Level 1 Charger Plug...

[Stephen Wolstenholme]

On Sat, 6 Aug 2022 11:46:32 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas
<charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:

The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.

With a problem like that, my first shot would be to sparingly,
start hitting single parts in that area with cold spray, and see if the
color came back.
If not, then start troubleshooting. That even had success during the 1980s!


Another technique is to heat the IC up with a hot hair dryer to see if you can get
it to act up that way. This worked during the 1980\'s also. Overheating microprocessors
beyond their temperature coefficients can be dodgy... They can be tricky.

I used a soldering iron without any solder to heat individual
components, hair dryers tended to heat everything up at once. That was
a long time before the 1980\'s

Steve
--
Neural Network Software for Windows http://www.npsnn.com

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 07 Aug 2022 13:17:02 +0100, Stephen Wolstenholme
<steve@easynn.com> wrote:

On Sat, 6 Aug 2022 11:46:32 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas
charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:


The article to which you repled was posted April 15, 2000.

With a problem like that, my first shot would be to sparingly,
start hitting single parts in that area with cold spray, and see if the
color came back.
If not, then start troubleshooting. That even had success during the 1980s!


Another technique is to heat the IC up with a hot hair dryer to see if you can get
it to act up that way. This worked during the 1980\'s also. Overheating microprocessors
beyond their temperature coefficients can be dodgy... They can be tricky.


I used a soldering iron without any solder to heat individual
components, hair dryers tended to heat everything up at once. That was
a long time before the 1980\'s

Steve

Hair dryers, large heat guns, paint strippers, butane torches, and
flame throwers are too large for heating individual components.
Smaller is better (mini or micro heat gun):
<https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802432742384.html>
<https://www.google.com/search?q=mini+heat+gun&tbm=isch>
Personally, I have several temperature controlled SMD desoldering
stations and adapters with very small diameter stainless tips. It
took a while to optimize the air flow and temperature settings, but
works well enough for localized heating.

I\'ve also thought about building a small IR heater consisting of a hot
nichrome wire and a polished aluminum reflector to concentrate the
heat. Because there\'s no flame or blowing air, it should be able to
heat individual components without also heating up everything in the
vicinity. Yet another project.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Chuck]

On Sun, 10 Jul 2022 13:35:55 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas
<charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:

On Saturday, April 15, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, wire wrote:
I am working on my aunts vcr and it just started to play color
tapes in black and white. I assumed it was just dirty and needed
cleaning. Took it apart and for the most part it is very clean.
cleaned up what little dirt there was and reassembled it. Still
plays tapes in black and white. What are some common things
that would cause this?
Thanks
Peter
--
!!!!!!!!!!!Go Build a Robot!!!!!!!!!!!
! http://members.home.net/wireb/ !
!!!!!!!!!!!Go Build a Robot!!!!!!!!!!!
Peter Shabino Graduated Electrical Engineering
wi...@home.com Michigan Technological University
2015 41st ST. NW apt. F13 Now at
Rochester, MN 55901 IBM card test division
Check the luminance/chrominance [luma/chroma] circuitry that controls the picture output
in black and white and color. I would check the 3.58 MHz crystal oscillator also on the video
output as well. This things help with the color processing. Usually, it is an IC or integrated
circuit (could even be a flatpack) that controls this or some discreet component like a transistor,
resistor, or cap. that activates the IC).

The problem can be open filter capacitors in the power supply.
Excessive hash on the B+ busses can kill the color circuitry.

 

[Charles Lucas]

Both of these are some of the most interesting responses I have heard.
Really great replies. Thanks for the insight. I was making the suggestion
I made because we found the general vicinity of the problem, then measured
voltages to hone down the specific line where the culprit was.

The problem can be open filter capacitors in the power supply.
Excessive hash on the B+ busses can kill the color circuitry.

excellent suggestions and replies. Thank you.

 

[gyaba]

HELLO I\'d appreciate if you could send me Mechanic of cells by David boal solution.
Thank you
gyaba
2016年6月6日月曜日 12:23:58 UTC+9 marks...@gmail.com:

Solutions Manuals & Test Banks
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Solution Manual An Introduction to Mechanics (1st Ed., Daniel Kleppner, Robert J. Kolenkow)
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Solution Manual Mathematical Methods for Physics and Engineering : A Comprehensive Guide (3rd Ed., K. F. Riley, M. P. Hobson, S. J. Bence)
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Solution Manual Nanoengineering of Structural, Functional and Smart Materials (Mark Schulz, Ajit Kelkar, Mannur Sundaresan)
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Solution Manual Astronomy : Journey to the Cosmic Frontier (3rd Ed., John D. Fix)
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___________________________________________________________________________________________________


contact me to : matt...@gmail.com mattosbw1(at)gmail.com



Are available a lot of solution manuals/test banks (it is just a partial list). Then if you need a solutions manual/test bank just send me an email. Change the (at) for @


___________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

[Swole Quads Kilzer]

On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 11:10:19 PM UTC-5, Phoena Greene wrote:

pec...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6816c938-afe8-470e...@googlegroups.com...
On Friday, June 15, 2001 at 9:37:42 PM UTC-5, Cynthia Criss wrote:
I am trying to find an AT&T 6200 Electronic portable typewriter
instruction
manual. Would anyone know a company that could be contacted regarding
how
to obtain the instruction manual? I have called every small business
sales or repair company in Reno trying to find one, and so far not one
business has carried this line or services this line.

Thanks!

I have a manual for Model 6210 if that would help. I also have the
typewriter, which usually works beautifully, but it is hanging up
sometimes when I turn it on lately, and I can\'t find out how to get it
going again. Would appreciate it if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks.
I have an idea. Maybe Raeanne was typing on your typewriter when she decided
to suck a big black cock and didn\'t swallow so black jizz fell in your
typewriter keys.

I like the vibe. good verbage

 

[Charles Lucas]

On Monday, August 15, 2022 at 3:19:54 AM UTC-5, gyaba wrote:

HELLO I\'d appreciate if you could send me Mechanic of cells by David boal solution.
Thank you
gyaba

Are you a qualified or certified teacher?

contact me to : matt...@gmail.com mattosbw1(at)gmail.com



Are available a lot of solution manuals/test banks (it is just a partial list). Then if you need a solutions manual/test bank just send me an email. Change the (at) for @


___________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

[Peter W.]

> Are you a qualified or certified teacher?

Surely, neither.

 

[Joe Jaramillo]

I have the same problem on a C 430. I’ll be playing either quiet or loud and then a hear A rumbling noise that kind of trails off for a bit and then comes back. Did you ever find out what the root cause was?


On Wednesday, March 12, 2003 at 9:56:01 AM UTC-8, Michael and Janet Inman wrote:

I have a Yamaha CLP-411 Clavinova that is about five years old. It has
developed an occasional rumbling sound that comes from both speakers.
It only lasts a few seconds at a time, is unbelievable loud, very low in
pitch, and sounds just like wind noise on a microphone. Seems to happen at
random times although more common when someone is playing it. Volume
control position has no effect on the noise volume but does sometimes seem
to affect the timbre of the noise. It goes away when you plug headphones in
(you don\'t hear it in the headphones).
Without the benefit of a service manual/schematic, I have tried to trace the
analog audio signal with an oscilloscope to at least determine from which
stage the noise is coming. I\'m suspecting it\'s originating in the power amp
section - the amps are IC \"bricks\", one for each channel but since it\'s in
both speakers equally I\'m thinking it\'s not them. Due to the sheer volume
of the noise it actually loads the power supply to a point where signals at
all stages are affected. I did change the filter cap in the dc supply. No
improvement.
I did read some newsgroup accounts of noise in the Clavinovas being due to
dirty contacts in the volume control... I\'m picking up some contact cleaner
today and will try that but I\'m not too optimistic about it.
Any experience with this problem or guidance much appreciated.
Mike

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sun, 25 Sep 2022 11:23:10 -0700 (PDT), Joe Jaramillo
<joej1959@gmail.com> wrote:

>I have the same problem on a C 430. I’ll be playing either quiet or loud and then a hear A rumbling noise that kind of trails off for a bit and then comes back. Did you ever find out what the root cause was?

There\'s an important clue in the text:
\"It goes away when you plug headphones\"

My guess(tm) is it\'s some form of microphonics. That\'s where the
speakers cause some electribuc component to vibrate, which then causes
audible noises in the speakers. If the gain and phase of the
amplifier is correct, it will produce low frequency feedback, which is
the rumbling noise you hear. If the noise was a high pitched squeal,
then it would be high frequency feedback.

In your case, you have a \"C 430\". That might be a Yamaha NX-C430
speaker system. The system does not have any built in amplifier(s),
so there\'s nothing wrong with the speakers. I suggest you remove your
speakers from the amplifier or receiver case, and the microphonics
will likely be reduced or stop.

Incidentally, you\'re only 19 years too late to catch the original
posters.

On Wednesday, March 12, 2003 at 9:56:01 AM UTC-8, Michael and Janet Inman wrote:
I have a Yamaha CLP-411 Clavinova that is about five years old. It has
developed an occasional rumbling sound that comes from both speakers.
It only lasts a few seconds at a time, is unbelievable loud, very low in
pitch, and sounds just like wind noise on a microphone. Seems to happen at
random times although more common when someone is playing it. Volume
control position has no effect on the noise volume but does sometimes seem
to affect the timbre of the noise. It goes away when you plug headphones in
(you don\'t hear it in the headphones).
Without the benefit of a service manual/schematic, I have tried to trace the
analog audio signal with an oscilloscope to at least determine from which
stage the noise is coming. I\'m suspecting it\'s originating in the power amp
section - the amps are IC \"bricks\", one for each channel but since it\'s in
both speakers equally I\'m thinking it\'s not them. Due to the sheer volume
of the noise it actually loads the power supply to a point where signals at
all stages are affected. I did change the filter cap in the dc supply. No
improvement.
I did read some newsgroup accounts of noise in the Clavinovas being due to
dirty contacts in the volume control... I\'m picking up some contact cleaner
today and will try that but I\'m not too optimistic about it.
Any experience with this problem or guidance much appreciated.
Mike

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[legg]

On Sun, 25 Sep 2022 19:40:36 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Sep 2022 11:23:10 -0700 (PDT), Joe Jaramillo
joej1959@gmail.com> wrote:

I have the same problem on a C 430. I’ll be playing either quiet or loud and then a hear A rumbling noise that kind of trails off for a bit and then comes back. Did you ever find out what the root cause was?

There\'s an important clue in the text:
\"It goes away when you plug headphones\"

My guess(tm) is it\'s some form of microphonics. That\'s where the
speakers cause some electribuc component to vibrate, which then causes
audible noises in the speakers. If the gain and phase of the
amplifier is correct, it will produce low frequency feedback, which is
the rumbling noise you hear. If the noise was a high pitched squeal,
then it would be high frequency feedback.

In your case, you have a \"C 430\". That might be a Yamaha NX-C430
speaker system. The system does not have any built in amplifier(s),
so there\'s nothing wrong with the speakers. I suggest you remove your
speakers from the amplifier or receiver case, and the microphonics
will likely be reduced or stop.

You might check boards for degrading adhesive employed in tack-on or
harness security, in this case - after the volume control section.

RL

Incidentally, you\'re only 19 years too late to catch the original
posters.

On Wednesday, March 12, 2003 at 9:56:01 AM UTC-8, Michael and Janet Inman wrote:
I have a Yamaha CLP-411 Clavinova that is about five years old. It has
developed an occasional rumbling sound that comes from both speakers.
It only lasts a few seconds at a time, is unbelievable loud, very low in
pitch, and sounds just like wind noise on a microphone. Seems to happen at
random times although more common when someone is playing it. Volume
control position has no effect on the noise volume but does sometimes seem
to affect the timbre of the noise. It goes away when you plug headphones in
(you don\'t hear it in the headphones).
Without the benefit of a service manual/schematic, I have tried to trace the
analog audio signal with an oscilloscope to at least determine from which
stage the noise is coming. I\'m suspecting it\'s originating in the power amp
section - the amps are IC \"bricks\", one for each channel but since it\'s in
both speakers equally I\'m thinking it\'s not them. Due to the sheer volume
of the noise it actually loads the power supply to a point where signals at
all stages are affected. I did change the filter cap in the dc supply. No
improvement.
I did read some newsgroup accounts of noise in the Clavinovas being due to
dirty contacts in the volume control... I\'m picking up some contact cleaner
today and will try that but I\'m not too optimistic about it.
Any experience with this problem or guidance much appreciated.
Mike

 

[MKsoft]

вторник, 26 марта 2002 г. в 15:45:11 UTC+3, Tim Schwartz:
Can you give me foto DX-900 service manual?

 

[MKsoft is an idiot]

MKsoft <maks.mksoft@gmail.com> wrote:

???????, 26 ????? 2002 ?. ? 15:45:11 UTC+3, Tim Schwartz:
Can you give me foto DX-900 service manual?

And you think the poster of a 20 year old post is going to still be
waiting for your question?

Idiot google groups user

 

[Peter W.]

On Tuesday, October 18, 2022 at 9:49:46 AM UTC-4, MKsoft is an idiot wrote:

MKsoft <maks....@gmail.com> wrote:
???????, 26 ????? 2002 ?. ? 15:45:11 UTC+3, Tim Schwartz:
Can you give me foto DX-900 service manual?
And you think the poster of a 20 year old post is going to still be
waiting for your question?

Idiot google groups user

https://www.manuals-in-pdf.com/download-DX900C-TOSHIBA-p-394517.html

Now, how hard was that, writing of idiots?

 

[Ali J]

On Saturday, July 9, 2022 at 11:00:39 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:

No if it\'s an obvious fraud or spam.
Just saying, it\'s the buyer\'s responsibility to figure
that and anything else, out.
a) The average consumer knows less about solar than he/she knows about the US Constitution.
b) The average sales person in the Solar Industry, based on personal experience, has the ethics of the typical congress member, and the morals of the typical Evangelical preacher.

True, \"Caveat Emptor\" is applicable. At the same time, the Solar Industry, and its Shills owes the average consumer honest and complete answers to specific questions. Certainly no less than that. What is clear, however, from the advertising out there is that those \'honest answers\' are thin on the ground.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I just came across some good news here about solar\'s many benefits in Pennsylvania: https://inspiritingly.com/solar-pa/

Beyond reducing your utility bill, the tax credits are amazing, standing at 26% federal, in addition to much more from States and even some local financial incentives. Not only that but it provides American jobs that CAN\'T be outsourced.

 

[Peter W.]

Latest proposal we had from a \'legitimate\' solar installer (September) would cost us $32,000 up front, $22,400 after subsidies, and have an 11year, 4 month payback. Not my numbers. The installer offered, what he described as \'very generous\' financing at 3.2%. That comes it at $218.37 per month for ten years, or a total of $26,204.40. Extending the payback to just over 13 years. Again, not my numbers, but those provided by the installer. This for a 10KW roof-mounted installation. Not including any related roof repairs. Yes, we have enough roof facing south to accommodate this level of installation.

At this moment, we have a locked in contract with a renewable provider for our electric power at $0.0630 KWH for the next three years, with four (4) three-year options at a capped rise of 8% every three years. Our present monthly electric bill (annual average/12) is $140/month. Let\'s use the rate after the third option $152.28. We will pay our local utility to transport the power in any case one way or the other, but somewhat less for the power we consume on-site - which will not be transported. So, let\'s look at a blended rate of $0.10/KWH, vs. the $0.14 we are paying now for both generation and transport. And let\'s use 20% of our present consumption. So, we will still be paying the power company $37/month for small use, and connection fees. So, our average savings will be, in reality, very roughly $120/month. Factor inflation, make that $200/month.

$26,204.40/200 = 131 months, several days. So, a better number is about an 11 year payback. Better than \'promised\' by a few months. What we have not calculated:

a) Any roof repairs - minimal in our case as the roof is only three years old with a 30-year NDL warranty.
b) Increase in our homeowner\'s insurance - per our agent (Farmers), that would come to about $400/year.
c) Maintenance & repair (M&R) - life of a single grid-tie inverter is about 10 years, and the cost would be about $3,500 installed. Micro-Inverters (panel mounted) have about a 6-year life and require removal of the panel to repair. Not cheap. Does not include snow and leaf removal. Solar panels are series-mounted cells, so if one cell goes \'dark\' the entire string goes dark.
d) Eventual removal, disposal, and roof repair at end-of-life.

Or, I can have power delivered from the Rocky Ridge wind farm in central PA at a reasonable cost. And have someone else worry about it.

And, take that same $218.37 and put it into an annuity at 4.2% - what they are paying these days - and have $37,208 in the bank after that same 11 years.

We are pretty efficient for a 4,200 s.f. three-story center-hall colonial built in 1890. We use splits (SEER 25) for heating and cooling, central heat is a 97% efficient boiler, and there are thermostatic valves on the radiators. So, we can keep the house at a reasonable 58 - 60F in the winter, and eight rooms have splits in them which we may set at any temperature we like.

And, at no time did we steal from other taxpayers.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Peter W.]

Fascinating that you should link to a Canadian website registered just in June of 2022, and updated just today. And, per my protection software, also a phishing site.

 

[Peter W.]

Not to pile it on or anything:

https://ecogenamerica.com/cost-of-solar-panels-in-pa/

 

[bruce bowser]

Peter,
solar and wind are growing, the rest are dead (or they just don\'t know it, yet)

 

[James Yuan]

在 2020年4月15日星期三 UTC+8 12:07:42，<Mike S> 写道：

I have Skullcandy Crusher headphones and the hinge plastic broke. It\'s a
really common problem with them. I don\'t need a hinge, I\'d like to epoxy
the hinge joint in the fully open position as it would be when being
worn. I tried using 2 part epoxy to hold it together, but it wasn\'t
plastic rated epoxy and it held perfectly for about 4 minutes, it was
easy to pry off of the plastic and it was clear it didn\'t adhere well at
all. I remember making plastic model cars and planes as a kid, the glue
seemed like it melted the plastic pieces into one another for a really
good joint, like a weld in metal. I don\'t know what grade the plastic
they used for the joints is and I don\'t know how to find that
information. Is there an all purpose adhesive or epoxy that I can use to
make one big solid mass of plastic? Or do I pretty much have to try the
various adhesives used for different grades of plastic?

This amazon ad says

Loctite Super Glue Plastics Bonding System with Activator 2-Gram (681925)

Bonds plastics such as Plexiglas, polycarbonate, polystyrene, PVC,
polyethylene, polypropylene and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)/Teflon.
Plus rubber, leather, cork, paper, cardboard, wood, chipboard, fabric,
metal and ceramic.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-Activator-681925/dp/B000Y3LHXW


Loctite sells 2 different adhesives for these two different types of plastic

The easiest way to identify a plastic type is by its label, commonly a
recycling symbol. Plastics marked with a 6 or “PS” are polystyrenes.
These are used for simple items like disposable cutlery, plastic bowls,
or fashion bags. For these, the best glue is a poly cement such as
Loctite Plastic Bonder.

Other types of plastic are used for tougher industrial or construction
uses, such as drainpipes. Special plastics are even used for medical
applications and bulletproof vests. For gluing these plastics, try
Loctite Plastics Bonding System, which creates a powerful bond with just
one drop.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/know-how/fix-stuff/plastic-glue.html


JB Weld PlasticWeld comes with this note:

While this product works beautifully with most varieties of plastic,
please be aware that there are certain types - including polyethylene
and polypropylene sheet - that it will not adhere to.

https://www.acplasticsinc.com/informationcenter/r/the-best-adhesives-for-plastics

Deepmaterial is reactive hot melt pressure sensitive adhesive manufacturer and supplier, manufacturing one component epoxy underfill adhesives, hot melt adhesives glue, uv curing adhesives,high refractive index optical adhesive, magnet bonding adhesives, best top waterproof structural adhesive glue for plastic to metal and glass, electronic adhesives glue for electric motor and micro motors in home appliance.
For more visit:
https://www.epoxyadhesiveglue.com/
https://www.deepmaterialcn.com/