Lead free solder - exposed in a UK national newspaper

[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Tuesday 29 April 2008 00:53, Jamie wrote:

why not use a isolation xformer for the heaters?

I also read about those, but didn't investigate. It's basically the same idea
as winding an extra turn on the flyback, right? Do you simply place it between
the original filament power supply+gnd and filament? How does it affect image
quality, also taking into account the eventual possible situation that the
blue cathode will be in contact with the heater permanently?

 

[Jamie]

Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

On Monday 28 April 2008 19:00, James Sweet wrote:


Yep, sounds like it really is the tube. If it's a heater-cathode short, you
could isolate the heater, powering it with 2 or 3 turns of wire around the
flyback core. Careful not to overdo it, it really only takes a couple of
turns on these high frequency transformers.


Indeed, I read about that. The downside is, that image quality will suffer,
because the cathode will/can be in contact with those wires, which have stray
capacitance, and noise pickup, etc.

Additionally, I don't know if the Trinitrons feature of automatic color
calibration touches the filament current, but if so, that will render that
feature useless, and it's a feature I love about this monitor. Do you know if
it does so?

But I will try the shake/tap method a bit more first. The short is every so
slight, that even after 20 seconds of warming up, the fault is almost
completely gone and hardly reproduceable. I wonder if it also does it when
it's upside-down...
why not use a isolation xformer for the heaters?

--
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

"Daily Thought:

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT
THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Tuesday 29 April 2008 00:51, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

On Tuesday 29 April 2008 00:53, Jamie wrote:

why not use a isolation xformer for the heaters?

I also read about those, but didn't investigate. It's basically the same idea
as winding an extra turn on the flyback, right? Do you simply place it
between the original filament power supply+gnd and filament? How does it
affect image quality, also taking into account the eventual possible
situation that the blue cathode will be in contact with the heater
permanently?

One more question about them: the cathode signal is not DC, so won't current
from the cathode driver still find it's way to ground through the transformer?

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Apr 28, 2:09 pm, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

James Sweet <jamessw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:EkoRj.9384$E77.9069@trnddc05...







"N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:fv51pt$pvi$1@registered.motzarella.org...
James Sweet <jamessw...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ArnRj.637$PY5.15@trnddc01...

What seems strange is this transformer must be half or third of the
volume
of the ones in compact camera flashes but the tube is perhaps 100x
the
volume of the tube in one of those cameras (1cm diameter, 20cm long).
Don't
know the joules rating of this one, a large studio flash unit, but
530V
standing voltage. Perhaps 2m of wire wrapped around the flash tube,
as
trigger, all in all  seems inadequtely tiny in comparison.

I think I'll try 2 camera ones in series with 100 ohms initially to
try
and
localise why not triggering. I may try subbing this tiny stepup
transformer
with one 3 times the size from a compact camera, as am wondering if
it
could
be internally arcing actoss turns.

The size is virtually irrelevant, as Sam says, almost no current is
required. I've used a tiny trigger transformer salvaged from a
disposable
camera to trigger a huge (about 8" long) 1KJ flash tube. Some are
bigger,
some are smaller, it has more to do with age, manufacturing process,
and
the
need for compactness.

Is it possible to have a non-functional tube with no signs of problems ,
like the black patches on the ends of a fluourescent tube that is on the
way
out.

This one looks perfect other than the glass is a bit dirty on the
outside,
because the distributed trigger stops any cleaning. Not been dropped, no
cracked glass, no odd looking deposits on the elctrodes or on the inside
of
the glass.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Yes, it's possible, but not terribly likely. You should be able to test it
by applying voltage to the tube and using a piezo flame igniter to trigger
it.

I like that suggestion, just connect the arc pin of a piezo gaslighter to
the trigger wire, when the standing voltage is across the tube- pure,
minimilist test.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home..graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

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[Wiebe Cazemier]

On Tuesday 29 April 2008 22:57, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

I can't be sure, but it seems the blue gun has become much less sensitive,
and that the problem now is mainly is the red gun. Maybe it's wishful
thinking, because that would mean that it was some dislodged particle, but
I'd rather not assume the worst yet, so...

Would anyone know if trinitron tubes have particularly fragile heater/cathode
constructions?

The repair FAQ has a comment about having to tap the neck quite hard: "not
enough to break it, but close". How fragile is the neck? It would be
difficult to describe how hard I could hit it without breaking it, but any
advice is welcome.

I've got an additional question. When I put my continuity meter on the GND and
R or B pin, I can't produce a short by any amount of tapping. A very brief
intermittant short should be very clear, because it has an audible beep.
Because I can only reproduce the fault when it's cold, having the heater
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What I want to do, is remove the neck board and do some more testing. Do I need
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<crow_slapper@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

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I didn't know there were charging for Tibets... How much are they?

 

[dupalek]

Best Video! SEX!!
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[Brian]

James Sweet wrote:

Beware cheap Chinese knockoff batteries, they've been known to fail
quickly and/or leak.

I've had good luck with their products in recent years, including this
newer laptop (at one-third the price of a bare-bones 486 motherboard I
bought 17 years ago). But yes, buyer-beware still is a valid philosophy.

-Brian

 

On May 3, 5:19 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <mzachar...@nonsense.net>
wrote:

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:92dc789c-7188-460c-aed3-e3df24b80df4@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I have left the case open, and have the thing sitting on a shelf
vertically.
It worked flawlessly for about 3 days, then spontaneouslt theradio
went dead again.
I ever so gently tapped the heatsink that this transistor is on, and
once
again everything is fine. I have not lifted the board yet to look at
the solder
underneath. However I'm beginning to think that it is the transistor
itself
that is the problem. Can I find the exact replacement atradioshack?
If I'm going to lift the board, I'm thinking it's probably makes sense
to replace the
device.

  Thanks

On Apr 29, 2:32 am, "JANA" <j...@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote:





I strongly suggest you find and fix the cold solder connection that
caused the fault. Or if the transistor is intermittant, replace it.

--

JANA
_____

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:a60fee7d-739c-427d-bf6c-301464aa4ceb@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
OK I took the thing apart and sure enough, there was a sanyo 313E
mounted on a V shaped piece of metal(heatsink?). When I tapped
gently on the metal, everything now works fine.
The small board in question is AWR-011A, which according
to the schematic is the power supply unit.
I would think that if this was the roblem it would effect
everything, not just theradio.
Anyway I will run it for awhile with the case open,
and see if the problem recurs.

On Apr 26, 11:50 am, "Bob Shuman" <no_spam_...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Sounds like something is intermittent in theradiosection (assumes
amplifier/auxiliary input/tape/etc. all are still working fine). I'd
start
by looking for cold/broken solder connections under a magnifying. Or
alternatively, if that does not work and you can get at the board
safely
while the unit is powered up, you can try pushing at various points
with a
wooden dowel or similar non-conductive item. This may help you isolate
the
area to take a closer look.

If these do not help, then you'll either need a schematic, a volt
meter,
scope, and some troubleshooting skills to check the power supply
voltages at
key points and then follow the signal through theradiosection or
take it
to someone to do the work for you.

Bob

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:facbbdcd-1b25-4648-a91b-6c409b7924d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com....

I have apioneersx-727receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently theradiostopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally theradiowill spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just resolder the transistor. You will see that the solder connections there
have ring cracks from age and heating / cooling over the course of time.
Common problem.

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi ,

I decided to lift the board and look at the solder for the device
sanyo 313e.
Before I could do anything the V shaped metal (heatsink?) attached to
the
device just fell off. The plastic screw holding it had just cracked in
half.
There also is a thin piece of plastic between the device and the
heatsink.
I'm assuming that they do want the device to touch the metal.
I could not find a another plastic screw, so I use a metal one with
an
insulating washer. I hope that is ok. Why does the device need to be
insulated from the metal heatsink. Is it strictly pecautionary, in
case
the heatsink comes in contact with something else. Would it be ok
to put some cpu grease between the device and the plastic insulator?
Anyway after all this the solder looked ok, so I did not resolder.
I wonder if my problem all along was that the heatsink
was just hanging on by a thread.
Anyway it seems to work ok. I'll run it for a while with the case
open
as a precaution.

Thanks

 

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[Jamie]

Bob Shuman wrote:

I assume that the box gives an IP address to a computer connected to it?
What address does it give and is it public or private IP range?

FYI, My DSL box (Speedstream 4100 supplied by AT&T) will "pass through" one
public IP address, but also does NAT if I assign static private addresses to
other computers on my inside house network. If I assign computers in the
192.168.0.0/24 subnet (usable addresses are 192.168.0.2-254 with subnet mask
255.255.255.0 and DGW 192.168.0.1), then I can open a HTTP window to the DSL
modem by using http://192.168.0.1 . This page allows me to configure the
modem and also see statistics. YMMV.

Bob


"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:1tnip4.dnb.17.1@news.alt.net...

On Fri, 30 May 2008 23:55:10 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:


In article <1tm885.h9j.19.1@news.alt.net>,
Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote:

I wonder what parameters they measure that the router test prog can't?

Don't know. My modem is a Speedstream 5130 and separate from my pc by a
router so I can't access that data.

Don't see why a router should make any difference to that.

Well I guess not but I should have mentioned the modem has no web
interface to garner any stats from. And unless I'm missing some other
way to connect to it there isn't any besides maybe being able to do it via
it's MAC address if connected directly to the PC via the PPPoE WAN
miniport. I should toss the model number into Google and see if anyone has
been hacking at them.


However I would have to assume the tech's diagnostics dove deeper into
it as he was on the phone with another tech. He also had some pager
device that gave him a security code via satellite to allow him to log
into whatever he logged into using my connection.

All you can really test is the line status. Everything after it depends
on so many variables.

Yeh I suppose your right, I admittedly know little about the carrier side
of DSL.

Which is common and also note that sometimes you need to specify a

higher power number.




http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Meat Plow]

On Sat, 31 May 2008 13:39:06 -0500, Bob Shuman wrote:

I assume that the box gives an IP address to a computer connected to it?
What address does it give and is it public or private IP range?

FYI, My DSL box (Speedstream 4100 supplied by AT&T) will "pass through" one
public IP address, but also does NAT if I assign static private addresses to
other computers on my inside house network. If I assign computers in the
192.168.0.0/24 subnet (usable addresses are 192.168.0.2-254 with subnet mask
255.255.255.0 and DGW 192.168.0.1), then I can open a HTTP window to the DSL
modem by using http://192.168.0.1 . This page allows me to configure the
modem and also see statistics. YMMV.

Bob

Yeh my modem has advanced management at that address but my lan is 1.1
so it can't talk to 0.1.