Kemet mil-spec cap ???

Try to look at DATEL.com

On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 11:54:56 +0100, Meindert Sprang
<mhsprang@NOcustomSPAMware.nl> wrote:

Hi all,

My application needs a double DC/DC converter, 5V in, dual isolated 5V
out,
1W. The NMD050505S from C7D Technologies is very suitable but I want to
go
one step further: my application would still need a voltage regulator
before
the DC/DC converter to accomodate input voltages from 8-30V. What I would
like is a DC/DC converter that accepts 8-30V input and produces dual
isolated 5V. Any pointers?

Meindert


--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
 
I bought a cheap programmer from this site last year. I found it worked very
well.
It was 50$ Canadian.

http://www.geocities.com/hughesinnovations/urp.html

Jason.


"Geoff Winkless" <geoff-at-farmline-dot-com@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
news:404d8faa$0$22391$ed9e5944@reading.news.pipex.net...
127.0.0.1 wrote:
X-No-Archive: yes

Im looking for a cheap programmer to program the 29F020 flash eproms
- in the UK.

Does anyone know of any ?

I'm in the same boat - trying to program a 29F040 (actually the Syncmos
equivalent)

Check out willem.org for a cheap-and-cheerful hobbyist solution (they'll
also send you a built-and-tested one, works out about 56UKP delivered, I
believe, depending on the exchange rate)

Otherwise farnell sell the Leaper PC-based programmer for about 110UKP
(inc
vat), and Maplin sell the ART EPP3 for 150UKP.

Hope this helps

Geoff
 
In fact, it's becoming much less common to find parts in commercial
equipment with only the OEM user's part number rather than the
manufacturer's PN on them. Partly this is being driven by contract
manufacturing of the boards, but it was a trend even before CM became
so common, in my experience.

Roy's comments about military techs are slightly idealistic, if I
relate things to my personal experience some years ago. My shop
supervisor at a remote site quickly learned to trust my judgement in
finding ways to get things repaired and functioning reliably when
parts simply weren't available. When it comes to a decision between
completing a critical mission using a part that gets you through the
mission, and waiting six months for a part, guess which wins. You can
find info about some of that sort of thing on the NASA web site.
Astronauts don't wait for delivery of XPQ1453762 if their lives (or
even an expensive experiment) can be saved by using something on hand.
Clearly, you'd prefer to use the exact part specified, or a
documented replacement, but there are lots of times when waiting for
that would be very poor judgement. (Darwin award candidates??)

OTOH, do NOT expect modern parts to be fully labeled. Don't expect
0.1% SMT resistors to have anything on them telling you that they are
0.1%. Don't expect 0603 and smaller resistors and capacitors to have
ANY marking, though some do. Don't expect SOT-23 and SC-70 parts to
have anything but a simple 2 or 3 character code on them. Some
(most?) SMT tantalum cap manufacturers don't seem to put a marking on
them that tells you which series they are (std ESR, low ESR, extra-low
ESR, fused, mil-spec...).

And count your blessings that you're dealing with electronic parts,
where labelling with the value is pretty common. That's not the case
with most mechanical parts, for example. Would you expect Honda
pistons to fit any Toyota engines? Have you ever seen ANY springs
labelled with their spring constant, let alone any of their other
parameters? Most aren't even labelled with a part number.

Finally, there IS a reason that schematics don't always have values or
manufacturer's part numbers on them, or even house part numbers, but
only a reference designator. That's because values (and therefore the
part numbers) may well change over time. It's a lot easier and less
error-prone to maintain only one changing document: the material list
used to build the board. Not everyone agrees with that, and in fact I
do prefer to have values and mfgr's part numbers on my schematics.

Cheers,
Tom


Jim Adney <jadney@vwtype3.org> wrote in message news:<6bjv405i8h6a4tgsa3stfh4d49i1p9620b@4ax.com>...
On Tue, 09 Mar 2004 19:59:19 -0800 Roy Lewallen <w7el@eznec.com
wrote:

Jim Adney wrote:
. . .
So I still don't think it's too much to ask that the most important
data be printed out separately.

Obviously, I don't tend to think like the military....

While you've got a legitimate point, you've got to realize the function
of the part number. If you're a technician servicing a piece of military
gear, you replace a 20035942 *ONLY* with a 20035942, not *ANY* other
capacitor, regardless of its value. To order a replacement, you put in a
requisition for a 20035942. Now, it's vital to you that the capacitors
in the stock bin or coming in from the supply system have 20035942
printed on them, but it's not important that the value is. The
technician can find the value in the parts list in the manual and likely
on the schematic.

If I'm that tech, how do I correlate that p/n with this cap on the
schematic? Does the schematic have both the value AND the p/n on it?

I understand your point about using the exact replacement, but I don't
see why a part should not have BOTH sets of data. To me, that seems
like it adds a lot of value to the part.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 00:43:21 -0800 Roy Lewallen <w7el@eznec.com>
wrote:

Yep, stamping the value on the capacitor would undoubtedly add value to
the part for you and me. But again, the military just wasn't thinking of
us when it set up its stock system.
I was thinking of the value it would have to the tech, in helping him
to make sure that the part he was looking at on the schematic and the
part that he was replacing in the circuit were the same item.

If he has to trace the item from the schematic (C437) to the parts
list (M390009/xxxx) to the chassis (M390009/xxxx) that's an extra step
where time is wasted and a mistake could be made. Both would be
counterproductive, in any environment.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
 
"kelvin" <kelvin@techwaytechnology.com> wrote in message
news:c2r7mf$svp937@imsp212.netvigator.com...
Does anybody know what is this? Where to buy and how much?
Yes. It's a sign that you don't spend enough time on this newsgroup to
realize that it's bad form to post binaries; many news providers won't even
support the attachment, so a lot of readers of this group won't have a clue
what you're talking about.

That said: it's a fuse. 3.15A 63V slow blow. Try Mouser, Digikey, Allied,
.....
 
"Carsten Poulsen" <cp@wpi.dk> wrote in message
news:eek:pr4pj090ez7d4nl@nntp.wpi.edu...
Try to look at DATEL.com
Thanks for the suggestion, but they are waaay too big, (only need 1Watt) and
cost more than the entire product I need to isolate.

Meindert
 
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote:

My Moto Manual says the 1N485B has a PRV of 180V, a Vf of 1.0V max at
100 mA, and a Ir of 25 nA. This is a bit heftier than the usual 1N4148
signal diode. What's a more current up-to-date substitute for this?
BAV20 or 21 just like Phil says.

Graham
 
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 16:41:19 -0800, "Watson A.Name \"Watt Sun - the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote:
Didja see the segment on TV about that original ELvis master
reel-to-reel tape recording made back in the early fifties, and they're
cutting it up into 2 inch pieces and selling them on Ebay? Weird!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3801570110&category=2012
I checked: it isn't sold! Good thing too. I hate that: people who have
read all those books about getting rich on ebay buy things and sell
the separate parts. Like an oscilloscope, and the manual separate. So
you will offer high on the manual (and they have an alternative name
biddignagainst you to drive up the prices). I hate that.

Pieter
 
"Pooh Bear" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4052FF52.B13B0760@hotmail.com...
"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\"" wrote:

My Moto Manual says the 1N485B has a PRV of 180V, a Vf of 1.0V max
at
100 mA, and a Ir of 25 nA. This is a bit heftier than the usual
1N4148
signal diode. What's a more current up-to-date substitute for this?

BAV20 or 21 just like Phil says.

Graham
Thanks, guys. Hey, what surprises me is that Fairchild still sells the
1N485B, in addirion to the BAV20, which I hadn't heard of. Sonofagun,
only three bucks a hundred for either one at Mouser.
 
Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com> wrote in message news:<404D5089.8050503@pico-systems.com>...
DarkMatter wrote:
On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 12:15:28 -0800, "Watson A.Name \"Watt Sun - the
Dark Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> Gave us:


This one should be interesting, mainly because Andrew Wylie has bid on
them, and he's an avid collector of old transistors. Film at 11...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2229117862&category=132


I wouldn't call 1975 rare or vintage. The first two were made in
the last two weeks of '75.

Nope, I think they are from 1956-1957, if you read the date code
differently. Was CBS making transistors in 1975? I seriously
doubt it. These were probably used in ICBM guidance systems or
support equipment. Only the exotic military projects could afford
transistors in 1956.
LOL!!!! "As used on Minuteman nuclear missiles- where it absolutely,
positively, has to hit within 100 yards of the target, guaranteed."

;-)

-A

 
Frank Miles wrote:
In article <MPG.1a79a982cc75a507989c17@192.168.42.131>,
Dr. Anton.T. Squeegee <SpammersArePondScum@dev.null> wrote:
In article <100u2kvskpbroc8@corp.supernews.com>, wd5jfr@oklahoma.net
says...

snippety

from my personal stuff purchased new. One example is a MGA Mitsubishi rear
projection TV that operated flawlessly for nearly 20 years of daily use.
Most of my test equipment comes from hamfests and is surplus after becoming
obsolete and non-operative in less than 20 years. That leads me to wonder
what the real story is behind tantalum capacitors. What do the experts have
to say?

The ONLY problems I've ever had with tantalums are where:

(1) The part was defective from the manufacturer.

(2) The voltage rating was consistently exceeded.

(3) The thing was installed backwards (reverse polarity).

I have no less than five Tektronix O-scopes here, all vintage
late-70's to mid-80's. This means not one of them is less than 20 years
old. They all use lots of tantalums, and they all work great, but then
again Tek was (in those days) proud of what they put out, and was most
definitely engineer-driven (which means at least a 20% 'fudge factor'
built into everything they made).

Tantalum caps are very stable and durable, but they are much more
costly than aluminum types. In consumer electronics, the manufacturers
will try to shave every penny they can off the cost of the design, often
contrary to good common (engineering) sense.

Such considerations are (usually) not so critical when it comes to
non-consumer stuff.

Tektronix was, during that time, strongly discouraging all new designs from
using tantalums. IIRC they had been taken to court over a case in which
a 465 'scope (the original, not the plastic follow-ons) had spontaneously
ignited and had resulted in an expensive fire. Forensics revealed that
a tantalum power-supply bypass cap had started the conflagration. The
drive to reduce tantalum usage was driven primarily by this liability issue,
more than component cost. If you wanted to use a tantalum, you had to
justify its usage to the component/design review committees -- which wasn't
difficult if you had good reasons and your design was solid.
Ah ha! I have a 465 (w/DM44) that I purchased in 1978 for personal use
(no commercial abuse). Shortly after the warranty expired, it would not
power up.
I traced the problem to a shorted tantalum filter cap on the +15 volt
line.
But of course, it wasn't in the power supply, but rather on one of the
boards.
Pain to get to, IIRC.

BTW, I did not get option 5 (TV sync separator). I wonder if it is
feasable to
install it myself? Documentation is listed as 465 option 5 supplement
070-2191-00.
Anyone have this info?

--
Jerry wa2rkn no email @ present
 
John Erlend Finnekĺsa wrote:

$23 each is cheap compared to US-bid for instance. They offer them at $75 EACH.
Beat that

JEF

John Erlend Finnekĺsa wrote:


I know. But you can't buy them directly from the manufacturer as an
"hobbyist". I need to buy through a so called local dealer.

JEF

Ricardo Matos Abreu wrote:


Texas Instruments
Averlogic
IDT

All these companies have lots of caompatible (or almost compatible) FIFO's.

Ricardo

"John Erlend Finnekĺsa" <john-ef@online.no> wrote in message
news:3F076F4A.4208F002@online.no...

Hello!

I'm looking for FIFO buffers in 16k x 9 organization.
The buffers are described as IDT7206-15 (IDT) or CY7C462-15 (Cypress).
The number after the hyphen tells about the access time. The buffers I
need must have an accesstime in 15ns or less.
Does anybody knows where to retrieve theese (need 8 pcs.) or possible
replacements?

The accesstime is critical since they are working as inputbuffers in a
logic analyzer.

best regards
John E.



Every time I try USBid, they suck. Their prices are so high, they will
just sit on that inventory forever...
 
Helinda Nominanda wrote:

Howdy,

I'm looking for this selector HP 16054A. Agilent discontinued the
product on 2000.
The description is in here {
http://people.tamu.edu/~h0n1030/hp16054A.JPG }. Does anyone know
surplus or electronics store that might have this kind of stuff? Is
there any alternative for this selector model application?

Thanks,
Helinda Nominanda
Check ebay from time to time
 
Jerry Koniecki <NOspam@my.mailbox> wrote:

Frank Miles wrote:

Tektronix was, during that time, strongly discouraging all new designs from
using tantalums. IIRC they had been taken to court over a case in which
a 465 'scope (the original, not the plastic follow-ons) had spontaneously
ignited and had resulted in an expensive fire. Forensics revealed that
a tantalum power-supply bypass cap had started the conflagration. The
drive to reduce tantalum usage was driven primarily by this liability issue,
more than component cost. If you wanted to use a tantalum, you had to
justify its usage to the component/design review committees -- which wasn't
difficult if you had good reasons and your design was solid.

Ah ha! I have a 465 (w/DM44) that I purchased in 1978 for personal use
(no commercial abuse). Shortly after the warranty expired, it would not
power up.
I traced the problem to a shorted tantalum filter cap on the +15 volt
line.
But of course, it wasn't in the power supply, but rather on one of the
boards.
Pain to get to, IIRC.
I can imagine. Tantalum caps are a real pain in the ass. If you
reverse the polarity, they burn right through the PCB after a few
months! We got a board in for repair last week with that problem.
Luckily, everything on the board (yes, even the stickers with the
serial numbers) is self extinguising.

--
Reply to nico@nctdevpuntnl (punt=.)
Bedrijven en winkels vindt U op www.adresboekje.nl
 
Mr. Phil wrote:

A friend of mine and I are studying up on microprocessor interfacing and are
teaching ourselves about the Z80. We wired up the processor to an 8k static
RAM (6264), and 8k EPROM (2764), and we also have an 8255 for I/O. We have
but one problem,... we don't have an EPROM programmer!

Does anyone out there have a broken one (I can try to repair it) that
they're getting rid of? I can cover the shipping. We're trying to go as
inexpensive as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

-Phil

P.S. - Please send me an e-mail at draeyoc1@aol.com . Thanks!



Go buy one from ebay. They are SO CHEAP now, your time is so much more
valuable.
 
Walter Harley wrote:

"Joel de Guzman" <joel@boost-consulting.com> wrote in message
news:bsliab$e10f7$1@ID-58159.news.uni-berlin.de...

Hi,

Would anyone know where I can buy motorized faders?
The one used in digital mixers?



I seem to recall Mouser having some. I know they've got motorized pots.
You can look at Panasonic, Penny & Giles, etc. Digikey has 1 I think.
The P&G are VERY expensive.

Tony
 
b.a. marcus wrote:

wouter@voti.nl (Wouter van Ooijen (www.voti.nl)) wrote in message news:<3ff3c947.1463779633@news.xs4all.nl>...

It really isn't very important which architecture the OP learns,
though. As a practical matter, he will need to learn multiple
architectures in an embedded career.

Agreed for a career, but I did not get the impression that the OP
wanted a career, just something to start with at home.


Wouter van Ooijen

-- ------------------------------------
http://www.voti.nl
PICmicro chips, programmers, consulting


Ive decided to try the AVR route. Thanx for the info Jay.
Jay was very persuasive but I think what sold me was AVR's other
chips. I like the idea of building an MP3 player for my old rusty
truck.

Most of all I was interested in a platform for building my cat5 cable
tester. But I'm not sure that even AVR can do what I wanted to do with
it though I need to do more research on the project.

I was also interested in a TCP/IP project. You guys have proabably
seen the Tiny Web Server project.

A career would be nice but it's my understanding that those companies
like to hire young colledge grads. I pitty those guys. No, this is
just a hobby for me. I hope it keeps my mind young and active. I may
not be as old as a lot of you but I need to do something with
retirement coming up in 10 or 15 years.

Thanx to all of you for your input. I appreciate it very much.
There is a good user community on AVRFreaks.com.

Tony K
 
Krash wrote:

Is there an equivelent of the LM3914N LED bargraph IC?

Not sure but if you need LED bargraphs, check out

http://parts.encoreelectronics.com/ledbar.jpg
 
Mark (UK) wrote:

Hiya!

Well I won 37lbs of them on eBay for $5.00, but the DICKHEAD didn't want
to sell them probably because he put the start price too low.

They're on eBay, and cheap. I paid $22.00 for 210 2708s recently, and I
thought those would be more in demand.

Yours, Mark.

Mark DiLuciano wrote:

I am looking to buy large quantities of 2732 and 2764
EPROMs. I am looking for new, but will accept pulls
if they are very clean and the price is right.

Email me if you have something you would like to sell.

Mark



Did he back out of the auction or did he finally sell them to you? I'd
give him very negative feedback if he backed out.
 
Sam Jacobson wrote:

Hello all,

I recently acquired an Ungar 4024 solder/desolder station, however,
I have been unable to locate an operation/repair manual for the unit.
As such I was wondering if anyone had one for sale?

Thanks!

Sam

Here's a little info:

http://www.arcade-electronics.com/cooper/ung0004.JPG
 

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