R
Robert Baer
Guest
lfo@.not wrote:
1) ALL light-emitting devices create HEAT as they are NOT 100% efficient
(this includes that nearby star that we call the sun).
2) All solid-state light emitters (incandescent, LED) work at higher
efficiency, longer life, and better color balance when the generated
heat is removed.
3) LED emitters are rather sensitive to the semiconductor temperature;
the color spectrum and lifetime being the most affected.
4) EXCESS heating of the LED die will severely shorten its lifetime and
mess up the color spectrum during use.
Remote heatsinks, like what you propose, is contrary to the
efficiency and life you seem to expect.
Take a bare die "1 watt" LED and run it - you might get in the region
of 100mW before the die gets too hot.
Put it on a heavy copper heatsink and you may get 1.5 watts of
operation before the die gets too hot.
Then mount it on a LARGE TE cooler running to get its surface towards
-20C or better; that might allow 2 watts of operation (wild guesses here).
The reflector system could be separate from the LED, but the
mechanical designs of the LED mounting, LED heatsink(s) and the
reflector(s) need careful integration (design engineering anyone?) for
the particular use in mind.
There are extremely bright LED fixtures / systems made to replace
street lights that are at least the equal to halogen fixtures (for the
same purpose).
Start with some FACTs.On Thu, 3 May 2012 02:26:10 +0100, "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
These moving heads have the reflector as part of
the fixed optics. The lamp is 'bare' and fits into a ceramic holder that is
then fixed in some way behind the reflector, such that the lamp pokes
through the centre hole in the reflector to a distance where the internal
quartz glass discharge tube sits at the focal point.
That's the idea I'd like to try. We have two Chauvet Q Spots that do something
similar with a bright white LED, though I doubt the particular LED they use
would be bright enough. It seems to be mounted directly to a heat sink if I
remember right, and if it *has* to be mounted on a heat sink that would be a big
problem. But if it could be mounted on an extending piece of metal even if it
has to be perforated or whatever, it seems it could then be put through the
reflector and positioned wherever it needs to be. It would take some thought and
work to make such an adaptor, but then the fixture would be good to go again
using a lot less power, creating a lot less heat and the resulting damage from
heat, and there would be no need to buy bulbs again instead of every six months
or so. Also fixtures wouldn't be shut down by problems with lamping on, which is
the biggest problem we have with our fixtures. From what I understand, two of
our electronic ballast Mac 500s are not worth fixing because the ballast costs
$1300+, even though the rest of both fixtures seem to be in good condition.
Something else. The Mac 101s kick ass with a nice solid beam in pretty much all
colors. Do you know what wattage LEDs they are? Someone told me 3 watt, but I
haven't been able to find where it says that specifically. Anyway, I would like
to find some LED "par can" type fixtures that put out a similar beam, and I've
seen 3 watt LED pars advertised but don't know if it would be the same or not.
The idea is that if we can get some of those, we could strip our old messed up
600s down pretty much to the frame and mount the LED pars in them to get
something similar to the 101s. They would be run as two different fixtures, but
we'd only have to fool with pan and tilt on the 600s part... So do you know of
any LED pars, the cheap type from China, that might do the job? Or what
specifically I should look for in an attempt to find them?
You have some contrary ideas.
1) ALL light-emitting devices create HEAT as they are NOT 100% efficient
(this includes that nearby star that we call the sun).
2) All solid-state light emitters (incandescent, LED) work at higher
efficiency, longer life, and better color balance when the generated
heat is removed.
3) LED emitters are rather sensitive to the semiconductor temperature;
the color spectrum and lifetime being the most affected.
4) EXCESS heating of the LED die will severely shorten its lifetime and
mess up the color spectrum during use.
Remote heatsinks, like what you propose, is contrary to the
efficiency and life you seem to expect.
Take a bare die "1 watt" LED and run it - you might get in the region
of 100mW before the die gets too hot.
Put it on a heavy copper heatsink and you may get 1.5 watts of
operation before the die gets too hot.
Then mount it on a LARGE TE cooler running to get its surface towards
-20C or better; that might allow 2 watts of operation (wild guesses here).
The reflector system could be separate from the LED, but the
mechanical designs of the LED mounting, LED heatsink(s) and the
reflector(s) need careful integration (design engineering anyone?) for
the particular use in mind.
There are extremely bright LED fixtures / systems made to replace
street lights that are at least the equal to halogen fixtures (for the
same purpose).