Fixing Heathkit Oscilloscope

David Eather wrote:
On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:31:40 +1000, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:


"David Eather"


If you keep calling people names, i will tell them WHY you think
'autistic' is the worst possible insult.


** For the umpteenth time, fuckhead - is not being used as an insult
!!!!

The REASON Terrell continually makes ridiculous reading errors like
this
one IS because he IS autistic !!!!

It is one of the classic symptoms of autism to interpret other people's
words absurdly LITERALLY.

It relates to an absence of having a working " theory of thought " when
reading or listening to people's words.

FFS pal - YOU have the SAME problem.

And it is genetic.

Get over it.


.... Phil







" ** For the umpteenth time..is not being used as an insult "

Show me ONE other time! You have NEVER said that it is not an insult. In
fact your favorite variation is to use it as "you vile autistic pig". Are
you trying to say you are so out of it that you really think a four legged
pig with trotters can type on a keyboard and you are just providing an
anthropologically accurate description? And the "vile"?

You are rather badly caught out in a story of your own making. Do you
really think anyone will believe your fantasy edit of your *years* of bad
behavior?

And in this thread you did say "you need a scope to fix a scope" which
does because of the absoluteness of the statement also means you can't
fix a scope without one - and that is incorrect.

Someone corrected you - which is not a big deal, just a nit-pick as
everyone knew your statement was 90%+ correct - most of the time you do
need a scope to fix a scope - but you went, typically for you,
over-the-top-life-or-death-rant-rave-insult-and-spit-venom.

It's not even a big deal except you made it so.

Read that bit again. YOU made it a big deal. No one else would have cared
at all, they would have seen the comment correcting you as a nit-pick, a
very small thing, and your comment as 90%+

You called me autistic so ...

(I sniped what I was going to say and put in what follows instead. Let me
know if you want me to put the original back and explain what is going on
to anyone who has not managed to connect the dots)

If I had autism I could do this: (I am not making any sort of
recommendation - there are easier ways to achieve the same thing)

I could announce the fact plain and simple, and the response would be
exactly this:

From one or maybe two posters who already have rather severe personality
disorders a post or two of ridicule until they got board. Who in the
entire news group gives a shit about what they think anyway?

And...

and nothing.

Despite what you might think, in a technical newsgroup with the level of
interpersonal relationship that requires, autism makes no difference. All
I have to do to be perfectly productive is remember not to rail when
people don't use or read with the same precision I normally do and on the
rare occasion that I am not 100% correct and someone might nit-pick me, NO
ONE EVEN *BOTHERS* to judge me unless I make an issue of it.

Phil craves attention. It doesn't matter what kind of attention, but
he refuses to be ignored.
 
On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:25:47 -0800 (PST), Ivan Vegvary
<ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote:

The 1V2 tube does not light. Tube has no continuity between
pins 4 and 5 (with tube removed).
Yeah, there should be continuity between 4 and 5. The heater
voltage is supposed to be 0.625VAC with current at 0.3A, from
what I see at the following link:

http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_1v2.html

This suggests, hot, that the resistance is about 2.1 ohms.
But according to this Wiki:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_tube

the operating temperature of oxide-coated tungsten filaments
was about 700 C. The following chart on tungsten:

http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2004/DeannaStewart.shtml

gives a resistivity of about 24.93 at 1000 K and about 5.65
at 300 K. So about a factor of 4.4. From that, I'd expect to
see slightly less than 1/2 Ohm, or so.

Voltage at either pin 4 or 5 reads circa 1065V to ground.
However, I can discern no voltage between pins 4 and 5.
Is this OK? Do I have a bad transformer? Should I go
ahead and order a new tube?
The voltage difference should be, as cited above, about
0.625VAC. Reading the difference, though, may be difficult if
you are measuring each lead individually referenced to
ground. (600 ppm isn't an easy determination.) You may need
to measure across the two socket pins.

The tube appears bad. But I'd want to make sure, before
plugging in a new one, that the filament voltage appears
about right, too.

You could avoid worrying about measuring AC voltage at high
potential by instead testing the filament voltage by placing
a resistor across the two pins and powering up, feeling for
some heating effect. 2.2 Ohms there would be close to the
nominal value and would create less than 1/4 watt of
dissipation. With a 1/2 watt resistor, it should be enough to
feel and not enough to be worrisome.

Jon
 
On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:53:43 -0800, Jon Kirwan
<jonk@infinitefactors.org> wrote:

snip
You could avoid worrying about measuring AC voltage at high
potential by instead testing the filament voltage by placing
a resistor across the two pins and powering up, feeling for
some heating effect. 2.2 Ohms there would be close to the
nominal value and would create less than 1/4 watt of
dissipation. With a 1/2 watt resistor, it should be enough to
feel and not enough to be worrisome.
I should have added: But only feel the resistor AFTER turning
the system off and safely removing the resistor, beforehand.
Please do NOT touch it while operating the system.

Jon
 
On Monday, November 19, 2012 8:05:37 PM UTC-8, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Picked up the above for $ 10. Fuse was blown. Don't have a 125V 1A fuse but used 125V 1/2 amp fuse instead. Front indicator light went on and 30 seconds later the 1/2 amp fuse blew. Will pic up a 1 amp fuse. If it keeps blowing, where would be a good place - method - to start diagnosis? I did get a manual and schematic with the scope.



I realize that I could probably buy an equivalent "working" scope for about $ 50, but I would like to get this one going. Tools available are VOM, VTVM and one hand safely in the pocket.



Thanks, Ivan Vegvary
 
On Tuesday, November 20, 2012 11:22:25 AM UTC-8, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 19 Nov 2012 20:05:37 -0800, Ivan Vegvary wrote:



Picked up the above for $ 10. Fuse was blown. Don't have a 125V 1A

fuse but used 125V 1/2 amp fuse instead. Front indicator light went on

and 30 seconds later the 1/2 amp fuse blew. Will pic up a 1 amp fuse.

If it keeps blowing, where would be a good place - method - to start

diagnosis? I did get a manual and schematic with the scope.



I realize that I could probably buy an equivalent "working" scope for

about $ 50, but I would like to get this one going. Tools available are

VOM, VTVM and one hand safely in the pocket.



Thanks, Ivan Vegvary



30 seconds sounds about right for a tube to heat up and go over current.



1/2A may not be enough fuse, so blowing the fuse may just be a diagnostic

that the fuse is doing its job -- get the right fuse to start with.



With Heathkits, you always need to ask the question "did it ever work?".

Then you need to ask "did it ever work _right_?". Then "was it

modified?". Then, finally, open it up and visually inspect everything

not just for the obvious like burnt components or wires, but for the less-

obvious assembly errors like cold solder joints, wires broken because of

improper assembly, wires put in the wrong places*, etc.



Inspect with your eyes _and_ your nose -- if you get a whiff of "that

expensive smell" then track down what's burnt. When you turn it on (out

of the case, of course), go over it with your nose again -- your nose not

only smells, but it's a pretty good heat sensor, sometimes you can

"smell" warm air coming from a too-hot component before it actually

starts smelling burnt.



If it still blows the same way with a 1A fuse then start checking tubes

for proper bias and shorts and stuff. Then check all of the power supply

voltages to make sure they're correct.



If it's solid state other than the CRT this'll be easy. I would think

that if the CRT is pulling too much current that you'd have seen a honkin'

bright spot, but I suppose that if the biases were really all shot to

hell then you may have just lit up the whole screen and not noticed it --

power it up in a dark room the next time and see.



And tell us what model it is, and other essential things like how many

tubes!



* I'm partially color blind in green and red, so my Heathkit oscilloscope

got assembled with a green wire swapped for a gray wire. One was a 160V

bias, the other was a 5V signal. I made expensive smells with that one.

But then, I fixed it, too.



--

My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.

My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.

Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?



Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software

http://www.wescottdesign.com
Heathkit Model 10-18 Oscilloscope
Placed 2 amp fuse (only one available) and does not blow. Here is a link to the power supply portion of the schematic.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BGrQnuq064g/UK6BOO5ilgI/AAAAAAAAAMA/b0oSZQ5lFZQ/s720/CCF11212012_0000.jpg

The 1V2 tube does not light. Tube has no continuity between pins 4 and 5 (with tube removed). Voltage at either pin 4 or 5 reads circa 1065V to ground. However, I can discern no voltage between pins 4 and 5. Is this OK? Do I have a bad transformer? Should I go ahead and order a new tube?

Thanks, Ivan Vegvary
 
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2012 11:22:25 AM UTC-8, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 19 Nov 2012 20:05:37 -0800, Ivan Vegvary wrote:



Picked up the above for $ 10. Fuse was blown. Don't have a 125V 1A

fuse but used 125V 1/2 amp fuse instead. Front indicator light went on

and 30 seconds later the 1/2 amp fuse blew. Will pic up a 1 amp fuse.

If it keeps blowing, where would be a good place - method - to start

diagnosis? I did get a manual and schematic with the scope.



I realize that I could probably buy an equivalent "working" scope for

about $ 50, but I would like to get this one going. Tools available are

VOM, VTVM and one hand safely in the pocket.



Thanks, Ivan Vegvary



30 seconds sounds about right for a tube to heat up and go over current.



1/2A may not be enough fuse, so blowing the fuse may just be a diagnostic

that the fuse is doing its job -- get the right fuse to start with.



With Heathkits, you always need to ask the question "did it ever work?".

Then you need to ask "did it ever work _right_?". Then "was it

modified?". Then, finally, open it up and visually inspect everything

not just for the obvious like burnt components or wires, but for the less-

obvious assembly errors like cold solder joints, wires broken because of

improper assembly, wires put in the wrong places*, etc.



Inspect with your eyes _and_ your nose -- if you get a whiff of "that

expensive smell" then track down what's burnt. When you turn it on (out

of the case, of course), go over it with your nose again -- your nose not

only smells, but it's a pretty good heat sensor, sometimes you can

"smell" warm air coming from a too-hot component before it actually

starts smelling burnt.



If it still blows the same way with a 1A fuse then start checking tubes

for proper bias and shorts and stuff. Then check all of the power supply

voltages to make sure they're correct.



If it's solid state other than the CRT this'll be easy. I would think

that if the CRT is pulling too much current that you'd have seen a honkin'

bright spot, but I suppose that if the biases were really all shot to

hell then you may have just lit up the whole screen and not noticed it --

power it up in a dark room the next time and see.



And tell us what model it is, and other essential things like how many

tubes!



* I'm partially color blind in green and red, so my Heathkit oscilloscope

got assembled with a green wire swapped for a gray wire. One was a 160V

bias, the other was a 5V signal. I made expensive smells with that one.

But then, I fixed it, too.



--

My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.

My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.

Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?



Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software

http://www.wescottdesign.com

Heathkit Model 10-18 Oscilloscope
Placed 2 amp fuse (only one available) and does not blow. Here is a link to the power supply portion of the schematic.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-BGrQnuq064g/UK6BOO5ilgI/AAAAAAAAAMA/b0oSZQ5lFZQ/s720/CCF11212012_0000.jpg

The 1V2 tube does not light. Tube has no continuity between pins 4 and 5 (with tube removed). Voltage at either pin 4 or 5 reads circa 1065V to ground. However, I can discern no voltage between pins 4 and 5. Is this OK? Do I have a bad transformer? Should I go ahead and order a new tube?

The model is 'IO'-18 (EYE-OH), not 'Ten'-18. I may have a junker
out in the garage that got wet. It still has all the tubes, but the
case is missing. I would have to dig it out to find the model number.
I also have three NOS Westinghouse 1V2 in storage.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/Eptub.html


I don't remeber ever seeing a 1V2 light up. They were designed for
use as Focus Rectifiers in TV sets. The other common focus rectifier
was the 2AV@, that diud emit a little light in a dark room. The set was
drawing too much current if you could see it under normal light. Your
schematic shows that the filament voltage is .625 volts YO can't expect
to read that difference if the meter is referenced to ground.
 
On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 04:44:06 +1000, Michael A. Terrell
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

David Eather wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:31:40 +1000, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au
wrote:


"David Eather"


If you keep calling people names, i will tell them WHY you think
'autistic' is the worst possible insult.


** For the umpteenth time, fuckhead - is not being used as an insult
!!!!

The REASON Terrell continually makes ridiculous reading errors like
this
one IS because he IS autistic !!!!

It is one of the classic symptoms of autism to interpret other
people's
words absurdly LITERALLY.

It relates to an absence of having a working " theory of thought "
when
reading or listening to people's words.

FFS pal - YOU have the SAME problem.

And it is genetic.

Get over it.


.... Phil







" ** For the umpteenth time..is not being used as an insult "

Show me ONE other time! You have NEVER said that it is not an insult. In
fact your favorite variation is to use it as "you vile autistic pig".
Are
you trying to say you are so out of it that you really think a four
legged
pig with trotters can type on a keyboard and you are just providing an
anthropologically accurate description? And the "vile"?

You are rather badly caught out in a story of your own making. Do you
really think anyone will believe your fantasy edit of your *years* of
bad
behavior?

And in this thread you did say "you need a scope to fix a scope" which
does because of the absoluteness of the statement also means you can't
fix a scope without one - and that is incorrect.

Someone corrected you - which is not a big deal, just a nit-pick as
everyone knew your statement was 90%+ correct - most of the time you do
need a scope to fix a scope - but you went, typically for you,
over-the-top-life-or-death-rant-rave-insult-and-spit-venom.

It's not even a big deal except you made it so.

Read that bit again. YOU made it a big deal. No one else would have
cared
at all, they would have seen the comment correcting you as a nit-pick, a
very small thing, and your comment as 90%+

You called me autistic so ...

(I sniped what I was going to say and put in what follows instead. Let
me
know if you want me to put the original back and explain what is going
on
to anyone who has not managed to connect the dots)

If I had autism I could do this: (I am not making any sort of
recommendation - there are easier ways to achieve the same thing)

I could announce the fact plain and simple, and the response would be
exactly this:

From one or maybe two posters who already have rather severe
personality
disorders a post or two of ridicule until they got board. Who in the
entire news group gives a shit about what they think anyway?

And...

and nothing.

Despite what you might think, in a technical newsgroup with the level of
interpersonal relationship that requires, autism makes no difference.
All
I have to do to be perfectly productive is remember not to rail when
people don't use or read with the same precision I normally do and on
the
rare occasion that I am not 100% correct and someone might nit-pick me,
NO
ONE EVEN *BOTHERS* to judge me unless I make an issue of it.


Phil craves attention. It doesn't matter what kind of attention, but
he refuses to be ignored.
With respect I have to disagree.
 
On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 08:30:19 +1000, David Eather <eather@tpg.com.au> wrote:

On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 04:44:06 +1000, Michael A. Terrell
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


David Eather wrote:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 10:31:40 +1000, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au
wrote:


"David Eather"


If you keep calling people names, i will tell them WHY you think
'autistic' is the worst possible insult.


** For the umpteenth time, fuckhead - is not being used as an
insult
!!!!

The REASON Terrell continually makes ridiculous reading errors
like
this
one IS because he IS autistic !!!!

It is one of the classic symptoms of autism to interpret other
people's
words absurdly LITERALLY.

It relates to an absence of having a working " theory of thought "
when
reading or listening to people's words.

FFS pal - YOU have the SAME problem.

And it is genetic.

Get over it.


.... Phil







" ** For the umpteenth time..is not being used as an insult "

Show me ONE other time! You have NEVER said that it is not an insult.
In
fact your favorite variation is to use it as "you vile autistic pig".
Are
you trying to say you are so out of it that you really think a four
legged
pig with trotters can type on a keyboard and you are just providing an
anthropologically accurate description? And the "vile"?

You are rather badly caught out in a story of your own making. Do you
really think anyone will believe your fantasy edit of your *years* of
bad
behavior?

And in this thread you did say "you need a scope to fix a scope" which
does because of the absoluteness of the statement also means you can't
fix a scope without one - and that is incorrect.

Someone corrected you - which is not a big deal, just a nit-pick as
everyone knew your statement was 90%+ correct - most of the time you do
need a scope to fix a scope - but you went, typically for you,
over-the-top-life-or-death-rant-rave-insult-and-spit-venom.

It's not even a big deal except you made it so.

Read that bit again. YOU made it a big deal. No one else would have
cared
at all, they would have seen the comment correcting you as a nit-pick,
a
very small thing, and your comment as 90%+

You called me autistic so ...

(I sniped what I was going to say and put in what follows instead. Let
me
know if you want me to put the original back and explain what is going
on
to anyone who has not managed to connect the dots)

If I had autism I could do this: (I am not making any sort of
recommendation - there are easier ways to achieve the same thing)

I could announce the fact plain and simple, and the response would be
exactly this:

From one or maybe two posters who already have rather severe
personality
disorders a post or two of ridicule until they got board. Who in the
entire news group gives a shit about what they think anyway?

And...

and nothing.

Despite what you might think, in a technical newsgroup with the level
of
interpersonal relationship that requires, autism makes no difference.
All
I have to do to be perfectly productive is remember not to rail when
people don't use or read with the same precision I normally do and on
the
rare occasion that I am not 100% correct and someone might nit-pick
me, NO
ONE EVEN *BOTHERS* to judge me unless I make an issue of it.


Phil craves attention. It doesn't matter what kind of attention, but
he refuses to be ignored.

With respect I have to disagree.
And I should have added

When Phil makes the effort to moderate his output, then he is one of the
news groups best sources of information.
 
Jon Kirwan <jonk@infinitefactors.org> wrote in
news:s84ta8h9g22cfk01ju9n533aagnrkt95tn@4ax.com:

On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 12:53:43 -0800, Jon Kirwan
jonk@infinitefactors.org> wrote:

snip
You could avoid worrying about measuring AC voltage at high
potential by instead testing the filament voltage by placing
a resistor across the two pins and powering up, feeling for
some heating effect. 2.2 Ohms there would be close to the
nominal value and would create less than 1/4 watt of
dissipation. With a 1/2 watt resistor, it should be enough to
feel and not enough to be worrisome.

I should have added: But only feel the resistor AFTER turning
the system off and safely removing the resistor, beforehand.
Please do NOT touch it while operating the system.
Patch in a 1.5V maglite bulb - it should glow noticibly on 0.625 Vrms and
you can get a rough check of the voltage by visual comparison with an
identical bulb powered from an adjustable low voltage DC supply.

OTOH a floating measurement with a good quality multimeter and leads isn't
really a problem. Attach lead clips with power off of course.

If the meter is rated less than Cat III 1500V, I would advise putting it on
an insulator - e.g. a sheet of at least 4mm glass or clear plastic and
making sure the multimeter lead insulation does not touch any other lead,
component, metal or conductive object. Use nylon cable ties to dress the
leads if you have to and do NOT touch the meter or leads with power on FOR
ANY REASON.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL
 
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:
The model is 'IO'-18 (EYE-OH), not 'Ten'-18. I may have a junker
out in the garage that got wet. It still has all the tubes, but the
case is missing. I would have to dig it out to find the model number.
I also have three NOS Westinghouse 1V2 in storage.

OK. It is an IO-18 that I have sitting in the garage, if you need any
parts.
 
On Saturday, November 24, 2012 7:00:38 PM UTC-8, Michael Terrell wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:



The model is 'IO'-18 (EYE-OH), not 'Ten'-18. I may have a junker

out in the garage that got wet. It still has all the tubes, but the

case is missing. I would have to dig it out to find the model number.

I also have three NOS Westinghouse 1V2 in storage.





OK. It is an IO-18 that I have sitting in the garage, if you need any

parts.
Thanks Michael,
Very kind of you to go through the trouble. As you will see in a new post, I did get the scope working.
Thanks again, Ivan Vegvary
 

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