GE 9" under counter TV video in and out

[Dan Dubosky]

Since the old HOT still checked OK with an ohmmeter, that is with no emitter
to collector short, I reinstalled it and the set played for about 1/2 hour
before it again started its OFF and ON again recycling. With David's
comment in mind, I have now removed the circuit board from its normal area
and propped it up at a 90 degree angle so that I could attach an
oscilloscope probe to the base electrode of the HOT. It appears to be the
electrode which is driven whereas the emitter is at zero potential. I was
hoping to see it going into linear mode. It has now being playing perfectly
for about an hour. Since the circuit board has different mechanical
stressed on it when positioned at 90 degrees, you may be correct James that
this is a bad solder joint, but I must say I haven't found it as yet. I
would think that if it is the flyback, Jamie, it wouldn't care that it was
in a different position. But who knows?

Dan

"David" <someone@some-where.com> wrote in message
news:s4%Zj.2331$xZ.1649@nlpi070.nbdc.sbc.com...

"Dan Dubosky" <ddubosky@REMOVETHISptd.net> wrote in message
news:B5mdnRydhMQ97KXVnZ2dnUVZ_jydnZ2d@ptd.net...
Well, you were correct James, although for a while I thought that the new
HOT had corrected the problem. After I installed the new HOT, the set
continued to operate for about 1/2 hour. Since it had previously started
its cycling of off and on after about 5 minutes, I initially thought that
it was fixed. I left the set ON just to be sure and left the room. I
came back in about an hour to find the set completely off. The fuse had
blown, and the new HOT now has the classic fault of a short between the
emitter and collector.

Dan
This sounds like the classic problem of lack of drive to the HOT due to
bad solder connections on the driver transformer or its related circuitry,
or a bad capacitor that bypasses the H. drive dropping resistor.. If the
drive falls too low, the HOT goes into linear mode and the dissipation
goes through the roof blowing the transistor.

David

 

[Dan Dubosky]

Resolder the joints on the flyback.
the weight of it sitting sideways is most likely baring down on a bad
joint and keeping it going.
It could be a top side joint that you can't see.


I have resoldered the bottom joints on the flyback at least twice. When the

board was in the 90 degree position, I flexed the board in all directions to
no avail. With the board in its normal position, I then pushed on the
flyback in all directions so as to flex the board beneath it. The problem
fails to appear.

Thanks for the input, Jamie.
Dan

 

[Dan Dubosky]

Resolder the joints on the flyback.
the weight of it sitting sideways is most likely baring down on a bad
joint and keeping it going.
It could be a top side joint that you can't see.


I have resoldered the bottom joints on the flyback at least twice. When the

board was in the 90 degree position, I flexed the board in all directions to
no avail. With the board in its normal position, I then pushed on the
flyback in all directions so as to flex the board beneath it. The problem
fails to appear.

Thanks for the input, Jamie.
Dan

 

[Dan Dubosky]

After a short warm-up, the set still continues to perform as described. It
is now often enough so that I was able to look at the waveform of the signal
which drives the HOT. During the cycle to the OFF period, the waveform
callapses and the HOT during this period of time is not being cut OFF. The
waveform at the input of the driving transformer also collapses, but this
may not be surprising since one of the B+ volltages is derived from the
horizontal output transformer. In fact, any waveform with horizontal
periodicity at many of the test points collapses. There is a rather high B+
voltage of over 160 volts which doesn't seem to be effected at all. As I
said earlier, I do not have the schematic diagram so I don't know what
circuit is supplied with what B+ source.

Perhaps as someone suggested it may be the horizontal output transformer,
but if that is the problem, I cannot understand why spraying the HOT with a
component coolent would seem to get rid of the problem at least temporarily.

I've gone over the circuit board with a jeweler's loupe in order to see if
there are any suspicious solder joints. Yes, I know that is not 100%
effective. Anything that looked even the sightest bit suspicious, I
resoldered it.

As Sam Goldwasser states a problem with blowing HOTs may require
substitution of components in order to solve it. I'm not sure how much more
I am willing to invest in view of the age ot the set.

Thanks to all.
Dan

 

[Dan Dubosky]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@trashmail.net> wrote in message
news:d31%j.1379$GT5.271@trndny01...

Well you've come this far, gotta figure out what's going on now, if only
for the curiosity.

Have you tried poking around with an insulated stick while the set is on
in order to track down a bad connection? Could be a cracked trace as well,
those can be hard to find. Is there an IC that supplies drive to the HOT?
Perhaps the voltage to that is dropping?

Yes, James, I have poked and poked with an insulated stick of the type that
I used to use for adjusting IF transformers. I have never been able to find
anything that resulted in producing the problem. You are right that I am
still intensely curious as to what the defect is, and I will probably
continue to putter with the set in-between other projects.

Today, I found someone in a previous post who recommended a replacement for
TP15. If you recall, this was listed by NTE as obsolete and no longer
available. It is the transistor which has discolored the board due to heat.
I bought an NTE 287 which was recommended as the replacement and installed
it, but that has not resulted in any change. Tomorrow I will probably buy
the Sam's Photofact Folder on this set just so I don't keep wandering around
the board in the dark. I am fully aware of the fact that this may not help
all that much if the defect is somewhere in the feedback loop involving the
HOT, the output transformer, and the B+ supplied to previous stages. It
sure would be nice to know what in the world I'm looking at on the board.
Who knows ??? It might even help.

Dan

 

[Dan Dubosky]

Success, at last!!! This is just to put an end to this thread of messages.

I finally bought the schematic diagram for this set and began to search for
the problem. After the set was ON for a short while, the negative voltage
spike at the base of the HOT would disappear. Sometimes it wasn't there
even from the beginning. Accordingly, the HOT was not being shut OFF as
rapidly as it should be, and the temperature of the HOT would rise to the
point where it would shut down, and in some mysterious fashion cause the
system control chip to turn the set OFF. The feedback loops in this set
are numerous. At first I thought that the 100Mfd capacitor which
differentiates the square wave to develop the spike was deffective, but
replacing it did not solve the problem. I then resoldered the joints in
this area particularly around RP21 and LP02, and this cured the disappearing
spike and the turning OFF and ON.

So, James, you were right. It was a bad solder joint all along.

Thanks to all for your help.
Dan

 

[James Sweet]

Dan Dubosky wrote:

I have a GE 9" under the counter TV (Model 09GP108) which has video that
fades out after the set is on for while, then comes back, and repeats the
process periodically thereafter. There is a NPN transistor labeled TP15
which appears to get hot enough to discolor the board beneath it. This
transistor checks OK with an ohmmeter, but may be breaking down under higher
voltages. The designation on this transistor is 3214. Searching for this
number on NTE results in "NTEOBS-NLA" which as I understand it means that it
is obsolete and no longer available. Has anyone found a replacement for
this transistor?

In addition, someone several years ago said this was a "12v. standby
regulator transistor". Is there a Zener diode associated with this
transistor and if so, can anyone tell me the designation on the circuit
board. As you can tell by this point, I don't have the service information
on this set (as yet) and am hoping to get by without it.

Thanks for your time.
Dan

If the video fades, resolder the CRT heater pins on the neck board, it's
almost certainly something in that circuit.

 

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[John Robertson]

John Bachman wrote:

On Tue, 20 May 2008 03:58:04 GMT, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com
wrote:

John Bachman wrote:
I am in the market for a quality tube tester. Can someone give me the
rundown on the Hickoks? 600, 600A, 605, 6000? What are the ins and
outs of these?

TIA

John
Hi John,

Any tube tester that is a Mutual Conductance style will be just fine for
you. There are a number available on eBay, currently that are just as
good as a Hickock. I have a Jackson MC style that we've been using to
test our jukebox and old TV tubes in our shop for twenty years now...and
it works very well.

John :-#)#
Hi John,

Thanks. I meant to post this over on rec.antiques.radio+phono as I
will use it for antique radio tubes. That is why I am interested in
an old tester, for setting data and sockets.

John

Most Mutual Conductance tube testers will have a "Seldom Used Tubes"
list. This goes back to 201As, 80s, 47s, etc, and a few other earlier
tubes...I have a chart for my unit - should scan the sucker and post it
somewhere...TTL?

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

 

[Meat Plow]

On Wed, 21 May 2008 15:00:57 +0200, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

Hi,

Because all else failed, I want to go to the extreme in blowing out the
cathode-G1 short, from which my Eizo T766 19" CRT suffers. After the capacitor
discharge, the short has gone from 1K ohm, to 0.0 Ohm, and I can make the
internal wiring of the tube red hot by running 3A of current through it...

The repair FAQ mentions using a Tesla coil. The nearest thing to a Tesla coil I
used, was the 750V G2 of another (scrap) monitor, but that can only be
sustained for a fraction of a second before the monitor shuts off; nowhere
near the 10 seconds the repair FAQ states.

My question is this: can I use the anode and ground wire of another monitor to
act as my Tesla coil? How do I prevent breakdown of air and/or vacuum around
the CRT pins and such (I don't want arcing in the wrong place). And, very
importantly, can the flyback sustain such an arc? I've seen videos on the
internet in which they use the anode of a monitor to create a sustainable arc
between anode and probably ground, but I don't know if it needs to be modified
for that (because an arc is basically a short).

I am aware of the dangers BTW; when I do this, I will take proper safety
measures.

What about using a stun-gun or taser?

 

[UCLAN]

(1) I have a paralyzed vocal cord and cannot communicate well over the phone.
(2) I do not have the VCR in question, but was inquiring because a distant
relative wanted to "borrow" some of my SVHS recordings.

I thought the question was pretty clear. I don't want/need the service
manuals, I just wanted to know if it had SQPB. But thanks for your interest.

dBc wrote:

Greetings..

Have you considered giving Sony Service a call and asking? In
addition, simply getting a hold the service manual through Sony
Service. These are possible solutions.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor


"UCLAN" <nomail@thanks.org> wrote in message
news:OFOXj.44607$Fc1.32653@newsfe07.phx...
| Does anyone here know if the Sony SLV-P30HF VCR has SQPB (SVHS Quasi
| playback) circuitry? Thanks.

 

[Matthew Karam]

On May 22, 5:53 am, Sam Goldwasser <s...@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote:

mka...@gmail.com writes:
We just got this retired WA20 wavemeter donated to our lab from Los
Alamos.
I haven't cracked the case open yet but when I plug it in I hear a
revving noise which I'm guessing is a bad belt.
Considering the cost of these machines as well as their sensitivity I
was hoping to find somebody with a tech manual I can go over before I
start this project.

Open the bottom. Most likely, you'll find the belt stretched out and
sitting on the bottom cover. Replace it with anything that fits and
you'll be good to go. An elastic band will work well enough to test it.

EXFO, the company that acquired Burleigh doesn't have any
documentation on their site available. I'm going to phone them but I'm
guessing I'll come up empty handed... this has been discontinued for
too long I guess.

So... before I bite the bullet and open this up I wanted to gather as
much info as I could.... has anybody here ever repaired the belt in
these things? Any tips? Alternatively, does anybody have or have
access to a tech manual?

http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/Lasers/burleigh/WA-10_20.pdf

It's a wonderful machine. I just wish it was about 1/10th the size!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Thanks Sam,

Opened it up and, just as your suggested, the belt was lying there.
The noise is caused by the motor running without tension.
Next problem: somebody got pump oil all over the vacuum chamber... but
I know how to correct that.

Cheers,
-Matthew

 

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[Andy Cuffe]

On Sat, 24 May 2008 13:08:34 +0200, NoSp <none@none.none> wrote:

Does the LCD itself come in one piece, or can it fall apart into several
different "sheets" if you mess with it?

In any case I took the utmost care with the ribbon cables, so I think it
should be OK.

The manufacturers sure make it hard for people to replace CCFLs -I'm
sure they could design it much better if they wanted, but they probably
just want to sell new LCDs instead. Talk about unnecessary environmental
waste and production.

The LCD is all glued together, so there's no danger apart from
cracking it, or pulling off the ribbon cables.


Andy Cuffe

acuffe@gmail.com

 

[Lynn & Allison]

On May 19, 7:08 pm, SuryaDi...@gmail.com wrote:

Hello fellow inquisitive beings,

I'm a complete newbie to car electronics and was wondering if there is
anyway you could use laptop/pda to control your car audio. Mainly
though, I'm interested in ideas in how to control the actual FM radio/
cd player using the laptop/pda . I DON'T want to play music from my
laptop using the car speakers. Rather I want to control the car audio
using my laptop. Thank you very much for any input or direction that
anyone could provide.

Cheers.

The only thing I can think of is you can purchase a new Ford instead
and ask them to install Microsoft Sync (a costly option of course) and
you can use your voice.


Another thing: this post has nothing to do with electronics repair
please direct your post to a more appropriate newsgroup.

 

[clifto]

Dan wrote:

Very carefully drill a very tiny hole in the metal case. Be careful
not to go thru the hole into the gears. THen force some 3-1 oil

Please don't encourage people to use 3-in-1 varnish^W oil in anything more
delicate than a rusty chain saw. Where decent fine oil is needed in small
mechanisms, Singer sewing machine oil is good. Recommended to me in service
training by a major service organization in the late sixties and never
caused a problem since.

--
Black candidate endorsed by former Exalted Cyclops and Grand Kleagle of the
KKK! Film not at 11 or any other time... you're not supposed to know this.

 

[Nicole Bischoff]

<dannydee@nospammm.com> wrote in message
news:vhmf34l6nrq8jj4akttnsrsm1g9kbq08u9@4ax.com...

Believe it or not, about 30 years ago I worked in a car stereo
installation shop as well as a CB radio installer. Back then, we had
to manually connect each wire.

Times sure have changed, but I'm not sure if this is for the good.
I just bought a factory car radio from a garage sale. It has a built
in radio, tape player, amplifier, equalizer and clock. The sellers
said they bought the car new, and had a CD player installed a few
months later. I can see the radio is nearly new. I did not get the
year or model of chrysler from them.

Why don't you learn a lesson from them and get with the times, creepshit.

The problem is that these newer radios all have plugins, which are
part of the vehicle. It might be easy to plug them into the proper
vehicle, but not any other vehicle.

I saw on the web that there are adaptors, but how do I know what to
get? Here's what I got. It's from a newer chrysler or unknown model
and year. (Probably the 90's because after that they pretty much
abandoned tape pleyers in favor of CDs).
I want to put it in a 1990 Ford F150 pickup, because the current radio
and clock are dead. I'm not worried about physical mounting, I'll
make it fit. But how to wire it ?????

You can't make it fit fucktard, the Chrysler radio is larger than the Ford

radio.

There are 2 plugs on the rear. Both have SIX pins. One plug is +12V,
GND, Clock, Lights, and ? something else. (It's out in the garage and
I dont feel like going out there). The other plug has all speaker
wires for FOUR speakers (I will only need Two speakers in a pickup).
Each plug pin is labelled.

I could probably solder a wire to each pin and hand wire it into the
truck, and that is likely what I may have to do. But my reason for
posting this is to find out if anyone has any suggestions of an easier
way to do this. I dont want to spend much for this project, but if
they make a direct plug from Chrysler to Ford, and it's not too
costly, that would make the job easier.

From what I can see, I need +12, GND, Clock, and Lights on plug #1
and Left Spkr. Right Spkr, and one speaker common (gnd).
That's 7 out of 12 wires.

No, what you need to do is learn to use Google.
\

Any suggestions, please ???

Thanks

yeah, repost this to alt.car.audio and leave this repair newsgroup open to
repair issues dickhead.

** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

 

[Norm De Plume]

n...@o.ne wrote:

I suspect the red-black wires transport 12V supply, and the yellow one 5V (?).

Opposite. Red 5V, yellow 12V, black ground.

 

[b]

On 25 mayo, 13:45, Brasto <bram.st...@gmail.com> wrote:

This DENON has a separate Powersupply board which is totally
inoperative. Yes it does charge the Big Reservoir ELCO upto 350VDC but
no further SMPS action noted,
I replaced as a shotgun approach the Q1 FET and the Optocoupler
SFH617.
Not having its schematic I have been unable to identify the FET
driving components.......
Is Mark still out there fighting the SPAM allowing me to get some
light on the most likely cause of failure?
TY
Brasto

look for a small value cap in the SMPS primary or near its IC. often
these are something like 1uF or 4.7UF and go bad preventing the psu
starting.

 

[Major Debacle]

Silver Surfer wrote:

GE has this bulb in their catalog. Is it like the one in your fixture?
Available at TopBulb on the WWW.

SPECIAL APPLICATION LAMPS
COVRGUARDŽ SHATTER RESISTANT
T12 INSTANT START LAMPS
T12 Single Pin (Fa8) 20 Watts, 24" Nominal Length, 47342 Order Code,
F24T12/CW/CVG

Not the one. At most, this tube is a T6, which would be 3/4 inch
diameter. A T12 would be 1 1/2 inch diameter.

Same style, though... single pin, instant start

"Major Debacle" <Major_Debacle@the_Pentagon.mil> wrote in message
news:RlG_j.501$89.163@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com...
Hi,

I need an FSL-520-D Japanese style fluorescent lamp. It is unlike an
American style lamp in that it only has one electrode at each end. An
American style lamp flickers and overheats when plugged into this Japanese
style fixture. Does anyone know where I might be able to procure these
FSL-520-D Japanese style fluorescent lamps?

The AC voltage across this Japanese fluorescent fixture when plugged into
a 110-120 American socket is about 600 volts measured with a standard
American multimeter. Just for my own edification, does anyone know how
this kind of fixture differs in its operation from an American style
fluorescent fixture?