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Phil Hobbs
Guest
On 7/17/19 8:21 PM, George Herold wrote:
For CuClad protos that have to look nice, I spray both the board and box
with clear acrylic before building it. Acrylic is easy to solder
through, and stays nice looking for a long time.
I have a box fan in the window next to me while doing it, though!
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
On Friday, July 12, 2019 at 9:23:15 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 7/12/19 7:55 PM, John Larkin wrote:
I was wondering how an MC10EP08 (4 GHz XOR gate) behaves with a slow
input, specifically sine waves from 1 MHz up until it quits. Old 10KH
type ECL gates made decent analog amplifiers, but the EP parts are
much faster and probably have more voltage gain, so I don't know what
they might do.
So I built this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dbuf1ixgfs8soc8/Z466_WB.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9hmq0u1jv03oqgk/Z466_1.JPG?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/opnxfnk79o5lk1s/Z466_2.JPG?raw=1
Yes, it is barely possible to scrunch two SMA cables onto the output
connectors. Barely.
Now I have to pull rank on a junior staff member and swipe the big ole
Wayne Kerr RF signal generator and test it.
I could front this with an Analog Devices fast comparator, which has
hysteresis and differential ECL or CML outputs, but they are expensive
and need more power supplies.
I really need another RF signal generator.
A PTS1000 is super good medicine.
Your protos are so Hollywood.
Yeah but imagine showing your proto made out of
low end copper clad to the same customer.
It's gold baby! :^)
John L, If you make some sort of micro strip
out of copper clad and copper clad with gold on top,
can you tell the difference? I guess I'm thinking
TDR-wise. (Of which I know almost nothing... if you made
a video/ white broad thing about TDR I would watch it,
and recommend it to my all my buds on SED. :^)
George H.
For CuClad protos that have to look nice, I spray both the board and box
with clear acrylic before building it. Acrylic is easy to solder
through, and stays nice looking for a long time.
I have a box fan in the window next to me while doing it, though!
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com