Lead free solder - exposed in a UK national newspaper

d the world, and often includes the word "old" or is described as
something from a specific time era.
From: service0063@watchec.com
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 00:45:06 -0700 (PDT)
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As clothing styles began to expand in the 1970's, people all over the
world started to embrace and search for vintage clothing items from
the past to mix into their eclectic wardrobes. The definition of
vintage today varies around the world, and often includes the word
"old" or is described as something from a specific time era.

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With the availability to search and buy items on the internet from
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vintage clothing items. Some people search for items that remind them
of when they were young. Some people search for iconic clothing pieces
that feature items such as: video game logos or characters, movie
characters or titles, famous celebrities and company logos.

Vintage styles are often integrated into traditional clothing styles,
creating a truly modern style. Mixing and matching Vintage and Modern
clothing pieces is an extremely popular mainstream fashion trend.
Because vintage clothing spans generations, the selection will allow
you to build a look that is unique only to you.

While vintage clothing has become a "fad" in retail stores around the
world, to find truly vintage clothing pieces, you will need to search
and review the pieces before buying them. Retailers are offering "New"
pieces that appear Vintage in a full range of clothing types. Graphic
T-shirts are the most prevalent trend offering images and icons from
several generations ago. These reproduction pieces appear Vintage, but
are new designs and production printed pieces. Be sure to search for a
reputable Vintage retailer if you are searching for authentic pieces.

Vintage clothing often offers a higher quality construction than
modern clothing. With many clothing pieces produced around the world
for lower wages today, they can sometimes display poor craftsmanship
in comparison to the hand sewn pieces of 40 years ago. The materials
that are often used in vintage pieces are of a higher quality or a
richer fabric. On screen printed vintage clothing, you will also find
that they can be hand done versus machine run.

Some Vintage clothing can even be considered collectors quality. As
the term Vintage can refer to old styles, you can find pieces from the
late 1800's or early 1900's that are of interest to people around the
world. Some movie sets or production studios search for vintage pieces
to create authenticity for the period within their movie. Some common
Vintage pieces that people collect are hats, shoes, dresses and coats.
Many people even have family heirloom pieces such as uniforms from
previous wars or wedding dresses that they maintain in excellent
condition for future family generations. You will even find Vintage
clothing pieces within museums, many of which have been restored or
preserved. Rarity is what causes a Vintage item to become truly
valuable.

Vintage clothing has made a major comeback over the past few years in
every country around the world. If there is something that you are
searching for, it is likely that there is a seller somewhere around
the world offering that exact item.
 
On Saturday 26 April 2008 04:25, bz wrote:

Also, the comment about letting it sit for 10 minutes so all the capacitors
will be discharged is good, assuming that there are no open bleeder
resistors, etc. But, it might NOT be good to 'bet your life' on the
bleeders doing their job. Occasionally, they do open, so your caution to
treat them as if they might be 'live' is a good one for those that want a
long life.
OK, but since I will need to solder and/or refit plugs, I can't consider it to
be 'live' at all time. Will it be sufficient to measure the voltage between
the RGB line wires, for example, and ground, to give me an idea of whether
it's safe?
 
I have a pioneer sx-727 receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently the radio stopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally the radio will spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.
 
Breguet Watches Breitling Watches Bvlgari Watches Cartier Watches
...
From: handbags <service0007@watchec.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 09:11:18 -0700 (PDT)
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Heuer Watches Tudor Watches Vacheron Constantin Watches Zenith
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Their Rettangolo watch speaks for itself. With influence from the
nineteen-thirties, this watch mixes contemporary design with geometric
lines and shapes. Like the other watches in the line, you have the
option of choosing the case material, steel, yellow gold or white
gold. What set=92s this watch apart from the rest however, is the
rectangular shape of the case, as well as the unique geometric design
of the dial. If you are looking for something with a bit of history
behind the design, the Rettangolo is the watch for you.
 
Don Kelly wrote:
----------------------------
"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:89RQj.52246$r76.50400@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
Jamie wrote:
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:

On Apr 26, 6:14 pm, Jamie
jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:

Deodiaus wrote:

I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?
are you sure it isn't 208 ?

--http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

I'd be suspicious that the 280V was a misreading somehow of 230V.
that sounds more plausible.

I'm a little confused about a 230 volt circuit. In what part of the world
does the utility supply 230v?

jak
-----
Depending on the age of the motor it could be rated 230V which now has crept
up to 240V just as once we had 110V, then 115V then 120V as nominal
voltages -(except for the radio people who settled on 117V and assumed that
that was what you got.).

Here in New Zealand, the mains voltage is 230 volts, likewise Australia.
 
On Apr 26, 9:59 am, tx7...@yahoo.com wrote:
I have a pioneer sx-727 receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently the radio stopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM  no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally the radio will spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.
I worked on a bunch of these in a previous life.

It has been a long time, but I seem to remember a common problem of a
voltage regulator in the power supply section becoming thermally/
mechanically/whateverly intermittent. If the entire tuner section is
going dead, this might be worth looking for. Seems a reasonable
candidate if the tuner works occasionally as you stated.

Look for a 3-pin voltage regulator in a TO-220 case - might not even
be on a heatsink. Try tapping it with something non-conductive, or
heating it, or freezing it, or, you might actually measure its output
voltage. Worth a quick look, I suppose.
 
consensual pedophilia is not harmful

check out these sources

The Rind Report by 2 Temple University psychology professors.

The book, Harmful to Minors, by journalist Judith Levine

The work of anthropologist Gilbert Herdt on the sambia people

The Kinsey Report

The Gay Report

Your own common sense

Dont support the persecution of innocent people
 
In message <FrvPj.60046$Er2.9518@bignews6.bellsouth.net>, jakdedert
<jakdedert@bellsouth.net> writes

Aren't we talking about a plastic 'tit' less than a millimeter long?
Nope. I've got a 602Z (working OK). I checked its functionality -- when
it is powered up, opening the door at the right-hand-side that covers
the slots for the CF card and the SM card causes the camera to retract
its lens and shut down. This is to prevent someone from trying to swap
out the CF/SM card while it is powered up. This feature is actually
mentioned on page 14 of the camera's manual (see below for details).

There's a plastic peg about 10mm long fixed near the bottom of the door
pointing inwards. As the door closes, the tip of this peg goes into a
square hole in the body. At the bottom of that hole is a detector push
switch that tells the camera whether the door is open or not.

It's possible the peg's tip has got worn or broken and doesn't reach
down into the hole as far as it should. The other alternative is that
the switch is intermittent and a slight jolt is enough to set it off and
cause the camera to power down.

Here's a link to a scan of the manual page dealing with this switch.
I've highlighted the peg location and switch hole on the door diagram to
help you locate them.

http://tinyurl.com/59e8hr

A couple of suggestions -- cut some very small pieces of adhesive tape
and put them into the switch hole to pad it out, and see if that will
make the problem go away. Check the condition of the peg I mentioned and
see if it's as long as I mentioned (10mm). If it's not, or it looks worn
or broken then try adding a little epoxy to it and file it down till
it's the right size.

If that doesn't help then it's probably a switch fault and it may
require more effort to repair, although spraying some switch cleaner
into the hole might help, or blowing it out with canned air. Good luck!
--
To reply, my gmail address is nojay1 Robert Sneddon
 
On Sunday 27 April 2008 20:52, James Sweet wrote:

Don't be so quick to condemn the CRT, sure it could be at fault, but
eliminate the external stuff first! A bad connection on the neck board can
just as easily cause the same symptom.
But won't a bad connection give me a black screen, because when the cathode is
disconnected from it's line, no current can flow. How can the blue cathode be
shorted to ground on the neck board? I can't see anything (obvious) on the
board that could cause a short.

BTW, I thought the RGB guns had separate line wires, but besides the focus and
grid voltage wires, only one extra thick wire runs to the neck board. That has
to be the cathode line voltage, right? And if so, doesn't that mean that when
it's shorted to ground, all the guns are fully turned on, and not just the
blue one (as is the case here)?
 
On Sunday 27 April 2008 15:14, bz wrote:

If you are SURE that no vibrations from your tapping traveled elsewhere,
that is a strong clue.
Otherwise it can be a misleading clue.

I have played the 'taps' game and won. I have played it and lost.
It is best when you can make smaller and smaller taps while getting closer
and closer to the problem.

If the tap will only occasionally trigger/fix the problem, then it is easy
to be misled.
I know what you mean. Just yesterday, I had another CRT open, which often has
one or more of it's colors failing. You can fix it by smashing it, but when I
had it open, I could fix it by very gently touching the neck board. In that
case, it was clear where the fault was. In the case with this Eizo, I can tap
the neck board a lot harder without it doing anything, so you're right in that
it could very well be something else.

When I had a TV repair shop, in the early 70's, we had a tester for picture
tubes.
It had a short indicator and a 'remove short' button that discharged a
capacitor through the short.
Sometimes it would fix things. Sometimes it would make things worse.
I assume that would connect between chassis ground and cathode? As I mentioned
in my other post, I thought there were three line wires, but I can only
discern one; is that the one?

And the cathode line capacitor BTW, where is that likely to be located? Near
the flyback on the mainboard?

Good luck with your experiment. Hopefully, it won't drop something into the
center of the shadow mask.
Aperture grill mask, actually :)

Be aware that with 15 lb of air pressing on each square inch of the CRT,
you are playing with a live bomb.

I once took a picture tube out, laid it on its faceplate, got about 50 feet
away and tossed rocks at it.

Woomp. Dust and dirt and glass flew everywhere.

Chunks of the face plate (glass about 1 1/2 inches thick) landed about 50
feet BEHIND me.

Now, I would want a thick sheet of lexan between me and any CRT that I was
tapping upon, and safety goggles, gloves.
I was very careful, because I really didn't want to break anything. But anyway,
I wasn't able to fix the problem. I'm looking at the screen right now, and as
I'm typing this, it just flashed again. I don't know if I can or should tap
harder, but I wouldn't feel too comfortable trying it.

It's really annoying that I can't reproduce the fault reliably... Even if it is
a short between the blue gun and ground, I couldn't even short it out with a
cap, because the problem only every occurs for a fraction of second, very
sporadically...
 
On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 13:22:02 -0400, "Charlie Bress"
<left@thirdbase.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately he is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.
Use a multimeter to monitor the PS_ON pin (pin 14, green) in the ATX
PS connector. It should go low when you press the front panel power
switch. The +5VSB pin (pin 9, purple) should measure +5V.

See http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml

If PS_ON doesn't go low, then something is wrong with the motherboard.
In this case it won't be the CPU or the RAM because neither are
powered in standby mode.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
On Sunday 27 April 2008 23:47, James Sweet wrote:

It appears you need to look at the schematic for a CRT monitor or TV to get
a better understanding of how this works. A disconnected cathode will float,
you have to pull it down towards ground to turn it on. The transistors
driving the cathodes isolate them from one another.


It depends on where the bad connection is, and the design of the cathode
driver circuits. It's also possible for one of the driver transistors to
have an intermittant short. I would desolder the blue cathode pin on the CRT
socket and tap the neck with the monitor on. If you can still repro the
symptoms, then the problem is probably in the tube.
I agree that I need to see schematics, or other sorts of documentation. As I
stated earlier, I'm reasonably well versed in audio electronics (built a HiFi
system from scratch), but CRTs are uncharted waters for me.

Anyway, about reproducing. I haven't been able to consistenty reproduce it.
Only about two maybe three times did the image seem to respond to me tapping
the neckboard or neck. Not enough to be sure.

And about disconnecting a gun; is that safe for the CRT? The repair FAQ warns
against running the CRT without the neckboard connected. Is having the other
guns connected enough protection against unintentional discharge, through the
glass or whatever?
 
On Sunday 27 April 2008 23:23, bz wrote:

Another feature was a three cathode single electron gun arrangement, in
contrast to the then-dominant (and still common) three gun arrangement.
Single gun systems tend to be easier to manufacture reliably, simplify beam
focus and control, and are less prone to inter-electrode short circuits.
[unquote]
Ah, that explains it.

And the cathode line capacitor BTW, where is that likely to be located?
Near the flyback on the mainboard?

Sorry, no idea. But I think you are mistaking which capacitor is going to
be used to clear the short.
The question about the line capacitor was unrelated. It had to do with another
minor issue of this monitor (it slightly getting brighter over time, ever
since I got it), of which was suggested it could be this cap which was
degrading. While we were on the subject, I just thought I'd ask.
 
In article <icGdneEbWMyC2InVnZ2dnUVZ_vCdnZ2d@comcast.com>, Mikek400
@remthis.comcast.net says...
"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:puidnUXeRNor0I_VnZ2dnUVZ_judnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Tim" <tim@tim.tim> wrote in message
news:MPG.227bfabd7a5f7379896f4@news.aliant.net...
In article <2FoQj.7$1m3.5@trndny02>, jamessweet@hotmail.com says...


"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:LaWdnZ7oG-3cjo_VnZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com...
My son has an E-Machine T3828 that will not power up. Unfortunately
he is
around 100 miles away so I do not have more information. There were no
changes made to the PC that might have caused this.
At first glance it is easy to blame the P/S itself, but a new
replacement
did not help.

A detail: He reports that with either supply there is a single LED on
the
M/B that lights up. What controls this light?
On either P/S there is no other sign of life. No fans turn on.

What are the likely causes?

I have considered some. The power switch may have failed. Or the
mechanical
link from the front panel to the switch.

IIRC there is a pin on the M/B-P/S connector that provides an input to
the
supply so that the supply turns on.. Is that a set level? What
controls
it?

I am considering having him drive down with it. I can repair
electronic
devices, but I have never come across this situation.

Is there a likelihood that the fault is in the M/B?


Thanks,

Charlie



The light is simply wired to the standby output of the PSU.

I've seen bad motherboards cause this, could also be the power button or
the
wiring between that and the motherboard. The other time I saw this the
graphics card was not fully inserted in the slot.



I have seen that symptom caused by bad RAM, overclocking the CPU,
corrupt BIOS. Sometimes a bad PSU will pop the MB's regulation system
too. You will find that most E-machines are considered disposable due to
the their low cost. Make sure the replacement PSU is pin compatible with
the old one. Just because the connectors are the same, doesn't mean the
the pins are carrying the same voltages.

I would remove all cards (not RAM) so the system is bare bones, and see
if it generates a no video card error. At least you know the system is
doing POST (Pre Operating System Tests) at that point. You can also try
to move the RAM to a different slot, as failure with ram in the first 64
megs or so will cause the system to refuse to do POST. Sometimes moving
it will clean flaky contacts. The ram should run in any slot, providing
it meets the specs for that slot. Some MBs have 2 different kinds of
slots on the same board. Of course if the ram is bad, then it may not
boot at all.

I had one guy complain that the system he built would come on then
immediately go off, so it *had* to be defective cpu or the like. It
turned out that he had not mounted the CPU heatsink and fan properly,
and it was up on one side. The cpu heated up very quickly, and shut the
system down to protect itself. Gotta love those AMD CPU safeguards. Once
the problem was rectified, the computer ran like a charm, and he is
still using it today.

- Tim -

Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

BTW when I was growing up with the PC-AT, POST was Power On Self Test.

Charlie


To the best of my knowledge it is still Power On Self Test.

Mike
To avoid any more remarks, let me say that I looked up POST in my Winn
Rosch Hardware Manual, (circa 1989), which was a key reference book for
many techs. It states that the term POST is indeed "Power On Self Test".

My POST description came from years of talking to newbies about when the
system checked it's status. They could not comprehend that it happened
right after the power on, but they could understand that it happened
before the operating system loaded, hence the phrase "Pre Operating
System Test".

I guess I just got too used to using it.

- Tim -
 
On Monday 28 April 2008 01:07, bz wrote:
The question about the line capacitor was unrelated. It had to do with
another minor issue of this monitor (it slightly getting brighter over
time, ever since I got it), of which was suggested it could be this cap
which was degrading. While we were on the subject, I just thought I'd
ask.

Ah. I see.

I would expect a cathode bypass cap to be near the cathode.
On the other hand a cap involved in driving a cathode with a signal might
be near the video output. Sorry I can't help more.

I remember quite a long discussion somewhere about 'monitor too bright',
google may find it for you.

If I remember correctly, it was a panasonic monitor being discussed and two
fixes were mentioned. One involved going through the setup menu and the
other putting a resistor in parallel with another resisitor.
This may or may not be of any help to you.
You were also involved in the discussion about my monitor getting brighter.
But, it's no issue at all. A while ago, I turned down the G2 voltage and ran
the automatic color calibration and everything was perfect again. Except for
this intermittant fault issue, that is.

I suppose it's got nothing to do with it, but still I think it's best to ask
whether turning down the G2 voltage could have induced the failure I'm dealing
with now? I turned it down only a very tiny bit. So little that it was hard to
make such a subtle adjustment.
 
N_Cook wrote:

http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/sf2.jpg
No markings, a black potted box 7x7x 15mm external dimensions.
If a stepup transformer , why so small?
As per the other poster, it's likely the trigger transformer.
They're usually quite small, as they have few primary turns, lots of
secondary, and since the wire is quite thin (impedance isn't a problem as they
don't supply any appreciable current), they end up quite small.
--
Linux Registered User # 302622
<http://counter.li.org>
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140228196941&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=004
 
Thanks to all who replied about the solar cell (photovoltaic)
landscape light mod.

The reason I'm wanting to try the solar powered lights is my wifes
garden is continuously changing during the season as plants grow. The
low voltage spotlights we currently use are not easy to relocate to
accommodate the ever changing landscape. You just can't run wiring to
fit all the possible growth scenarios. Portable solar lighting
(although it has maintenance issues) seemed like a possible solution.

I realize that the typical solar powered lights are basically useless
for highlighting plants and other garden features but now I see these
lights advertised with high intensity LEDs and I wonder if they might
have adequate brightness. The problem is I can't stand the eerie
bluish tint of the so called "white" LEDs and I have yet to find any
using more incandescent looking LEDs. My thinking is to just replace
the existing LEDs with a different color, such as "warm white" ones
and maybe do a battery upgrade as well.

Someone in the forum also mentioned "natural white" LEDs and I did see
an outfit advertising lights with that color but I've yet to see a
spectrum chart that shows what color natural white really is. Is it
white like the background of these text messages or is it just another
name for the so called white LEDs?

Anyway, sorry to drag this out and your comments/suggestions were
appreciated along with any future ones.

Thanks
Rush



On Apr 11, 10:55 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
I'm wanting to install some solar powered landscape lights but I don't
like the orange colored LEDs or the bluish tint of the so called white
LEDs.

I was thinking of buying some of the solar lights advertised as super
bright white LEDs and replacing the LEDs with what are referred to as
super bright warm white LEDs. The low voltage powered lights are not
an option.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Rush

This may be a bit off topic but at least I'm not hawking Chinese made
handbags or porno videos.
 
GregS wrote:

In article <gunRj.9380$E77.5795@trnddc05>, "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:


"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:fv4nmp$55n$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...

Working on a DLP projector, no light. I don't measure any voltage
going to a lamp socket with lamp disconected. I looked for both AC and
DC.
Looks like there is a ahole board for the supply with OSRAM parts.
Anything else to check ?

greg

You could find the signal line that triggers the lamp driver to turn the
lamp on and make sure it's changing states when the lamp should light.

Be *very* careful probing the lamp sockets on these, a properly working
driver will supply pulses of several kilovolts to ignite the arc in the
lamp. You can easily fry your meter, or worse.

The drivers are essentially switchmode power supplies configured to supply a
constant current rather than a constant voltage. Standard SMPS
troubleshooting applies, taking into account the greater than usual high
voltage hazard.


I used an old analog meter. There is a LED lamp on indicatior on the top of
the unit, and it does go on. Evn if I just had a bad lamp, I would imagine there would
still be a clicking or visable arc around the lamp. $435 for a new lamp, wow.

greg
Ha, Sounds like you have an RCA 61 inch? , that is what my DLP is. and
it cost that much for a replacement lamp assembly..
Your problem sounds like a ballast/driver problem.


--
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
 
On Monday 28 April 2008 19:00, James Sweet wrote:

Yep, sounds like it really is the tube. If it's a heater-cathode short, you
could isolate the heater, powering it with 2 or 3 turns of wire around the
flyback core. Careful not to overdo it, it really only takes a couple of
turns on these high frequency transformers.
Indeed, I read about that. The downside is, that image quality will suffer,
because the cathode will/can be in contact with those wires, which have stray
capacitance, and noise pickup, etc.

Additionally, I don't know if the Trinitrons feature of automatic color
calibration touches the filament current, but if so, that will render that
feature useless, and it's a feature I love about this monitor. Do you know if
it does so?

But I will try the shake/tap method a bit more first. The short is every so
slight, that even after 20 seconds of warming up, the fault is almost
completely gone and hardly reproduceable. I wonder if it also does it when
it's upside-down...
 

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