How to shrink heat shrink tubing?

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <slrnhugcn1.e0e.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need
to shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used
for removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I
moved here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove
lighter ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Thanks in advance,

There are custom tools for this - but tend to be expensive due to the
limited production. I use a dual heat paint stripper that came with a
variety of nozzles and shields. Check out the sheds in your area.

--
*Why do they put Braille on the drive-through bank machines?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[N_Cook]

Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnhugcn1.e0e.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the
situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the
Wikipedia.

Wrap the tip of (old) soldering iron with some plumber's PTFE tape and then
apply the iron directly to the tubing or use a replacment tip , so adapted.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <slrnhugcn1.e0e.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>,
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

We use Weller's #6966C, which is a small, lightweight gun that comes
with an assortment of heat focusing attachments. There are many, many
heat guns available in a huge array of styles and sizes, check your
solder and tools supplier's catalog.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
<gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote:

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Hot air gun with an assortment of tips and adapters. If you need to
protect other components, just block the air flow with some aluminum
foil.

However, one stupid problem. I bought two ACE Hardware hot air guns:
<http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1310859>
which work well enough. However, the power cord is VERY stiff. The
gun is quite light and the spring tension of the cord frequently
causes the gun to move when placed on the table. As the tip remains
hot for quite some time, having it move by itself around the table can
do some serious damage. I've ruined the plastic on several devices
before I was forced to build a holder (tin can screwed to a wood
board). Normally, I would normally suggest finding a hot air gun that
has a reasonably flexible power cord, but that seems to be difficult.
I've looked at various equivalent hot air guns and all seem to have
VERY stiff power cords.

High end heat guns, such as:
<http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1944LCDK>
don't have this problem, and add much better temperature control, but
cost much more than I want to spend (about $150).


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

One workable solution is to use a hair dryer, and block the inlets with a
sock. This causes the outlet temperature to rise to the "shrinking" point.
There's a catch, though... The hair dryer will "overheat" (natch -- that's
the idea) and shut off. If the dryer doesn't have a resettable fuse, you
won't be able to use the dryer again.

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit
of scrounging might turn one up.

 

[AZ Nomad]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 11:13:26 -0700, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do, the HS is defective.

 

[Rich Webb]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 11:13:26 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

I've had pretty good luck with butane lighters that are turned way down
(a mere flicker of a blue flame) *IF* they're used on fairly small
shrink tubing. Just keep the hot spot moving and pay attention to what
the tube is doing. Works great with 1/16" shrink tube for single pins
but I do imagine it could be a disaster with large diameters.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

 

[Cydrome Leader]

Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

hair dryer.

 

[Graham]

On May 10, 5:41 pm, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Geoffrey S. Mendelson <g...@cable.mendelson.com> wrote in messagenews:slrnhugcn1.e0e.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...



I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel g...@mendelson.com  N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the
situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the

Wikipedia.

Wrap the tip of (old) soldering iron with some plumber's PTFE tape and then
apply the iron directly to the tubing or use a replacment tip , so adapted.

AND RUN ...UP WIND !!!!!!

DuPont studies show that the Teflon offgases toxic particulates at
446°F. At 680°F Teflon pans release at least six toxic gases,
including two carcinogens, two global pollutants, and MFA, a chemical
lethal to humans at low doses

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

 

[Winston]

On 5/10/2010 9:24 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be
about perfect for you:

eBay 300417780799

STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN

--Winston

 

[Meat Plow]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need
to shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used
for removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I
moved here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove
lighter ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

With practice a Bic lighter does the job on small wire. Anything bigger
like the end of a cable holding lots of wires say about 3/4 in you need a
heat gun .

 

[Sjouke Burry]

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
Whatever way you heat it, use teflon shrinck tubing.

You cant increase its blackness, and it shrinks to 1/3rd dia.
And does not melt/burn until over 450 degree Celcius.

 

[Ron]

On 10/05/2010 20:35, Winston wrote:

On 5/10/2010 9:24 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and
need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding
it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be
about perfect for you:

eBay 300417780799

STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN

--Winston

That`s the one I use, no complaints. It was nowhere near that price tho!

Ron(UK)

 

[Jeffrey D Angus]

Graham wrote:

DuPont studies show that the Teflon offgases toxic particulates at
446°F. At 680°F Teflon pans release at least six toxic gases,
including two carcinogens, two global pollutants, and MFA, a chemical
lethal to humans at low doses

While I was working at TRW, we had one of our technicians
end up in the emergency room from sitting over a cable that
he was using a thermal stripper on.

"Will he be ok?"
"Only time will tell."
"Is there anything you can do for him?"
"Just keep an eye on him."

Of course, I think they should be selling Teflon lined
blunts in the liquor stores.

Jeff


--
“Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity.”
Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954

http://www.stay-connect.com

 

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

Yes, but it keeps yelling "Behold the Metatron, Behold the Metatron" and
won't help.

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

Yes, that's what I found out. Especially if you get too close. Although I used
to have a steady hand, that was a long time ago. It wiggles occasionaly, and
when it does, the flame burns the plastic. :-(

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit
of scrounging might turn one up.

I've never seen one here. Almost all of the construction is stone or concrete
and that kind of paint does not work well on it.

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia.

 

[Wild_Bill]

If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated
applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with
a very rubbery covering.

These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate
current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle
irons and similar units.
These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real
rubber, not plastic.

I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are
so stiff they keep their original bends even after use.
I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use
because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage
cord.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:mvggu5l7op05bg4upqo9c0qu56f8ugppi6@4ax.com...

Hot air gun with an assortment of tips and adapters. If you need to
protect other components, just block the air flow with some aluminum
foil.

However, one stupid problem. I bought two ACE Hardware hot air guns:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1310859
which work well enough. However, the power cord is VERY stiff. The
gun is quite light and the spring tension of the cord frequently
causes the gun to move when placed on the table. As the tip remains
hot for quite some time, having it move by itself around the table can
do some serious damage. I've ruined the plastic on several devices
before I was forced to build a holder (tin can screwed to a wood
board). Normally, I would normally suggest finding a hot air gun that
has a reasonably flexible power cord, but that seems to be difficult.
I've looked at various equivalent hot air guns and all seem to have
VERY stiff power cords.

High end heat guns, such as:
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1944LCDK
don't have this problem, and add much better temperature control, but
cost much more than I want to spend (about $150).


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Grant]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@cable.mendelson.com> wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

I use a Bosch 1500W paint stripper gun on low for the last 30 years or so

Nameplate rating says low is 320'C at 240l/m. It can be a little too hot
if one brings the heatshrink too close.

I've not had much luck with a flame, tends to scorch the heatshrink.

Grant.
--
http://bugs.id.au/

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 17:06:51 -0400, "Wild_Bill"
<wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated
applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with
a very rubbery covering.

The rubber (RHW or RHH) cords seem to work best. Unfortunately, most
cheap plastic cords have an intergrated strain relief molded into the
plastic, making replacement with a different type of cord rather
tedious.

These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate
current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle
irons and similar units.
These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real
rubber, not plastic.

Good idea. I have a roll of 3 conductor 14AWG RHW for replacing power
tool cords and extension cords. I never thought of using it for
kitchen appliances.

Ummm... why would I put something electrical in the freezer? Never
mind, I don't want to know.

I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are
so stiff they keep their original bends even after use.
I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use
because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage
cord.

Yep. Same problem. There's a customer perception that a thicker cord
somehow signifies a high power or high current device. It's common
for laser printers and copiers to arrive with huge diameter cords,
that are mostly plastic, not copper. Compared to the common power
cord of half the diameter, the wire guages inside are identical. Of
course, the added plastic makes them rigid, inflexible, difficult to
manage, and impossible to coil.

With video and USB, the problem is not the plastic but the shielding.
There's no easy way to provide superior shielding and still have a
flexible cord. Braid is more flexible than foil, but foil has better
coverage. The exception is non-wicking braid, where the plastic
jacket is molded into the braid, which can be used to hammer nails.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 10 May 2010 21:50:08 +0200, Sjouke Burry
<burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll> wrote:

Whatever way you heat it, use teflon shrinck tubing.
You cant increase its blackness, and it shrinks to 1/3rd dia.
And does not melt/burn until over 450 degree Celcius.

350C for most PTFE formulations. 450C will set paper on fire.
The shrink ratio varies from 2:1 to 4:1.

The stuff gave me problems until I finally read the instructions.
There are different types, that require different temperatures, cool
down periods, and handling:
<http://www.texloc.com/hs_home.html>
See the various "how to shrink" sections at the bottom.

However, the results are worth the effort. The PTFE tubing is far
more flexible after shrinking. With a 4:1 shrink diameter ratio, I
have few fit problems. However, I found that it becomes brittle when
overheated or cooled to quickly. Going too slowly is also a potential
fire hazard when working with flammable cables.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558