JVC TV model AV-31BM6 shuts off

L

Lenny

Guest
The customer was complaining that the set would shut off after being
on for varying amounts of time. If he waited about a half hour he
would be able to turn it back on again.
The first thing I did before I even attempted to power it up was to go
over all suspicious soldering. I then powered it up and it ran for
about 30 minutes before it shut itself off. I felt the heat sinks,
flyback and the electrolytics on the board and nothing seemed to have
been running especially hot. I have had it off for almost an hour and
now all it does is click. I don't think its related to anything I
resoldered but I'm just wondering if anyone might have a clue as to
what the original problem may have been and if perhaps its related to
this new one. Or maybe I now have two problems? I have no schematic
so thanks for any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
 
Check the caps in the standby power supply circuits. JVC has had an issue
with a few of them failing causing all types of intermitnt power problems.
Pay attention to the temperature ratings if you replace them.
"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0405190923.7d0c8139@posting.google.com...
The customer was complaining that the set would shut off after being
on for varying amounts of time. If he waited about a half hour he
would be able to turn it back on again.
The first thing I did before I even attempted to power it up was to go
over all suspicious soldering. I then powered it up and it ran for
about 30 minutes before it shut itself off. I felt the heat sinks,
flyback and the electrolytics on the board and nothing seemed to have
been running especially hot. I have had it off for almost an hour and
now all it does is click. I don't think its related to anything I
resoldered but I'm just wondering if anyone might have a clue as to
what the original problem may have been and if perhaps its related to
this new one. Or maybe I now have two problems? I have no schematic
so thanks for any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
 
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny) wrote in message news:<d980bc2c.0405190923.7d0c8139@posting.google.com>...
The customer was complaining that the set would shut off after being
on for varying amounts of time. If he waited about a half hour he
would be able to turn it back on again.
The first thing I did before I even attempted to power it up was to go
over all suspicious soldering. I then powered it up and it ran for
about 30 minutes before it shut itself off. I felt the heat sinks,
flyback and the electrolytics on the board and nothing seemed to have
been running especially hot. I have had it off for almost an hour and
now all it does is click. I don't think its related to anything I
resoldered but I'm just wondering if anyone might have a clue as to
what the original problem may have been and if perhaps its related to
this new one. Or maybe I now have two problems? I have no schematic
so thanks for any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics
replaced shorted diod D501 RH3G sub BY228 NTE 5846
danny
DSElectronics.com
 
It appears to have been a flaky solder job on the relay, which I can't
beieve I missed initially. Thanks to everyone for all your replies.
Lenny.
danny@dselectronics.com (Danny) wrote in message news:<7543a1f7.0405201011.fa28989@posting.google.com>...
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny) wrote in message news:<d980bc2c.0405190923.7d0c8139@posting.google.com>...
The customer was complaining that the set would shut off after being
on for varying amounts of time. If he waited about a half hour he
would be able to turn it back on again.
The first thing I did before I even attempted to power it up was to go
over all suspicious soldering. I then powered it up and it ran for
about 30 minutes before it shut itself off. I felt the heat sinks,
flyback and the electrolytics on the board and nothing seemed to have
been running especially hot. I have had it off for almost an hour and
now all it does is click. I don't think its related to anything I
resoldered but I'm just wondering if anyone might have a clue as to
what the original problem may have been and if perhaps its related to
this new one. Or maybe I now have two problems? I have no schematic
so thanks for any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics

replaced shorted diod D501 RH3G sub BY228 NTE 5846
danny
DSElectronics.com
 
Good troubleshooting Len!! Congrats A/J
"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0405210650.5236d307@posting.google.com...
It appears to have been a flaky solder job on the relay, which I can't
beieve I missed initially. Thanks to everyone for all your replies.
Lenny.
danny@dselectronics.com (Danny) wrote in message
news:<7543a1f7.0405201011.fa28989@posting.google.com>...
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny) wrote in message
news:<d980bc2c.0405190923.7d0c8139@posting.google.com>...
The customer was complaining that the set would shut off after being
on for varying amounts of time. If he waited about a half hour he
would be able to turn it back on again.
The first thing I did before I even attempted to power it up was to go
over all suspicious soldering. I then powered it up and it ran for
about 30 minutes before it shut itself off. I felt the heat sinks,
flyback and the electrolytics on the board and nothing seemed to have
been running especially hot. I have had it off for almost an hour and
now all it does is click. I don't think its related to anything I
resoldered but I'm just wondering if anyone might have a clue as to
what the original problem may have been and if perhaps its related to
this new one. Or maybe I now have two problems? I have no schematic
so thanks for any assistance. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics

replaced shorted diod D501 RH3G sub BY228 NTE 5846
danny
DSElectronics.com
 

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