How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

Yes, I am aware that they should be replaced, but on preliminary tests
of this 1956 Zenith tube AM-FM Radio, I want to know if it's working. My
digital multimeter shows 1meg in one direction, 2.5 meg the other way.
NOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE CIRCUIT. To me, that seems bad, but I have not
worked with one of these in many years, and never had to replace one in
the old days. My meter was climbing, probably from the filter caps.
during this test.

 

[Fox's Mercantile]

On 12/2/18 12:30 AM, tubeguy@myshop.com wrote:

How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

Yes, I am aware that they should be replaced, but on preliminary tests
of this 1956 Zenith tube AM-FM Radio, I want to know if it's working. My
digital multimeter shows 1meg in one direction, 2.5 meg the other way.
NOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE CIRCUIT. To me, that seems bad, but I have not
worked with one of these in many years, and never had to replace one in
the old days. My meter was climbing, probably from the filter caps.
during this test.

A DMM won't read correctly. No enough voltage compliance on the current
source to read ohms correctly.
Just replace it with a 1N4007 diode and about 100 ohms series resistor.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com

 

On Sunday, 2 December 2018 06:30:51 UTC, tub...@myshop.com wrote:

How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

Yes, I am aware that they should be replaced, but on preliminary tests
of this 1956 Zenith tube AM-FM Radio, I want to know if it's working. My
digital multimeter shows 1meg in one direction, 2.5 meg the other way.
NOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE CIRCUIT. To me, that seems bad, but I have not
worked with one of these in many years, and never had to replace one in
the old days. My meter was climbing, probably from the filter caps.
during this test.

Selenium stacks have high Vf & high reverse leakage. DMMs don't apply enough voltage. Probably the simplest way to test is to power it up. They fail by Vf increasing, causing overheating & lots of toxic selenium fumes, so best not tested indoors.

Replacement is probably a wise option. But add a resistor & fuse, seleniums act as current limits. There are lots of old scopes still running with selenium EHT rectifiers in them.


NT

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Sun, 02 Dec 2018 01:26:41 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:

A DMM won't read correctly. No enough voltage compliance on the current
source to read ohms correctly.

True, but it *might* give some rough indication, like if the thing has
somehow shorted out. I have a few of those lying around somewhere; I'll
measure 'em with a DVM just out of curiosity and see if I get readings
like those reported by tabbs.


> Just replace it with a 1N4007 diode and about 100 ohms series resistor.

Not kosher if you want to keep the internals original! Many collectors
are extremely fussy about that.



--
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On Sunday, 2 December 2018 10:57:10 UTC, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sun, 02 Dec 2018 01:26:41 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:

A DMM won't read correctly. No enough voltage compliance on the current
source to read ohms correctly.

True, but it *might* give some rough indication, like if the thing has
somehow shorted out. I have a few of those lying around somewhere; I'll
measure 'em with a DVM just out of curiosity and see if I get readings
like those reported by tabbs.


Just replace it with a 1N4007 diode and about 100 ohms series resistor.

Not kosher if you want to keep the internals original! Many collectors
are extremely fussy about that.

I replaced some parts on my 1934 set, but you'd never know by looking inside. The new parts are inside the old, which are repacked exactly as original. With selenium you could possible hide the diode somewhere not noticeable, keeping the selenium in place.


NT

 

[Adrian Caspersz]

On 02/12/2018 13:03, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

> I replaced some parts on my 1934 set, but you'd never know by looking inside. The new parts are inside the old, which are repacked exactly as original. With selenium you could possible hide the diode somewhere not noticeable, keeping the selenium in place.

To maintain the authentic smell?

--
Adrian C

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <80v60e9fe9680kjb2aj25gn3kvol2m36ma@4ax.com>,
tubeguy@myshop.com says...

How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

Yes, I am aware that they should be replaced, but on preliminary tests
of this 1956 Zenith tube AM-FM Radio, I want to know if it's working. My
digital multimeter shows 1meg in one direction, 2.5 meg the other way.
NOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE CIRCUIT. To me, that seems bad, but I have not
worked with one of these in many years, and never had to replace one in
the old days. My meter was climbing, probably from the filter caps.
during this test.

The same way as with any other diode. However the selenium drop about a
volt for each plate that is on it. Each plate is only good for about
25 volts , so you may have 5 to 10 volts to overcome. Therefore most
meters will not have enough voltage to over come that drop.


Get a voltage source of around 10 volts or more (maybe even a 9 volt
battery will be enough) use your meter on the voltage scale and put hte
battery , diode , voltmeter in series. Then turn the voltage or diode
around and measure again. There should be a couple of volts dropped one
way and many more (almost all) the other.

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Sun, 02 Dec 2018 05:03:03 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:

I replaced some parts on my 1934 set, but you'd never know by looking
inside. The new parts are inside the old, which are repacked exactly as
original. With selenium you could possible hide the diode somewhere not
noticeable, keeping the selenium in place.

Yes, I'm aware of this practice, but for some super-fussy types, it's
still not good enough.




--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Sun, 02 Dec 2018 10:12:01 -0500, Ralph Mowery wrote:

Get a voltage source of around 10 volts or more (maybe even a 9 volt
battery will be enough) use your meter on the voltage scale and put hte
battery , diode , voltmeter in series. Then turn the voltage or diode
around and measure again. There should be a couple of volts dropped one
way and many more (almost all) the other.

+1

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 12/2/18 2:26 AM, Fox's Mercantile wrote:

On 12/2/18 12:30 AM, tubeguy@myshop.com wrote:
How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

Yes, I am aware that they should be replaced, but on preliminary tests
of this 1956 Zenith tube AM-FM Radio, I want to know if it's working. My
digital multimeter shows 1meg in one direction, 2.5 meg the other way.
NOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE CIRCUIT. To me, that seems bad, but I have not
worked with one of these in many years, and never had to replace one in
the old days. My meter was climbing, probably from the filter caps.
during this test.



A DMM won't read correctly. No enough voltage compliance on the current
source to read ohms correctly.
Just replace it with a 1N4007 diode and about 100 ohms series resistor.


And watch out for confetti.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Phil Allison]

Fox's Mercantile wrote:

How do you test a Selenium Rectifier?

Yes, I am aware that they should be replaced, but on preliminary tests
of this 1956 Zenith tube AM-FM Radio, I want to know if it's working. My
digital multimeter shows 1meg in one direction, 2.5 meg the other way.
NOT DISCONNECTED FROM THE CIRCUIT. To me, that seems bad, but I have not
worked with one of these in many years, and never had to replace one in
the old days. My meter was climbing, probably from the filter caps.
during this test.



A DMM won't read correctly. No enough voltage compliance on the current
source to read ohms correctly.

** Most DMMs have separate ohms and diode tests ranges, the ohms ranges
are for " in circuit" resistor testing and will not make a good Silicon or Selenium diode conduct.

Just replace it with a 1N4007 diode and about 100 ohms series resistor.

** Really ? Only the wimpiest rectifier has 100 ohms series resistance, like a Germanium detector diode.

The OP's Selenium rectifier powers an AM / FM radio,( minus less the tube filaments ) so ought to be good to half an amp - so maybe try 22 ohms @ 5watt.


..... Phil

 

On Sunday, 2 December 2018 13:27:47 UTC, Adrian Caspersz wrote:

On 02/12/2018 13:03, tabbypurr wrote:

I replaced some parts on my 1934 set, but you'd never know by looking inside. The new parts are inside the old, which are repacked exactly as original. With selenium you could possible hide the diode somewhere not noticeable, keeping the selenium in place.

To maintain the authentic smell?

obviously there won't be any smell from a selenium rectifier that isn't seeing power.


NT

 

On Sunday, 2 December 2018 16:15:37 UTC, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Sun, 02 Dec 2018 05:03:03 -0800, tabbypurr wrote:

I replaced some parts on my 1934 set, but you'd never know by looking
inside. The new parts are inside the old, which are repacked exactly as
original. With selenium you could possible hide the diode somewhere not
noticeable, keeping the selenium in place.

Yes, I'm aware of this practice, but for some super-fussy types, it's
still not good enough.

I like my kit to work. If some folk want theirs dead, I guess that's their call. There was no chance of it working without repair. FWIW having old kit that doesn't work is missing much of the experience.

With the selenium rectifier, you could still use it if it still works, but its toxicity is a problem that needs addressing somehow. That gets difficult, though not impossible.


NT

 

[MOP CAP]

Seleniums have a shelf life. By their very nature the go bad over
time. Thus any selenium out there is bad as they have not [at least in
the US} been made in a shelf life time.
CP

 

[Mike Coon]

In article <373715b3-d4e5-467b-ad63-78261068256b@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...
> ... & lots of toxic selenium fumes, so best not tested indoors.

And, IIRC, a horrible smell of cabbage!

Mike.

 

[John-Del]

On Monday, December 3, 2018 at 2:35:42 PM UTC-5, Mike Coon wrote:

In article <373715b3-d4e5-467b-ad63-78261068256b@googlegroups.com>,
tabbypurr@gmail.com says...
... & lots of toxic selenium fumes, so best not tested indoors.

And, IIRC, a horrible smell of cabbage!

Mike.

Cabbage that's already been digested...

 

Each plate is only good for about
25 volts ,

wow I always thought those were just heat sinks

I seriously would not have guessed that I would learn something new about
selenium rectifiers today.

mark

 

[Dave M]

Actually, they ARE heat sinks. Selenium rectifiers were much less efficient
than silicon, or even germanuim rectifiers, with a forward voltage drop of
about 1V per cell (plate). That means that if your rectifier has 16 cells,
then the rectifier, as a whole, will have AT LEAST 16 volts of forward
voltage drop. Multiply that by the current through the rectifier, and you
have the number of watts that has to be dissipated, thus, the need for the
heat sink plates.

I remember selenuim rectifiers being used in car battery chargers, capable
of charging at 50 amps. The plates, as I remember, were about 8" square,
and had to have a fan inside to cool the rectifier since there was so much
heat to be removed.

Cheers,
Dave M



makolber@yahoo.com wrote:

Each plate is only good for about
25 volts ,


wow I always thought those were just heat sinks

I seriously would not have guessed that I would learn something new
about selenium rectifiers today.

mark

 

[pfjw@aol.com]

I remember selenuim rectifiers being used in car battery chargers, capable
of charging at 50 amps.

Did not most battery chargers use copper-oxide rectifiers? As I understand it, they are both more rugged and more weather resistant than selenium. On the other hand, they are very similar in appearance.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <G8ydnbcn5sPXgZXBnZ2dnUU7-d_NnZ2d@giganews.com>,
dgminala@mediacombb.net says...

Actually, they ARE heat sinks. Selenium rectifiers were much less efficient
than silicon, or even germanuim rectifiers, with a forward voltage drop of
about 1V per cell (plate). That means that if your rectifier has 16 cells,
then the rectifier, as a whole, will have AT LEAST 16 volts of forward
voltage drop. Multiply that by the current through the rectifier, and you
have the number of watts that has to be dissipated, thus, the need for the
heat sink plates.

Yes, the actual plates are heat sinks, but I was loose with my words and
just using that as a refference as to how many sections there are. That
is each plate coresponds to a diode type junction in series. So if you
count 5 plates it is similar to having 5 dioides in series. Each one
good for about 25 volts of inverse voltage and dropping about a volt.
That would make around 5 volts forward drop and good for about 125 piv.

Using the term plate was to me just a quick way of estimating how much
voltage drop and PIV the stack could handle.