LG Model 26LX2D LCD TV, Dead

[Jim Yanik]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:5v0Hp.306$G14.81@newsfe11.ams2:

As to changing the tips, for the most part I've found that just two
double ended ones - so four types / sizes altogether - do for the vast
majority of items that I come across. So that's one bit in the chuck,
and the other in the storage clip on the top. And the chuck is a
keyless hand type, so very quick for bit changing, even when you are
shooting rapidly between drill bit sizes, as I have been on the latest
woodworking project. Speaking of which, I've now changed exclusively
to Torx headed woodscrews with self-cutting threads (they have a tiny
'circular saw' in the lower threads, and self-cutting counter-sinking
flutes under the heads. They are a tad more expensive than
'conventional' ones, but they are brilliant for use with an electric
screwdriver, and can even be screwed almost effortlessly by hand into
soft woods, without any kind of pilot hole at all. Quite remarkable
advance in fixing technology. And best of all, you can drive them at a
serious angle, where space is limited to get your driver in

Arfa

One problem is that some people may be using WORN phillips bits with their
electric drivers. it makes a poor situation worse.
WRT woodworking,square drive(Robertson)screws are great and very popular.
The pros prefer them.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 06 Jun 2011 09:18:18 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:

A major problem is that neither Phillips or slotted screws were made for
power driving. camout is a big problem. Pozidrive was created to avoid
that,but it never rally took hold. Then came Torx,and that's become more
prevalent,but Philips is still the primary screwhead in use.

Compaq and HP desktop computahs are full of T10 screw heads on 6-32
screws. Just about everything else is Philips. The most common
screws in desktops are 6-32 with a combination 1/4" hex and Philips
drive, and M3 screws with just the Philips head. The larger 6-32
works well with electric screwdrivers. The small M3 will get stripped
out quite easily. Since both will fit a #2 Philips bit, the
temptation to use it on the smaller screws is just too much.

By "small screws",are you referring to screws smaller than 6-32 or similar?
4-40 is a bit small for power driving,but my B&D screwdriver worked OK for
them. a good torque clutch is a necessity.

Nope. 6-32 will mostly work. By mostly, I mean into anything that is
*NOT* screwed into ultra thin soft steel sheet metal, which can be
stripped with little effort. That eliminates many computer cases.

By smaller, I mean the M3 computer case screws and the M2, M2.5, and
M3 laptop screws. For M2 and M2.5, there's just not enough metal in
the head to survive. In addition, they tend to be recessed below the
laptop surface, making it very difficult to extract when stripped.
However, stripping the head is not the most common failure mode. It's
cracking the plastic mount supporting the threaded brass insert.
That's even more difficult to repair, as it usually requires complete
disassembly and glue.

Maybe when commodity electric driver/screwdriver torque limiters are
marked and calibrated in inch-lbs or Newton-meters, like any good
industrial pneumatic screwdriver, I might feel a little better about
using one.
<http://www.assemblymag.com/Articles/Feature_Article/d2050b330b5c9010VgnVCM100000f932a8c0____>


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

Hi Jim and Everyone,

UPDATE:

Several electroylitics on the PSU board, especially low voltage types,
have higher than normal ESR.

I gave an estimate for this repair, but my customer declined to have
it repaired.

Again, Thanks to Everyone, John



On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 13:47:45 -0500, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

jaugustine@verizon.net wrote in
news:sgfnu69ov0bl10qcbbq0vbsvmfqhptollk@4ax.com:

Hi,

Thanks to everyone for your responses. The first thing I look
for is bulging electroys, but in this case, not a single one is
bulging.

Clarification on "Blinking Red Light":

The Red Light blinks (actually dims) when I press on the "ON/OFF"
(power) button, otherwise it is "steady" red.

Since my customer had this TV at his vocation home in FLA, and
this
problem (won't turn on) occurred when he returned there, I have to
consider the possibility of storm damage since he keeps it plugged in
when he is away, and no surge protection.

John


On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:06:39 -0400, in sci.electronics.repair you
wrote:

Hi,

I am servicing a LG model 26LX2D 26" LCD TV that is "dead"
(won't turn
on). The only sign of activity is a red blinking light near the remote
sensor receiver.

I do not have a SM for this TV yet. I don't want to risk
ordering the
PS unit unless....

Has anyone repaired this model LG TV (dead)?

Thank You in Advance, John

PS, Remove "ine" from my email address




it could just be a bad "housekeeping supply" electrolytic in the PS;
the cap that supplies the switcher IC's Vcc,or a failed resistor that
charges it when the set is OFF. An ESR meter would show a high ESR for the
cap,even if it is not bulging or discolored.

 

hi,

here are a lot of schematics for esr meters, analog, digital, easy, ready made
every technician should have an esr meter on hand ...
have a look !

http://kripton2035.free.fr/esr-repository.html

regards,

On 2011-06-06 18:10:47 +0200, jaugustine@verizon.net said:

Hi Jim and Everyone,

UPDATE:

Several electroylitics on the PSU board, especially low voltage types,
have higher than normal ESR.

I gave an estimate for this repair, but my customer declined to have
it repaired.

Again, Thanks to Everyone, John



On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 13:47:45 -0500, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

jaugustine@verizon.net wrote in
news:sgfnu69ov0bl10qcbbq0vbsvmfqhptollk@4ax.com:

Hi,

Thanks to everyone for your responses. The first thing I look
for is bulging electroys, but in this case, not a single one is
bulging.

Clarification on "Blinking Red Light":

The Red Light blinks (actually dims) when I press on the "ON/OFF"
(power) button, otherwise it is "steady" red.

Since my customer had this TV at his vocation home in FLA, and
this
problem (won't turn on) occurred when he returned there, I have to
consider the possibility of storm damage since he keeps it plugged in
when he is away, and no surge protection.

John


On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:06:39 -0400, in sci.electronics.repair you
wrote:

Hi,

I am servicing a LG model 26LX2D 26" LCD TV that is "dead"
(won't turn
on). The only sign of activity is a red blinking light near the remote
sensor receiver.

I do not have a SM for this TV yet. I don't want to risk
ordering the
PS unit unless....

Has anyone repaired this model LG TV (dead)?

Thank You in Advance, John

PS, Remove "ine" from my email address




it could just be a bad "housekeeping supply" electrolytic in the PS;
the cap that supplies the switcher IC's Vcc,or a failed resistor that
charges it when the set is OFF. An ESR meter would show a high ESR for the
cap,even if it is not bulging or discolored.

--
---
Kripton

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 04 Jun 2011 08:06:39 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net put finger
to keyboard and composed:

I am servicing a LG model 26LX2D 26" LCD TV that is "dead" (won't turn
on). The only sign of activity is a red blinking light near the remote sensor
receiver.

I do not have a SM for this TV yet.

This site was offline during the last couple of days ...
http://www.jordansmanuals.com/default.aspx?Brand=LG&Product=TV-LCD

I realise that you have already found your manual but, FWIW, I expect
that the 32LX2D model may be similar ...

BTW, the above site is an excellent resource, especially for LG
service manuals (Australian market).

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Arfa Daily]

John. Can I just ask for the future, that you post your replies at the
bottom of the existing content, as is accepted usenet practice, rather than
at the top as you would conventionally do with emails. Top posting,
especially when the greater majority are sticking by the bottom posting
convention, makes the thread very difficult to follow in terms of what's
been said by whom, and when.

Thanks

Arfa