Glue for repairing wall warts and laptop batteries?

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Wed, 6 May 2015 15:59:29 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

I just use this stuff- it's cheap and has a nice nozzle and no threads to
get gunked up after the first use. NO oozing messes like with metal
squeeze tubes either.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silicone-II-2-8-oz-Clear-Window-and-Door-Caulk-GE500-3TG/100179996

Good stuff, but not perfect. See Silicone II on the chart at the
bottom of the page:
<http://yarchive.net/electr/silicone_sealant_corrosiveness.html>

Hell, plain old superglue will probably work fine if you clamp the shells
together under some pressure while it all dries. It's cheap and there's
quite a bit of surface to be joined so the strength should be excellent.

Cyanoacrylates (super glue) is very brittle which doesn't work on
flexible plastics, which includes some wall warts. I've glued them in
spots around the perimeter, only to have the case pop open when I
dropped the wall wart on the floor. I suspect more glue would be
better, but have never tried it.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Dave Platt]

Cyanoacrylates (super glue) is very brittle which doesn't work on
flexible plastics, which includes some wall warts. I've glued them in
spots around the perimeter, only to have the case pop open when I
dropped the wall wart on the floor. I suspect more glue would be
better, but have never tried it.

There are "toughened" cyanoacrylates which are supposed to be better
about this... the ones I've seen apparently include some extremely
fine rubber particles or other fillers. Most of the big glue
manufacturers seem to sell one variant or another of this.

 

[Mike]

On Wed, 06 May 2015 13:08:05 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

Cyanoacrylates (super glue) is very brittle which doesn't work on
flexible plastics, which includes some wall warts. I've glued them in
spots around the perimeter, only to have the case pop open when I
dropped the wall wart on the floor. I suspect more glue would be
better, but have never tried it.

There are "toughened" cyanoacrylates which are supposed to be better
about this... the ones I've seen apparently include some extremely fine
rubber particles or other fillers. Most of the big glue manufacturers
seem to sell one variant or another of this.

I haven't spotted any mention of hot-melt glue guns - not suitable?

Mike.

 

[mike]

On 5/6/2015 2:11 PM, Mike wrote:

On Wed, 06 May 2015 13:08:05 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

Cyanoacrylates (super glue) is very brittle which doesn't work on
flexible plastics, which includes some wall warts. I've glued them in
spots around the perimeter, only to have the case pop open when I
dropped the wall wart on the floor. I suspect more glue would be
better, but have never tried it.

There are "toughened" cyanoacrylates which are supposed to be better
about this... the ones I've seen apparently include some extremely fine
rubber particles or other fillers. Most of the big glue manufacturers
seem to sell one variant or another of this.

I haven't spotted any mention of hot-melt glue guns - not suitable?

Mike.

I've not had much luck.
Hard to get it spread around before it gets too cold.
Doesn't stick well to smooth plastic.

Might be interesting to roughen the surface, lay it on thin, assemble,
then reheat with a heat gun.

My plastic welding experiment seems to be plenty strong with just
four patches, one in each corner.
I put a tie wrap around it just in case.

 

[Michael Black]

On Wed, 6 May 2015, Mike wrote:

On Wed, 06 May 2015 13:08:05 -0700, Dave Platt wrote:

Cyanoacrylates (super glue) is very brittle which doesn't work on
flexible plastics, which includes some wall warts. I've glued them in
spots around the perimeter, only to have the case pop open when I
dropped the wall wart on the floor. I suspect more glue would be
better, but have never tried it.

There are "toughened" cyanoacrylates which are supposed to be better
about this... the ones I've seen apparently include some extremely fine
rubber particles or other fillers. Most of the big glue manufacturers
seem to sell one variant or another of this.

I haven't spotted any mention of hot-melt glue guns - not suitable?

That's really good for a lot of things, but the hot glue can run again if
it gets too hot, so it might not be suitable here.

I used it for something, and was fine, then one day noticed it was no
longer doing its job, the glue had melted.

On the other hand, that's a value for some things, you can melt the glue
and rearrange things.

I had a good halogen lamp from Ikea that used an external AC adapter. It
went bad one time, if I recall there was fuse in there. So I had to open
it up. WHen I put it back to gether, I used epoxy, which is kind of
messy, and relatively permenent. But it still holds.

Michael

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Wed, 6 May 2015 13:08:05 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:

Cyanoacrylates (super glue) is very brittle which doesn't work on
flexible plastics, which includes some wall warts. I've glued them in
spots around the perimeter, only to have the case pop open when I
dropped the wall wart on the floor. I suspect more glue would be
better, but have never tried it.

There are "toughened" cyanoacrylates which are supposed to be better
about this... the ones I've seen apparently include some extremely
fine rubber particles or other fillers. Most of the big glue
manufacturers seem to sell one variant or another of this.

Thanks. I must be living a sheltered life. I hadn't heard of those:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=rubber+toughened+cyanoacrylate>
<https://www.google.com/search?q=rubber+toughened+cyanoacrylate&&tbm=shop>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Beloved Leader]

On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 6:32:21 PM UTC-4, mike wrote:

Been fixing wall warts and laptop batteries.
I'd normally glue them back together with the
stuff used for plastic plumbing.

I open up those wall warts every now and then. When I've finished doing whatever it was that I opened them up for, I put them back together with contact cement and dental floss. The contact cement goes on the seams. Then I wrap the two halves with about six windings of dental floss and tie the loose ends in a knot You won't be able to pull the two halves apart.

Dental floss is pretty strong stuff. Think: how many strands of dental floss would be needed for you to support your weight were you to hang, with a gloved hand, from a tree limb or football goalpost? Not that many.

 

I have used GC Electronics Service Cement successfully.

Plastic Weld by Plastruct works well too.

Dan

 

[mike]

On 7/31/2015 4:15 PM, dansabrservices@yahoo.com wrote:

I have used GC Electronics Service Cement successfully.

Plastic Weld by Plastruct works well too.

Dan

Anybody tried Bondic?
Looks interesting, but not $22 interesting.

 

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote:

mike wrote:

Been fixing wall warts and laptop batteries.
I'd normally glue them back together with the
stuff used for plastic plumbing.
But the stuff has a short shelf life after opening
and I waste 90% of it. Every time I try to use it,
the can contents is solid. I spend $4 on a can of
glue to fix a 25-cent wall wart.

So, Is there a glue that works well holding wall
warts back together and has a long shelf life?
I have no idea what type the plastic is.

The trick is to use a large wrench to tighten the PVC cement lid down.
You don't use a lot of gripping force, or it will crush the lid. But, you
use a big wrench so you can get a solid grip on the knurled cap. I've done
this for years, and my PVC cement usually lasts a couple years before drying
out. You WILL need the wrench to get it open the next time, though.

Jon

pump wrench http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v1/144680916/Water_Pump_Wrench.jpg

cut a square of Walmart grocery bag, pierce a mid hole if the cap has a brush..

cover can with bag square so threads are covered screw lid on then tweak threads tight with pump wrench.

comes apart with pump wrench. store wrench in cool place.

what's a wall wart ? I repair lead separation on charger units with liquid electrical tape. Splint the wire n cover area with tape goooo. Grainger has the good stuff. Handy shelf barnacle

 

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 10:51:28 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Wed, 29 Apr 2015 19:19:26 -0700, mike <ham789@netzero.net> wrote:

RTV has the same shelf life problem. And it's GAWD awful expensive.

Yep. 1 year at best. One part RTV cures by the action of atmospheric
water (humidity) on acetoxysilane to form acetic acid. All it takes
is a little water in either a porous container or lousy cap fit, and
you have a guaranteed limited shelf life. I've tried vacuum sealed
bags over rubber cement, silicone, and some smelly solvents, with
generally good results. Whether it's worth the effort is debateable.

You can also get two part RTV. The most common types are rubber
casting compound and high cure rate production line adhesives commonly
used in appliance assembly. For example:
https://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/80-3375.pdf
The problem is that these don't have any better shelf life than the
one part RTV, about 1 year.

All the stuff I've found at reasonable prices or at the hardware store
exude acetic acid.

You can get non-acetic acid RTV, also known as non-corrosive silicone.
https://www.google.com/search?q=non-corrosive+silicone+adhesive&tbm=isch

This might be enlightening:
http://yarchive.net/electr/silicone_sealant_corrosiveness.html

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

use the bag. roll up the tube bottom when using just like on TV forcing the air out, place small bag square over outlet then screw cap just so before closing while squeezing the bottom of tube at the rollup focing last air out while snuuging the cap down tight.

I split caps...keep a box of spares with the paint nozzles and bag ties

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 15:47:43 -0700 (PDT), avagadro7@gmail.com wrote:

>what's a wall wart ?

<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=wall+wart>

A large one is a "power brick":
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=power+brick>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558