F-plug need to be fully tightened?

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 11:54:39 GMT, Palindrome <me9@privacy.net> wrote:

Blarp wrote:
On Mon, 15 Sep 2008 12:27:32 +0100, Peto <peto@invalid.com> wrote:

I'm in the UK. I have the usual F-series connector on the coax
entering my cable modem.

http://www.newtechindustries.com/newtech/catalog/images/200-045.jpg

--------

I need to remove the connector every now and then so I lubed the
threads with a smear of vaseline.

At these RF frequencies (about 340 MHz) do I need to have true
electrical contact between the plug and socket or is close proximity
enough?

Would loose "hand tight" be sufficent?

In the lab I used to check various sat-tv receivers. On the end of the
sat feed we had an F connector with a special connector screwed in -
it was spring loaded with a solid smooth centerpin. It could be
pushed on and off without actually using the threads.

No idea what it was called, but it was a stock item at the time.


Erm, I think that you will find that they are called "push on F plug
adaptors". .

I mentioned them earlier in the thread.

Yes, we always referred to them as "Push Ons" as well.

"Quick release" is incorrect as there is no "release" mechanism.

Slip-on just sounds too much like a weak connection.

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 09:41:43 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

There is no reason to keep disconnecting the cable modem.

Mine is constantly being hacked at by the kook group retards. When I am
not using it, I turn it off. Most have a switch... nearly all have a
dongle connection which can easily be pulled. No power, no bits moving.

The guy can't be that goddamned paranoid.

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On 16 Sep 2008 14:22:55 GMT, tinnews@isbd.co.uk wrote:

So what, this is a UK group!

Any more stupid claims?

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 10:56:05 -0400, "Tim Perry"
<timperry@nospammeadelphia.net> wrote:

Seeing your posts here in the past, I know that is not true, therefore,
you must have latched on to some lame urban myth. What you should have
relied on is your common sense.


It seem I have made an error. I failed to notice this crosposted.


Nope. Lube on fittings is good, as long as one doesn't use axle

grease. The word "lube" is ambiguous here, at best.

 

[Palindrome]

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:

On 16 Sep 2008 14:22:55 GMT, tinnews@isbd.co.uk wrote:

So what, this is a UK group!


Any more stupid claims?

Look at the list of groups in the header of the message he replied to.

That's the problem with posts going to several groups. The pp may only
be reading a UK group and hence, as far as he, and that group, is
concerned - be quite correct.

--
Sue

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 23:42:10 +0100, Palindrome <me9@privacy.net> wrote:

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:
On 16 Sep 2008 14:22:55 GMT, tinnews@isbd.co.uk wrote:

So what, this is a UK group!


Any more stupid claims?

Look at the list of groups in the header of the message he replied to.

Apparently, it is HE that did not perform said action. I did, I KNOW
that the group list is plural. He apparently does not, therefore, YES,
it was a stupid remark on his part, and a good jab on mine.

That's the problem with posts going to several groups. The pp may only
be reading a UK group and hence, as far as he, and that group, is
concerned - be quite correct.

NOPE... ANY Usenet post carries ALL the groups it was posted too, so
if he was able to read the post, he was able to see the group list it was
posted to. If that is not the case, then you guys need to re-think what
you call news client software over there, and no, goddamned idiots
reading the NEWS over a web interface do NOT get to make ANY remarks
about groups, since they are like a damned horse with blinders on to
start with.

 

[Palindrome]

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 23:42:10 +0100, Palindrome <me9@privacy.net> wrote:

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:
On 16 Sep 2008 14:22:55 GMT, tinnews@isbd.co.uk wrote:

So what, this is a UK group!

Any more stupid claims?
Look at the list of groups in the header of the message he replied to.

Apparently, it is HE that did not perform said action. I did, I KNOW
that the group list is plural. He apparently does not, therefore, YES,
it was a stupid remark on his part, and a good jab on mine.

IIRC, he is using TIN, so I would agree that he probably does have the
knowledge and expertise to have known better

That's the problem with posts going to several groups. The pp may only
be reading a UK group and hence, as far as he, and that group, is
concerned - be quite correct.

NOPE... ANY Usenet post carries ALL the groups it was posted too, so
if he was able to read the post, he was able to see the group list it was
posted to.

He, presumably he didn't look. A very common error to make, although,
generally, it does tend to be you guys that side of the pond that assume
every post in a.e.electrical relates to that side..

If that is not the case, then you guys need to re-think what
you call news client software over there, and no, goddamned idiots
reading the NEWS over a web interface do NOT get to make ANY remarks
about groups, since they are like a damned horse with blinders on to
start with.

I haven't a clue about the origins of TIN, but suspect that anyone using
it has much the same opinion.

--
Sue

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 09:41:43 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


There is no reason to keep disconnecting the cable modem.


Mine is constantly being hacked at by the kook group retards. When I am
not using it, I turn it off. Most have a switch... nearly all have a
dongle connection which can easily be pulled. No power, no bits moving.

The guy can't be that goddamned paranoid.

I have a firewall in my router to block them. The only time I unplug
the modem is when it locks up after months of heavy traffic. At times I
see it go into remote rest from the local headend when they are having
trouble with a block of adresses.


--
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your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Tim Perry wrote:

It seem I have made an error. I failed to notice this crosposted.


Nope. Lube on fittings is good, as long as one doesn't use axle
grease. The word "lube" is ambiguous here, at best.

Please post a link to your recomended product.

<http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.pdf>


Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.


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listed, or I will not see your messages.

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your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Peto wrote:

On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:

Tim Perry wrote:

Please post a link to your recomended product.


http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.


I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)

A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[The Natural Philosopher]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Peto wrote:
On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
Tim Perry wrote:
Please post a link to your recomended product.

http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.

I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)


A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Remember all its there to do is fill any airgaps to prevent moist air

getting in and starting corrosion. It takes almost no contact at all to
provide a good RF transmission: its when that contact is via a film of
oxide, that troubles start.

 

[krw]

In article <1221678275.25833.1@proxy00.news.clara.net>, a@b.c
says...

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Peto wrote:
On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
Tim Perry wrote:
Please post a link to your recomended product.

http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.

I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)


A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Remember all its there to do is fill any airgaps to prevent moist air
getting in and starting corrosion. It takes almost no contact at all to
provide a good RF transmission: its when that contact is via a film of
oxide, that troubles start.

It takes one complete thread to make the RF seal, which was MT's
point about torquing the nut down, somewhere back there.

--
Keith

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 20:04:34 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <a@b.c>
wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Peto wrote:
On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
Tim Perry wrote:
Please post a link to your recomended product.

http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.

I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)


A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Remember all its there to do is fill any airgaps to prevent moist air
getting in and starting corrosion. It takes almost no contact at all to
provide a good RF transmission: its when that contact is via a film of
oxide, that troubles start.

Yes, as such "films" are typically similar in electrical
characteristics to resistor mediums. Which means loss.

The other problem is that such "layers" between a true metal to metal
contact makes for a very noisy electron stream, as well as the losses
presented by the higher resistance.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Tim Perry wrote:

Michael, I'll see you tunerlube and raise you a Molykoat (s)
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/iam_news25.asp

The tunerlube was recommended by the manufacturers back in the '70s &
'80s. We only used it in areas with a lot of salt air that quickly
corroded the connectors. The line taps were shipped with plastic boots
with a thin film of it to seal the threads. When you have over 10,000
outdoor ports, you can't be taking the system down constantly to replace
damaged port connectors.

However in this application any oil, grease, or any other gunk will attract
dust on both the jack and the plug when they are apart. the resultant
sludge will necessitate cleaning both ends (then we can argue about the best
cleaning solution)

That is what shop rags were used for. Extra grease when a customer
was disconnected, and wipe it off when reconnected.

I am not on a mission or crusade or anything. I use cleaners, sealers, etc.
as needed and have for years. My favorite is Caig de-oxit.

Even outdoors for most instillations I find little use for chemicals on F
connectors. Usually tape and a Skotchcoat are sufficient for many years of
faithful service.

Try that on a busy highway that got salted every time there was much
snow, or anywhere close to any coastline on either ocean.

Large connectors the story is a bit different. The O-rings on conduit and
coax transmission line should be coated with the silicon paste, usually
supplied with new parts or replacement kits.

The .412", .500", .750" & 1.00" hardline connectors all had o-rings
to keep water out of the amplifier housings, splice blocks, power
inserters and tap housings, but not to protect the threads. Tunerlube
was MUCH easier to clean up than the gelled underground drop cable.

In any even I think we have beaten the subject to death.

My recommendation to the Op is get a 4" (100 mm) crescent wrench and place
it on your key ring. It will then be handy for all occasions. Snug the
connector down
and enjoy your high speed access.

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Tim Perry wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:9JudnZg0Ua1mLUzVnZ2dnUVZ_orinZ2d@earthlink.com...

Tim Perry wrote:

Michael, I'll see you tunerlube and raise you a Molykoat (s)
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/iam_news25.asp


The tunerlube was recommended by the manufacturers back in the '70s &
'80s. We only used it in areas with a lot of salt air that quickly
corroded the connectors. The line taps were shipped with plastic boots
with a thin film of it to seal the threads. When you have over 10,000
outdoor ports, you can't be taking the system down constantly to replace
damaged port connectors.


However in this application any oil, grease, or any other gunk will
attract
dust on both the jack and the plug when they are apart. the resultant
sludge will necessitate cleaning both ends (then we can argue about the
best
cleaning solution)


That is what shop rags were used for. Extra grease when a customer
was disconnected, and wipe it off when reconnected.


I am not on a mission or crusade or anything. I use cleaners, sealers,
etc.
as needed and have for years. My favorite is Caig de-oxit.

Even outdoors for most instillations I find little use for chemicals on
F
connectors. Usually tape and a Skotchcoat are sufficient for many years
of
faithful service.


Try that on a busy highway that got salted every time there was much
snow, or anywhere close to any coastline on either ocean.


My outdoor applications mostly involve satellite dishes. I have a couple
adjacent to the NY throughway. One uses RG 11. Installed for 5 years and no
hint of problems. Most problem I have are with the small offset dishes
where the weather dome points down, drain holes get plugged and it fills
with water.


Large connectors the story is a bit different. The O-rings on conduit
and
coax transmission line should be coated with the silicon paste, usually
supplied with new parts or replacement kits.


The .412", .500", .750" & 1.00" hardline connectors all had o-rings
to keep water out of the amplifier housings, splice blocks, power
inserters and tap housings, but not to protect the threads. Tunerlube
was MUCH easier to clean up than the gelled underground drop cable.

We used some large heliax on commercial 5 meter sat dishes that was
pressurized. I also worked with 195 kW UHF TV transmitter with large
rectangular waveguide from the diplexer to the antenna on a 1749' AAT
tower that was pressurized. We developed a slow leak that caused severe
sync compression. It turned out to be an 18" long crack in one of the
corner welds, above the 1400 foot level.

I use up to 3 1/8" coax with close to 30 kW passing through it.
the lines are pressurized to keep moisture out. The o-rings help keep air or
nitrogen in.
Bullets (connectors) are silver plated and are inserted into copper inner
conductors with no chemical additives. The outer conductor (EIA flange) is
connected with bolts. I do use Vaseline on these threads as it makes removal
in the future easier.

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[The Natural Philosopher]

krw wrote:

In article <1221678275.25833.1@proxy00.news.clara.net>, a@b.c
says...
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Peto wrote:
On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
Tim Perry wrote:
Please post a link to your recomended product.

http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.

I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)

A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Remember all its there to do is fill any airgaps to prevent moist air
getting in and starting corrosion. It takes almost no contact at all to
provide a good RF transmission: its when that contact is via a film of
oxide, that troubles start.

It takes one complete thread to make the RF seal, which was MT's
point about torquing the nut down, somewhere back there.

Agreed. In terms of leakage, anyway.

 

[The Natural Philosopher]

GoldIntermetallicEmbrittlement wrote:

On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 20:04:34 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <a@b.c
wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Peto wrote:
On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
Tim Perry wrote:
Please post a link to your recomended product.

http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.

I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)

A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Remember all its there to do is fill any airgaps to prevent moist air
getting in and starting corrosion. It takes almost no contact at all to
provide a good RF transmission: its when that contact is via a film of
oxide, that troubles start.


Yes, as such "films" are typically similar in electrical
characteristics to resistor mediums. Which means loss.

Its worse than that: silver oxide over brass makes a fairly decent
rectifier. You can add harmonics that weren't there.

In my particular hoibby - Radio controlled aircraft - it even has a name
- the rusty fence syndrome. Rusty fences do strange things to
shortwaves. You get all sorts of intermodulation effects with a rusty
fence: makes quite a good mixer.

The other problem is that such "layers" between a true metal to metal
contact makes for a very noisy electron stream, as well as the losses
presented by the higher resistance.

That's less releavant at RF..unless its wobbling in the breeze.

 

[The Natural Philosopher]

Tim Perry wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsNudnbwwk_cJcE3VnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@earthlink.com...
Peto wrote:
On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
Tim Perry wrote:
Please post a link to your recomended product.

http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.

I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)

A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Michael, I'll see you tunerlube and raise you a Molykoat (s)
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/iam_news25.asp

However in this application any oil, grease, or any other gunk will attract
dust on both the jack and the plug when they are apart. the resultant
sludge will necessitate cleaning both ends (then we can argue about the best
cleaning solution)

Thats why you use it only on seldomn aken apart couplings in adverse
environments.

Not inside on e.g. test gear.

I am not on a mission or crusade or anything. I use cleaners, sealers, etc.
as needed and have for years. My favorite is Caig de-oxit.

Even outdoors for most instillations I find little use for chemicals on F
connectors. Usually tape and a Skotchcoat are sufficient for many years of
faithful service.

Agreed.

Large connectors the story is a bit different. The O-rings on conduit and
coax transmission line should be coated with the silicon paste, usually
supplied with new parts or replacement kits.

In any even I think we have beaten the subject to death.

Agreed.

My recommendation to the Op is get a 4" (100 mm) crescent wrench and place
it on your key ring. It will then be handy for all occasions. Snug the
connector down
and enjoy your high speed access.


good idea.

>

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 21:01:47 -0400, "Tim Perry"
<timperry@nospammeadelphia.net> wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
newsNudnbwwk_cJcE3VnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@earthlink.com...

Peto wrote:

On Wed 17 Sep08 05:04, Michael A. Terrell wrote in
news:OLOdnXQKjK5CHE3VnZ2dnUVZ_umdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:

Tim Perry wrote:

Please post a link to your recomended product.


http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/SubCatPDF/lubricants%2048-49.
pdf> Part No. 10-2610 Tunerlub is what I've used since the '60s.


I'm the OP. Do you smear Tunerlube on the threads or do you dunk the
plug into it (so the threads and centre connector are both covered in
Tunerlube?)


A very thin film, applied with a Q-tip is all that is needed.


Michael, I'll see you tunerlube and raise you a Molykoat (s)
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/news/iam_news25.asp

However in this application any oil, grease, or any other gunk will attract
dust on both the jack and the plug when they are apart. the resultant
sludge will necessitate cleaning both ends (then we can argue about the best
cleaning solution)

I am not on a mission or crusade or anything. I use cleaners, sealers, etc.
as needed and have for years. My favorite is Caig de-oxit.

Even outdoors for most instillations I find little use for chemicals on F
connectors. Usually tape and a Skotchcoat are sufficient for many years of
faithful service.

Large connectors the story is a bit different. The O-rings on conduit and
coax transmission line should be coated with the silicon paste, usually
supplied with new parts or replacement kits.

In any even I think we have beaten the subject to death.

My recommendation to the Op is get a 4" (100 mm) crescent wrench and place
it on your key ring. It will then be handy for all occasions. Snug the
connector down
and enjoy your high speed access.


I am having trouble finding the General Electric product.

 

[GoldIntermetallicEmbrittl]

On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 09:51:40 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <a@b.c>
wrote:

Its worse than that: silver oxide over brass makes a fairly decent
rectifier. You can add harmonics that weren't there.

Yes...

Just so you know, however... PURE Silver oxide is the best conducting
compound on the planet. Note that I did not say "element".

Not the stuff that puts the patina on your plated surfaces... the
"pharmaceutical grade" media. :-]