Glass fibre cleaner for soldering iron tip

[GregS]

In article <49EB125A.3604CC89@hotmail.com>, Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Matt H R wrote:

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?

No. I use the classic damp Weller sponge.

Graham

Switched to a brass wool and never need to go back.

greg

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

"Matt H R" <matthr@robinson.fr> wrote in message
news:Xns9BF26EF91716628D1@news.x-privat.org...

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?
Does it have there any unsafe chemicals which might be given off if
used on a hot soldering iron? (700 deg F/390 deg C)

I have loads of glass wool in my loft! It's that pink coloured spun
type which doesn't seem to leave as many shards and splinters as
the old style glass wool. Users in forums have warned that the
glass-fibre pen also leaves this sort of sharp debris.


Matt

That brush works great but not for tip cleaning. It is for cleaning the
work after you solder. I use a metal pot scrubber stuffed into my iron
holder to knock the waste off of the tip. Some suggest that the metal will
scratch the tip, but I have not found this to be the case. I just have it
shaped so that when I put the iron in the holder it fits into a hole in the
scrubber and a twist of the iron going in or out cleans it quite well. I
never have to worry about wetting a sponge, which for me is inconvenient as
most of my repairs are in the field.

I use a brush virtually identical to that one to clean my work to check it.
I scrape the bulk of the flux of of a joint then brush it with the fiber pen
for a final cleaning and can see the trace and joint to verify the integrity
of the work. Leaves it looking professional as well.

Leonard

 

[John Rumm]

VWWall wrote:

I've seen videos of someone dipping a wet finger into molten solder.
The steam produced by the water vaporization protects the finger for the
short, (very short!!), time it's in the solder.

Its called the Leidenfrost effect...

Try it yourself with a soldering iron. I first saw a plumber do this
with a large iron, heated with a blow torch. With a small iron tip,
it's easy. Just be quick, make sure your finger is wet, and flick it
fast enough that no hot solder sticks to the finger. Be careful where
you flick it. The molten solder removed will burn bare skin.

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

 

[Dirk Bruere at NeoPax]

John Rumm wrote:

VWWall wrote:

I've seen videos of someone dipping a wet finger into molten solder.
The steam produced by the water vaporization protects the finger for
the short, (very short!!), time it's in the solder.

Its called the Leidenfrost effect...

Try it yourself with a soldering iron. I first saw a plumber do this
with a large iron, heated with a blow torch. With a small iron tip,
it's easy. Just be quick, make sure your finger is wet, and flick it
fast enough that no hot solder sticks to the finger. Be careful where
you flick it. The molten solder removed will burn bare skin.

Similar protective effect if you pour LN2 over your hand.
Just not for too long, and don't let it pool or wet clothing



--
Dirk

http://www.transcendence.me.uk/ - Transcendence UK
http://www.theconsensus.org/ - A UK political party
http://www.onetribe.me.uk/wordpress/?cat=5 - Our podcasts on weird stuff

 

[GregS]

In article <753p64F16dedrU1@mid.individual.net>, Dirk Bruere at NeoPax <dirk.bruere@gmail.com> wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
VWWall wrote:

I've seen videos of someone dipping a wet finger into molten solder.
The steam produced by the water vaporization protects the finger for
the short, (very short!!), time it's in the solder.

Its called the Leidenfrost effect...

Try it yourself with a soldering iron. I first saw a plumber do this
with a large iron, heated with a blow torch. With a small iron tip,
it's easy. Just be quick, make sure your finger is wet, and flick it
fast enough that no hot solder sticks to the finger. Be careful where
you flick it. The molten solder removed will burn bare skin.


Similar protective effect if you pour LN2 over your hand.
Just not for too long, and don't let it pool or wet clothing

Two weks ago I leaned up against a hot air pistol while I was painting.

Last week I pick up an iron, the very small Well pen 80 watts,
thinking it was one of the multimeter leads. I let go pretty quick.

greg

 

[VWWall]

Dirk Bruere at NeoPax wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
VWWall wrote:

I've seen videos of someone dipping a wet finger into molten solder.
The steam produced by the water vaporization protects the finger for
the short, (very short!!), time it's in the solder.

Its called the Leidenfrost effect...

Try it yourself with a soldering iron. I first saw a plumber do this
with a large iron, heated with a blow torch. With a small iron tip,
it's easy. Just be quick, make sure your finger is wet, and flick it
fast enough that no hot solder sticks to the finger. Be careful
where you flick it. The molten solder removed will burn bare skin.


Similar protective effect if you pour LN2 over your hand.
Just not for too long, and don't let it pool or wet clothing

The heat of vaporization is 2257 kj/kg for water, (often expressed as

539 calories/gram), and only 2.79 kj/kg for nitrogen. Water is a far
better cooler! I've actually dipped my finger in LN2 for a very short
time. The evaporation in this case provides an "air" barrier between
the finger and the cold LN2.

As a junior engineer, I was involved in "pumping" vacuum tubes. In
those days we used a mercury vapor vacuum pump with a cold trap, filled
with LN2, in the system. You can have a lot of fun with "liquid air",
but it will cause severe frost bite rapidly. The tissues are destroyed
by the ice crystals formed by the extreme cold.

Most "liquid air" now sold is actually LN2, because of the fire danger
even with the normal oxygen content. Besides there is a very good
market for the oxygen removed.

Mercury vapor pumps are long gone. (Imagine the danger in boiling
mercury!) Ion pumps and absorption pumps have largely eliminated the
need for cold traps.

--
VWW

 

[Bob Larter]

Matt H R wrote:

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?
Does it have there any unsafe chemicals which might be given off if
used on a hot soldering iron? (700 deg F/390 deg C)

I have loads of glass wool in my loft! It's that pink coloured spun
type which doesn't seem to leave as many shards and splinters as
the old style glass wool. Users in forums have warned that the
glass-fibre pen also leaves this sort of sharp debris.

What's wrong with just using an ordinary wet soldering iron sponge? I've
used the wire-wool cleaners, but I find that sponges do a better job.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Bob Larter]

Matt H R wrote:

I guess my Antex XS25 iron might be a bit too hot. It's nominally
quite hot at 390 degrees C (735 F) and could be running even
hotter.

It should be 360c.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Bob Larter]

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Dixy wrote:
[...]
This is a 35W iron with ~1/8" tip. I don't try to maintain the
original surface, but file it occasionally and "re-tin" it
when necessary. I run it from a Variac, and when needed, 135V
gives extra punch. It serves 95% of my requirements. I have
other specialized "soldering stations", and use their built in
"sponges" for tip cleaning.

Amazing! My girlfriend is very cautious of the soldering iron but
this is quite the opposite. I mean, gawd, don't you leave burnt skin.

An old girlfriend of mine used to be terrified of going anywhere near my
workbench for that reason.

I always used to wipe em on my jeans.. they lasted longer and cost less
than the sponges..

I've done that in a pinch (on site), but usually stick with the
traditional wet sponge. ;^)


--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Eeyore]

GregS wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Matt H R wrote:

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?

No. I use the classic damp Weller sponge.

Switched to a brass wool and never need to go back.

I've tried it and I didn't get on with it. Maybe you have a finer grade.

Graham

 

[Bob Larter]

Eeyore wrote:

GregS wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Matt H R wrote:

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?
No. I use the classic damp Weller sponge.
Switched to a brass wool and never need to go back.

I've tried it and I didn't get on with it. Maybe you have a finer grade.

I tried brass wool, but found that the iron was just as likely to pick
up crud from the wool.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Bob Larter wrote:

Eeyore wrote:

GregS wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Matt H R wrote:

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?
No. I use the classic damp Weller sponge.
Switched to a brass wool and never need to go back.

I've tried it and I didn't get on with it. Maybe you have a finer grade.

I tried brass wool, but found that the iron was just as likely to pick
up crud from the wool.

Everything except a damp sponge or a tin of tip cleaner was banned
form our production floor, and sponges had to be replaced as soon as
they started to decay.

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!

 

[Bob Larter]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Bob Larter wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
GregS wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Matt H R wrote:

I saw this glass-fibre brush (or pen) for cleaning soldering iron
tips while hot.

http://uk.farnell.com/duratool/bu1019-1/pencil-brush-propelling-
scratch/dp/1421553> OR http://xrl.us/bephkz

Would a wodge of glass wool (loft insulation) do as good a job?
No. I use the classic damp Weller sponge.
Switched to a brass wool and never need to go back.
I've tried it and I didn't get on with it. Maybe you have a finer grade.
I tried brass wool, but found that the iron was just as likely to pick
up crud from the wool.

Everything except a damp sponge or a tin of tip cleaner was banned
form our production floor, and sponges had to be replaced as soon as
they started to decay.

Good. The traditional damp sponge is simple but it works.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Bob Eager]

On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:19:00 UTC, "Man at B&Q" <manatbandq@hotmail.com>
wrote:

On Apr 19, 9:24 am, "Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:
On Sun, 19 Apr 2009 05:51:05 UTC, "Gareth Magennis"

sound.serv...@btconnect.com> wrote:
I wouldn't imagine them at all suitable  for cleaning soldering tips, it
would be a right old palaver.  Whats wrong with the wet sponge method?

Cools the tip down momentarily.

If it hasn't re-heated by the time you get to the job, you need a
better iron!

Probably true. My main iron (which I've been using a lot recently) is
75W....although as it happens I use a 'brass shavings' cleaner.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

 

[GregS]

In article <176uZD2KcidF-pn2-6r8420NZr0qe@rikki.tavi.co.uk>, "Bob Eager" <rde42@spamcop.net> wrote:

On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:19:00 UTC, "Man at B&Q" <manatbandq@hotmail.com
wrote:

On Apr 19, 9:24 am, "Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:
On Sun, 19 Apr 2009 05:51:05 UTC, "Gareth Magennis"

sound.serv...@btconnect.com> wrote:
I wouldn't imagine them at all suitable  for cleaning soldering tips, it
would be a right old palaver.  Whats wrong with the wet sponge method?

Cools the tip down momentarily.

If it hasn't re-heated by the time you get to the job, you need a
better iron!

Probably true. My main iron (which I've been using a lot recently) is
75W....although as it happens I use a 'brass shavings' cleaner.

I am using the pencil thin Weller 80 watt iron for serious work. Its a 3 piece
combo with air and solder pump. The solder pump becomes unusable
after sitting there sometimes for weeks of non use. I have to rub the brass pretty
hard to get through to the metal. Usually a big job. I usually end up holding
the iron and pump tips close to the board and go from iron to pump real
quick. I wish each channel would have an auto off. The iron only takes
about 15 secs to fully heat. The old irons back in the 80's we were using were straight
unregulated ones and with the high temp, the tips would need a lot of cleaning.

greg

 

[Man at B&Q]

On Apr 19, 9:24 am, "Bob Eager" <rd...@spamcop.net> wrote:

On Sun, 19 Apr 2009 05:51:05 UTC, "Gareth Magennis"

sound.serv...@btconnect.com> wrote:
I wouldn't imagine them at all suitable  for cleaning soldering tips, it
would be a right old palaver.  Whats wrong with the wet sponge method?

Cools the tip down momentarily.

If it hasn't re-heated by the time you get to the job, you need a
better iron!

MBQ

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <gsk0nn$6cb$3@blackhelicopter.databasix.com>,
Bob Larter <bobbylarter@gmail.com> wrote:

Matt H R wrote:
I guess my Antex XS25 iron might be a bit too hot. It's nominally
quite hot at 390 degrees C (735 F) and could be running even
hotter.

It should be 360c.

Not if you don't have all day long to fiddle around. I never solder with
anything but 800 F. (427 C.)

 

[Bob Larter]

Smitty Two wrote:

In article <gsk0nn$6cb$3@blackhelicopter.databasix.com>,
Bob Larter <bobbylarter@gmail.com> wrote:

Matt H R wrote:
I guess my Antex XS25 iron might be a bit too hot. It's nominally
quite hot at 390 degrees C (735 F) and could be running even
hotter.
It should be 360c.

Not if you don't have all day long to fiddle around. I never solder with
anything but 800 F. (427 C.)

That's silver-soldering temperature. If you use that for electronics,
you'd want to be damn quick with it!


--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <gsvddn$odv$1@blackhelicopter.databasix.com>,
Bob Larter <bobbylarter@gmail.com> writes:

Smitty Two wrote:
In article <gsk0nn$6cb$3@blackhelicopter.databasix.com>,
Bob Larter <bobbylarter@gmail.com> wrote:

Matt H R wrote:
I guess my Antex XS25 iron might be a bit too hot. It's nominally
quite hot at 390 degrees C (735 F) and could be running even
hotter.
It should be 360c.

Not if you don't have all day long to fiddle around. I never solder with
anything but 800 F. (427 C.)

[me too]

That's silver-soldering temperature. If you use that for electronics,
you'd want to be damn quick with it!

That's the advantage -- you can be damn quick, and thus transfer
less total energy into the parts.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

 

[Smitty Two]

In article <49f345c9$0$513$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk>,
andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article <gsvddn$odv$1@blackhelicopter.databasix.com>,
Bob Larter <bobbylarter@gmail.com> writes:
Smitty Two wrote:
In article <gsk0nn$6cb$3@blackhelicopter.databasix.com>,
Bob Larter <bobbylarter@gmail.com> wrote:

Matt H R wrote:
I guess my Antex XS25 iron might be a bit too hot. It's nominally
quite hot at 390 degrees C (735 F) and could be running even
hotter.
It should be 360c.

Not if you don't have all day long to fiddle around. I never solder with
anything but 800 F. (427 C.)

[me too]

That's silver-soldering temperature. If you use that for electronics,
you'd want to be damn quick with it!

That's the advantage -- you can be damn quick, and thus transfer
less total energy into the parts.

'zactly.