How do I get inside this?

[Terry Pinnell]

Tony Williams <tonyw@ledelec.demon.co.uk> wrote:

Terry, if you are inside the present power supply
have a look for a fusible link in series with the
incoming mains. Usually a small silver cylinder,
about the size of a 20mm fuse, sometimes with one
pointed end, and soldered with relatively long leads.

The conducting link inside is of Woods Metal, which
melts (and open circuits) at a relatively low temp.
Used increasingly these days as an overtemperature
safety device. It will have a temperature printed on it.

If it is open circuit then that is your prob, and
replacements are available from RS/Farnell.

Thanks, Tony. But that was first thing I checked, with great hopes of
a quick fix to reward my bravery with the hacksaw. However, it shows
continuity so seems OK.
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Z23supply.JPG

As mentioned, I've taken the easy way out. My ebay bid for an
identical printer was successful. Closed at 10.50 UKP - plus 7.50
postage! (Long live real stores <g>.) But it would be satisfying to
fix the present unit, so any further ideas welcomed.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

[Tim Mitchell]

In article <PCGPb.120630$na.116524@attbi_s04>, James Sweet
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes

I'm sure this is an obstinance thing, but realistically the Z23
is about the lowest-end printer there is. Pull the most valuable
component - the inkjet cartridge - and regard the rest as disposable.

If you want a recent printer that will last forever and does have
user-servicable interchangable components, get a HP Laserjet 2, 3, or 4.
Solidly engineered and designed to last. Parts (including everything
mechanical) are available from many sources.

Tim.


Are there any color printers that are any good these days? My roommate has a
HP 930c that seems to work pretty well, but it like everything else feels
rather flimsy. I've had terrible luck with Canon and newer Epson printers
drying out print heads, something I haven't experienced yet with HP.

I've got a Canon i850 which has been great so far. Much better than the

epson it replaced which got clogged printheads if you didn't use it for
a few days.
--
Tim Mitchell

 

[Tony Williams]

In article <pj3v00duun7jvf4275i58jr5s7ec8vmmhv@4ax.com>,
Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@dial.pipexTHIS.com> wrote:

Tony Williams <tonyw@ledelec.demon.co.uk> wrote:

Terry, if you are inside the present power supply
have a look for a fusible link in series with the
incoming mains. Usually a small silver cylinder,
about the size of a 20mm fuse, sometimes with one
pointed end, and soldered with relatively long leads.

Thanks, Tony. But that was first thing I checked, with great
hopes of a quick fix to reward my bravery with the hacksaw.
However, it shows continuity so seems OK.

Sorry Terry.....

I seem quite good at Grandmother, Eggs, Suck, Teach.

--
Tony Williams.

 

[Tim Shoppa]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<PCGPb.120630$na.116524@attbi_s04>...

I'm sure this is an obstinance thing, but realistically the Z23
is about the lowest-end printer there is. Pull the most valuable
component - the inkjet cartridge - and regard the rest as disposable.

If you want a recent printer that will last forever and does have
user-servicable interchangable components, get a HP Laserjet 2, 3, or 4.
Solidly engineered and designed to last. Parts (including everything
mechanical) are available from many sources.

Tim.


Are there any color printers that are any good these days? My roommate has a
HP 930c that seems to work pretty well, but it like everything else feels
rather flimsy. I've had terrible luck with Canon and newer Epson printers
drying out print heads, something I haven't experienced yet with HP.

If you're talking about inkjets, I feel they are all about the same.

If you're talking about other types of color printers, I still like the old
Tektronix wax-transfer ones. Sure, you have to put new crayons in all
the time, but it's way cheaper than ink cartridges.

Tim.

 

[James Sweet]

"Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com> wrote in message
news:bec993c8.0401221127.176cadca@posting.google.com...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:<PCGPb.120630$na.116524@attbi_s04>...

I'm sure this is an obstinance thing, but realistically the Z23
is about the lowest-end printer there is. Pull the most valuable
component - the inkjet cartridge - and regard the rest as disposable.

If you want a recent printer that will last forever and does have
user-servicable interchangable components, get a HP Laserjet 2, 3, or
4.
Solidly engineered and designed to last. Parts (including everything
mechanical) are available from many sources.

Tim.


Are there any color printers that are any good these days? My roommate
has a
HP 930c that seems to work pretty well, but it like everything else
feels
rather flimsy. I've had terrible luck with Canon and newer Epson
printers
drying out print heads, something I haven't experienced yet with HP.

If you're talking about inkjets, I feel they are all about the same.

If you're talking about other types of color printers, I still like the
old
Tektronix wax-transfer ones. Sure, you have to put new crayons in all
the time, but it's way cheaper than ink cartridges.

Tim.

How's the output quality of those? I haven't shopped around for new color
printers, but the Tek wax transfer ones sure don't grow on trees.

 

[Ian Bell]

Terry Pinnell wrote:

John Woodgate <jmw@jmwa.demon.contraspam.yuk> wrote:

I read in sci.electronics.design that Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@dial
.pipexTHIS.com> wrote (in <v9bq009kpdqmmad6bo4hhvrgp500c13lrc@4ax.com&gt
about 'How do I get inside this?', on Tue, 20 Jan 2004:

What on earth can be
holding it together - glue?

Maybe. Or sometimes they are ultrasonically welded.

Maybe a hacksaw...

Yes, probably the only practicable way. But go carefully (not that you
wouldn't, of course).

Yes, it seemed to be sort of welded together (ultrasonic welding says
Jerry up-thread). But it yielded to a hacksaw. Didn't do me much good
though. Nothing I can fix. Astonishingly compact little supply.

Ultrasonic welding is not used much these days - it's too expensvie. More
likely to be a snap fit designed to be closed just once. You are likely to
break the snap fits in opening the pox. Does not matter as you can glue it
back together afterwards.

Ian

 

[The Real Andy]

<snip>

Just thought, maybe a trip to your local battery repacker may help. I dont
know if you get battery repackers where you are but the guys we have over
here in AU can split those cases in half and get them back together without
any noticable form of intrusion. Don't know how they do it but it is
impressive.

 

[Tim Shoppa]

"The Real Andy" <i_luv_beer_especially_pilsners@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<4010c87b@dnews.tpgi.com.au>...

Just thought, maybe a trip to your local battery repacker may help. I dont
know if you get battery repackers where you are but the guys we have over
here in AU can split those cases in half and get them back together without
any noticable form of intrusion. Don't know how they do it but it is
impressive.

Here in the US, the term "battery repacker" conjures up little
magical elves who can enter nearly sealed enclosures.

What is an Australian battery repacker?

Tim.

 

[Sofie]

"one who replaces the internal batteries in those
battery pack for 2-way hand-held radios,
cell phones, laptops, cordless drills, etc."
-------------------------------



"Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com> wrote in message

What is an Australian battery repacker?

Tim.

 

[James Sweet]

"Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com> wrote in message
news:bec993c8.0401240723.7d0e2317@posting.google.com...

"The Real Andy" <i_luv_beer_especially_pilsners@yahoo.com> wrote in
message news:<4010c87b@dnews.tpgi.com.au>...
Just thought, maybe a trip to your local battery repacker may help. I
dont
know if you get battery repackers where you are but the guys we have
over
here in AU can split those cases in half and get them back together
without
any noticable form of intrusion. Don't know how they do it but it is
impressive.

Here in the US, the term "battery repacker" conjures up little
magical elves who can enter nearly sealed enclosures.

What is an Australian battery repacker?

A shop that rebuilds battery packs with new cells I would assume, I'm in the
US the term seems reasonable to me.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On Sat, 7 Feb 2004 23:15:16 +0000 (UTC), the renowned David Lesher
<wb8foz@panix.com> wrote:

"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> writes:

These supplies are not designed for being serviceable. They are usually
ultrasonically welded, or on permanent snaps. You may have to use a hacksaw
to open it. These supplies are considered disposable modules.


I use a bandsaw.

CAREFULLY use the saw along the existing break-line, no deeper than
the case's thickness.

Too shallow is better than too deep. You can always repeat.

Repeat on the other three sides. Then pry gently.

I use a Record(tm) vise/vice with hard plastic jaws. Squeeze carefully
with the jaws squishing the seams in, listen for cracks in the weld.

If that doesn't work, a nice hefty hacksaw with a Starrett Bluestripe
bimetal blade. No power tools. Some of those sealed boxes have
ordinary pigtail 5x20mm fuses in them. Easily replaced.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

 

[David Lesher]

"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> writes:

These supplies are not designed for being serviceable. They are usually
ultrasonically welded, or on permanent snaps. You may have to use a hacksaw
to open it. These supplies are considered disposable modules.

I use a bandsaw.

CAREFULLY use the saw along the existing break-line, no deeper than
the case's thickness.

Too shallow is better than too deep. You can always repeat.

Repeat on the other three sides. Then pry gently.

Good luck.

--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

 

[Andrew VK3BFA]

Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@dial.pipexTHIS.com> wrote in message news:<v9bq009kpdqmmad6bo4hhvrgp500c13lrc@4ax.com>...

My LexMark Z23 Printer's power supply unit has suddenly died on me.
240 V is reaching it, but the 30V at 0.4A output is conspicuously
absent. Nor is there any resistance across the mains inputs. (But, as
I'm unsure what sort of power unit this is, maybe I shouldn't expect
any; is there conceivably a capacitor in series?) Definitely nothing
at the output contacts though. No idea what could have caused failure.

Anyway, I desperately need to know how to get into the unit to attempt
a fix. It's a litle rectangular case about 65 x 65 mm, with one corner
beveled off, and 30 mm deep. FWIW, here's an illustration of it:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/LexMarkZ23Power.jpg

It can be pulled from main unit after removing latter's covers. On
removing the single self-tapping screw, I expected to be able to prise
the halves apart, but it's just not budging. What on earth can be
holding it together - glue?

Maybe a hacksaw...

Hi Terry,

have had occassion to fix these similar things often - too expensive
to replace. To get them open,
clamp in vice(vise?) and progressively tighten until protesting sounds
heard. repeat on all sides, then use a broad screwdriver as a chisel
and whack around the seams - probably some seam damage, but can be
patched up.

Faults - already been covered is thermal input protection. But to be
sure, check for large DC voltage on main filter cap. Check for short
cct zener across output, or fusible resistor (type0.5-2 r) in series
with output. Check startup resistors (from + of main filter cap to
chopper, usually 220K or sim, could be 2 in series, go O/C). Check all
low voltage /high cpactitance lectros with esr meter. More than this,
............
Andrew VK3BFA

 

[Terry Pinnell]

ablight@alphalink.com.au (Andrew VK3BFA) wrote:

Terry Pinnell <terrypinDELETE@dial.pipexTHIS.com> wrote in message news:<v9bq009kpdqmmad6bo4hhvrgp500c13lrc@4ax.com>...

Maybe a hacksaw...

Hi Terry,

have had occassion to fix these similar things often - too expensive
to replace. To get them open,
clamp in vice(vise?) and progressively tighten until protesting sounds
heard. repeat on all sides, then use a broad screwdriver as a chisel
and whack around the seams - probably some seam damage, but can be
patched up.

Faults - already been covered is thermal input protection. But to be
sure, check for large DC voltage on main filter cap. Check for short
cct zener across output, or fusible resistor (type0.5-2 r) in series
with output. Check startup resistors (from + of main filter cap to
chopper, usually 220K or sim, could be 2 in series, go O/C). Check all
low voltage /high cpactitance lectros with esr meter. More than this,

Thanks, Andrew. As you may have seen up-thread (22 Jan), having
established that it wasn't the fuse, I took the easy way out. Bid on
ebay for identical printer (10.50 UKP - plus 7.50 postage; say 32
USD.) That's now installed. When the cartridges run out I'll probably
switch to a different brand.

But I'll have another crack at fixing the present unit sometime, now
that I have those practical suggestions. Must say that access seemed a
challenge though - very compact.

I was also thinking of just building a conventional supply,
externally, and using those terminals. I see its output is specified
as 30V DC, but using my home-brew variable power supply I found that
24V seemed to operate it OK.

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

[David Sewell]

I just use a nut cracker!!

 

[jakdedert]

Sam, is this covered in the FAQ? I haven't been there in some time, but
don't remember it. It does seem like the question comes up here often
(opening various electronically welded plastic seams). If it's there (I'll
look eventually), we should point it out. If it's not, it probably should
be.

FWIW, I've come to rely on the 'hold in hand, whack with rubber mallet'
procedure. Works for me--every time I've tried it.

jak

"David Sewell" <david@hereat.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:c06dgb$vkb$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

I just use a nut cracker!!

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

Sam, is this covered in the FAQ? I haven't been there in some time, but
don't remember it. It does seem like the question comes up here often
(opening various electronically welded plastic seams). If it's there (I'll
look eventually), we should point it out. If it's not, it probably should
be.

I'm not sure every variation is covered but there are typically sections
on "how to get inside.....". The hacksaw, vice, and hammer probably are.

FWIW, I've come to rely on the 'hold in hand, whack with rubber mallet'
procedure. Works for me--every time I've tried it.

And if that doesn't work, get a bigger mallet.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[jakdedert]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w65egq7mz.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> writes:

Sam, is this covered in the FAQ? I haven't been there in some time, but
don't remember it. It does seem like the question comes up here often
(opening various electronically welded plastic seams). If it's there
(I'll
look eventually), we should point it out. If it's not, it probably
should
be.

I'm not sure every variation is covered but there are typically sections
on "how to get inside.....". The hacksaw, vice, and hammer probably are.

FWIW, I've come to rely on the 'hold in hand, whack with rubber mallet'
procedure. Works for me--every time I've tried it.

And if that doesn't work, get a bigger mallet.

....or a bigger hand. Seriously, this one works quite well. I'd been using

the mallet method with good success for some time, then someone here
mentioned holding the piece whilst whacking it. I was skeptical until I
tried it, but it actually enhances the action somewhat, while protecting the
unit under repair from damage.

So far, I've not hurt my hand, either. ;-)

jak

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work.
To
contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[David Lesher]

It occurs to me there's another way.

You need a jig to hold your Dremel tool thus:

|
| <-cutoff wheel
==cord==={body of tool]--|
|
|




-----table--------------------|<-fence..

The idea is you slide the wall-wart under the cutoff wheel. It will foul
with plastic but still work. Don't forget nose-plusg for the stink...

--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433