANGE to which the instrument is switched.
How do I know which one the % error refers to, as I\'ve never seen it stated in the instructions? That would make a big difference if I was reading 0.4 amps on a 10 amp range.
On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 10:52:44 AM UTC-7, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 25 Jun 2020 02:31:23 +0100, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
[about accuracy/error specifications on a multimeter]
That\'s not the whole story; the percentage part is often a percentage
of the FULL RANGE to which the instrument is switched.
How do I know which one the % error refers to, as I\'ve never seen it stated in the instructions? That would make a big difference if I was reading 0.4 amps on a 10 amp range.
When the literature says percent, and doesn\'t say what it\'s percent OF, the error
is unspecified. I\'ve got facemasks that are \"90% efficient\' which apparently
means that ninety percent of the air I breathe goes through them...
On Saturday, July 11, 2020 at 10:52:44 AM UTC-7, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 25 Jun 2020 02:31:23 +0100, whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
[about accuracy/error specifications on a multimeter]
That\'s not the whole story; the percentage part is often a percentage
of the FULL RANGE to which the instrument is switched.
How do I know which one the % error refers to, as I\'ve never seen it stated in the instructions? That would make a big difference if I was reading 0.4 amps on a 10 amp range.
When the literature says percent, and doesn\'t say what it\'s percent OF, the error
is unspecified. I\'ve got facemasks that are \"90% efficient\' which apparently
means that ninety percent of the air I breathe goes through them...